Franconia Ridge Loop via Falling Waters Trail & Old Bridle Path (White Mountain National Forest)

Franconia Ridge Loop via Falling Waters Trail & Old Bridle Path (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Loop

Distance: 8.87 miles

Elevation: 3,945 feet

Time: 5 hours, 24 minutes (4 hours, 50 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge

The Hike

I was officially in my "holding onto summer with all of my strength" phase of August - time to head back up to the Whites after a one-day hiatus to tackle the classic Franconia Ridge Loop! I had hiked the ridge before, but only as a traverse. I've avoided doing the traditional route just because of crowds, but I figured if I started early in the morning on a weekday, I should be fine. I was up at 3:00am and out the door at 3:15am. I made it to Hooksett by 4:30am and had a disappointing bathroom break and no breakfast sandwich, tragically. Thankfully, the Lincoln Dunkin Donuts came through at 5:30am, where I got to use the bathroom AND get a breakfast sandwich (and a bonus one for the summit!). It was CHILLY out! 45 degrees and SUPER clear - I was getting excited!

I made it to the trailhead at 5:45am, which was delightfully and shockingly empty. Now it was 42 degrees and I was borderline cold! I started off with a fleece and I brought my Nano Puff for good measure. This would be my first long-sleeve hike of the season! I took care of a little more business in the porta potties at the trailhead, put GLOVES on, and got to work!

[5:55am - Old Bridle Path]

My hike started by walking past the truly impressive "Welcome to the Bridle Path - Falling Waters Trailhead" kiosk on a paved path. There was ample signage, including some signs about trail improvements that were being done. There was a guy close behind me, so I was trying to keep a quick early pace (which also helped me warm up). The trail was exceptionally well-built, with wide dirth paths occasionally interrupted with well-built stone stairs.

[5:59am - Falling Waters Trail]

Soon after beginning the hike, the Falling Waters Trail diverges on the right and almost immediately crosses the Walker Brook on a lovely footbridge. I soon tool off my outer layers, as the trail began to climb more often (but not difficultly), eventually veering away from the brook. I could see just the top of the Kinsmans illuminated in the early morning light through the trees (I had thought about doing a sunrise hike, but I wanted to actually see the waterfalls of the Falling Waters Trail, at least for this first visit). The trail briefly flattened and slightly descended, soon entering the White Mountain National Forest at a Forest Protection Area Sign (which encompasses the entirety of the loop), and then crossed Dry Brook, which was pretty dry!

[6:11am - Falling Waters Trail/Forest Protection Area Sign]

The Falling Waters Trail then entered a rerouted stretch with some more nice stonework (the old route was still visible, but clearly closed with lots of sticks and brushing) and followed the Dry Brook on the left, eventually coming up to Stairs Falls, which were just beautiful! I took my gloves off here.

Similar to the Beaver Brook Trail, the Falling Waters Trail was appropriately named as the trail wiggled around the brook, showcasing more and more falling waters! The trail passed beneath the "Sawteeth Ledges," which I wouldn't even know were significant enough to have a name if I didn't read the guidebook, crossed the brook, and then ascended a dry, gravelly, eroded ledge. I was feeling glad that I waited for the sun to be up, because this trail was beautiful!

The brook was now on the right as the water continued to cascade below - I was really enjoying seeing the glowing mountains of the Kinsman Ridge through the trees. I, to no surprise, was yet again thinking about my 4000-Footer journey, and this time I made the connection that I was currently in my "Cher's 2002 The Living Proof, The Farewell Tour" phase of my journey. I only have one "city" left to "perform" at, but I'm visiting some must-hit locations on the way. Also, once I finish the tour, I will obviously be coming back for numerous more tours afterwards.

My foot was miraculously feeling okay - no pain, but I did feel a ~sensation~. A confused little bird dive bombed in front of me, which was alarming, and then the Falling Waters Trail continued to parallel the brook through what appeared to be a storm-damanged area that was a little slippery, and then pivoted to rocky and rugged as it approached Cloudland Falls.

[6:37am - Falling Waters Trail/Cloudland Falls]

Cloudland Falls was BEAUTIFUL. It definitely lived up to the hype! Naturally, I took a million photos and got basically every possible angle of the falls. 

The Falling Waters Trail scrambled to the top of the falls, where there was a cool breeze and a nice view over to the sunlit Mt. Moosilauke, with Mt. Wolf in front - how fun! I passed some more nameless falls and thought about reading through the White Mountain Guide, annotating any named falls, and making a patch that visits all of them...

I then crossed the brook on a slab, which felt super similar the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, and then the trail became just a little confusing to follow. I climbed a little scramble and crossed the brook again, enjoying the scent of early autumn, and continued on (this was signed with a temporary paper sign). 

The trail continued to climb through rugged woods with the brook back on the right. There were rock steps, but 1'-2' in height each, which really fired up the quads! I realized I had forgotten to drink any water so far, so I took care of that, crossed the brook again, followed the temporarily mellower trail before continuing to climb uphill. I was missing my anemometer, and I will probably continue to miss it more and more as the weather begins to change (and get more "extreme") - maybe I'll buy a cheap one on Amazon and see if I can not lose it, and that could be the test if I'm allowed to buy another expensive one or not...

I turned the corner at a switchback and a teeny-tiny black rodent scurried across the trail - probably some variant of a mouse? I also encountered my first crazy squrirel du jour - while I hate their cat-calls, I do love the little piles of nut scraps they adorably leave. The air was chillier higher up, so I was trying to slow my pace and actively breathe through my nose to not make my lungs TOO angry. Since that switchback, the trail was pretty rocky and eroded but thankfully not excessively steep! There would be some nice tree views in the wintertime, I bet.

I felt a foot sensation around the hour-20 minute mark, but it wasn't pain, just like, a sensation. I was going faster than I did on Moosilauke and the trail was generally rockier, so that made sense. I was also loving how well the merino wool was wicking the moisture from my body (which I know is like, merino wool's thing, I just forgot how well it works). The canopy briefly started to open up around 2.7 miles and I was HUNGRY for views. I was soaked in sweat, though, and that made me nervous about getting above treeline and being cold (I had layers, so it wouldn't be an issue, I was just more concerned with comfort). 

[7:36am - Shining Rock Spur]

I ran into my first people of the day at the 2.81 mile mark/1 hour and 42 minutes at the Shining Rock Spur junction. They were taking a rest, I said hello, and turned on the spur to check out Shining Rock. It was medium-steep to get there, but a short trail, and wow! The view was very pretty and very unique of the massive slab. The same people from the junction came down after me, so I let them enjoy the view as I blasted back up to the junction to continue on the Falling Waters Trail (I blasted off a little too hard - I was gasping for air at the junction - oops!).

[7:42am - Falling Waters Trail]

At the junction, there was basically a billboard giving some information about the Alpine Zone/fragile alpine vegetation. The guy I saw in the parking lot had caught up with me, so I continued on froom here. The trail was steeper now and trees began to shrink!... and then un-shrunk - I got a little prematurely excited. 

Eventually, some views behind began to open up back towards Moosilauke and Mt. Wolf, and this final push to Little Haystack was sure a doozy! Not sure if it was actually steeper, I was tired, I was going too fast out of impatience, or all three! The trees soon began to ACTUALLY shirnk and I caught some views over to Cannon with the fog over the Connecticut River behind. This was the point of the hike where I'd climb like 10 feet, turn around, go "WOW," and then climb 10 more feet before rinsing & repeating.

[7:58am - Falling Waters Trail/Alpine Zone]

The Falling Waters Trail OFFICIALLY entered the Alpine Zone after many 10-foot pushes, providing an even better view to the Kinsman Ridge and Lonesome Lake. I just kept saying "oh my god" - it was absolutely stunning up there. My notes read: "oh my GOD its incredible up here holy shit oh my god im overwhelmed." The sun was still low in the horizon, which added a beautiful shadow to the west side of the ridge, while the Pemigewasset Wilderness was fully illuminated. I also loved seeing Killington behind Moosilauke and Mt. Wolf - all three other mountains I climbed this week! I could also now see the slopes of Cannon with Bald Mountain/Artist Bluff looking absolutely tiny. The Greenleaf Hut was standing proud at the end of the Agony Ridge, which was scarred with slides. Lincoln was also looking simply insane in the best way.

[8:04am - Franconia Ridge Trail]

I eventually had to move again, which brought me to the summit of Little Haystack. I originally planned to snack here, but there was a group of hikers already doing so, and I wasn't too hungry yet, so I blasted off toward Mt. Lincoln! I did put my windbreaker on. I couldn't get over how ridiculously beautiful it was on this ridge. It was also... empty?? Last time I was up here, which in fairness was on a Friday, it was like a conga line. I couldn't see anyone besides the hikers on Little Haystack. 

I loved looking right into the Pemi and left onto the Walker Ravine (I think). There were newer little signs that had Ravens teaching hikers about the alpine vegetation which was super cute. There were a few scrambles leading up to Mt. Lincoln, which was a bit of a doozy getting up to, but there were still blueberries for snacking, so all was good!

[8:29am - Franconia Ridge Trail/Mt. Lincoln]

To no surprise, Mt. Lafayette looked absolutely insane from Mt. Lincoln. I could now see Mt. Garfield and the Willoughby Gap (which is one of my favorite things to see) in addition to basically every other mountain (besides Jay Peak, of course, since it was in the only cloud). Little birds guided me down Lincoln. I will say, the Lincoln Slide does look fun to ski... I do want to get into backcountry, but doing a slide like that is YEARS and years away. I need to first just skin up a groomed slope, and then probably the actual backcountry trails in the area before doing anything moderately close to that. 

I continued to be in disbelief 1) how few people were around and 2) how many ripe blueberries there were. I was just the happiest boy! Lafayette looked even better from the summit of Truman/North Lincoln, and I was officially at the point where I could not stop singing "Guns and Ships" from Hamilton.

The col between North Lincoln/Truman and Lafayette was a bit scrubby and marked the official climb to Lafayette. The climb really wasn't too bad, and I always say hiking above treeline always feels easier than when in the woods. The final push was just a sensory dream. The sun was shining, wind was blowing but not oppressively, mountains were visible in every which direction (including Mt. Washington!), and the only sound I could hear was the swishing of the alpine grasses. It was really amazing - I needed it.

[8:59am - Mt. Lafayette Summit]

Once on top, I was again shocked and delighted to see only two other people! I had a nice shelter from the breeze in the old foundation, where I had my snacks (including but not limited to leftover pizza and creme brulee almonds). I found the two survey discs, and it looked like there used to be a third at some point. I was so happy to be up here. 

[9:15am - Greenleaf Trail]

After about 15 minutes, though, many more people began to arrive and I was getting chilly, so it was time to head on down the Greenleaf Trail. There were impressive scree walls guiding the trail as I descended wearing my windbreaker and gloves. The hut looked so close, yet so far! This stretch of trail was similar to the upper Jewel Trail, but a LOT nicer on the knees (not 100% nice, but definitely nicer). 

I loved seeing the false summits north of Lafayette from this angle, and I soon was taking my layers back off as I got out of the wind. It was such a beautiful, perfect day. I really couldn't believe it! I didn't want it to end (also because I had just learned that my toilet at home was broken). I was feeling more sensation in my bad foot, but it wasn't pain, yet. 

The Greenleaf Trail eventually entered the scrub and I went a nice bit of time without seeing anybody else, which was lovely. I did patch one insane patch of super loud flies that I did not care for, and I passed an interesting revegatation sign at "the beach" - a sandy area with what looks like used to be a view, but I guess they're letting it grow back in? 

[9:41am - Greenleaf Trail/Forest Protection Area Sign]

The trail continued to ruggedly descend as it exited the Alpine Zone and entered the Forest Protection Area, eventually briefly ascending to an open area with a nice view back towards Mt. Lafayette. I caught a nice view of the hut and then descended again to the low point of the trail, which was a bridge over the outflow of the Eagle Lakes with partial views around and a nice view to the hut.

[9:55am - Greenleaf Hut]

There was a wonderful view of Lafayette and the lakes from the hut, but I didn't spend time there. It wasn't that I wanted to go home, but I wanted to keep moving and see new things before more people showed up! I did a quick lap around the hut and then turned left onto the Old Bridle Path.

[9:57am - Old Bridle Path]

The Old Bridle Path ascended easily away from the hut, providing a better view and then continued the long descent in well-traveled, mossy woods. 

[10:04am - Old Bridle Path/Forest Protection Area Sign]

The trail soon entered another FPA (I think there's basically four on this hike: Falling Waters Trail, Alpine Zone, Greenleaf Hut, and Old Bridle Path) and continued on a nice, descending trail with mildly rocky footing. I was thinking "this really isn't too bad," just as the trail began to plummet! Thankfully, views began again! I first caught forward/on the right to Haystack, Liberty, I-93, Moosilauke, and the Kinsman Ridge.

A view soon after showcased nearby slides, and then even more views appeared in a scrambly area with super smooth rocks that were a little tricky to navigate. The trail traversed a walking break lined with wonderful white flowers before descending again to a wonderful view of the landmass I had just descended and the Lincoln-Lafayette Ridge. I met a cute dog just after this viewpoint, which was followed an even better view of the full drainage, which was wonderful. The great views continued on this stretch of trail, which was nice as I was beginning to pull over more frequently for folks hiking up. 

There was one big, eroded slab after the last view, and the fun was officially over! We were back on badly eroded, dusty dirt! The trail then flattened, again (not complaining, but I was noticing a pattern!). I saw this adorable blue-ish bird with a gold-ish belly and little white halo-ish type line on it's head - no idea what it was, but it was cute! The trail continued to be dreadfully rocky as it passed a sign about the trail restoration project. After this sign, I was basically on a whole different trail. It was delightfully crafted with easy stone steps and easier grades - it was wonderful!

...and then it got bad again! I realized that the trail workers are building new trails and slowly closing down the existing route in segments, so I was just on a new segment but now I was back on an old one, while the one they were currently working on was on the right. Soon, it was lovely again!

The trail turned a corner and I could hear water agian, but I never saw it. I rambled about in a flatter area, and then a crazy squirrel welcomed me to my final mile, which was back on bad footing. And then it was better! And then it was bad! I descended past a trail worker splitting rocks (I would have said hi, but he was DEEP in his work) - I realized he's working on another new segment that looked almost complete.

NOW I was close! The trail flattened out after this stretch and I could start to hear water again. There was a switchback onto a reroute (the trail crews did a SERIOUS job brushing in the old route!), and then I was suddenly back at the Old Bridle Path/Falling Waters Trail split!!

[11:14am - Old Bridle Path/Falling Waters Trail]

The last stretch of trail was short, sweet, and new! I passed MANY people beginning their adventures, dressed in an... interesting array of clothes. 

[11:18am - End of Hike]

It was now a TOASTY 64 degrees at the car and I had just completed another leg of my farewell tour! I'm not too sure how long this tour will last. I know I want to do the Tripyramids via the slides and maybe the Flume Slide too for good measure, but I have no set dates as of now and plan to just enjoy my time! Now... time to go fix a toilet...

Step-by-Step

- Start hike on Old Bridle Path.

- At jct., turn right onto Falling Waters Trail.

- At terminus, turn left onto Franconia Ridge Trail.

- At summit of Mt. Lafayette, turn left onto Greenleaf Trail.

- At hut, turn left onto Old Bridle Path.

- Follow Old Bridle Path back to car.

Photo Album

Franconia Ridge via Skookumchuck to Lincoln Woods (White Mountain National Forest)

Franconia Ridge via Skookumchuck to Lincoln Woods (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 15.98 miles
Elevation: 4,692 feet

Time: 11 hours, 28 minutes (9 hours, 2 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Loop
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge, Terrifying 25

The Hike

Day four and my final day of mini-vacation in the Whites! Gen came up last night to spend the night and we were up and out at 5:00am to start our adventure for the day! First stop was Dunkin' in Lincoln for breakfast sandwiches (and a bathroom deposit) and we then dropped Gen's car at the infamously beloved Lincoln Woods (thank goodness that you can pay the day-use fee with a credit card now). We then hopped into my car and drove to the Skookumchuck Trail trailhead, just north of Franconia Notch, with one pit stop at the vault toilet at Boise Rock... it was going to be one of those days apparently. It was a chilly 48 degrees at the trailhead with one other car. I was FOOLISH and forgot mountains could be cold, so Gen had to lend me a fleece for this one. We started in just windbreakers to "be bold and start cold," and we were off!

The Skookumchuck Trail started off very gentle through open woods with soft footing, likely from the rain the night before. We were delighted that it was not muddy! It was still dark in these west-facing woods, which added a layer of mysterium. The trail crossed the Heritage Trail (I think a snowmobile trail?) and a few very easy stream crossings, eventually coming to a sign that read:

"WHITE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL FOREST. TREES WERE HARVESTED HERE TO UTILIZE WOOD PRODUCTS, IMPROVE FUTURE STAND QUALITY, PROVIDE WILDLIFE HABITAT AND VISUALLY ENHANCE THE AREA FOR VISITORS. THE WORK WAS CONTRACTED THROUGH SAUNDERS BROTHERS, FRYEBURG, MAINE AND HARVESTED BY C&S LOGGING OF NEWBURY VERMONT. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE FOREST SERVICE."

We took a quick standing break at this sign when a couple hiked past us - joking about how we probably all expected to be alone on this trail at 6:00am. Eventually, the Skookumchuck Trail began to follow Skookumchuck Brook, gently ascending with a few moderate pitches. The sun was beginning to hit the treetops, which created a beautiful golden canopy above us.

The trail began to climb more steeply as the run rose higher in the sky. In a short walking break, we came upon the couple we saw before, starting a joyful game of leap frog! He asked where we were headed today and we told him Lincoln Woods, and continued our climb, and both of us said "oh crap we should have asked where they were going." I life skill that I'm working on is asking people questions back - I feel like when you're growing up you get so used to answering slews of questions by adults that you never really learn to ask them back to continue a conversation, but I'm turning 29 very soon and it's time to be an adult! 

The steep climb is rewarded by some absolutely beautiful woods. A soft footpath with good footing surrounded by tall, skinny trees and ferns as far as the eye could see. The woods here kind of reminded me of the stretch of Owl's Head between the top of the slide and the ridge. I was definitely understanding why this trail comes well-recommended!

The trail continued to climb easily with few moderate pitches - we were sweating but in a "we're exercizing!" not a "I'm about to die!" way. The trees began to get smaller, slowly, and the canopy began to open, slowly. Again, not slowly in a bad way, slowly in a wonderful way. I absolutely loved this trail. There was one moment where we could just make out the peak of North Lafayette, which seemed comically far away still...

Continuing on the incredibly reasonably ascent, we found some moose poop and then entered the Alpine Zone! I always love seeing that sign. I also needed to remember that Alpine Zone does not equal treeline, it just means certain plants will be present and extra care needs to be taken. The trail narrowed and I was taking MANY photos when we continued our game of leap frog!

The trail followed a slightly more open area with MANY bunchberry flowers and some bluebead lily. The trees flirted with krummholtz for a moment, but then the Skookumchuck Trail continued into more dense forest with full-grown trees. At the end of a walking break, we took a quick bathroom break to christen the woods of Mt. Lafayette before we would be locked-in above treeline - it was in fact one of those days...

After the christening the trail began to get steeper (more characteristic of a White Mountain trail, we had been absolutely spoiled all morning) with a few small and singing birds flying about. A

 few scrambles led to the first of MANY views, starting with obstructed views to North Lafayette and Cannon, then deep into Vermont (hello Jay Peak!), eventually breaking through the krummholtz into the stunning, wide-open expanses of the Garfield Ridge Trail.

Windbreakers were back on as the winds were whipping, but we couldn't help but stop and stare at the magnificent scenery. The Skookumchuck Trail terminates on a shoulder at the Garfield Ridge Trail. From the terminus, straight ahead is the vast Pemigewasset Wilderness, with the Twins, Guyot, and Bonds putting on a spectacular show, Owl's Head holding down the fort in the center of the wilderness, and the clouded Presidential Range behind. On the right is one of the many sub-peaks north of Lafayette, whose grasses were shimmering in the wind. Behind is Cannon and northern Vermont, and to the left was Garfield and many peaks north. Even with a few clouds, it was a delightfully clear day. I sent Gen up ahead of me so I could get some photos of her climbing the first sub-peak and couldn't get over how small she looked!

We knew we walked to take a break somewhere (without trampling the fragile apline vegetation, of coruse), so we found a slightly sheltered rock from the wind for a snack and journaling break. Tragically, the sub-freezing windchills didn't allow us to stay for too long. The view into the Pemi was still amazing, at least!

We continued up and over the first sub-peak to find Mt. Lafayette in a cloud - WHAT?! It was supposed to be a crystal clear day! It was pretty, though, but very rude. We could see down to the Greenleaf Hut and could see many people working their way into the cloud. We were very grateful to have taken Skookumchuck, one for the easy grades, but also we got this time above treeline without the crowds of the main Franconia Ridge Trial. 

The Cannon Cliffs looked absolutely dramatic behind the Greenleaf Hut as we continued on, with the cloud celiling slowly rising. The wind was absolutely howling at 20-30mph and windchills hovering right around freezing. Gen and I both agreed that we need to add liner gloves to our summer packs - we truly never thought about it, since neither of us have had extended time above treeline since our hike of the Bonds, which was on a delightful late summer day.

Gen described the whispy cloud flowing over Lafayette's summit as "hair," which is now what it will always be known as. She drew a fantastic diagram in my journal for reference - here is her model photo.

I truly could not stop taking photos forward, backward, and side to side, especially as the clouds parted. The grassy cols were flanked by rocky false summits and it was just an honor to be up there. The only people we were crossing paths with were either AT thru-hikers or Pemi Loop-ers. Just amazing. Eventaully, from the last false summit we saw the clouds begin to rise from the true summit, and we saw the summit sign trail junction!

I did a mixture of sprinting, fighting to catch my breath, and taking pictures on the final climb. The trail was rugged but never too steep from the terminus of Skookumchuck to the summit, which was lovely for us. There were a few people taking photos with the trail sign at the top. The cloud ceiling had to truly only be ~20 feet above the summit at this point, so there were some beautiful whispy clouds around us. We found the USGS summit marker (plus an addition arrow marker), and eventually found refuge in the foundation of an 1850's summit house, according to the guidebook. We positioned ourselves in a way that shielded us from the wind, and we had a phenominal break. Snacking, electrolyting, journaling, and photographing. It started with Gen and I sitting ~20 feet apart (she eventually came to my side, which was more sheltered from the wind), a little bird visited for a while, and we were just so happy to be there (Gen also got to play some Pokemon Go while I was journaling). Air temperature was 40 degrees and still 32 degrees in the wind, which was having some luls now. 

After a nice, long sit, MANY more people began to arrive, so we packed things up and eventually got moving. We took a few more photos at the summit and admired all the drill holes and bolts left in the summit area. We were now on the Franconia Ridge Trail heading for Mts. North Lincoln, Lincoln, and Little Haystack!

At risk of sounding redundant, WOW. The "classic shot" of the Franconia Ridge Trail is coming down from the summit of Lafayette (how has it taken me this long to mention that I have been, in fact, annoyingly quoting Hamilton the whole time?). Obviously photos are incredible, but seeing it in person was awe-inspiring. 

I've been writing this a lot recently, but I love that I saved this absolutely epic hike for later in my 48 and 52 journey - to no surprise, I couldn't shut up about all the peaks I could recognize, pointing out huts and other landmarks (including our hotel!), and talking about the hand-laid stones the Watermans laid out to protect the alpine vegetation. Just amazing.

The further down we hiked the more monumental Mt. Lafayette appeared - perspective is truly crazy! The descent was pretty easy with only a few rougher sections. Same with the climb up to North Lincoln - significant enough that you know it's its own peak, but not prominent enough to be a physical problem (or to be on the NH48 list). 

The majority of the time the trail was very clearly laid out with a solid amount of "ALPINE ZONE" reminders. Naturally, some people still weren't perfectly following those rules. I'm curious if trailhead stewards were down below on this Friday morning? The only grievance we had was that we were basically swimming upstream at this point. It was around lunctime, now, so many, if not most of the hikers were a rough combination of "afternoon hikers" and "tourist hikers." I'm not gatekeeping the mountains, but it is hard to pivot from weekday hiking Cabot and the Tripyramids with only people as crazy as me to being almost knocked off-trail by families in matching Adidas sweatpants. 

It got WINDY heading up to Mt. Lincoln - my anemometer measured 40mph winds now. Just enough to make you freeze where you are and feel the force of mother nature. Thankfully, it was warming up so the wind didn't bite as hard as it did earlier. By now, the clouds were fully gone and the Presidentals were in full view, along with everything else in every direction. We also had a great view of the Lincoln Slide and a partial, "if you know, you know" view of the Owl's Head slide. 

We took another break on Mt. Lincoln since the winds magically vanished for a while. Many people coming and going at this point, and Gen and I both had to pee, badly. Being above treeline on a ridiculously popular hike makes this human urge comically difficult! We were hoping to make it past Little Haystack to take care of business... to be continued...

The trip from Mt. Lincoln to Little Haystack was slow-going, mostly because we were swimming upstream and yielding to uphill hikers. I guess I was taking a good amount of photos, too. This was the most rugged stretch of trail, providing some new, unique views. We tried to ignore how far away Mts. Liberty and Flume looked! Again, not gatekeeping the mountains, but it was very clear who was a regular NH48 hiker and who was here because they saw an article online... oof. The only real problem we encountered was a group of ~20 young girls and one adult sitting on-trail in one of the more rugged spots. They were giving dirty looks to people who were trying to hike past while making jokes... I had to take some deep breaths and only silent give the adult a death-glare. How can you not realize that you picked an awful resting spot? Anyway, we grumped through and continued on. If a Friday is this bad, how insane would a Saturday be? I hope to never find out!

The ridge had minor ups and downs but overall was rugged in a gentle way. The winds had officially calmed down and we eventaully made it to the trail junction on Little Haystack! I was reflecting on Ty Gagne's book "The Last Traverse" and I can absolutely see how one could miss a trail turn in adverse, winter weather. I really do recomment that book to everyone, it's a sad story, an incredible story, and so well written.

The view to Lincoln from Little Haystack was amazing, but we had to no time to waste - it was time to get into the woods for a nice long break. From the junction on Little Haystack, the Franconia Ridge Trail dips into the scrub and then into the woods, following soft footing with some boardwalks that were not necessary on this day. The trail here reminded me briefly of the trail on Pine Bend Brook Trail just before the final "attack" on North Tripyramid. We eventaully found a (likely illegal) camp spot, where we pulled over for a nice sit and pee break. It was nice to be back into the woods in a quiet spot to just relax for a moment. There were obstructed tree views of Canon from this spot, and we were able to people watch as thru-hikers and many trail runners passed by. I do love solo hiking, I do it most of the time, but it was very nice to be hiking with a friend again.

After a little bit we packed up and got ready to continue our journey. We took our poles out to brace our knees for a decent, and immediately put them away when we saw how steep the trail descends from an open shoulder (that also provides a great view to Liberty and Flume with the I-93 corridor on the right.

With our poles away we made the steep, scrambly descent into some more lovely forest. The descent was more or less parabolic (along with the two upcoming peaks). Started off very steep, and then slowly became more moderate and then gradual. From the col, it was the reverse. The woods in this area alternated between mossy and fir-wave areas with a dense understory. The footbed was always clear and open, thankfully. 

There were a few blowdowns, most of which were duck-unders, one of which was "just high enough that I didn't notice it over the brim of my visor but just low enough were I smack my head into it." Ouch. Eventually, the trail began a very gentle rise, first to what looked like an old Forest Protection Area sign board, and then to the actual Forest Protection Area sign. It climbed a little more moderately, and then met the junciton with Liberty Spring Trail!

The AT and white blazes turned right to descend the ridge along the Liberty Spring Trail, but we continued up the now blue-blazed Franconia Ridge Trail to Mt. Liberty. There were two guys taking a rest at this junction, one was taking a phone call and said "sorry I can't do that, I'm on top of a mountain," which made me giggle. We also crossed paths with MANY trail runners, most of whom were speaking French, which was fun.

We crossed paths with eight boys who could be no older than 18 years old really playing the part of "teenagers are indestructable." Two were carrying gallon jugs of walmart water. Our favorite had a school backpack on with a 6-person tent tied to the bottom. Honestly, incredible! The climb up to the summit of Mt. Liberty was steep but short with incredible views. There was a smaller knob occupied by a large group of guys just before the large ledge that leads to the true summit, which had much more room.

There were great views toward Lincoln and Cannon, the Kinsmans and Moosilauke, and of the rugged peak itself. We excitedly found the USGS disc at the top, took a million more photos, and then had a nice, shorter break down below the summit ledge. It really was a sheer drop-off from the summit toward the I-93 corridor! The view away from I-93 was also excellent, with the multi-layered Owl's Head/Bonds/Preisdientals commanding respect.

The Franconia Ridge Trail goes over the true summit ledges and then descends steeply, giving a final view of Mt. Flume, which looked still quite far away, and the Bonds. We passed one couple who mentioned "there weren't this many people on the Flume Slide Trail," and then another hiker so said "these scrambles are nothing after Flume Slide!," almost in succession. I guess I'll have to climb it someday....

The trail continued a steep descent over the sharpest in the rocks in the whites (probably), parabolically leveling out again, to a very soft-bottomed sag (that wording made me laugh a little too much) where took another quick break. The group of boys from the summit of Mt. Liberty leap-frogged us and we crossed paths with a few more backpackers and trail runners. The climb up to Mt. Flume was more moderate than really anything we'd done in a while, plus it was the last climb of the day so we were a bit gassed. FINALLY we saw the sky through the trees... but it was a false summit! I could have cried. This was CRUEL.

Dramatics aside, the false summit to the real summit was no problem and soon enough we were back on a beautiful, open view. This was the most restricted view of the day, but it was lovely. The summit of Flume is impressively jagged, with a very satisfying view back to Mts. Liberty, Lincoln, and Lafayette. Almost like a capstone view, showing us our full journey from first peak to last. The group of boys were hogging the true summit, which is a pet-peeve of mine, but I guess in fairness there wasn't a huge summit area - similar to Mt. Webster. We could make out the drainage pattern that leads to the Flume Gorge (and the Flume Gorge Visitor Center), and the initial steep shoulder coming off Little Haystack where we took our poles out and put them back away again.

We had some final snacks, including a Dunkin' Donuts cookie (I didn't even know they made them until 5:15am this morning), took some final photos, and continued our journey, past a Gray Jay, steeply down into the woods to the terminus of the Franconia Ridge Trail at the junction of Flume Slide Trail and Osseo Trail.

I wasn't sure what to fully expect from the Osseo Trail, as some reports say it's easy-going, but it is also on the Terrifying 25 trail list... The inital descent was pretty lovely, actually. A little rocky at first but smooths out quickly. Basically one big walking break that trended down. A soft footbed with mossy edges... kind of lovely? We could clearly see the old Osseo Trail (apparently decomissioned in the 80s) junction and we continued on.

We passed a backpacking couple blasting some music with a speaker which was just... a bummer. Especially in such a beautiful, peaceful area. Soon after we heard someone singing, and were passed by a couple I've actually seen on the Facebook groups! She was very kind and asked if we were coming off of a Pemi, I said "oh god no." There was a brief muddy section that was kind of avoidable, and then we hit the dreaded ladders!

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By ladders, they were actually just stairs, and incredibly easy and almost joyful to descend. The canopy was open here, bright and sunny, and we were shocked at how not-terrifying they actually were. There was one view point higher up to (I think) Whaleback Mtn., and another "downlook" further down with a view towards the Twins/Bonds. 

After the DREADED (lovely) LADDERS (stairs), the trail descended via switchbacks, usually with stone steps on the steep corners, and eventually hit a very gentle logging road with good, gentle footing. This stretch was long, for sure, but easy and lovely, paralleling the Osseo Brook on a logging road. Poles eventually went away as we picked up the pace - we were ready for cheeseburger time.

Eventually the trail started a short meander along the Osseo Brook just before terminating at Lincoln Woods - only 1.4 miles left! The Osseo Trail terminates right at the sign that says "you lose 130 years of history if you take a railroad spike from the Pemi" which like, I get it, but I truly never think about taking a railroad spike until I see this sign - now I want one!

Lincoln Woods was realtively quick and easy, minus the mind games it always plays. Gen and I were basically sprinting at this point, passing a few tourist hikers, smelling foul as foul could be. We eventually hit the famous washout and then the beloved bridge! We were absolutely thrilled to be back at the parking lot with those wonderful bathrooms. We changed our clothes and made our way to the Woodstock Inn and Brewery for a hefty lunch/dinner followed by a not-too-bad-but-still-long drive back to Boston.

In short reflection, I'm so glad I made this little trip happen. Just a few years ago, hiking a 4000 footer was enough to knock me out for a few days. I was able to hike four days straight, and only the last one beat me up hard (I was SORE-sore the next morning). In these four days I hiked 48.01 miles and 13,537 feet of gain - also this June was my "hikeyist" month ever with 93.9 miles and 28,016 feet. I'm also 75% done with my NH48 and 94% done with my 52WAV which is abasolutely crazy. I know momentum will slow for a bit as I head down to New Jersey for July and then hit the UK in August, but I'm hoping to keep hiking locally in the meantime so I'm ready to start tackling the northern Presidentials come fall!

Step-By-Step

- Park at Skookumchuck Trail trailhead.

- Start hike on Skookumchuck Trail (blue blazes).

- At jct. with Heritage Trail, continue straight on Skookumchuck Trail.

- At terminus, turn right onto Garfield Ridge Trail/AT (white blazes).

- Summit Mt. Lafayette.

- Continue straight onto Franconia Ridge Trail/AT (white blazes).

- Summit Mt. Lincoln.

- Continue straight onto Franconia Ridge Trail/AT (white blazes).

- At jct. on Little Haystack, continue straight onto Franconia Ridge Trail/AT (white blazes).

- At jct. with Liberty Spring Trail, continue straight onto Franconia Ridge Trail (blue blazes).

- Summit Mt. Liberty.

- Continue on Franconia Ridge Trail (blue blazes).

- Summit Mt. Flume.

- Continue on Franconia Ridge Trail (blue blazes). 

- At terminus, turn left onto Osseo Trail (yellow blazes).

- At terminus, turn right onto Lincoln Woods, return to spotted car.

“Skookumchuck Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022) 

WMNF This is an attractive and less frequently used route, with generally good footing, from the Franconia Notch area to the north ridge of Mt. Lafayette, 0.8 mi. below the summit. The trail begins on US 3 at a parking lot (plowed in winter) that also serves the north end of Franconia Notch Recreation Path, 0.3 mi. south of the jct. of US 3 and NH 141 and just north of the point where US 3 divides at its northern jct. with I-93 and Franconia Notch Parkway at Exit 35.

        Leaving the parking lot, blue-blazed Skookumchuck Trail climbs away from the highway, crosses a snowmobile trail, and runs generally south at easy grades, descending to cross Jordan Brook at 0.6 mi. At 1.1 mi., the trail reaches the old route at the edge of Skookumchuck Brook and swings left to follow the brook upstream. At 1.8 mi., the trail crosses a small tributary on a rock bridge, climbs steeply away from the brook at a moderate grade through a fine stand of birch. At 2.5 mi., Skookumchuck trail passes a small brook (unreliable), soon reaches the crest of the ridge in open woods, and continues to a shoulder at 3.6 mi., with a glimpse ahead to Mt. Lafayette’s North Peak from a fir wave. After a short, gradual descent, the trail angles to the northeast at mostly easy grades and then swings right, climbs more steeply with rocky footing, scrambles up a tricky ledge, and emerges above tree line just before reaching its jct. with Garfield Ridge Trail.

        Descending from Garfield Ridge Trail, Skookumchuck Trail runs generally northwest for about 60 yd. and then swings more to the west (left), quickly reaching the shelter of the scrub.

“Garfield Ridge Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st. Ed. (2022) 

AMC Garfield Ridge Trail leaves the signs at the 3-way jct. just north of the summit of Mt. Lafayette and runs north along the open ridge over several minor knobs; climbs over the bare, rounded North Peak; and then descends steeply over rough ledges to a jct. on the left with Skookumchuck Trail on an open shoulder at 0.8 mi. [...].

“Franconia Ridge Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st. Ed. (2022) 

AMC This heavily used trail follows the backbone of the ridge that runs south from Mt. Lafayette at the jct. of Garfield Ridge and Greenleaf Trails; passing over Mt. Lincoln, Little Haystack Mtn., Mt. Liberty, and Mt. Flume; and ending at a jct. with Flume Slide Trail and Osseo Trail just south of Mt. Flume. Much work has been done to define and stabilize the trail and to reduce erosion; the late Guy Waterman and Laura Waterman, authors of several books on hiking and backcountry ethics in the Northeast, spent many hours observing each step taken by passing hikers to determine the best placement of individual rocks. Hikers are urged to stay on the trail - which is well-defined by cairns and scree walls - to save the thin alpine soils and fragile vegetation. From Mt. Lafayette to Liberty Spring Trail, this trail is part of the AT.

        Caution: The portion of Franconia Ridge above treeline from Mt. Lafayette to Little Haystack Mtn. does not involve any unusually difficult or hazardous climbing, but it is almost constantly exposed to the full force of any storms and is dangerous in bad weather or high winds. In particular, due to the sharpness, narrowness, and complete exposure to weather of the ridge crest of Mt. Lafayette, Mt. Lincoln, and Little Haystack Mtn., the danger from lightning is unusually great. Avoid this portion of the ridge when thunderstorms appear to be brewing.

        The following description of the path is in the southbound direction (away from Mt. Lafayette). Distance, elevation gains, and times are also given for the reverse direction.

        Leaving the signs at the 3-way jct. With Greenleaf and Garfield Ridge Trails just north of the summit of Mt. Lafayette, Franconia Ridge Trail leads south, passing to the left of the foundation of an 1850s summit house. The trail descends at a moderate grade to the first sag, where it passes through a small scrub patch that might provide some shelter in bad weather. It then climbs across a prominent hump (unofficially known as “Mt. Truman), descends to another sag, and climbs again, with one ledge scramble, to the summit of Mt. Lincoln at 1.0 mi., with the high point just to the right of the trail. From there, Franconia Ridge Trail descends sharply with rough footing between Mt. Lincoln and Little Haystack Mtn., which has steep slopes on both sides. At the base of this knife-edged section, the ridge becomes nearly level and much broader, and the trail continues on the ridge crest in the open, with minor ups and downs, crossing the summit of Little Haystack Mtn., to the jct. with Falling Waters Trail on the right at 1.7 mi.

        Franconia Ridge trail continues to the south end of the Little Haystack summit ridge, enters the scrub, and descends steeply over ledges for a short distance, with one fine view to the south. Then it moderates and follows the long, fairly gradual, wooded ridge down to the Little Haystack-Liberty col at 2.8 mi. The trail then rises easily to a jct. with Liberty Spring Trail on the right at 3.5 mi.; water can be found at Liberty Spring Tentsite 0.3 mi. down this trail. Franconia Ridge Trail, now blazed in blue, ascends to a small, ledgy crest and then swings right up ledges to the rocky summit of Mt. Liberty at 3.8 mi. The trail then makes a hairpin turn to the left and descends into the woods to the east and then northeast. The descent is steep and rough at first over ledges and large rocks, then moderates as the trail descends southeast toward the col. The trail passes through two small sags and ascends moderately over a knob before it continues up to the open summit of Mt. Flume. Franconia Ridge Trail traverses the level crest and then descends along the edge of the west-facing cliff (use extra caution in windy or slippery conditions, especially where the trail crosses the top of a steep gully) and enters the woods. It continues descending and ends 0.1 mi. south of the summit of Mt. Flume in a little col, at the jct. With Osseo Trail straight ahead and Flume Slide Trail on the right.

“Osseo Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022) 

AMC This yellow-blazed trail connects Lincoln Woods Trail with the south end of Franconia Ridge, near the summit of Mt. Flume. Osseo Trail has mostly moderate grades with good footing. It begins on the west side of Lincoln Woods Trail, 1.4 mi. north of the parking area on the Kancamagus Highway. Osseo Trail heads northwest, following Osseo Brook in a flat area, and then climbs the banks to the right and follows old logging roads up the valley at easy to moderate grades with good footing, including one section where it briefly follows an old inclined logging railroad grade at one of its switchbacks. At 2.1 mi., the trail turns right and climbs by switchbacks to the top of the ridge above the valley to the north. It ascends the ridge, winding about at first and climbing by zigzags as the ridge becomes steeper. At the top of this section there are several wooden staircases, and at 3.2 mi., a short side path (sign) leads right to a “downlook” with a fine view into the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

        Osseo Trail ascends more staircases, passing a side path leading 10 yd. Left to a south viewpoint, and soon reaches the top of the ridge. Its grade becomes easy until it reaches the crest of Franconia Ridge in an unusually flat area at 3.7 mi. Osseo Trail turns sharply right here and ascends steadily near the crest of a narrow ridge to a jct. with Flume Slide Trail on the left and Franconia Ridge Trail straight ahead; the summit of Mt. Flume is reached in 0.1 mi. along Franconia Ridge Trail.

“Lincoln Woods Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st. Ed. (2022) 

WMNF Lincoln Wood Trail runs for 2.9mi along the west side of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, from the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) to a footbridge over Franconia Brook, forming a central artery from which several trails diverge and lead to various destinations near and in the western part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Lincoln Woods Trail follows the wide bed of a logging railroad that last operated in 1948. The trail begins at a large parking area with USFS information center on the north side of the road (sign: Lincoln Woods), just east of the highway bridge over the East Branch, 5.6mi from the information center at I-93, Exit 32 in Lincoln and 0.3mi beyond the Hancock Campground. This trail receives extremely heavy use, and camping is strictly regulated (See p. 151 for camping regulations). The area along the East Branch was heavily damaged by the 2011 storm, and in many places, the high, steep riverbanks have been severely undercut, creating a serious hazard for hikers who approach too close to the edge. [...].

        Leaving the parking lot, Lincoln Woods runs across the deck of the information center and descends a wooden stairway to the left, swings left past a kiosk and crosses the East Branch on a suspension bridge, then turns right and follows the railroad bed along the river, climbing almost imperceptibly. At 0.7mi the trail skis to the left of a major washout from the 2011 storm, with a view over the river to Mt. Hitchcock. Soon the trail crosses Osseo Brook over a culvert and follows it upstream, and at 1.4mi Osseo Trail diverges left to follow Osseo Brook up its valley.

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