Mt. Moosilauke Traverse via Beaver Brook & Glencliff Trails (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Moosilauke Traverse via Beaver Brook & Glencliff Trails (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Traverse

Distance: 9.18 miles

Elevation: 3,202 feet

Time: 6 hours, 17 minutes (5 hours, 23 minutes)
Hiking Challenges: Terrifying 25, Operational Alaska Benchmark Challenge

The Hike

Day three of my little hike-a-palooza and day two in the Whites! Sarah and I are both at the end of our 48 journies, and we've basically been procrastinating our finishes. It was going to be either a lovely day or a cloudy day, and we ended up planning a Mt. Moosilauke Traverse via the Appalachian Trail (we both wanted to hike the Beaver Brook Trail, but we simply did not want to have to descend it). It had been almost five years since the first time I hiked Mt. Moosilauke, and it felt special that I was revisiting it before my big finish. I spent the night at the Days Inn in Lincoln and it was a CHILLY 45 degrees when I left the room! I stopped at the Dunkin in Lincoln for breakfast and a summit sandwich, passed more gas than I had in my entire life, and wiggled my way over to the Glencliff Trailhead.

On the way, along NH-118, was an INSANE sunrise viewpoint. I remembered it briefly from when Gen and I hiked Moosilauke the first time. The "sun pillar" was strong, but unfortunately I couldn't dilly-dally, as Sarah and I planned to meet at Glencliff and we were on a time crunch with marching band in the afternoon. It was looking like the "clear" forecast was going to be the winner, which was super exciting! I met Sarah around 6:20am, we hopped my car, and had a wonderful, scenic drive back along NH-118 to the Beaver Brook Trailhead!

We suited up at Beaver Brook just after 7:00am. Unfortunately, the payment electronic kiosk was out of order, so I had to spend $10 instead of the usual $5 (I only had a $10 bill) for the day pass (which is truly fine - the money goes back to the Forest Service). We got our chores done, and then we were off!

[7:15am - Start of Hike on Beaver Brook Trail]

The Beaver Brook Trail began by passing the inflow (or outflow, not actually sure) of Beaver Pond and meanders through these lovely woods, crossing a couple of bridges in the process. There were some early morning colors in the sky above, but the woods remained dark. We passed some ghost pipes and the characteristic bright-orange signage of the Dartmouth Outing Club.

[7:27am - Beaver Brook Trail/Departs Forest Protection Area]

We left the Forest Protection Area and continued to work our way through the woods, now starting to gain elevation on a really well-constructed trail. There were some wonderful waterfalls on the right, some we could see through the trees and others we could carefully walk out and get a great view of. 

The famous wooden stairs started soon after leaving the Forest Protection Area, but I wouldn't describe the trail as "terrifying," yet. The trail climbed similarly to the Wildcat Ridge Trail from NH-16, but with less open exposure. It was very steep, but we were moving so slow due to the technical nature (and waterfall views) that we didn't feel it too badly. There ended up being two sketchier sections. The first was some wooden stairs followed by a medium-tricky scramble (we both made it up completely fine), which led to another fantastic waterfall view.

The second was a longer series of stairs over a wet slab that led to another wonderful view. Once higher up, we began to get little peek-a-views out to the surrounding mountains. We passed a guy who was taking a break here and then he followed us for a bit before eventually leap-frogging us later on.

[8:17am - Beaver Brook Trail/Enters Forest Protection Area]

[8:40am - Beaver Brook Shelter Spur]

We hiked for another ten-ish minutes through beautiful forests, away from the Brook, and entered the Forest Protection Area of the Beaver Brook Shelter. The climbing was rugged, wet, and rocky, but didn't feel like it lasted for too long. The spur was clearly signed, passed a privy, and had a shelter and a few tent platforms. We heard people in the shelter, so we took a snack break on one of the tent platforms and just enjoyed the woods - it was such a beautiful, chilly day! One camper in the shelter came out and asked if either of us had duct tape for his water filter - sadly neither of us did. 

[9:00am - Beaver Brook Trail]

[9:10am - Beaver Brook Trail/Departs Forest Protection Area]

We continued on the much-easier Beaver Brook Trail after our break, which had transitioned from a rugged, rocky climb to a nice easy-moderate one through mossy woods, eventually leading to the junction with the Asquam Ridge Trail. Just before, there was a cool sign by the DOC that read (traveling northbound on Beaver Brook): "THIS TRAIL CAN BE EXTREMELY SLIPPERY WHEN ICY OR WET. BE CAUTIOUS AND CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE ROUTE."

[9:16am - Beaver Brook Trail/Asquam Ridge Trail jct.]

The hike basically became an easy walk in the woods after the Asquam Ridge Trail junction. Footing was great, plants were lushious but not intruding, and all was great! We traversed a non-obstructive blowdown patch that provided tree views, passed a few flowers, and eventually came to the unofficial herd path to Mt. Blue. We decided to go for it for funsies!

[9:38am - Mt. Blue Herd Path]

[9:55am - Mt. Blue Summit]

The herd path to Mt. Blue was delightfully loamy (as Sarah put it), with a soft pine footpath surrounded by green undergrowth. There were a couple confusing spots that were like a comical fun-house of pine trees, but there was always a way around (or through it). The trail was also lined with bluebead lilies (according to our apps). The "summit" was marked by a rock cairn - if there was a canister, we didn't see it. The herd path continued for a bit longer, I followed it for maybe another 100 ft until it started to descend, but I didn't catch a canister or any views. It was a fun side quest! Our return was quick and easy, and then we were back on the Beaver Brook Trail!

[10:01am - Beaver Brook Trail]

The Beaver Brook Trail descended to a col after provididng a nice view into the Jobuldunk Ravine, and we could also see Mt. Moosilauke towering ahead. The trail started to climb more moderately as Sarah and I began to reflect on our 4000-Footer journey - talking about favorite hikes, favorite peaks, ones that were awful, etc. The trail had a brief car-washy moment and then gave us a standing view of the Franconia Ridge on top of a rock before arriving at the Benton Trail junction!

[10:29am - Beaver Brook Trail/Benton Trail]

We got cruising once at the Benton Trail junction - the summit was only 0.4 miles away! The trail climbed moderately but soon entered the Alpine Zone and broke treeline.

[10:32am - Beaver Brook Trail/Enters Forest Protection Area]

[10:33am - Beaver Brook Trail/Alpine Zone Sign]

I was borderline emotional when we were officially above the trees - it was insanely beautiful. Sarah started to twirl and sing "the hiiiiills are aliveeeee, on Mt. Moosilaukeeeeee...." The grass, which was starting to brown for autumn, was dancing in the wind. We started to take a million photos, but reminded ourselves that the summit was within sight and the view simply will only get better.

[10:46am - Mt. Moosilauke Summit]

We continued on until we made it! We parked right before the summit proper to enjoy our snacks, take some photos, and just be silly. To our delight, there were only a few other people on the summit. The weather was absolutely perfect - chilly with a breeze, but not too much that we needed anything more than a wind breaker. There were wispy clouds high above, but views were completely clear. It was a DREAM. I found two USGS discs, we explored the area a bit, got our summit selfie, and eventually started packing it up around 11:10am when more people began to arrive (also we were still on a time crunch...).

[11:14am - Carriage Road]

We continued onto the Carriage Road, which was just beautiful. It easily descended past a few blueberry bushes (still with free snacks!) before flattening out. There were lovely views back to Mt. Moosilauke before the trail descended into the treeline with flat, rocky footing. 

[11:41am - South Peak Spur]

[11:47am - South Peak Summit]

We eventually hit the spur to South Peak and obviously opted to go for the final climb of the day. The trail was narrow, steep, rugged, and short! The view from the top was just wonderful, especially looking back at Mt. Moosilauke. I found a plaque off to the side dedicated to Penn Hale, "who loved this mountain and made possible the purchase of scenic trails on it for Dartmouth College." We couldn't stay long, though, since we had to get back for marching band...

[11:58am - Glencliff Trail]

We had a quick descent back to the Carriage Road and then turned onto our final trail of the day (although they've all been a part of the Appalachian Trail, sans the Mt. Blue herd path and the South Peak spur), the Glencliff Trail. The initial descent was steep, but very pretty with tree views to the right. We passed a talus field that we briefly scrambled up to get one last view (it was a little sketchy, not going to lie!) before continuing our descent.

Much lower down, the trail gradually eased up as we continued along and descended into a lush, green forest. We took bathroom breaks in this area (we had been forgetting to pee for the past couple of hours), and continued on, eventually coming to and crossing a few small brooks.

[1:27pm - Glencliff Trail/Hurricane Mountain Trail]

[1:35pm - Glencliff Trail Terminus]

We then made it to a series of meadowy fields with partial views - the final push! We traversed the field, following signs for the Appalachian Trail, and eventually followed a woods road out to High Street, just down the road from the Glencliff Trailhead!

[1:37pm - Glencliff Trailhead/End of Hike]

Once back at the car, we drove back to Beaver Brook, I blasted off (first to McDonalds) to Westford, and Sarah took a dip in the pond before we rendez-vous'd at the high school to teach band - we were both delusional with how sleepy we were. Worth it!

Step-by-Step

- Start hike on Beaver Brook Trail.

- At jct., take spur to Beaver Brook Shelter, return to trail.

- Continue on Beaver Brook Trail.

- At jct., turn right to continue on Beaver Brook Trail.

- At unmarked jct., turn right to hike Mt. Blue.

- At summit, turn around.

- Turn right to continue on Beaver Brook Trail.

- Summit Mt. Moosilauke via Beaver Brook Trail.

- At summit, continue on Carriage Road.

- At jct., follow sign to South Peak spur.

- Summit south peak, turn around.

- At terminus, turn left onto Glencliff Trail.

- Follow Glencliff Trail to other car on High Street.

Photo Album

[VAULT] Mt. Moosilauke via Gorge Brook (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Moosilauke (White Mountain National Forest)
Originally written and posted January 16th, 2023 at 8:31am.

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop

Distance: 8.2 miles

Elevation: 2506 feet
Time: N/A

Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers

The Hike

It's Martin Luther King Jr. day in 2023, and I'm finally getting over the pneumonia I've been dealing with the past week. I was going to go out for a "reintroduction" hike this morning in the Blue Hills since I've been feeling much better, but it's currently snowing and sticking so I will let that be a problem for later today once the sky is done! Instead, I'm cozied up next to the heater in the dining room and ready to reflect on one of my favorite days in the mountains - my first 4k hike up Mt. Moosilauke! I've been super interested in getting more involved in hiking the whites, and Gen suggested this hike, and I jumped at the chance! We drove up to her family's cottage in Raymond, NH the night before, got a good night's sleep, and made it to the trailhead just after sunrise - which was a beautiful drive!

 

Of course, by trailhead I mean the parking area down the road from the trailhead. We geared up in our old running shoes, normal set of sweats, and cotopaxi bags and windbreakers, and started our hike up the Ravine Lodge Road. We hiked with a more seasoned hiker for a little bit before he broke off ahead of us. The Ravine Lodge was really neat, but since it was September of 2020 it was very closed. From the Ravine Lodge we could see just where we were going, and it was in the clouds! Thankfully we didn't let that deter us. We followed the sign to "all trails" and crossed the Asquamchumauke River on the "Class of 1982 memorial bridge" - it was happening!

 

Our goal was to hike up the Gorge Brook Trail to the summit, then over on the Carriage Road/AT to South Peak, down the Carriage Road to the Snapper Trail, and then follow the Gorge Brook Trail/Ravine Lodge Rd back to the car. I don't remember too many small details besides the photos that I have. There were two log bridges on Gorge Brook, one was fantastic and one was flimsy, but we made it through unscathed! As we climbed the sun started poking through the clouds which was an excellent sign of things to come!

 

Looking back at the elevation profile, I understand why this is on the list of "best intro 4ks" - it never gets too steep, there's a great loop, and THE VIEWS - but more on that later. We hit the "last sure water" at 3300 feet (which meant nothing to us, this was before we had bladders and filters), and continued on! The forest after the Ross McKenny Forest plaque got dense and coniferous, which was absolutely beautiful. We also had our first views! The sky was still hazy, but clearing up by the second.

 

Neither Gen nor I had been in a true alpine zone before, just Mt. Monadnock, so when the trees started to get smaller we got super excited! The sky was also now a beautiful clear blue! The higher up we climbed the more views were to be had, and my jaw dropped once we made it over treeline - it was like we entered a whole new world! The summit area was filled with green, yellow, orange, and red grasses with an occasional scrubby bush. We practically ran to the summit we were so excited! The views from the top were breathtaking, and the wind was strong but survivable. We put our windbreakers on and found shelter behind some rocks for a snack time, and then we ran into the person we were hiking with from the parking area! He was doing the reverse hike of us today, and he heavily suggested we do the full loop.

 

We were so lucky to have this summit almost entirely to ourselves. After taking a billion photos, we continued our journey on the Carriage Road/AT over to the South Summit, following cairns and being introduced to the verbiage "fragile alpine vegetation." The grasses were dancing in the wind and the trail magnificently curved around the features of this mountain - just beautiful. We eventually dipped back into the woods on the AT, with the occasional view back to Moosilauke. The cairns were truly impressive looking back.

 

The trip to south peak was quick and scrubby, with an excellent view back toward the main peak and into the valleys below. Gen was super excited for our next stretch of the trail - the Carriage Road - because she sadly thought it would be a dirt/gravel/paved road. Nope, it was a rocky mess at a pretty consistent slope. Whoops! There were lovely views heading down the carriage road, at least. We then hit the junction with the Snapper Trail - our final stretch of new territory. This was another gentle trail, but it started to feel long as our bodies got tired. This was the first iteration of our strategy to keep the conversation going - Gen tells me all about the TV shows she's been watching.

 

Soon enough we were back on the Gorge Brook Trail, then the Ravine Lodge, and finally back at the car! And no more than two minutes later the man we’d been passing made it back too! I am so happy this was my first 4k - the trail was forgiving and the views INCREDIBLE. My feet were barking by the end in my ratty sneakers and my knees were on FIRE, but it was all worth it. We finished our day getting lunch at the Pemi Public House, on a reduced menu because restaurants were finally allowed to open back up since COVID started. My knees HURT whenever I tried to walk, but the chicken wings made up for it.

 

Step-By-Step

• Park on Ravine Road, walk to Ravine Lodge.

• Start hike on Gorge Brook Trail.

• At junction with Snapper Trail, continue on Gorge Brook Trail.

• At terminus, summit Mt. Moosilauke!

• Turn left to follow Carriage Road (AT).

• At next junction, follow signs for South Peak.

• Summit south peak, retrace steps.

• Back at the same junction, follow signage down Carriage Road.

• At next junction, turn left onto Snapper Trail.

• At terminus, merge onto Gorge Brook Trail.

• Follow Gorge Brook Trail back to Ravine Lodge, walk to car to complete hike.

 

"Mt. Moosilauke" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

        This bald dome, the dominant peak of the region, offers extensive views. An interesting loop with moderate grades from the east side, including a short side trip to unusual views from the South Peak, can be made using the first route above (to begin, see Gorge Brook Trail, p. 287). The second, a popular hike with a steady ascent from the southwest, also includes a side trip to the South Peak (see Glencliff Trail, p. 284). The third, a good, long loop with a wide variety of scenery, involves some road walking (to begin, see Glencliff Trail).

 

"Moosilauke Carriage Road" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

        This former carriage road climbs to the summit of Mt. Moosilauke from Breezy Point, a large clearing with good views, the former site of the Moosilauke Inn. Breezy Point Rd. (sign for Moosilauke Carriage Road) leaves NH 118 2.5 mi. north of its northern jct. with NH 25 (which is 1.0 mi. north of Warren village). Follow the road (paved for 0.5 mi. then gravel) for 1.5 mi. to the left-branching overgrown driveway of the former inn, where parking is available across from a Forest Protection Area sign. In 2016, the road was drivable to this point, though rough near the end; at times in the past it has not been maintained this far, making it necessary to park on the shoulder, lower on the road. Beyond the sign, the road becomes rougher, but you may be able to drive another 0.1 mi. and park to the left just before the trail sign, where mileages begin. Grades are easy to moderate, and the footing is generally good, although there are several wet stretches in the lower section. The trail is intermittently marked with DOC orange-and-black blazes. The upper part is above treeline and greatly exposed to the elements, so it can be dangerous in bad weather. The lower part, up to a barricade at 4.1 mi., receives heavy snowmobile use in winter.

        [...]. At 3.0 mi., Snapper Trail enters right.

        The next section of road has been widened and improved, eliminating what was formerly a washed-out section with poor footing. Starting at 3.5 mi., you have occasional views back to teh south and east. At 4.1 mi., the old road is blocked by a row of boulders to prevent further vehicular use. At 4.2 mi., Glencliff Trail enters from left; a few steps along Glencliff Trail, a spur trail leads left 0.2 mi. (80-ft ascent) to South Peak, a fine viewpoint. The old road, now part of the AT, continues along the ridge, with a narrow fringe of trees on each side, passing a short side path right to a viewpoint over the Gorge Brook Ravine. At 4.9 mi., the old road reaches treeline and, marked by cairns and low rock walls, ascends northeast along the windswept ridge to the summit. Descending from the summit, the trail leads briefly west then southwest down the broad, open ridge. In this section, hikers are urged to stay on the well-defined footway to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation.

 

"Gorge Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

        This trail runs from the end of Ravine Lodge Rd. to the summit of Mt. Moosilauke. This relatively easy trail affords some interesting views as it climbs.
        Leaving the turnaround at the end of Ravine Lodge Rd., 0.2 mi. from hiker parking, Gorge Brook Trail follows the gravel logging road (which is also the start of the Asquam-Ridge Trail) northeast for 100 yd. then turns left (sign) and left again, descending rather steeply past a recently build bunk house (left) to Baker River, where a road descending from Ravine Lodge joins from the left. The trail crosses the river on a footbridge and immediately turns left at 0.4 mi. from hiker parking, where a former section of Asquam-Ridge Trail diverged right. (This section of Asquam-Ridge Trail has been closed due to washouts from the 2011 storm). In a short distance, Gorge Brook Trail bears right where a path leads 70 yd. left to the Class of '97 Swimhole. In another 90 yd., at 0.5 mi., Hurricane Trail continues straight ahead, whereas Gorge Brook Trail turns sharply right uphill and follows a rock footway along Gorge Brook then crosses it on a bridge at 0.8 mi. On the far side, Gorge Brook Trail meets Snapper Trail and coincides with it, continuing straight ahead; the former section of Gorge Brook Trail that led to the right along the west bank of the brook has been closed due to damage from the 2011 storm.
        At 1.0 mi. Gorge Brook Trail diverges right from Snapper Trail and follows a relocated section, climbing well above the brook at easy grades. It rejoins the older route at 1.4 mi. and crosses back over the brook on a bridge at 1.5 mi. At 1.8 mi., the trail passes the memorial plaque for the Ross McKenney Forest; here, the trail swings right, away from the brook, and ascends east and northeast. At 2.3 mi., the trail turns left onto an old logging road, passes a cleared outlook to the south at 2.5 mi., then turns left off the road and winds uphill and moderate grades, passing more outlooks to the south and easy. At 3.5 mi., the trail reaches a shoulder covered with low scrub that affords a view to the summit ahead and soon breaks into the open on the grassy ridge crest. The trail continues to the base of the summit rocks then clambers up the last rocky 50 yd. to the summit. On the descent, although the trails are fairly well signed, the maze of beaten paths (including several abandoned trails) in this area might prove confusing in poor visibility. From the summit, Gorge Brook Trail descends briefly eastward down the rocks and then runs southeast along a grassy shoulder until the trail reaches the scrub. In this area, hikers are urged to stay on the well-defined footway to avoid trambling fragile alpine vegetation.

 

"Snapper Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

        This trail was originally cut as a downhill ski trail, but it was almost completely relocated in 1991 and features less steep grades and drier footing than before. The trail runs from a bridge on Gorge Brook Trail 0.8 mi. from hiker parking on Ravine Lodge Rd. to Moosilauke Carriage Road 2.1 mi. below the summit of Mt. Moosilauke. This makes possible a number of loop hikes from Ravine Lodge Rd.; particularly attractive is the circuit over the summit of Mt. Moosilauke that combines the Snapper Trail-Moosilauke Carriage Road with Gorge Brook Trail; these two routes are approximately equal in distance and difficulty. Snapper Trail begins at the first bridge over Gorge Brook on Gorge Brook Trail and in its lower section coincides with that trail. The combined trails immediately pass a closed section of Gorge Brook Trail on the right and ascend northwest along a tributary. At 0.2 mi. Gorge Brook Trail diverges right onto a relocated section, and Snapper Trail continues ahead, crossing the tributary at 0.3 mi. Snapper Trail swings left then right, crosses another tributary, then angles up the slope in a southwest direction at a moderate grade. At 0.9 mi., Snapper Trail crosses the old trail route and continues to its jct. with Moosilauke Carriage Road.