Sunday, October 24, 2021

[VAULT] Black Mountain (Benton) (White Mountain National Forest)

Black Mountain (Benton) (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 4.4 miles
Elevation: 1,642 feet
Time: unknown.
Hiking Challenges: 52 With a View


The Hike
I am officially working backwards on my "VAULT" posts for the 52 With-a-View - starting here, the most recent, and working backwards to my multiple summits of Mt. Monadnock. 

I hiked Black Mountain (Benton) oh a nice fall Sunday after a climb of nearby Blueberry Mountain. The leaves had mostly fallen and the higher peaks had a dusting of rime ice up high. The Chippewa Trail started in a small, full parking lot (I parked on the side of the road), and gently descended into the woods to a wet area, before rising again. At a junction with what I believe to be a snowmobile trail, the Chippewa Trail turns right, while a sign points left to old Lime Kilns.

"Historic Lime Kilns"
from https://www.haverhill-nh.com/index.asp?SEC=EB91BA95-3EBE-4C6F-9E1E-7D3497DE3B9C&Type=B_LOC
Two stone lime kilns stand off the Chippewa Trail near Black Mountain in Haverhill, well-preserved survivors of an important 19th century industry. Mined limestone, rare in New Hampshire, was heated in the kilns until it turned into powdered lime, which was then packed in barrels and shipped throughout New England for use in agriculture, as mortar and in a wide variety of other products. Built in 1838 and 1842, the kilns operated successfully for approximately 50 years, aided by the close proximity of acres of woodland for fuel and the Concord, Boston & Montreal Railroad for transport. The Civilian Conservation Corps and other government work programs occupied the site in the Depression, repairing one of the kilns in 1940-41. Today the Haverhill Heritage Commission is working with the property owners to keep the kiln site cleared and open for public access.

The Lime Kilns were neat and worth a side-trip. The Chippewa Trail continues to follow the road for a short bit before entering the woods, and then steeply climbing through an open, pine-filled forest. There were a few views in this area that helped break up the climb, but I remember feeling the burn on this one! The views overlooked the Connecticut River Valley, where foliage was past-peak and the high points of Vermont were standing proudly in the distance.

Further up, after rounding the shoulder of Black Mountain, was a spectacular view of Mt. Moosilauke, with an early-season white top. The trail continued just a bit longer to the summit ledge to another great view of the Moose. Off to the side was the distant and icy Mt. Lafayette, which was breathtaking to see. It would be a long time before I reach her! I shared the summit with about 10 other people, and even more were coming up on my descent. Soon enough I was back at my car, already planning my next adventure!

Step-By-Step
- Park at Chippewa Trail parking area.
- Start hike on Chippewa Trail.
- Summit Black Mountain, return to car.

Originally written and posted October 8th, 2024 at 11:07am.

[VAULT] Blueberry Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)

Blueberry Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 4.5 miles
Elevation: 1,205 feet
Time: Unknown
Hiking Challenges: 52 With a View


The Hike
It was a chilly, autumnal Sunday morning and I decided I'd head north and tackle Blueberry and Black Mountains! I don't remember too much about this hike, besides it was a beautiful morning and I was all by myself. The lower trail was a little difficult to follow as it was nearly fully coated in leaves, but it became easier and easier the higher up I went. Eventually, the Blueberry Mountain Trail reaches the slabs and partial views begin to open up, one of Mt. Moosilauke, which was freshly coated in rime ice up high. 

Past the summit, I continued onto the much colder side of the mountain to some more ledges that showcased a beautiful view towards the Connecticut River Valley, with a line of fog over the river itself. Fall colors were waining and the wind was blowing! After taking it in (and trying to stay warm!), I backtracked all the way to my car and had a short drive over to Black Mountain in Benton. 

One thing I'm noticing as I'm reflecting on these earlier hikes is how much my photo taking and editing styles have changed! I now take many more photos, essentially telling the story of the hike through them, and I edit them to give a more natural look, at least in my opinion!

Step-By-Step
- Park at Blueberry Mountain Trail trailhead on Long Pond Road.
- Hike via Blueberry Mountain Trail.
- At ledges past the summit, retrace steps to car.

Originally written & posted October 8th, 2024 at 11:21am.

Saturday, October 9, 2021

[VAULT] Crawford, Resolution, and Stairs (White Mountain National Forest)

Crawford, Resolution, and Stairs (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 10.3 miles
Elevation: 3,458 feet
Time: Unknown
Hiking Challenges: 52 With a View; Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge


The Hike
I believe this was my longest solo-hike to date! And in hindsight, one of my all-time favorites. It was an early october Saturday morning, and I remember having an early wake-up time. I landed at the Davis Path trailhead just before sunrise - enough time for a short nap. Once the sun was higher in the sky, I started my hike along the Davis Path, enjoying the Cohos Trail signage and crossing the Saco River on the Bemis Bridge, a beautiful single-track suspension bridge. The fall foliage was absolutely popping in Crawford Notch, but the cloudy skies did give me a bit of pause!

"The Davis Path"
from trailside sign.
Abel and Hannah Crawford's son-in-law Nathaniel Davis built the Davis Path in 1845. The current path runs 14.4 miles through the Presidential Range-Dry River Wilderness and joins the Crawford Path near the summit of Mt. Washington. The Bemis Bridge is named after Samuel A. Bemis, who built the nearby granite mansion.
The Davis Path trailhead was protected in 2002 through the cooperation of the White Mountain National Forest, Ed Butler, Leslie E School, and abutting landowners, and the Trust for Public Land.

The Davis Path meandered through the woods relatively gently for a bit, and then entered the Presidential Range-Dry River Wilderness, which is where the steep climb began! This climb was a doozy, but eventually came to the first view, which revealed some lower hills with hazy foliage, covered in clouds. Naturally, it was disappointing to see the clouds, but it did make for some unique photos!

Just further up the trail I ran into a mysterious bird that I had never seen before - I would learn from facebook that it was a male Spruce Grouse. Little did I know these birds would soon become my sworn enemies! This one was standing tall and proud just off-trail, seemingly ready to fight.

I arrived at the spur trail to Mt. Crawford and began the climb up granite slabs, arriving at a mysterious, socked in summit, where I could only make out a few hazy hills. Then, what still remains as the most magical moment of my hiking career thus far (as of October 9th, 2024) happened. In a span of no more than 60 seconds, almost all of the clouds burned off, revealing some of the most beautiful foliage I had ever encountered. Crawford Notch looked incredibly dramatic from this angle, with the steep slopes of Mt. Willey and Mt. Webster bordering the winding notch, with the lower parts completely covered in vibrant, autumnal colors. I remember feeling a bit emotional here by the sheer beauty. It was the first time I really saw foliage at this magnitude, and the fact that the clouds waited for me to arrive before instantly burning off was really special. I didn't realize at the time, but I also had a nice view towards Mt. Resolution and Stairs Mountain, too.

After taking a million photos and enjoying my solitude, I descended back to the Davis Path and continued on. The Davis Path alternated between scenic, sometimes foggy slabs, and wet woods. I could definitely feel the remoteness of this area, which was equally cool and unnerving for someone who hadn't done too many (or any) big hikes like this by himself.

I made it to the Mount Parker Trail and turned up the suddenly rugged footway to the beginning slabs, which showcased even more views. There was one wet slab that was a little sketchy to traverse, but I made it over no problem. The view, yet again, were beautiful, and the foliage breathtaking. I took a break here for a snack and just enjoyed looking around at all of these peaks that, over the next few years, I would get to know very well. On the return trip to the Davis Path, I also got a nice view of Stairs Mountain.

Continuing along the remote Davis Path, I finally began to see more people! It was almost nice to find other humans, just to reassure that I wasn't fully alone. I passed the junction to the Stairs Col Trail and started up the steep, but short stretch to the shoulder of Stairs Mountain.

The Stairs Mountain Spur Path was flat, gentle, and easy, passed a few tentsites, and opened up to my third and final summit view of the day. The view from Stairs Mountain was more modest than the other two viewpoints, but had a wonderful, remote feeling. I chatted with a few people that were at the viewpoint for a bit. One guy was on his eighth round of the 48 and they were hiking all the way to Isolation - he also shared stories of hiking in Maine. One in particular was that he was off hiking a remote peak and when he finished, road crews fully removed a bridge on the access road. The crew apologized and told him it would be a few hours, so he just chilled and watched the show! I chatted with another couple about food, and I apparently became known as the "cheeseburger guy" according to a later Facebook post. I really enjoyed the equal solitude and sense of community I felt on this peak - it was just people as silly as me. I would go on to feel this on many other remote peaks, but I think this was the first time I was really like "oh these are my people." There was also a USGS survey reference mark! As of the time I'm writing this, I'm starting to get into "collecting" them and learning more about them.

My return trip felt pretty easy from Stairs to Crawford - I remember being blown away by the views that had opened up, and passing just a few folks. That was, until, the final descent from Crawford. I was truly swimming upstream downhill! I passed at least a hundred hikers heading up to enjoy the spectacular views, including a few groups of backpackers. One guy, in particular, loved the colors on my Cotopaxi windbreaker and pack and gave me the (complete) history on why the outdoor industry lost its fun colors (something about hippies and naturalists I think?).

I made my way back out of the wilderness, across the Bemis Bridge, and back to my car. The Conway Scenic Railroad was passing by right when I arrived, and I stopped at the Intervale Scenic Vista on the way home. It remains one of my favorite hikes to date!

Step-by-Step
- Park at Davis Path Trailhead.
- Start hike along Davis Path.
- At jct., turn right onto Mt. Crawford Spur.
- At summit, turn around.
- Turn left to continue on Davis Path.
- At jct., turn right onto Parker Trail.
- At summit ledges, turn around.
- Turn right onto Davis Path.
- At jct. with Stairs Col Trail, continue on Davis Path.
- At next jct., turn right onto Stairs Mountain Spur.
- At summit, turn around, follow Davis Path back to car.

Originally written and posted October 10th, 2024.

Saturday, September 25, 2021

[VAULT] Hale, Zealand, Bonds Traverse (White Mountain National Forest)

Hale, Zealand, Bonds Traverse (White Mountain National Forest)
Originally written Friday, January 13th, 2023 at 4:51pm.

Hike Type: Traverse

Distance: 22.8 miles

Elevation: 5889 feet
Time: 15 hours, 30 minutes (13 hours, 51 minutes)

Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers



The Hike

Looking back, this might just be my current all-time favorite hike. It was so many firsts for me - first White Mountains traverse, first time visiting a hut, first time hiking with headlamps, and first time hiking a 22+ mile day with 5800+ feet of elevation gain. There was so much accomplished this day and SO MUCH reward in terms of views. Gen and I spent the night at the Plymouth, NH Walmart parking lot in our separate vehicles (I had to drive up after a football game). We had, I think, a 4am wake up, then a medium drive to Lincoln Woods to drop Gen's car. We also made use of the real bathrooms there. After we loaded up my car, we had the long drive around the Pemigewasset Wilderness (first getting pulled over in Lincoln for speeding - whoops) to the Hale Brook Trailhead, where I parked my car, we got loaded up, and started our massive day!


The day started with my headlamp being dead (whoops), but thankfully Gen's was fully charged and I have an industrial power bank and the right cord, so I charged up assuming we would be ending in the dark). The Hale Brook Trail was wet, but not muddy. There was significant rain the previous few days, a detail Gen and I hadn't realized at the time, which led to LOTS of water. The trail was very moderate, with no memorable steep sections. The trickiest part was the crossing of Hale Brook, which I assume is relatively easy in normal conditions. The switchbacks were also wet but not muddy, and at one of the last turns of the trail there were extremely obstructed views of the Presidentials.


Finally at the top of Hale we took a quick break, I relieved myself in the woods (only to later find out that I relieved myself steps from the unofficial fire warden's trail... oops), took some photos of the unique summit, and then disaster hit. I realized I forgot my peanut butter sandwich! Thankfully Gen brought her entire pantry for this hike, so it wasn't an absolute tragedy, but I was quite bummed. We had been playing leap frog with another pair of hikers on the Hale Brook Trail, so we let them get ahead of us from the summit before continuing on.


Next journey was from the summit of Mt. Hale to the Zealand Falls Hut via the Lend-a-Hand Trail, which was absolutely lovely, until it wasn't. The trail itself was beautiful, especially on the Hale side, but it was also a consistent stream for the vast majority of the time. The upper half had an open canopy and ran rather level with occasional shoulder drops. There were occasional views of nearby mountains, but I'm not sure which ones (this was before I had the PeakFinder app). The lower half of this trail was comically wet and muddy, with some boardwalks that didn't do much help with the current level of moisture. At one point, the trail was deeply flooded and only the boardwalks were keeping us from knee-deep (or deeper) water, and we had to do a very intimate with another hiking group to survive unscathed. We also passed a solo hiker who changed her plans for the day because she didn't want to deal with the water - we deeply understood! We knew we were getting closer to the Zealand Falls Hut when the sound of rushing water grew louder, and louder, and somehow even louder, and then we made it!


Break #2 was outside the beautiful hut with partial views. Gen and I had never been to a hut (I guess I have been to the exterior of the Lonesome Lake Hut, but I'm not counting that), so we took turns exploring. COVID precautions were still in effect so we did our best to not be nuisances. This was also my introduction to Liquid IV - an absolute game changer. I was also deeply appreciative of the bathrooms (and of course, the breeze from the composting toilets). I took a very short side quest to the edge of the Whitewall Brook which was flowing loud and hard over the granite - so beautiful!


Moving forward, we were now going from the Zealand Falls Hut to Zeacliff to the summit of Mt. Zealand, all on the Twinway trail. This is when "sh*t got real," so to say. The Twinway crosses two branches of the Whitewall Brook. The first crossing was on a gentle slab that would have been fine in normal water, but the whole slab was flowing (gently, at least) and this was our first time of the day getting our shoes a little wet. Just a few more steps down the trail was a much larger branch with much faster water. There was a group ahead of us that split in two - one half just walked through and got wet, and the other half was searching for a dry crossing point. We decided to just go for it and walk right through, fully soaking our feet for the rest of the day (a skill that would come in handy when we would later do Owl's Head). The trail climbed moderately with some steeper pitches afterwards, which had our shoes making comical sloshy sounds.


Soon enough we were at the magnificent Zeacliff - wow! We were not alone at the outlook, but something about being with people deep in the woods is vastly different than being with people near a trailhead. We took a minute here to wring out our socks and got back on our journey. The trail around the Twinway/Zeacliff junction was just as wet as everything else, but thankfully this section was all on boardwalks.


The rest of the journey up to Mt. Zealand's summit was pretty gentle with a few steeper pitches (and at least one wooden ladder according to my photos). The further up the trail, the smaller the vegetation got which is always fun, but we wouldn't be breaking out of treeline for a bit longer. The final stretch to the summit was a 0.1 spur trail through straight mud to a small circular clearing in the woods. We managed to cross a trail running group who were brave and sloshing right on through. This summit was packed relative to its size, so we just took our photos and retraced our step back to Twinway.


Next step was the Zealand summit spur to the Bondcliff Trail. This was my second favorite section of the hike because it brought us back into the Alpine Zone, a place we hadn't been since our first 4k, Moosilauke. This stretch was beautiful and exciting, and the views from Guyot were magnificent. It was so cool to see the high peaks and the deep valleys, and looking back at the photos while writing this, its so cool to be able to identify all these places I didn't know before. The Twinway goes over the northeast summit of Mt. Guyot, not a 4k due to prominence issues, and then comes to the junction with the Bondcliff Trail, one of the most beautiful junctions I've seen. There were a few backpackers sitting right at the trail marker (which was annoying), so we got a classic sign photo and continued onward.


Now on the Bondcliff Trail, our next destination was West Bond. The trail dips back below treeline to the spur to the Guyot Campsite, and then officially enters the Pemigewasset Wilderness! In a deeper section of forest is the nearly camouflaged sign for the West Bond Spur. The trail drops for a while on a narrower path, with some evidence of camping, and then begins to quickly climb back up in a somehow more narrow trail. We popped out onto the small summit that truly gave the "on top of the world" feeling, and we were lucky to finally have this summit to ourselves! Looking back on the photos, this view might be my favorite in the whites so far. You can see the whole ridge connecting to Bondcliff, and when we hiked this in late September, the lower half of the mountainside was a beautiful bright yellow - just incredible! Mountains in every direction - we were so lucky. The only thing that got us moving again were the bugs that had woken up. We made our return to the Bondcliff Trail, and were heading up to Mt. Bond!


At this point in the day, I had already beat my record for "most elevation climbed in a day," so I was feeling it. The stretch up to Mt. Bond, the highest peak of the day, was slow and steady, but very straightforward. We passed and were passed by groups that we'd been leapfrogging all day, many of which were foreign which I thought was cool, and then FINALLY we rentered the Alpine Zone and made it to the endless summit of Mt. Bond! 360 views as far as the eyes could see. Mountains in all directions with Mt. Washington watching high above. Even far in the distance we could see Jay Peak, near where Emma lives. While I was admiring the view Gen changed her socks and exclaimed - MATT YOU NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SOCKS YOU WILL FEEL LIKE A NEW WOMAN - she was right. I was reborn. We chitchatted with some other hikers and then set forth for our penultimate destination - Bondcliff!


The trail down Bond was steep and rocky - we were happy to be going down this way instead of up for sure. The view of Bondcliff was amazing from the upper stretches of the trail, and the excitement was really starting to build. I found myself very deep in my feelings at this point of the hike - very proud of us and so excited to hit this final peak. I booped the cairn in the col between the two mountains, and then slowly climbed up (which for me, was my favorite part - I was surprised to feel such a "high" before even getting to the top). Gen got ahead of me, which was more than fine. I was preserving my heart rate (but I like to say I was "taking every second in"). And then we made it! Took tons of photos, Gen got the classic Bondcliff photo (I was very much in my own feelings in my own head at this point, so I was happy just to be behind the camera), and then we took what would be our last rest of the day - something we're not sure if we regret or not. We ate some food, admired the Pemi, and had a few side conversations with other hikers. One couple was gridding, and another group got very mad at me when I mentioned that I wanted a cheeseburger (they too, wanted a cheeseburger). We then noticed how low the sun was getting, and decided we should shimmy on down this mountain. We wanted to make it to the old railbed on the Bondcliff Trail before it was pitch black out (we were moderately successful).


The sun was starting to set and we were starting to get back into the treeline. Thankfully this trail was nice and gentle, with a few brook crossings that were thankfully no problem. We took a very short break for Gen to filter some water, but didn't stop again until we were done. We made it to the lower stretches of Bondcliff when it was headlamp time again, and only had a little bit of wiggly trail in the dark. This was my first time truly hiking in the dark, and while it wasn't terrible, I did get spooked every now and then. I made the fatal error of thinking that the old railroad grade on the Bondcliff Trail was the Lincoln Woods Trial, so this already long return trip felt like a century - especially paired with our tired bodies and our soaked, blistered feet. We did pause our jaunt just past the Lincoln Woods/Bondcliff junction on the bridge over Franconia Brook. Gen's headlamp was now dead and I turned mine off so we could see the stars and WOW. It was absolutely breathtaking. We continued on prance down the railroad bed trying to keep conversation going (Gen gave me the synopsis of every show she's ever watched), and then I saw it! Headlights in the distance! Just kidding - it was just a pair of night hikers. I was so sad. Gen was a good sport through, she knew it wasn't real the whole time but let me live in delusion. Eventually, we finally hit the world's favorite suspension bridge, leading us to the parking lot and back to the car! Sadly though, the day wasn't over just yet!


Back at the car we changed our clothes, used the bathrooms, applied diaper rash ointment as necessary, and drove to McDonalds for food. We then had the 35 minute drive back to Hale Brook, where Gen started her drive home, but I took a nap. I'm apparently very bad at sleeping in my car, because every 10 or so minutes I would have a dream that someone was knocking on my window, so I then started my drive. I was getting drowsy after like 20 more minutes, so I pulled into the Old Man site for another nap. After that I was able to make it to Sanbornton, and then Hooksett, and then FINALLY back home. I think I didn't get home until after 3:00am - meaning next time we have a day like that, we will get a hotel. What an incredible day - I cannot wait to do it again!


Step-By-Step

  • Start hike at Hale Brook Trail, hike to the top of Mt. Hale.

  • From the summit of Mt. Hale, continue hike on the Lend-a-Hand Trail to the Zealand Falls Hut.

  • Rest at the Zealand Falls Hut, then retrace steps to Twinway junction and turn onto Twinway.

  • At the junction of Twinkway and Bondcliff Trail, turn left onto Bondcliff Trail.

  • Follow Bondcliff Trail over the summit of Mt. Guyot.

  • At junction with West Bond Spur, take the out and back to West Bond.

  • Back on the Bondcliff Trail, continue over summit of Mt. Bond and Bondcliff, then descend back into the forest.

  • At the trail terminus, continue hike along the Lincoln Woods Trail back to the car.


“Hale Brook Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

This trail climbs from Zealand Rd. (FR 16), at a parking area 2.5mi from US 302, to the clearing at the summit of Mt. Hale, which provides only very restricted views over trees that have been steadily reclaiming the formerly bare summit. The trail has steady, moderate grades an dpasses through a fine birch forest in its middle section. 

The yellow-blazed trail leaves the parking area, crosses a cross-country ski trail, then ascends steadily to cross Hale Brook at 0.8mi. The trail continues the steady climb then swings left at 1.1mi and ascends gradually across the steep slope above Hale Brook (a difficult sidehill in winter), recrossing the brook in its rocky bed at 1.3mi. The trail ascends by several switchbacks, crossing a small brook at 1.7mi. Still ascending and curving gradually to the right, the trail enters the conifers, passes a restricted view southwest to Mt. Willey, and attains the summit (where a cleaning has a large cairn) from the east. 


“Lend-A-Hand Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

This attractive trail connects Zealand Falls Hut with the summit of Mt. Hale, which offers only very restricted views over trees that are steadily growing taller. The grade is fairly easy, but the footing is rather rough for a good part of its distance. The trail takes its name from a journal for charitable organizations that was edited by Edward Everett Hale, the Boston pastor and author for whom Mt. Hale was named. 

The trail diverges right (north) from Twinway 0.1mi above Zealand Falls Hut and climbs steadily, crossing a small brook three times. After about 0.5mi, the grade becomes easy in a long section with numerous plank walkways, where small brooks flow in and through the trail. At 1.5mi, the trail enters a scrubby, ledgy area with limited views and ascends moderately. In a rocky area at 1.9mi, an opening 30yd right of the trail offers a good outlook toward Carrigan Notch. The trail then traverses a long, level shoulder, descending slightly. At 2.4 mi, the trail climbs another rocky pitch and continues in open conifers to the summit clearing, marked by a large cairn, where Hale Brook Trail leaves east (right). Many of the rocks around the former fire tower site are reputed to be strongly magnetic. 


“Twinway (AT)” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

The train extends from Galehead Hut to a jct with Zealand Trail and Ethan Pond Trail 0.2mi beyond Zealand Falls Hut, forming an important ridge crest link along the north edge of the Pemigewasset Wilderness that connects the mountains of the western part of the region - the Franconia Range, Mt. Garfield, and the Twins - to the Bonds, the Zealand-Hale region, the WIlley Range, and the northern parts of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Twinway offers magnificent views from the summits of South Twin Mtn and Mt. Guyot and from the outlook at Zeacliff, and connecting trails lead to a number of other suburb outlooks. For its entire length, Twinway is part of the AT.

The following description of the path is the eastbound direction (Galehead Hut to Zealand Falls Hut). [...]. From the jct. Of Frost and Garfield Ridge trails 40yds from Galehead Hut, Twinway passes over a ledgy hump, descent to a sag, then climbs steadily and steeply on a rocky footway up the cone of South Twin to the south knob of the open summit at 0.8mi. North Twin spur begins here, running straight ahead 40 yards to the north knob and then on to North Twin. Twinway turns right (south), enters the woods, and descends along the broad ridge towards Mt. Guyot, with easy to moderate grades after an initial steep pitch below the summit. At 1.8mi, the trail crosses a ledgy hump with restricted views. The trail descends easily to the main col between South Twin and Guyot then climbs out of the scrub to open rocks on the side of Guyot and reaches the jct with Bondcliff Trail on the right at 2.8mi. Guyot Campsite is 0.8mi from this jct via Bondcliff Trail and spur path. 

Twinway turns left and ascends in the open to the flat northeast summit of Guyot at 2.9mi; hikers should take care to stay on the marked trail and avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation. The trail reenters the woods and descends at a moderate grade with some rough footing on the long ridge leading northeast toward Zealand Mtn, reaching the col at 3.9mi. The trail then blimbs rather steeply, and at 4.1mi a few yards before reaching the height-of-land, the trail passes a small cairn marking a side path on the left that runs nearly level 0.1 mi to the true summit of Zealand Mtn (sign), wooded and viewless. The main trail continues at mostly easy grades down the ridge, passes a ledge with a view southeast at 5.1mi, then descends a steep pitch with a ladder, and in a sag at 5.3mi passes a side path that diverges right and descends to the shore of tiny, boggy Zeacliff Pond in 0.1 mi(100ft descent). The  main trail ascends over a scrubby hump and passes the jct right with Zeacliff Trail at 5.7mi. 

In another 0.1mi, Twinway reaches a loop side path that leads 75yd right to the magnificent Zeacliff outlook then turns sharply left and runs 70yd to rejoin the main trail 50 yd eas of its point of departure. Between the loop jcts, Twinway climbs over a ledge with views that are good but greatly inferior to those from the Zeacliff outlook. At the farther loop jct, Twinway turns left, ascends slightly, then descends steadily with rocky footing. At 6.9mi, the trail crosses two branches of Whitewall Brook on ledges (use caution in high water), and Lend-a-Hand Trail immediately enters on the left. Twinway passes in front of Zealand Falls Hut at 7.0mi, where a short side path leads right to scenic ledges on Whitewall Brook; from the hut is a good view of Zealand Notch and Mt. Carrigan. The main trail then descends steeply on rock steps, passing a side path right to a viewpoint for Zealand Falls, then crosses the outlet of Zealand Pond and reaches the grade of the old logging railroad. Here, Zealand Trail turns left and Ethan Pond Trail turns right, both on the railroad grade. 


“Bondcliff Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

This trail begins at a jct with Lincoln Woods Trail and Franconia Brook Trail just north of the bridge of Franconia Brook, 2.9mi from the parking area on the Kancamagus Highway. Bondcliff Trail leads along the East Branch to the site of old logging camp 16 on a section that was formerly part of Wilderness Trail, ascends over Bondcliff and Mt. Bond, and ends at Twinway  just west of the summit of Mt. Guyot. Bondcliff Trail connects the Pemigewasset East Branch valley with the high summits of the Twin Range, and the entire trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness except for a short segment at the north end. The long section on Bondcliff and one shorter section on Guyot are above treeline, with great exposure to the weather. The views from this trail are unsurpassed in the White Mountains. 

From the jct on the north side of the Franconia Brook bridge, Bondcliff Trail bears right, bypassing a wet section of railroad grade, then joins the grade and continues to swing to the east. The trail crosses a brook at 1.0mi, and reaches the camp 16 clearing (where camping is no longer permitted) at 1.8mi. (Until this point, the trail was formerly part of the Wilderness Trail;the section of Wilderness Trail that continued ahead for 0.7mi on the railroad grade to the site of the suspension bridge over the East Branch - which was removed in 2009 - has been closed). Here Bondcliff Trail turns left, runs level for 100yd, turns sharply left just before reaching Black Brook, and climbs a bank to an old logging road. The trail then leaves the logging road and climbs well up on the slope to the west of the brook. At 2.9mi, after a slight descent, the trail bears left to rejoin the logging road along the brook and ascends easily, although parts of the road are severely eroded. 

The trail then makes the first of four crossings of the brook at 3.2mi, the second crossing, at 3.7mi, provides the last sure water. At the third crossing, at 4.3mi, the trail turns right and crosses the brook bed (often dry). In 40yd - a tricky spot - the trail reaches another brook bed (usually dry), descends along it ot the right for 20yd, then swings sharply left out of the brook bed and climbs a steep slope on rock steps. (Descending, the trail swings right at the bottom of the steps into the brook bed, ascends along it for 20yd, then turns sharply left out of it). The trail then swings left to another old logging road and crosses a gravel bank where one can look almost straight up to the summit of Bondcliff. IN a short distance, the trail makes teh last brook crossing in a steep, south-facing ravine; if the brook is dry here, water can sometimes be found a short distance further up in teh streambed. The trail winds up a small, prow-shaped, hanging ridge that protrudes into the main ravine then swings left at 5.0mi and begins a long sidehill ascent of the steep slope on a logging road, heading back to the southwest. At 5.9mi, the trail reaches the crest of Bondcliff’s south ridge, swings north, and ascends the ridge to a short, difficult scramble up a ledge. Soon the trail breaks out of teh scrub and climbs along the edge of the cliffs, with spectacular views, reaching the summit of Bondcliff at 6.2 (Caution: The trail runs above treeline for about a mile and is potentially dangerous in bad weather, particularly high winds. When visibility is poor, stay well to the right (east) of the edge of the precipices). 

The trail now descends the open ridge into a long, flat col then ascends the steep, rough slope of Mt. Bond, reentering scrubby woods about halfway up. At 7.4mi, the trail passes just wets of the summit of Mt. Bond, which commands a magnificent unrestricted view of the surrounding wilderness and mountains. Here, the trail bears left (northwest); in the reverse direction, it bears right (southwest) of the summit area. The trail descends north, crossing a minor knob, then drops down rather steeply past West Bond Spur on the left at 7.9mi and leaves the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The trail reaches the Bond-Guyot col at 8.1mi, where a spit path descends right (east) at 0.2mi and 200ft to Guyot Campsite and its spring. Bondcliff Trail then ascends to the bare south summit of Mt. Guyot and continues mostly in the open 0.2 mi to its jct with Twinway 0.1mi west of the less-open north summit of Guyot. Go straight ahead here for the Twins and Galehead Hut, or turn right for Zealand Mtn. and Zealand Falls Hut. 


“West Bond Spur” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

This short path provides access to the sharp, rocky summit of the West Peak of Mt. Bond, which is perched high above the deep valleys of an extensive Wilderness Area, commanding magnificent views. The entire trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The trail leaves Bondcliff Trail 0.5mi north of the summit of Mt. Bond and 0.2mi south of the spit to Guyot Campsite, descends moderately for 0.3mi to the col at the foot of West Bond, and ascends moderately for a short distance. West Bond Spur then climbs the steep cone to the summit, which is the most easterly of several small peaks on a ridge running east and west. 


“Lincoln Woods Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide (30th Ed.)

Lincoln Wood Trail runs for 2.9mi along the west side of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, from the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) to a footbridge over Franconia Brook, forming a central artery from which several trails diverge and lead to various destinations near and in the western part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Lincoln Woods Trail follows the wide bed of a logging railroad that last operated in 1948. The trail begins at a large parking area with USFS information center on the north side of the road (sign: Lincoln Woods), just east of the highway bridge over the East Branch, 5.6mi from the information center at I-93, Exit 32 in Lincoln and 0.3mi beyond the Hancock Campground. This trail receives extremely heavy use, and camping is strictly regulated (See p. 151 for camping regulations). The area along the East Branch was heavily damaged by the 2011 storm, and in many places, the high, steep riverbanks have been severely undercut, creating a serious hazard for hikers who approach too close to the edge. 

Note: The suspension footbridge that crossed the East Branch 5.4mi from the Lincoln Woods trailhead was removed in 2009. Advanced route planning is essential. If you are starting your hike at Lincoln Woods, be sure to start on the correct side of the East Branch, depending on your destination. [...]. Do not rely on crossing the river at either the Franconia Brook Tentsite or the site of the former suspension bridge. A former 0.7mi section of the Wilderness Trail on the north side of the river and west of the bridge site has been closed. (This bridge removal does not affect the suspension bridge location at the Lincoln Woods Trailhead). 

Leaving the parking lot, Lincoln Woods runs across the deck of the information center and descends a wooden stairway to the left, swings left past a kiosk and crosses the East Branch on a suspension bridge, then turns right and follows the railroad bed along the river, climbing almost imperceptibly. At 0.7mi the trail skis to the left of a major washout from the 2011 storm, with a view over the river to Mt. Hitchcock. Soon the trail crosses Osseo Brook over a culvert and follows it upstream, and at 1.4mi Osseo Trail diverges left to follow Osseo Brook up its valley. Lincoln Woods Trail soon passes the old logging camp 8 clearing on the left, and at 1.8mi, by a piece of old rail, the trail comes close to the river’s edge, where a fine view upstream to Bondcliff can be obtained from the rocks just off the trail. 

Soon the trail crosses Birch Island Brook on a bridge, and a long straightaway leads to the jct with Black Pond Trail on the left at 2.6mi. At 2.9mi, just before the bridge across Franconia Brook, Franconia Falls Trail diverges left. From this jct, Lincoln Woods Trail descends ahead to cross Franconia Brook on a footbridge. About 50yd beyond the Franconia Brook footbridge, Lincoln Woods Trail ends at the Pemigewasset Wilderness boundary. Here, Franconia Brook Trail climbs the bank on the left (north) and Bondcliff Trail (formerly a section of Wilderness Trail) diverges right (east). (Note: Use of a former route leading from the north end of the footbridge to a crossing of the East Branch is discouraged because the step stones have mostly been swept away, and the river crossing is often dangerous). 

Thursday, September 16, 2021

[VAULT] North & Middle Sugarloaf (White Mountain National Forest)

North & Middle Sugarloaf (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: OuT-and-Back
Distance: 4.6 miles
Elevation: 1,159 feet
Time: Unknown.
Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View


The Hike
This was a fun one! Sara and I both had Yom Kippur off of school - even while now working in different school districts, so she (cautiously) agreed to come on a hike with me! I was looking over the 52 With-a-View list, and saw the stats and trip reports of North & Middle Sugarloafs (sugarloaves?) sounded like the perfect match! I got her outfitted in all of my extra gear, we got up a little early (she refused to do my usual level of early), stopped at The Basin for a quick walk, and made our way to the Sugarloaf Trail trailhead!

Right away, the hike was in beautiful, mossy woods with a few hints of fall foliage. A notable feature of this trail was the endless, massive boulders. Sara, being as tiny as a tater tot, loved it! The trail lever got too steep, and soon enough were were up at the T-junction, where Middle Sugarloaf was 0.4 miles to the left, and North Sugarloaf 0.3 miles to the right. I can't remember why, but we chose to do North Sugardloaf first. There was also a sign alerting mineral collectors that "suface disturbance for mineral collecting is PROHIBITED outside designated mineral collecting areas. The use of any hand tool constitutdes surface disturbance."

The trail to North Sugarloaf was open and spooky with some leftover morning fog, and it opened to a spectacular vista into the valley below! There were just slight hints of fall with a few low clouds lingering about. To the right was a view toward Middle and South Sugarloafs and (possibly) Mt. Hale. 

We backtracked to the junction and continued toward Middle Sugarloaf, which was nice and straightforward, and featured a wooden staircase at the end! The view south was absolutely stunning, and the summit ledges encouraged lots of exploring to catch different views - including the Presidential Range!

After the hike, Sara and I drove through Crawford Notch, stopped at the Highland Center, followed the Kanc back to Lincoln, and had a final stop at the Flume Gorge, which was absolutely incredible! Looking back at the photos while writing this, I definitely want to revisit some time. We ended our day in Meredith to get a delcious lunch on Lake Winnipesauke.

Step-By-Step
- Start hike on Sugarloaf Trail (parking area)
- At split, turn right to hike North Sugarloaf.
- After summit, backtrack, and continue to Middle Sugarloaf.
- After summit, backtrack to original split, turn right to descend to car.

Originally written and posted October 24th, 2024.

Monday, August 30, 2021

[VAULT] Mt. Willard (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Willard (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 3.4 miles
Elevation: 927 feet
Time: Unknown
Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View


The Hike
This one was a quick and easy(ish - my heart was pounding but it wasn't long at all) after a fun weekend of hiking up north with Emma (hitting Magalloway, Averill, and Brousseau before hitting Willard on my return trip). I hit the trail just before 8:00am and there were somehow few cars around. I had most of the hike to myself, minus a few folks who were in better shape hiking past me! I remember enjoying the cascades along the trail, and just as I began to gas out, I was at the top! The true summit is off in the woods, and my only goal was the view, which was beautiful. There were still some early-morning clouds hugging Mt. Willey and Mt. Webster, but the dramatic view in Crawford Notch was still excellent. I had a quick return trip followed by a short jaunt up Elephant's Head.

Step-By-Step
- Park at Crawford Depot, cross the train tracks, and start hike on Avalon Trail.
- At jct., turn left onto Mt. Willard Trail.
- Summit, turn around and retrace steps back to car.

Originally written & posted Monday, October 28th, 2024 at 2:31pm.

Saturday, August 28, 2021

[VAULT] Mt. Magalloway (Pittsburg, NH)

Mt. Magalloway (Pittsburg, NH)

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Distance: 2.2 miles
Elevation: 796 feet
Time: Unknown
Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View; NH Fire Towers


The Hike
A redemption story! On August 20th, 2020, Emma and I hiked Table Rock in Dixville Notch. We then aimed to hike Mt. Magalloway, which was a long drive away. We wiggled through country roads, went through Pittsburgh, drove on the wide Magalloway Road, dodged logging trucks, and made it 1.5 miles down the infamous, brutal Tower Road, only to be turned around by road crews. Still being relatively new to my hiking life, I didn't even think about parking on a pull-out and hike the road. We bowed our heads, put our tails in between our legs, and eventually hit our consolation hike to the 4th Connecticut Lake (which was super cool on its own!). 

Now, just over a year later, it was redemption time! I was visiting Emma for a few days, and I convinced her to meet me in Pittsburgh and I'd drive us to the trailhead. Our drive was successful, albeit comically long. We were delighted to find a bathroom at the trailhead, and we were off! We hiked up the Coot Trail, which was wide with rough footing - not our favorite. Soon enough we were at the summit - marked by a large sign and fire tower. Before climbing the tower, we followed a spur path to a neat view of some sharp cliffs. We hiked the tower, enjoying the far north views, and also encountered our first Gray Jays! They were VERY friendly, almost swooping down to swipe the snacks right out of our hands!

We descended via the Bobcat Trail, which felt more like a footpath with some wet undergrowth. Some people report prefering going up and down Bobcat, but I still liked the loop. Soon enough we were back on the road heading toward Vermont! It was wild having the drive being significantly longer than the hike, but it is what it is! We planned to hike Averill and Brousseau in Vermont on the way home, but it started to rain, so we got Maple Creemees instead!

Step-By-Step
- Park at the parking area at the end of Tower Road.
- Start hike on the Coot Trail.
- At summit of Mt. Magalloway, follow spur to view, then return to tower.
- Descend to parking area via Bobcat Trail.

Originally posted on Tuesday, October 28th, 2024 at 2:39pm.

Monday, August 16, 2021

[VAULT] Potash Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)

Potash Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Eyeglasses Loop
Distance: 12.76 miles
Elevation: 3,478 feet
Time: 7 hours, 57 minutes (6 hours, 59 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers; Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge


The Hike
Hike #2 for the day! This would end up being one of my biggest solo days so far, with over 12 miles and 4,000 feet. My legs were DEAD by the end, but the view up top was incredibly rewarding! From Sandwich Mountain/Jennings Peak, I drove over to the Kancamagus Highway to the Mt. Potash trailhead. I hiked onto the Downes Brook Trail and soon turned onto the Mt. Potash Trail. Soon after, I crossed the wide Downes Brook on a slow, but easy rock hop, and continued through the woods. Over time, the trail began to get slabbier and slabbier, really kicking up a fire in my quads. Thankfully, all the burning was rewarded with first a commanding view toward Mt. Passaconaway, then Mt. Chocorua with the Sisters, and finally the best view out toward Mt. Carrigain with the Presidentials to the far right. Really beautiful! The return trip was quick and easy, and I was sore for a few days later.

Step-By-Step
- From parking area, start hike on Downes Brook Trail.
- At jct., turn right onto Mt. Potash Trail.
- At summit, retrace steps.

Originally written and posted Tuesday, October 29th, 2024 at 7:48am.

[VAULT] Sandwich Dome & Jennings Peak (White Mountain National Forest)

Sandwich Dome & Jennings Peak (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Upside-down Lollipop Loop
Distance: 8.3 miles
Elevation: 2,743 feet
Time: Unknown
Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View


The Hike
Hike #1 for the day! The plan is to hike Jennings Peak and Sandwich Dome (or Sandwich Mountain, I guess it has two names?), and then drive over to hit Mt. Potash as well. I started my hike soon after sunrise on the Sandwich Mountain Trail, which starts steeply climbing right away, soon entering the Sandwich Range Wilderness. The first reward after a tough climb is Noon Peak, which provied a nice view toward the Tripyramids. Continuing on, I then reached the 0.2 mi. spur path to Jennings Peak, which also had some beautiful views, including up to Sandwich Dome.

From Jennings Peak, the Sandwich Mountain Trail eased for a bit before a final steeper push up to the summit and view, which I remember being partailly obstructed by trees (I've heard that in the past couple of years some locals have cut down some obstructing trees, though). I do remember there being a TON of flies up here, so I did not stay long.

My return trip started down the Sandwich Mountain Trail, eventually turning onto Drakes Brook Trail, which initially descended via a few switchbacks before easily leveling out for a smooth final descent. The trail mostly paralleled the Drakes Brook, which was beautiful. I remember passing a couple of hikers who were heading up just as I was finishing up - the first people I'd seen all day - and they were surprised to see me descending and impressed I was already finishing up my hike. That was particularly excellent for my ego!

Step-By-Step
- Start hike on Sandwich Mountain Trail
- At jct., follow spur to Jennings Peak.
- Continue along Sandwich Mountain Trail to summit.
- At summit, turn around.
- At third jct., turn right onto Drakes Brook Trail.
- Follow Drakes Brook Trail back to car.

Originally written and posted Tuesday, October 29th, 2024 at 8:03am.

Thursday, June 17, 2021

[VAULT] Mt. Tecumseh via Waterville Valley (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Tecumseh via Waterville Valley (White Mountain National Forest)
Originally written January 14th, 2023 at 10:37am.

Hike Type: Out and Back

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation: 2156 feet
Time: 3 hours, 41 minutes (3 hours, 14 mintues Moving)

Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge



The Hike

It was a Thursday morning in June and instead of working, Gen and I decided to drive up north to meet the smallest 4000-footer, Mt. Tecumseh. It was a beautiful early summer morning with temperatures in the low 50s which soon rose to a delightful upper 60s. We slept a little later than usual since it was a weekday and there wouldn't be too many crowds to avoid. We made it to the Waterville Valley ski area, drove in circles until we found the trailhead, and got started!

 

The sun was peeking through the hazy clouds right away as it peered over the Tripyramids, but we were soon in the woods. It was a very quiet morning with what appeared to be hundreds of baby butterflies resting on the ground. The trail was a bit rocky and root-y in the lower half, but nothing ridiculous. A great feature around the halfway point was a very short spur to one of the ski slopes that gave a beautiful view of the sun shining above the Tripyramids and other peaks. Everything was so green this day! (I might be saying this since I'm writing it in January of 2023 and I miss green things...).

 

After the view is when the stairmaster begins - endless stone steps for as far as the eye could see! I remember reading about this, but I don't remember it bothering me too much (or it's a classic type 2 fun situation). Eventually, the trail will begin to level out and come to a junction with the Sosman Trail, which would have views from the top of the ski area. We continued toward the summit.

 

There is a small loop trail that goes up and over the summit, and we took it clockwise. The character of the trail changes here - it feels more like wilderness and less like a good cardio workout, which was nice. The footing was also more rugged here, but again, nothing too crazy. Soon enough we were up at the summit! I was pleasantly surprised - I had heard that there wasn't a good view but I disagree - there was a lovely view of the area. I also always appreciate a summit disc!

 

We took a few photos, chatted with one other hiker who was a local getting her "morning hike in" (the dream), and then continued our hike by first finishing the loop and heading back to the junction with the Sosman Trail. We said we could either do the out and back on the Sosman Trail or head down the mountain and drive over the Welsh-Dickey for another hike, and we decided on the latter. We flew down the mountain and made it back to the car in no time. This may have been the day that I brought a couple Jimmy Dean breakfast sandwiches with me and left them on my dashboard to "cook" - and if it was this day - it worked! It was absolutely delightful. We took a break and a snack in the parking lot, and then drove not too far away for our next hike of the day.

 

Step-By-Step

  • Start hike at Waterville Valley ski area parking lot at Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.

  • Follow yellow-blazed Mt. Tecumseh Trail up mountain, stopping halfway at the view spur.

  • At junction with Sosman Trail, continue on Mt. Tecumseh Trail.

  • At the trail split for the summit, choose either direction to reach the summit (we went left).

  • Summit Mt. Tecumseh!

  • Continue down the other half of the trail, taking care to not go to Tripoli Road.

  • Retrace steps to car. 


"Mt. Tecumseh Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

    This trail ascends Mt. Tecumseh, starting at Waterville Valley Ski Area at the top right (northwest) edge of the ski area parking loop road, across from lot 1. The trail climbs the east slope of Mt. Tecumseh then descends the northwest ridge to a parking area just off Tripoli Rd. (FR 30), 5.5 mi. east of I-93 (Exit 31, northbound ramp) and 1.2 mi. west of the Mt. Osceola Trail parking area.

    Starting at a trail sign at the edge of the ski area parking lot, the trail crosses a small brook, where the trail was washed out by Tropical Storm Irene in 2011. At 0.3 mi. the trail crosses the brook and follows a section of trail along a small ridge above the north side. At 1.1 mi., the trail drops and recrosses the brook then climbs by switchbacks to intersect the former route, an old logging road, about 20 yd. from the edge of the ski slopes; good views can be obtained by following the old trail left to the edge of the open slope. THe main trail turns right and follows the rocky old road, with many volunteer-built rock steps and drainages, angling upward along the south side of the Tecumseh Brook valley and passing two more paths leading to the ski slopes. It then climbs steadily to the main ridge crest south of Mt. Tecumseh, where the trail turns right in a flat area. Here, at 2.2 mi., Sosman trail enters from the left, from the top of the ski area.

    In another 120 yd., Sosman Trail forks left to ascend the summit from the west. Mt. Tecumseh Trail swings right, descending slightly to circle the base of the steep cone (passing a restricted view of Sandwich Mtn.), and finally climbs steeply to reach the summit from the north at 2.5 mi. The summit offers open views to the east. Care must be taken to follow the correct trail for the descent; new signage has improved the situation. Mt. Tecumseh Trail leaves north for the ski area and west-northwest for Tripoli Rd., whereas Sosman Trail runs almost due south along the ridge crest then turns sharply right (west) off the ridge and descends. [...].