Showing posts with label Monadnock Redliner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Monadnock Redliner. Show all posts

Saturday, September 16, 2023

Mt. Monadnock via Dublin Trail (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Dublin Trail (Monadnock State Park)

Distance: 4.62 miles
Elevation: 1,686 feet
Time: 2 hours, 44 minutes (2 hours, 34 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Hiking Challenges: Monadnock Redliner


The Hike 
I wasn't too sure if this hike was going to happen for two reasons: 1) there was a possible hurricane heading towards New England and forecasts predicted everything from a little bit of wind to complete and utter devistation and 2) I was moderately hungover from margarita night last night. I did wake up at 5:00am to get ready, but checked the weather and saw that it would be raining all morning, so I happily went back to bed. Later on in the morning I saw it would clear up around noon, so I pulled myself up by my bootstraps, got in the car, and went for what would be my first ever afternoon hike of Mt. Monadnock!

The drive started very wet and cloudy, but as I traveled northwest I began to see clear skies and... sun? I was absolutely shocked. When I packed, I was ready for absolutely brutal weather, and reminded myself that all I needed to complete still was the Dublin Trail to Jim's Junction, so there was literally zero pressure to summit. I was in awe when I got that first great view of the mountain from NH-124 - completely devoid of clouds! The final drive on Old Troy Road was narrow and rugged, but no worse than the drive on Shaker Farm Rd. to the Marlboro Trail (I think that one was worse due to one large rock that scraped the bottom of my CRV). The parking lot had just a few cars in it, with room for MANY more, and I got my final Monadnock Redliners hike started!


Temperatures were in the delightful low-60s, with a crisp fall feeling. I truly was emotionally ready to hike in the rain so I was beyond delighted! I was very stuffy from playing with cats last night, the hangover was hanging over, my tummy was a wreck, but I was just thrilled to be in these woods (update from the future, I was stuffy from a cold, not cats). I didn't realize that this trail was part of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail, and there was a fun sign pointing to both Monadnock and Sunapee with their respective mileages. 



The Dublin Trail crosses Old Troy Road, enters the woods, and dips down to a stream traversed by a large boardwalk. I later read that there are a couple old-growth trees in this area, estimated to be 200-300 years old - I wish I read that earlier so I could have kept my eyes open! The trail ascends from the boardwalk and parallels a beautiful old stone wall, and then descends again. This stretch of trail will be absolutely stunning in peak foliage in a few weeks!


The trail joined an old road/logging cut/clearing. Right is clearly the trail, but left continued through brush. Isn't the "Eagle's Nest" off of this trail? I haven't yet found any of the "secrets of Mt. Monadnock," but I wondered if I could "stumble upon" this one. The trail continued to follow the road grade which was absolutely delightful, and remarkably dry (especially for what I was emotionally preparing for). The trail crosses a nicely constructed (dry) drainage crossing, and then begins to ascend along the dry drainage. 


I found myself pausing at times when bursts of wind would blow across the treetops. Thankfully no trees fell on me, but I was pelted with twigs a couple times. A very beautiful, yet ominous day. The trail passes a second, more obscure road-ish path at 0.6 miles, continuing my curiosity. I was really enjoying how alone I was, and the second I wrote that in my notes I passed a group of teens with my favorite group dynamic, the ones who are clearly scouts/athletes, the ones who are here for fun, and the ones who got dragged along. 


The trees continued to howl in the wind as the trail steepened. Every steep pitch was rewarded with a walking break which was well appreciated! I saw a herd path a little further up to a mossy rock that likely had a view 50 years ago... maybe that's the Eagle's Nest footpath? I couldn't see any distinct trails leading off the rock, and I was on a mission, so another time...


After this herd path, the trail continues to climb up a nice scramble as the woods begin to open up. The trail was rocky and rooty now, but rarely with poor footing. The scrambling eventually led to a rocky ridge with views straight up to the blue sky, and if you maneuver slightly off-trail you can get a very obstructed port-hole view of the Pumpelly Ridge. 


No more than 1/10th of a mile further down the trail there was another herd path that lead to a great view looking north. The clouds were stunning, the foreground was shockingly clear, and it was clear the trees were getting ready to change colors. 


The last steep pitch led to a long, fun, rollercoaster of a trail that trended on gaining elevation. Nothing was sketchy and the scrambles were fun. There were occasional "peek-a-views," with one last obstructed one towards the Pumpelly Ridge at 1.8 miles, before fully opening up. I couldn't beleive what a beautiful day it turned out to be! I really couldn't get over the cloud formations. Hurricane Lee knew what he was doing!


To no one's surprise, it was much windier higher up, so my dreadfully smelly windbreaker went on. The sun and clouds were doing a magnificent job diffusing the light, creating an extremely peaceful environment above treeline, juxtaposed with the fericuous winds. Soon enough in the distance I saw a sign I had been waiting for - Jim's Junction! I was so geekishly, and if I may say, adorably happy to have finally completed hiking all the trails on this magnificent mountain! I was definitely in my feelings, really proud of my accomplishment, and then I decided "whats a little more wind" and I continued toward the summit. After posting my hike photos to the "GRAND MONADNOCK" FaceBook group, I was told to look up who "Jim" was, and I found this post:

"Sunday, May 20th [2012], a group of folks gathered at the junction of the Dublin and Marlboro Trails, about 0.2 miles northwest of the summit, to dedicate and sign the junction in honor of Jim Johnson. Jim was a former Monadnock employee and volunteer who not only had adopted four trails on Monadnock, but also volunteered countless hours of his time to assist on other trails on Monadnock and Gap Mountain. Jim was also a Land Steward for the Society For The Protection of New Hampshire Forests and a volunteer and trail adopted for the Appalachian Mountain Club. Jim maintained the Greenleaf Trail on Mt. Lafayette and Star Lake Trail on Mt. Madison for the AMC. We lost Jim this past winter along with his companion (and Monadnock volunteer) Carol Raynsford. We wanted to remember our lost friends and keep their commitments of stewardship and appreciation for beautiful places alive on Monadnock and chose to remember Jim at the junction of the two trails he maintained and loved the most." John F. Bigil on Facebook.


I couldn't get over how stunning the final stretch of trail was. I've done this bit twice before, both from the Marlboro Trail, both in cloudy weather. The blue sky with patchy clouds behind the summit was breathtaking. I even found some microscopic blueberries! 


The strong tailwind helped me with the final push up to the summit, and WOW. I've never felt wind quite like this! I found the summit marker and did my best to take some photos, but the gusts made it hard to stay standing. There were two others up top with me hiding in the cracks between the rocks. The water in the pools were flying all about and the alpine grasses were in constant motion. Truly an incredible sight and experience. I was so grateful to have this beautiful mountain all to myself, on a Saturday!



Because of the wind I couldn't stay long. Mountain Forecast and Open Summit both said it was about 40mph winds with gusts up to 75mph, and a graphic from weather.gov supports that (https://www.weather.gov/media/pqr/wind/wind.pdf). I was joined by either a falcon or a hawk soaring above on my trip down, which was truly impressive considering the wind speeds. 



I realized my watch paused while on the summit, which isn't the end of the world, but was a bummer. My return trip was really enjoyable - I was able to turn off my brain and just enjoy being in the woods, while basking in my accomplishment. There were a few but scootches, but everything else was pretty easy. The forest got spooker down below on the old road grade, but I made my way back to the parking lot where my car was all alone. I changed at the car and used the porta potty when one last car pulled in for a sunset hike. My drive home was stunning with the sunset (and a car fire??), and I am just so happy I was able to make this hike happen!




Step-By-Step
- Start and end hike on the Dublin Trail.


"Dublin Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
        This trail, dating to about 1840 or easlier, ascends Mt. Monadnock from the north; it is the southernmost section of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greeenway. Dublin Trail is considered one of the less challenging routes up the mountain. From the flagpole in the village of Dublin, go west on NH 101 (Main St.). At 0.4 mi. bear left on Lake Rd., which becomes Old Marlborough Rd. At 2.5 mi. go left downhill on gravel Old Troy Rd. and continue to the parking area on the right at 4.4 mi. (Beyond the houses at 3.4 mi., the road becomes narrow and rougher; it may be impassable when muddy and is often closed in spring.) The trail, marked with white rectangles (and white Ds on the upper part), leaves the west side of the parking area near a kiosk and swings left, immediately crossing Old Troy Rd. (The north-bound Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway also leaves near the kiosk, diverging to the right.) The trail climbs briefly then descends gradually to cross a small brook. At 0.4 mi. it bears right onto a logging road, and in 150 yd. turns left off that road and ascends to join the original route of the trail at 0.8 mi. It then climbs more steeply to the top of the ridge, passing an unrealiable spring (may not always have water) at 1.2 mi. The path follows a ledgy ridge with occasional good views and short scrambles, passes another unreliable spring at the foot of a rock at 2.0 mi., and emerges above timerline. Marlboro Traol enters on the right at 2.2 mi. (sign: "Jim's Junction"), just beyond a prominent cap of rock on the left, a false summit called Dublin Peak. Dublin Trail continues upward at a moderate grade - in the open, amid interesting rock formations, with occasional short scrambles - to meet SMith Summit Trail and White Arrow Trail 75 yd. below the true summit. 
        Descending, Dublin Trail leaves the summit on the northwest side, continuing in that direction to a junction in 75 yd., where White Arrow Trail diverges sharply left (south), and Smith Summit Trail diverges left (west); look for white Ds and Ms and "Dublin Trail/Marlboro Tr," painted on the ledges.

Monday, August 21, 2023

Mt. Monadnock via Birchtoft & Spellman (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Birchtoft & Spellman (Monadnock State Park)

Hike Type: Loop w/ Spurs
Distance: 10.26 miles
Elevation: 2,356 feet
Time: 5 hours, 21 minutes (4 hours, 59 minutes)
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge; Monadnock Redliner; Rocks that Rock


The Hike
I'm officially back in Massachusetts, summer is winding down, band camp is over, and I'm feeling very ready to get back into regualar hiking, and what better way than to beat the life out of my body on Mt. Monadnock! I wanted to make sure I got the full experience of "getting back into it" so I was up at 4:45am, out the door at 5:05am, and as per tradition, made use of the Winchendon Cumberland Farms about an hour later. I PROUDLY did NOT overeat breakfast this time (even though I REALLY wanted to). Turns out, one sausage egg and cheese breakfast sandwich on a bagel from Cumbies is a perfect breakfast for hiking Monadnock. My tummy still felt weird, but that's just a part of hiking at this point. I made it to the parking lot around 6:45am and took my time getting ready by shattering my Nalgene and cleaning the floor of my car. It was 60-degrees out, cloudy, but the mountain was FINALLY not socked in and I anticipated some nice views! After using the portapotty, realizing I forgot my new shoes, and just enjoying the silence of a Monaday morning, I finally got started.


From the parking lot, there is a sign pointing to the Birchtoft Trail, which leads to another sign and an unsigned trail that actually leads to the trailhead. It took me a second to find the start of the Pond Trail, which I realized was on the opposite side of the small field to the Birchtoft Trail. The first part of the Pond Trail was truly lovely, providing occasional views of Gilson Pond and the mountain, and it crosses a bridge over the pond's dam right where the Ravine Trail branches off.



Turning right, there is a short walk through an overgrown clearing (only 10-15 feet) to the Ravine Trail, which is clearly a seldom used, but absolutely lovely trail that follows the Gilson Pond outflow. There were a few footbridges at the beginning and did get buggy if I stopped moving, but it wasn't too bad. The water was stained dark from the tree tannins, there were some beautiful mushrooms, and the trail eventually terminated at a remote campsite where someone was sleeping (I was trying to be quiet to not alert them). At the terminus, I turned around to retrace my steps.




Back on the pond trail I enjoyed another view of Gilson Pond, and notice the bugs were starting to pick up. And then more. And more. And more until I was nearly running with my arms flailing. Mid-sized flies everywhere landing all over me! I passed a dad and his son and the dad said "ah the deer flies are out!" - much less bothered than I was. At least they weren't biting. This torture continued until just before the terminus at the Birchtoft Trail, where I broke out my new headnet for the first time.


Even though I couldn't feel the flies biting, probably due to adrenaline, I was ITCHY. I kept the headnet on even though there weren't too many bugs on the Birchtoft Trail. That was absolutely brutal - I had never been swarmed by flies like that before. Curious if it was just my luck, if its the season, or if it was just the perfect timing.


The Birchtoft Trail was a welcomed change - relatively easy to moderate with nice old stone walls and the occasional criss-crossing cross-country ski trail. I then turned onto the Hinkley Trail to hike the half I missed last time when I was dehydrated, which was quite lovely. Very gentle, very soft, some nice bridges over streams, and all to myself! Hinkley led to Harling which was also lovely, but started to climb. I also realized I didn't rinse out my new bladder before using it and it tasted ICKY. I realized I had to deal with it, sadly.


The sun began to peep through the trees and illuminated a red eft almost perfectly. I also passed a big pile of berry-filled bear poop while dodging spider webs. I couldn't help but notice that my legs were really feeling the break I took from hiking, but I'd be whipped back into shape soon enough.


At the end of the Harling Trail I turned left to do the walk of shame to get the little bit of the White Dot Trail I was still missing between Cascade Link and White Cross, and then I turned around and followed Cascade Link all the way up to the junction with the infamous Spellman Trail. There were lovely cascades on the Cascade Link Trail, with many many little frogs and daddy long legs.


Then it was time... I made it to the Spellman Trail trailhead. I knew this was the steepest way up Mt. Monadnock, and I'm still emotionally recovering from my jaunt up Middle Sister on the Carter Ledge Trail. The Spellman trail started as a truly beautiful walk in the woods, but quickly got started on a steep scramble up some large rocks, BUT then provided a short walking break over a stream and waterfall.


After this is when the party really got going - the trail steepened and the scrambling began. Thankfully, the scrambling is quickly rewarded with great views, even if they were a little hazy. There were a fine amount of blazes - whenever I wasn't sure where to go next I was able to find a blaze pointing me in the right direction. It was near the top of the scramble that I realized this trail truly wasn't too bad. It was mostly scrambles instead of scary slabs, and that was perfect! The trail mellows out and dips back into the woods near a lovely mossy stream and moderately continues to climb. I would 100% tackle this trail again!




Now I'm back on the Pumpelly Trail for the first time since maybe 2016? I forgot how beautiful it was. I also forgot how LONG it was! The trail itself is absolutely stunning, passing wide, sweeping views, small pools, and gentle meadows with fuzzy grasses. Unfortunately, there is a steep descent followed by a steep ascent before the summit that I was not mentally prepared for.


Soon after the Spellman junction I stumbled upon a rock I forgot I was looking for - the Sarcophagus! Further along, I was disappointed but not surprised to see that I had missed blueberry season, but there were plenty other (likely non-edible) berries everywhere else! The summit was in sight, and my legs were turned to jello. The final push was rough for my unseasoned legs, and the very last bit of the trail was quite unclear and basically became "choose your own adventure." I proudly made it to the summit, booped the USGS marker, and took a nice break.




My return trip started in dramatic agony with my feet protesting every step I took (stretching is important, kids!). From the summit to the Spellman Trail junction was as expected and went fairly quickly, but there was an ascent to "Town Line Peak" (I believe) after that that I was not prepared for and it wiped me out. I started passing more people as the day went on, one of which was an older gentleman who lost his iPhone - sending thoughts and prayers!


After Town Line Peak, the Pumpelly Trail became much more gentle and enjoyable, with fantastic views of Moandnock.


The Cascade Link's upper reaches are basically a continuation of Pumpelly - open slaps and wonderful views, but then it leads to a tricky scramble, then deep mud, but then another open slab with a great view! I noticed I was starting to cramp up (naturally) so I chugged my nasty water and continued on.


The trail opened up again before diving into the woods one last time, where it followed a lovely mossy stream. Once 11:30am hit I started passing even more people (like clockwork) as I made my way back to the Birchtoft Trail for my final descent. I got a few more mosquito bites, but not enough to warrant the head net again. I made my way to the Hinkley junction and I was completely wiped and recently out of water (still in better shape than my last trip around Monadnock!).


I finally arrived to Gilson Pond, delighted to see that the flies were done with me, and SUFFERED in the final uphill from the trailhead to the parking lot. There were only a few other cars that joined me in the parking lot that I originally had to myself. I did my quick change out of my disgustingly wet clothes and started my return trip... to Cumbies! I only have one trail left on Mt. Monadnock - the Dublin Trail!


Step-By-Step
- Park at Gilson Pond Day Use parking area.
- Follow signs for "Birchtoft Trail."
- At remote camping site parking area, enter Pond Trail (blue discs) on right side.
- Follow Pond Trail (blue discs).
- At next jct., turn right after bridge onto Ravine Trail (blue disc/unblazed).
- At Ravine Trail terminus, turn around.
- Back at Pond Trail, turn right and continue loop.
- At terminus, turn sharply right onto Birchtoft Trail (red rectangles).
- At next trail jct. (not XC trails), turn left onto Hinkley Trail (yellow rectangles).
- At next jct., turn right onto Harling Trail (unblazed).
- At terminus, turn left onto Cascade Link (yellow discs).
- At terminus, continue left onto White Dot (white dots).
- At jct. with White Cross, turn around.
- Rejoin Cascade Link (yellow discs).
- At jct., with Spellman Trail, turn left onto Spellman Trail (white rectangles).
- At terminus, turn left onto Pumpelly Trail (sometimes white Ps).
- Summit Mt. Monadnock.
- Return on Pumpelly Trail.
- At jct. with Cascade Link, turn right onto Cascade Link (yellow discs).
- At jct. with Birchtoft Trail, turn left onto Birchtoft Trail (red rectangles).
- Return to car.


“Birchtoft Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
This trail, opened in 1966, begins near the state-owned Gipson Pond Area, on Dublin Rd. at the eastern base of Mt. Monadnock, and is marked with red rectangles. In combination with Cascade Link and Red Spot and Pumpelly trails, Birchtoft provides a pleasant less used route up the mountain from the east. A new campground opened at Gilson Pond in 2010.
    From the north, approach the trailhead from NH 101 in Dublin. From the town center, follow NH 101 west 0.3 mi. then turn left (south) onto Upper Jaffrey Rd. at a state park sign. Follow this road (which becomes Dublin Rd.) 3.5 mi. to the Gilson Pond entrance to the right. To approach from the south, follow NH 124 west 2.3 mi. from its junction with NH 137 and US 202 in Jaffrey then turn right (north) onto Dublin Rd. at a sign for Monadnock State Park. Follow Dublin Rd. past the main state park entrance on the left at 1.3 mi. from NH 124 and continue to the Gilson Pond Area on the left at 2.9 mi. Drive to the tollbooth and park in the designated lot beyond on the right. (This parking lot is not plowed in winter; winter parking is available at a lot on the right before the tollbooth).
    From the south end of the summer parking lot, a connecting park (sign for Birchtoft Trail and Pond Loop Trail) descends 125 yd. through the woods to a gravel campground road. Birchtoft Trail begins at a kiosk across the road, at the left edge of a small field, while the north segment of Pond Loop Trail (marked with blue disks) begins at the right edge of the field. Birchtoft Trail descends to Gilson Pond and skirts the east and south shores; 100 yd. beyond the kiosk, side paths lead right to ledges with beautiful views across the pond to Mt. Monadnock. At 0.3 mi. the south segment of Pond Loop Trail diverges right (west).
    (Pond Loop Trail is a path 0.8 mi. long that runs around Gilson Pond, passing several points with views across the pond. On the east side of the dam along the north segment of Pond Loop Trail, 0.2 mi. west of its eastern junction with Birchtoft Trail, lightly used Ravine Trail diverges right. Ravine Trail descends an overgrown bank to a sign, crosses a bridge over the pond’s outlet brook, and follows the brook north through an attractive hemlock ravine. At 0.3 mi. from Pond Loop Trail, Ravine Trail ends at a T junction with a path that leads to remote park campsites.)
    From this junction Birchtoft Trail swings left and ascends easily through several turns, crossing two ski trails. Hinkley Trail enters on the left from Poole Rd. at 1.0 mi. Birchtoft Trail soon begins to climb at moderate grades, crossing another ski trail at 1.2 mi., and continues ascending to Cascade Link, 0.5 mi. north of White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring. For the summit, follow Cascade Link 40 yd. and then continue ahead on Red Spot Trail where Cascade Link turns right.

“Hinkley Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
This pleasant, lightly used trail, marked with yellow rectangles, leads from Poole Rd., 0.2 mi. east of the state park headquarters gatehouse entrance, to Birchtoft Trail, 0.9 mi. west of the Gilson Pond trailhead. Its northern section was recently extended to provide loop hike possibilities from the new campground at Gilson Pond. The trail sign is set back from the road, although a yellow blaze is visible. Because there is no parking at the start of the trail, hikers should leave their vehicles in the main lot in the state park and walk 0.2 mi. back down Poole Rd. Once found, Hinkley Trail is easy to follow. From Poole Rd. it leads north at easy grades with minor ups and downs. At about 0.4 mi., it approaches small, attractive Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook) on the right and follows the water, climbing gradually and swinging left to the junction with Harling Trail, which diverges on a woods road to the left at 0.6 mi. Here, Hinkley Trail turns right onto the woods road, crosses the brook on a culvert, and in 10 yd. turns left off the road. After another 50 yd., a ski trail diverges left at XC junction #18. Hinkley Trail descends gradually, crosses bridges over two small brooks, and ascends to meet Birchtoft Trail.


“Harling Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Lightly used, unblazed Harling Trail connects Hinkley Trail, 0.6 mi. north of Poole Rd., with Cascade Link 0.1 mi. north of its junction with White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring. Harling Trail was opened in 1914 by E.J. Harling, the second fire warden on the summit. 

From Hinkley Trail, Harling Trail ascends gradually west on an old woods road, passing junctions with two ski trails on the left and then another on the right at 0.3 mi. It soon reaches another junction with a ski trail on the left (sign: “XC 14”). Here, Harling Trail turns right and in 20 yd. turns left and begins climbing steadily. The trail swings left as it reaches Cascade Link; from here, follow Cascade Link right for Red Spot, Spellman, and Pumpelly Trails, or left for White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring.


“Cascade Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
This trail, cut in 1921 by AMC’s Worcester Chapter, runs between White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring and Pumpelly Trail, angling upward, south to north. Combined with Pumpelly Trail, it forms an interesting descent route from the summit to the State Park headquarters. When adding either Spellman or Red Spot Trail, it offers the most varied ascents from the east side of the mountain.

    Cascade Link, marked with yellow disks, starts at White Dot Trail, just above the short side loop to Falcon Spring. It runs northeast, descends slightly, and rises to the junction with Harling Trail on the right at 0.1 mi. Then Cascade Link swings left and rises gentle, but on rocky terrain, through hardwood forest. It passes a side path that leads 30 yd. right to a small cascade on Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook), and at 0.3 mi. it crosses this mossy brook before climbing gradually over ledges in thick woods. At 0.5 mi. Cascade Link turns left at Birchtoft Trail enters on the right. In another 40 yd., Cascade Link turns right as Red Spot Trail continues ahead Pumpelly Ridge and Pumpelly Trail. Immediately after the right turn, Cascade Link crosses an old east-west stone wall then climbs moderately over ledges in spruce woods. At 0.7 mi., steep Spellman Trail leaves left, and Cascade Link climbs along the east bank of a small brook to a spot where the brook rises, close to the boundary between Dublin and Jaffrey. From there, prominent cairns mark Cascade Link over open ledges. Near the top of the ledges, the route passes a rock formation (somewhat obscured by trees) on the left known as the Imp, which resembles a human profile. Cascade Link then arrives at a saddle on Pumpelly Ridge before ending at Pumpelly Trail. (Pumpelly Trail is a scenic route to the summit with many outlooks and is marked with cairns.)


“Spellman Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
This trail leaves Cascade Link 0.7 mi. from White Dot Trail and in its middle section makes the steepest climb on the mountain, leading up Pumpelly Trail just north of the rectangular boulder known as the Sarcophagus. (Caution: Spellman Trail is best used for ascend rather than descent and should be avoided in wet or icy conditions.)
    Spellman Trail starts out at an easy grade and soon swings left before a short, steep pitch. From there, it runs across a cliff top across a small brook then swings right and eases again briefly. It then ascends very steeply over boulders and ledges that require a fair amount of scrambling and emerges in the open with excellent views back to the east, including the skyline of Boston on a clear day. White rectangles mark the route on the rocks, requiring some care to follow. At the top of the upper steep scramble the grade eases, and then path enters spruce woods and climbs at a moderate grade to Pumpelly Trail, where there are trail signs and trail names painted on the ledges.

“Pumpelly Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
This it the longest and most strenuous direct route to the summit of Mt. Monadnock, but the upper half is very scenic. It was laid out in 1884 by Raphael Pumpelly, a professor, geologist, archaeologist, adventurer, and summer resident of Dublin. […].
    […]. At 3.0 mi. Cascade Link enters on the left, ascending the Monadnock State Park Headquarters trail network on the eastern slopes. Stay on Pumpelly Trail to pass near the bare top of Town Line Peak (2,884 ft.; near the boundary of Dublin and Jaffrey) and descend to a junction at 3.7 mi., where steep Spellman Trail meets Pumpelly Trail on the left. Just beyond this point, the trail climbs past the Sarcophagus, a huge rectangular boulder on the right. From here the trail, marked by large cairns, runs mostly on open ledge, where many glacial striations are plainly visible. It soon passes a small alpine meadow and at 4.0 mi. reaches a junction with Red Spot Trail on the left (large cairn and sign). (Red Spot Trail connects Pumpelly Trail with Cascade Link on the lower east slope of the mountain.) Pumpelly Trail drops into a little gap with steep, ledgy walls then climbs out and comes completely into the open. It now takes a winding route over steep ledges to the summit at 4.4 mi., passing several small alpine pools; follow the cairns carefully in this section.
    Descending, the trail runs nearly due east; look for a ledge with “Pumpelly Trail” and a large white arrow painted on it. A few cairns lie along the first 200 yd., and hikers must take care to locate the first one. Many of the cairns are rather small, and this trail could be difficult to follow down from the summit in the fog.

Sunday, June 25, 2023

Mt. Monadnock via Parker, Bald, & Hinkley (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Parker, Bald, & Hinkley (Monadnock State Park)

Hike Type: Loop w/ Spurs
Distance: 10.54 miles
Elevation: 2,664 feet
Time: 6 hours, 21 minutes (5 hours, 27 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: Monadnock Redliner


The Hike
My most recent return to Mt. Monadnock started like any jaunt to the mountain would - with intense tummy cramps and absolutely destroying the Whichendon Cumberland Farms! The morning was mostly overcast, but the clouds began to part as the sun began to rise which was absolutely beautiful. At one point the only cloud was the cloud hugging the mountain as it was illuminated in a stunning pink. I was definitely grateful for the unique view, but also definitely manifesting the clouds parting by the time I head to the top. 


My shoes were still wet from yesterday's sweat and there were only two other cars at the trailhead. I put my pre-paid parking pass on the windsheild and got my adventure started! The vegetation was lush around the reservoir, which I guess is nice, but it obstructed the views of the mountain. The Parker Trail started off foggy and wet with a few red efts. I wrote in my notes that my pack was heavy with 4.5L of liquids, but I would later learn that that was by no means enough (oops). Thankfully the bugs were still asleep, and there were a few moments of mud on the trail, but all was avoidable. 


Continuing on the Parker Trail I slowly became a spiderweb - clearly I was the only fool hiking on this indirect trail on a weekday morning. There was a stream crossing over a footbridge near a massive glacial erratic... and then my stomach hit. It was time to christen the woods of Monadnock State Park... again. I nearly destroyed a spider's home but thanks to the fog and moisture I was able to see it, so I guess that was a win!


The fog thickened after the junction with Cliff Walk, which created a very spooky ambiance in the woods. The one loud songbird and couple of woodpeckers definitely added to the spook as well. The guidebook describes an "obscure path to a viewpoint on little Mtn.," which I found relatively easily. It had a very narrow footbed with soaking wet vegetation on either side. I'm sure the view would have been nice, but I only got to see the inside of a cloud. There were LOTS of baby blueberries, though! Upon returning to the Parker Trail, I noticed there's a "Parker Trail" sign right at the spur path junction.


There was a slight descent which led to the terminus of the Parker Trail, where I saw my first person of the day who was blasting 80's funk music on his phone. The return trip to the Cliff Walk junction was relatively quick and easy, with stunning rays of light shining through the clouds. 


The Cliff Walk truly gets right to business with steep climbing that leads to a ladder which was sketchy, slippery, wet, and covered in spider webs. The trail continued to steeply climb up to Hello Rock, where the clouds parted just for a moment so I could enjoy the view, wring out my shirt, and stare into the void. I was advanced sweaty. 


There were more baby blubes at Hello Rock, and the Hello Rock Trail was a lovely, gentle rollercoaster through a soft footbed shrouded in fog. There was a light breeze, which basically meant it was raining with the water falling off of the canopy. I was starting to develop a headache, which was a bummer, so I slowed my pace and began to drink more water. 


The clouds continued to lift and thin once I arrived at the Halfway House clearing and then I made my way up to the Thoreau Trail, which was in similar character to all of the Halfway House area trails - beautiful, soft, a little confusing, and beautiful. The crest of the trail had some slippery rocks which was humbling, but I survived! The Thoreau Trail terminates at Thoreau's Seat, and then I wiggled my way down to the Do Drop Trail.


I couldn't help but appreciate how ridiculously I was steaming on these trails. The Do Drop Trail was STEEP, which required some slow going and downwards scrambling (similar to the Great Pasture Trail, but more organized). I did get off-trail at one point, and only figured it out becuase it looked flat out dangerous to descend the way I was going. I grabbed onto some thin trees to help me down, which in turn shook more and more water onto my already saturated body. 


Do Drop dropped down (haha) to the Side Foot Path, which led to my final trail in the area - the Noble Trail. The Noble Trail was thigh steep - lots steps instead of a slope. There were beautiful muted greens along the moss-covered trail, and I had the delightful sensation of my right foot suctioning to the insole of my boot because it was so comically wet. 


Noble Trail terminates at the Cliff Walk, and then it was a short hike with gentle inclines (and lots of wet trees) up to Bald Rock, where I took a lovely long break. There is a magnificent view of the upper reaches of Mt. Monadnock from Bald Rock, and I was lucky enough to catch it as clouds rolled over the top which made for a very relaxing show. I got to enjoy my leftover pizza, fully wring out my sopping wet clothes, and mourned the screen of my camera, as some moisture got inside and I couldn't see anything anymore - exciting!



Leaving Bald Rock I had a decision to make - I know I needed to wiggle my way over to the Old Ski Path, but I couldn't decide if I wanted to go summit. Pros: self-gratification and possibility of pretty views; Cons: ouch, rocks could be slippery. I continued on, procrastinating my decision. Most of the rock slabs had a good grip, but there were some on the Smith Connecting Trail that were wet and slippery. There was a really lovely stream crossing, and I got to pee with a stunning view toward Massachusetts. 


When I made it to the White Dot/Cross junction, I decided to go for the summit and reminded myself that I can turn around at any time, and I made the right choice! It was completely dry once above the trees with stunning views. There would be an occasional cloud that rolled through, which just added to the experience. The summit itself was surprisingly uncrowded, but I guess it wasn't even 10:00am yet. I was a little stressed about the slabs going down, but I let myself take a nice long break before worrying about that. 


I eventually got a move on when the flies started to wake up, and the slabs were no problem. My long, roundabout return trip took quite some time, and I passed at least 100 people. My favorite person I passed is the one who said "do I really have to go back down that???". I was definitely swimming upstream while descending White Dot, but it was part of the trail I still needed! There were some tricky sections on the descent with one fun butt slide, and I did worry that I missed the Old Ski Path, but eventaulyl I hit a shoulder and found it (just after watching someone who dragged their girlfriend on this hike have a panic attack due to steepness). 


I quickly learned that "old" is the key word of the Old Ski Path - it was very wet and overgrown, but thankfully always with a clear footpath. If my feet weren't already soaked, they would have been after this one. I was also blessed with the tremendous thumping of a grouse's wings on this path, which took at least a couple years off of my life. I only needed this trail as an out-and-back, so I felt like I was turning a jack-in-a-box on the return, just waiting for the grouse to scare the life out of me again. Thankfully, we did not bother each other for a second time. I did slip on a rock and almost fall, but we'll look past that.



The rest of my trip down White Dot was more swimming upstream, so I was very relieved to finally make it to Cascade Link. Where everyone turned right, I turned left to connect to Red Spot (forgetting that I also needed the section that connects to White Cross... ugh. Also unfortunately, I started cramping up in the upper section of Cascade Link nearer Red Spot, so much that I made the rough choice to turn around and get the rest another day. For whatever reason I didn't decide to filter water at the lovely stream all over this trail, and instead to just suffer in sweat. 


I did decide to finish my hike with the Harling and Hinkley Trails, which I was lucky to enjoy all by  myself, and some biting insects. There were some blowdowns on both H trails, which gave my cramping body a run for its money. The Harling trail was rather uneventful, but the Hinkley Trail followed a lovely stream that carved into the bedrock and was the home of many frogs and mossy cascades. 


The Hinkley Trail terminates at Poole Road, the entrance road for the pain parking area, and I had a cruel and unusual uphill walk to get back to the parking lot. To add insult to injury, a ranger stopped me as I walked in and asked me to pay, as if I didn't look like I was fighting for my life for the past 10 miles. Thankfully, he didn't give me any troubles once I told him I already went up and down the mountain. 


Back at my car, I chugged a warm gatorade and any liquids I could find, carefully changed my clothes to avoid cramping, and sped back to the Winchendon Cumbies to add some sustinace back to my body. Even with the pain and the orphaned trails, it was another great day on Monadnock!

Step-By-Step
- Part at Park HQ. 
- Start hike by walking up and behind the camp store.
- After picnic pavillion, turn left onto road along Poole Reservoir.
- Officially begin hike on Parker Trail, continuing straight.
- Hike Parker Trail to its terminus at Old Toll Road (at the height of land just before the road, turn right and follow unofficial trail to view).
- At Old Toll Road, turn around and retrace steps.
- At Cliff Walk junction, turn right onto Cliff Walk.
- At next junction, turn left onto Hello Rock Trail.
- At terminus, continue straight/veer slightly right onto Thoreau Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto Cliff Walk.
- At next junction, turn left onto Do Drop Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Side Foot Trail.
- At next junction, turn right onto Noble Trail. 
- At terminus, turn left onto Cliff Walk.
- Summit Bald Rock.
- Continue onto Smith Connecting Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto White Cross Trail.
- At terminus, continue straight onto White Dot Trail.
- Summit Mt. Monadnock.
- Follow White Dot Trail down the mountain.
- Turn left onto Old Ski Path.
- At terminus, turn around.
- At terminus, turn left back onto White Dot Trail.
- At next junction, turn left onto Cascade Link Trail.
- At next junction, turn right onto Harling Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Hinkley Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Poole Rd. 
- Return to car.


“Parker Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Parker Trail, opened in 1911 by Mr. and Mrs. G.H. Parker, begins at the bridge over the outlet brook below the spillway at the south end of Poole Reservoir, near the picnic area at Monadnock State Park Headquarters. It heads west across the south slope of the mountain to Old Toll Rd. and connects numerous loop hikes. Blazed with yellow rectangles, Parker Trail maintains a mostly gentle grade and provides easy walking through mature woods. 

To reach the east end of the route, follow signs for Parker Trail along an access road leading 0.1 mi. south from a pavilion near the park headquarters to the picnic area on the east side of the reservoir. Turn right here and follow a grassy road along a fence at the south end of the reservoir, passing a trail sign, and descend to a bridge over the outlet brook below the dam and spillway. Mileages begin here. 

The trail ascends moderately, crossing over two stone walls, and then becomes nearly level. At 0.6 mi. Lost Farm Trail diverges right for the upper part of Cliff Walk. Parker Trail continues at mostly easy grades, paralleling a stone wall on the left for some distance. It loops briefly out of the right past a large boulder to cross Ainsworth Brook on a new bridge, crosses two more stone walls, and then passes Hunter’s Rock, another large boulder, on the right at 1.0 mi. At 1.2 mi. Cliff Walk diverges right (sign). Parker Trail continues a gradual ascent, passes through a small wooded pass called the Notch, bears right where an obscure path to a viewpoint on Little Mtn. diverges left, and descends slightly to join Old Toll Rd. 0.6 mi. above NH 124 and 0.6 mi. below the Half Way House Site. 


“Cliff Walk” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This is one of the finest scenic trails on Mt. Monadnock, leading from Parker Trail, 0.3 mi. east of Old Toll Rd., to Bald Rock. It runs along the south and east edges of the south ridge, passing several splendid viewpoints and historical points of interest. Cliff Walk is marked with white diamonds on the trees and white Cs on the rocks, and in places it is steep and rough. Cut in the 1890s, it was a popular route for guests staying at the Half Way House. 

From Parker Trail, Cliff Walk ascends briefly northeast then swings left and climbs a steep pitch (with a ladder). It ascends moderately, with some steep pitches and occasional short descents, west and north through woods to Hello Rock on the right at 0.6 mi., where there is a good view east. The path drops into a wooded col, where Hello Rock trail (sign) diverges left, and then it climbs northeast, reaching the fine outlook known as Point Surprise at 0.7 mi. At the spot where Point Surprise Trail (sign) departs on the left, Cliff Walk dips into the woods behind the outlook and continues across the flank of the mountain past a side path on the right (sign) at 0.8 mi. that leads 20 yd. to the viewpoint known as What Cheer Point. Cliff Walk then descends briefly to Black-Throated Blue Point (another outlook) before climbing to the viewpoint called Ainsworth’s Seat. Past this site, the route descends slightly to a junction at 1.0 mi., where Lost Farm Trail joins from the right. (An excellent viewpoint sits 15 yd. down this trail.) Here, Cliff Walk swings left and climbs steeply to the ledge known as Thoreau’s Seat (sign and view). Just beyond, Thoreau Trail (sign) leaves on the left. Cliff Walk soon turns left (west) again by the wooded ledge called Emerson’s Seat. It dips and then climbs rough ledges, passing Do Drop Trail (sign) on the left at 1.2 mi. Then it swings north and crosses an outcropping with a good view south. In another 60 yd., Noble Trail (sign) diverges left. (Hikers can reach a ledge with good views west and up to the summit of Mt. Monadnock by following this trail for 40 yd.) Cliff Walk continues north, climbing past a short sidepath on the left that leads to the boulders and crevices of the geologic feature known as the Wolf’s Den (see p. 37), and then past another path leading to the Graphite Mine (see p. 37). The trail then climbs steeply up ledges to the summit of Bald Rock, where Smith Connecting Link continues ahead (north). (Hedgehog Trail, which used to diverge left here, is now closed.) Visitors can see fine views in all directions here, including the summit of Mt. Monadnock to the north.


“Thoreau Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Opposite the junction of Hello Rock Trail and Point Surprise Trail, Thoreau Trail (D4) diverges left, climbing moderately and then gradually through spruce woods to Cliff Walk a few yards above the ledge called Thoreau’s Seat.


“Do Drop Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Do Drop Trail (D4) begins on Slide Foot Trail 0.1 mi. from the Half Way House Site and makes a rough steep climb to Cliff Walk.


“Noble Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Noble Trail (C4) begins on SLide Foot Trail 0.2 mi. from the Half Way House Site and ascends to Cliff Walk, about 0.1 mi. north of Do Drop Trail.


“Smith Connecting Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

The bare peak on Mt. Monadnock’s south ridge at the upper terminus of Cliff Rock is Bald Rock; its high point is a sharp-sided boulder inscribed “Kiasticuticus Peak.” From Bald Rock, Smith Connecting Link (C4), marked with yellow Ss, descends a short distance north over ledges, and at 0.2 mi. reaches Four Spots, a trail junction. (Here, the park that forks left is the eastern end of Amphitheatre Trail, described below, connecting with Side Foot, White Arrow, and Smith Summit Trails.) Smith Connecting Link continues straight ahead at this junction and ascends moderately through woods and then over ledges to White Cross Trail, 0.1 mi. below its upper junction with White Dot Trail. (Smith Connecting Link once continues across White Dot Trail to Red Spot Trail, but that section is no longer maintained). 


“White Dot Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This popular trail, marked with round white paint spots, starts at the parking area near the Monadnock State Park Headquarters at the west end of Poole Rd. It was blazed in 1900 by N.E. Paine, his three songs, and William Royce. 

From the south, reach this major trailhead by following NH 124 west 2.3 mi. from its junction with NH 137 and US 202 in Jaffrey then turning right (north) on Dublin Rd. at a sign for Monadnock State Park. Drive 1.3 mi. on Dublin Rd. and turn left at the main state park entrance onto Poole Rd. Drive 0.7 mi. to the gatehouse and park in the parking lot on the left. The trail starts farther west along Poole Rd., diverging to the right at a prominent sign and passing to the left of a small visitor center. From the north, approach the trailhead from NH 101 in Dublin. From the flagpole in the village center, follow NH 101 west 0.3 mi. then turn left (south) onto Upper Jaffrey Rd. at a state park sign. Follow this road (which becomes Dublin Rd.) 5.1 mi., passing the Gilson Pond entrance on the right 3.5 mi. from NH 101, and turn right onto Poole Rd. at the main state park entrance. 

White dot trail directly ascends the mountain and is quite steep in its middle section and on the summit cone, with slippery ledges, some of which requires scrambling. This is perhaps the most heavily used trail on Mt. Monadnock. It begins on a broad woods road, descends slightly, crosses a small brook, then ascends moderately. At 0.5 mi. White Cross Trail splits off to the left on a section that was formerly known as Spruce Link. White Cross and White Dot trails run roughly parallel from here and rejoin high up on the mountain White Dot Trail is steeper but only 0.1 mi. shorter than White Cross.

White Dot Trail climbs gradually through the woods to a junction with Cascade Link (right) just above Falcon Spring (on the left via a short side loop path) at 0.7 mi. The section of White Cross Trail formerly leading to the left here has been closed. White Dot Trail goes straight at the junction just above Falcon Spring, ascends teh steep ridge over rock steps and ledges that may be slippery when wet, and emerges at 1.1 mi. on the semi-open plateau near treeline. It passes Old Ski Path, which descends right (north-east) 0.2 mi. and 150 ft. to Red Spot Trail. White Dot Trail then climbs on ledges through meager evergreens. At 1.6 mi., on the flat southeast shoulder, White Dot Trail crosses the abandoned northern section of Smith Connecting Link. White Cross Trail rejoins on the left at 1.7 mi. White Dot Trail then dips into a spruce grove before continuing 0.3 mi. up steep, slanting ledges to the summit. 

Descending, White Dot Trail drops off the summit to the southeast; look for “To State Park HQ” and a large white dot and cross painted on a ledge.


“Cascade Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This trail, cut in 1921 by AMC’s Worcester Chapter, runs between White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring and Pumpelly Trail, angling upward, south to north. Combined with Pumpelly Trail, it forms an interesting descent route from the summit to the state park headquarters. When adding either Spellman Trail or Red Spot Trail, it offers the most varied ascents from the east side of the mountain.

Cascade Link, marked with yellow disks, starts at White Dot Trail, just above the short side loop to Falcon Spring. It runs northeast, descends slightly, and rises to the junction with Harling Trail on the right at 0.1 mi. Then Cascade Link swings left and rises gently, but on rocky terrain through hardwood forest. It passes a side path that leads 30 yd. right to a small cascade on Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook), and at 0.3 mi. it crosses this mossy brook before climbing gradually over ledges in thick woods. At 0.5 mi. Cascade Link turns left as Birchtoft Trail enters on the right. [...].


“Harling Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Lightly used, unblazed Harling Trail connects Hinkley Trail, 0.6 mi. north of Poole Rd., with Cascade Link 0.1 mi. north of its junction with White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring. Harling Trail was opened in 1914 by E.J. Harling, the second fire warden on the summit. 

From Hinkley Trail, Harling Trail ascends gradually west on an old woods road, passing junctions with two ski trails on the left and then another on the right at 0.3 mi. It soon reaches another junction with a ski trail on the left (sign: “XC 14”). Here, Harling Trail turns right and in 20 yd. turns left and begins climbing steadily. The trail swings left as it reaches Cascade Link; from here, follow Cascade Link right for Red Spot, Spellman, and Pumpelly Trails, or left for White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring.


“Hinkley Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This pleasant, lightly used trail, marked with yellow rectangles, leads from Poole Rd., 0.2 mi. east of the state park headquarters gatehouse entrance, to Birchtoft Trail, 0.9 mi. west of the Gilson Pond trailhead. Its northern section was recently extended to provide loop hike possibilities from the new campground at Gilson Pond. The trail sign is set back from the road, although a yellow blaze is visible. Because there is no parking at the start of the trail, hikers should leave their vehicles in the main lot in the state park and walk 0.2 mi. back down Poole Rd.

Once found, Hinkley Trail is easy to follow. From Poole Rd. it leads north at easy grades with minor ups and downs. At about 0.4 mi., it approaches small, attractive Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook) on the right and follows the water, climbing gradually and swinging left to the junction with Harling Trail, which diverges on a woods road to the left at 0.6 mi. Here, Hinkley Trail turns right onto the woods road, crosses the brook on a culvert, and in 10 yd. turns left off the road. After another 50 yd., a ski trail diverges left at XC junction #18. Hinkley Trail descends gradually, crosses bridges over two small brooks, and ascends to meet Birchtoft Trail. 


Map of Monadnock State Park