Mt. Martha & Owl's Head (Cherry Mountain) (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Martha & Owl's Head (Cherry Mountain) (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 5.56 miles
Elevation: 2,392 feet

Time: 2 hours, 52 minutes (2 hours, 38 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Out-and-back
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge 2024; 52 With-a-View

The Hike

After a short layover back in Boston - I was back in the car at 3:15am. Yesterday I had my Firescrew/Cardigan/Orange hike followed by a backyard birthday for my roommate and his college friend which I was regretably not the best cohost for. I put myself to bed strictly at 9:00pm, but thankfully I got the sleep that I desperately needed! I made it to Hookset at 4:20am and was thankfully awake due to a box of Honey Nut Cheerios I had stashed away (unfortuntely, snacking is the only thing that truly keeps me awake on these low-sleep low-light drives... Cheerios seem to have the best bang for my buck in terms of quantity versus poor nutrition... veggies seem like a good substitute but I simply cannot stand to munch on carrots that long). I was SHOCKED to find fresh breakfast sandwiches, but delighted nonetheless. I did not have to use the bathroom yet, which was a bummer, and I still had my sore throat, but overall I was doing okay!

I took a quick pit stop at the I-93 northbound Basin parking area to use the bathroom (yay!) and made my way to the trailhead around 6:00am. Naturally, my tummy was feeling icky again. It wasn't too buggy out and at 46 degrees, the bugs were still asleep. I suited up and followed the grassy footpath into the woods on the Cherry Mountain Trail.

I was immediately greeted with many spider webs to the face, which made me glad I brought my poles. The early trail was along a nice, old road above a brook (not in view). I was a little sore from yesterday's adventure but already thrilled to be back in the whites. There was a nice, gentle breeze as I continued on the almost straight trail. I passed a few lovely wildflowers (many seven-pointed starflowers and some lady slippers), and then officially entered the White Mountain National Forest. The border almost looked like an old trail? Or maybe just a slightly cleared path to mark the trees? Not sure. I should check my old books...

Higher up, the trail gets wilder and more rugged, with an abnormal amount of toads hopping about. I even hear the call of my moral enemies... the thumping of a grouse's wings. The Cherry Mountain Trail crossed a trickling stream just before getting steeper with worse footing. The trail continued to be just steep and rugged enough to be annoying all the way up to the Mt. Martha Spur.

Thankfully, relief is felt once near the spur and the ridge, as the canopy begins to open up. I caught the my first glimpse of the sun just before the junction. The ridge line has a very different feel to it, now along a snowmobile trail. The Mt. Martha Spur turns left here and climbs more gradually to the summit, but unfortunately there were MANY flies buzzing about (it was here when I realized I had left my visor in my car... hopefully the bugs won't be "need a bug net and hat" bad...).

From the grassy summit area there is a nice view of the Presidentials, which was slightly washed out by the sun at the early morning hour. A spur trail neads away from the view, past old fire tower footings, and lands at a lovely view of the Twins, Franconia Ridge, and Cannon. I didn't stay at either view for too long as the flies were abundant and LOUD.

Martha's Mile continues through a small patch of grass into the woods along the thin, wooded ridge. I was probably no more than 50 feet along the trail when I head the sound of a large mammal walking or shifting its weight or something. Now, in all reality, there's a large likelihood that I was the large mammal I heard, but my ears were now on high alert. I truly am not too scared of running into bears on trail - I've done it MANY times. Growing up in New Jersey, a bear safety assembly is a yearly tradition. I AM afraid of running into moose, though! It didn't help that soon after hearing the supposed large mammal, I immediately came upon some old moose poop (and continued to run into at least 6 more piles...). 

Stress aside, this was a really neat section of trail. The very thin ridgeline continued through a sunny, grassy blowdown area (with lots of moose poop) followed by a steep descent (of which I was already dreading on the return) in some pretty woods. This stretch felt much more remote than the Cherry Mountain Trail.

The col was very fern-y and then Matha's Mile continued into some darker woods for a suddenly steep and rugged climb up to Owl's Head, featuring a few silly scrambles that required me to throw my poles ahead. 

Thankfully, my stress and hard work was immediately rewarded with an outstanding view from Owl's Head. Before enjoying my stay, I ran ahead to the summit area to check for USGS markers (apparently there is one on either Martha or Owl's Head, but I did not find them sadly...). Back at the view, I took a nice sit and snack here. On the near right is Mt. Martha, looking much bigger from this vantage point, followed by Tom/Field/Willey, Willard, Crawford Notch (with the Tripyramids in the far background), Webster, Jackson, and then the whole Presidental Range. Really spectacular. AND the bugs left me alone here! I was so happy I suffered through that drive. It was a beautiful, sunny 63 degrees with no wind.

My return trip was an immediate return to crustiness with a sit-and-scootch descent down the scrambles. Just after I did my usual "I'm stressed about wild animals and I feel very alone so I'm going to clack together my poles" pole clack, and immediately ran into my first (and only) human of the hike! He nearly scared the life out of me, but was super nice. He asked if I was up for sunrise, to which I told him I always think about it but usually end up sleeping, to which he agreed. 

The climb back up to Mt. Martha definitely got my heart rate up but it did not feel as terrible as I anticipated. Not to get too conceited, but I think I'm still not used to being in better shape. I blasted through the summit area since I remembered I had leftover pizza in my car with my name on it!

The initial descent down Cherry Mountain Trail was quite steep, but thankfully the grade eases throughout the final 1.7 miles. The air was feeling quite humid down low which just made me sweatier than I wanted, but that was fine because car pizza was coming soon!! The lower woodland critters were very active and soon enough I was back at my car, INHALING my pizza! Next up was a 30 minute drive with a pit stop at a horrid porta potty (that I evidently did not need) to the Mt. Tremont trailhead at the lower base of Crawford Notch!

Step-By-Step

- Part at Cherry Mountain Trailhead on NH-115.

- Start hike on Cherry Mountain Trail.

- At ridge, turn left onto Mt. Martha Spur.

- At summit, turn right onto Martha's Mile.

- At summit of Owl's Head, retrace steps back to car.

"Cherry Mountain Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF This trail runs across the ridge of Cherry Mtn. just south of the summit of Mt. Martha (which is reached by a spur path). It west trailhead is at a parking area (not plowed in winter; limited roadside parking) opposite Lennon Rd. on NH 115, 1.9 mi. north of its jct. with US 3 and 7.8 mi. south of its jct. with US 2. [...].

        Leaving the parking area off NH 115, Cherry Mtn. Trail ascends at easy to moderate grades through young growth on an old logging road, paralleling Carter Brook, which is in a small ravine to the right. At 0.6 mi., the trail skirts the edge of a large, brushy logging cut on the left. At 0.7 mi., the trail becomes a footpath and ascends more steeply through mature woods on an old roadbed, climbing higher above the brook, and passes a spring on the left at 1.3 mi. At 1.7 mi., Cherry Mtn. Trail reaches the ridge crest (signs), and a spur path turns left and climbs 0.2 mi. to the partly open summit of Mt. Martha, swinging left at the top to reach the small summit clearing from the north. Here, Cherry Mtn. Trail meets Martha's Mile (sign), which diverges sharply right (nroth); in 2021, there was no sign for Cherry Mtn. Trail at the summit. To the left of where the trail emerges is a view east to the Presidential Range. A beaten path continues ahead (southwest) a few steps to the brushy fire tower site, where there are old supports, and then descends 40 yd. to a standing view west and southwest.

        [...].

"Martha's Mile" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF Martha's Mile is a link trail between the summits of Mt. Martha and Owl's Head. It was originally cut in the late 1800s and after decades of abandonment was rebuilt in 1966 by Bill Nichols, a resident of Littleton, New Hampshire. From the wooded ledge at the summit of Owl's Head, the yellow-blazed trail descends a short distance south over ledges to a spur leading a few steps to the left to the main outlook ledges, which afford a magnificent view of the Presidentail Range. Here, Owl's Head Trail turns right (west), then quickly right again (north), and runs along the edge of a dropoff (use caution) to a trail sign. It then descends a short, very steep pitch and turns sharply left. Martha's Mile continues down steeply for a short distance before descending easily to a col at 0.2 mi. It climbs moderately then gradually through attractive woods, with good footing, passing a blowdown area with views toward the Presidential Range, and continues to the summit of Mt. Martha.

Photo Album

Owl's Head Mountain (Groton State Forest)

Owl's Head Mountain (Groton State Forest)

Distance: 4.80 miles
Elevation: 679 feet
Time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Hike Type: Out-and-Back

Hiking Challenges: Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge

The Hike

Last one! I had a sleepy drive from the Spruce Mountain trailhead back to Groton State Forest to bookend this weekend. I decided to take the slightly longer route by parking in the Northern Parking Area instead of paying the $5 to go into New Discovery State Park, mostly just becuase I didn't want to have to talk to anybody. It was officially hot outside, 77 at the trailhead, there was no one else at the parking lot, lots of bugs, and I got all my stuff together to get this last hike!

"Welcome to Groton State Forest. This 26,000+ acre forest is managed as a multiple use forest by the State of Vermont, and offers camping, hiking, fishing, hunting, and winter recreation such as ski touring and snowmobiling. The forest is a "working forest" with timber harvesting on selected tracts producing funds for Vermont's Land and Facilities Trust Fun. Groton is rich in human history. The land was too rugged and the soil too stony to be good for agriculture, so little of the landscape was cleared. But the rich forests brought loggers, railroads, and mills to the region and Lake Groton became a bustling site of activity during the last century. Today, the forest provides a multitude of recreation opportunities in any season. Park facilities are in full operation during the summer, but can be enjoyed year-round. Nature programs are offered throughout the Forest and at the Nature Center, located at the north end of Lake Groton. There are many hiking and multiple-use trails in the Forest that can be accessed from various trail heads and parking areas (see map). The lodging and conference facility at Seyon Ranch is unique in the Vermont State Park system. Here is a seculded year-round facility located on Noyes Pond that offers home-style cuisine and a specialty of fly-fishing for trout only. Hiking and cross-country skiing trails are also available on site. Wildlife viewing is a favorite pursuit at any time of the year. Spring warbler migrations, summer loon watches, fall hawk migrations, or winter tracking opportunities are available at the Forest. Be sure to visit often and search your favorite habitats. If you are lucky you may even see a moose." - trailhead kiosk.

The trail starts on an old road that parrallels the main road, also featuring an impressive amount of horse poop. The trail starts descending (boo) soon after beginning, and bottoms out at the Telephone Line Trail trailhead, which then briefly ascends to cross the main road.

The Telephone Line Trail seems to have had some recent improvements - relatively new blazes and switchbacks! The trail easily ascends while parralleling a recently logged area, with of course, horse poop all over the ground. Higher up, the trail becomes enveloped in ferns, but with a clear footbed. I sadly destroyed many a spider web with my face, and eventually hit the height of land, where the trail began to descend again.

"The Nature of groton Forest... borne of Fire and Ice: Groton State Forest is mainly located in the Connecticut River watershed, with the exception of Marshfield and Peacham Ponds flowing into the Winooski River and eventually Lake Champlain. The bedrock that forms these mountains was created during a continental collision about 360 million years ago, when the sea floor was buried and molten granite intruded, all being pressure-cooked deep below the surface. Over millionsof years, the overlying mountains wore away, leaving the roots exposed at the surface. Most the present landscape at Groton Forest is made of granite, which is similar to the White Mountains of New Hampshire rather than the Green Mountains of Vermont."

"All of this landscape was covered by continental ice sheets in four successive advances during the past 1.5 million years. The ice ground down mountain peaks and gouged out valleys as it moved south. The last advance disappeared from here only about 13,000 years ago. All the lakes, ponds and marshes of Groton were created by glacial dams of sand and gravel as the ice melted away. The large boulders strewn across the landscape are known as "glacial erratics" and were dropped from the ice as it melted."

"Today, we have a rich and diverse forested landscape that hosts a variety of wildlife. Forest fires during the early 1900's resulted in a second-growth forest of today. Logging encourages young growth that harbors a wide variety of plant communities with abundant food and cover for wild creatures. Be sure to visit during spring and fall migration periods to observe songbird movement. If hunting is your interest, most of Groton State Forest is open for pursuit of deer, moose, hare, grouse, turkey, and other game."

"During winter, take to the woods to discover the tracks of wildlife that normally stay hidden during the summer months. Fisher, otters, deer, grouse, turkeys, and moose tracks are often encountered during a ski tour, snowshoe trip or snowmobile excurision. Every season offers new and interesting experiences that will keep you returning year after year." - trailhead kiosk.

Near the junction with the Owl's Head Trail, the footbed turns into crushed gravel, and eventually bottoms out at the junction in nice, open woods. Turning right here, the Owl's Head Trail continues and immedaitely begins to regain the elevation lost. The blazing here also looked recently redone, likely due to the interruption caused by the logging operation (as evidenced by the trail crossing a very open logging road). It also appears that some of this logging is being done by a study, detailed below. I saw at least three of these signs at different points of the hike, all with the same information.

"Adaptive Silviculture Strategies at Groton State Forest"

"Introduction: The maintenance shop sale at Groton State Forest is a collaboration between the VT Forest, Parks, and Recreation Department, Rubenstein School at UVM, and USDA Forest Service Northern Institute of Applied Climate Science. The experiment at this area was designed and established in 2020 with harvests occurring in summer 2022. The goal of this research partnership is to establish large-scale and long-term replicated experiments to examine the success of different silvicultural practices at addressing adaptation to climate change and invasive species, while supporting other values including carbon sequestration and habitat for native biodiversity. A key challenge being addressed at this site is the preponderance of American beech and its impacts on the diversity and vulnerability of VT Forests."

"Patch Clear-cut (No Live-tree Retention): This treatment consisted of removing all the live overstory trees from the unit, leaving only existing snags and cavity trees. In addition, 4 whole trees were pulled to create tip-up mounds. Downed dead wood was increased by felling and leaving 8-10 large, trees of low economic value per acre. To restore historically important species and icnrease climate adaptation, future-adapted northern hardwood species currently found near the site, such as northern red oak, and historically important coniferous species, including red spruce and eastern white pine, will be planted in spring 2023 in these areas."

"Patch Clear-cut with Dispersed Retention: This treatment involved removing 90% of all overstory trees and retaining 10% of overstory trees as reserves. Retained trees were dispersed across the site prioritizing trees that supported biodiversity and adaptation goals, including large, low value individuals, beech displaying resistance to beech bark disease, beech with evidence of bear activity, conifer species, white ash, and yellow birch. These reserve trees will not be harvested and serve as an import source of habitat and future seed. Insecticide treatments to prevent EAB impacts on retained ash will be considered. As with teh no live-tree treatment, 4 whole trees were pulled to create tip-up mounds in the unit. This treatment also includes planting the same species as described above in spring 2023."

"Patch Clear-cut with Aggregated Retention: As with the dispersed retention treatment, this treatment involved removing 90% of all overstory trees and retaining 10% of overstory trees as reserves; however, they were retained as four 1/4-acre retention aggregates. Retention aggregates were spread out across the harvested patch, and where possible, centered on unique ecological features, including include seeps, vernal pools, snags, downed woody materials, resistant beech, and conifer inclusions. As with the other treatments, 4 whole trees were pulled to create tip-up mounts in the unit. This treatment includes planting the same species as described above in spring 2023. Evaluations of forest responses to each retention treatments will help inform best strategies for retaining trees on sites with heavy beech competition."

"Forest Management Goals: The short-term goal of this experiment is to create a structurally complex and compositionally-balanced stand of northern hardwoods by regenerating a diverse mix of species. These clear-cuts and scarification will allow for less-shade tolerant species to compete with and reduce the American beech component. In addition, planted seedlings will be monitored to evaluate success of different species under varying spatial patterns of retention. Long-term goals are to restore the composition of the forest to a greater diversity of canopy species with a low level of forest health issues. The management practices at this site are aimed at regenerating forests with species composition adapted to current and future issues, including beech leaf disease, emerald ash borer, and climate change. In addition, treatments focus on meeting wildlife goals wtihin the management unit. Lastly, communicating with the public to promote understanding of the intent and benefits of these treatments is an important element of forest management with outcomes of these studies helping to inform future management practices."

Continuing along, the trail is in the woods with large, logged fields on either side ~20 off trail. The upper one looked like the iconic Windows XP wallpaper, but instead of grass it was ferns. I couldn't' get a good view of it without going off-trail, so we get to enjoy the imagination now! I passed truly the quietest person on this Earth, and later on passed a responsible dog owner! The dog was leashed, responded well to recall, and the owner asked if I was okay with dogs while stepping off-trail. I'll likely never get over my angst towards irresponsible and lazy dog owners, but it was lovely to meet this one!

The trail continued to gain easily/moderately to a false summit area that featured a cool rock walk over a swamp, which sadly led to a descent. Thankfully there was a pretty boardwalk in the col. The trail skirted around the parking area (which was surprisingly empty) before making a final push to the summit, which involved a couple switchbacks and some lovely stonework on the trail. My quads were beyond dead at this point, but I was thrilled to be almost there!

I caught up with the human race at the top, which I shared with 10-15 others. It was officially hot outside, so I was truly unsightly (and smelled like death). A highlight of the view was being able to see Spruce Mountain - where I just was! There was a cute observation gazebo, but I was cooking in the sun, so I took my photos and started my return!

The return trip was quick and easy minus the fact that I kept kicking rocks by accident. Back at the Telephone Line Trail junction I realized that I was, in fact, starving, but kept pushing on. Ususally I'm a proponent for stopping for a snack, but I just wanted to be in dry clothes in my car. The uphill on the TL trail was easy but still got my heart rate up since I was power hiking, and the uphill to the parking area hurt a bit more, but I was extremely thrilled to be back. Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge = Complete! I changed my clothes and dried off and began my long drive home - passing the washed out summit road to Owl's Head (which explains why the parking area was empty). I eventually got food at the Taco Bell off I-89, it was magical.

Step-by-Step

    - Park at Northern Parking Area.

    - Follow Connector Trail from parking area.

    - At junction, turn left onto Telephone Line Trail.

    - Cross road, continue on Telephone Line Trail.

    - At junction, turn right onto Owl's Head Trail.

    - Follow Owl's Head Trail to summit.

    - Retrace steps back to car.

"Welcome to Groton State Forest" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        At more than 26,000 acres, Groton State Forest is the second largest contiguous land holding of the State of Vermont. This scenic and rugged area is known for its developed and dispersed recreation opportunities. Though only a half-hour drive from Barre, Montpelier, or St. Johnsbury, Groton State Forest retains a sense of wildness and supports a variety of wildlife, including black bear, moose, deer, grouse, mink, beaver, otter, fisher, loons, and herons. A variety of fish are found in the clear ponds and streams.

        A year-round trail system connects most major points of interest. Peacham Bog Natural Area (748 acres) contains one of the larget bogs in Vermont, and is home to some interesting and unusual plants and animals. The summit of Owls Head Mountain, accessible by trail, or seasonal road that leads almost ot the top, offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area.

        The exposed bedrock found on mountain peaks here is granite, similar to that found in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The striations in this granite, and the boulders found throughout the forest, are evidence of glacial activity that occured more than 10,000 years ago. The glaciers scattered and scraped the landscape irregularly, leaving a rough topography with generally poor drainage.
        The forest's cultural history is primarily one of intensive logging, beginning in 1873 with the opening of the Montpelier and Wells River Railroad that ran through the forest. By the mid 1920's most of the timber was cut, leading to the decline the railroad. Several forest fires, especially a severe one in 1903, changed the landscape from spruce, fir and pine to red maple and yellow nad white birch common today. The Civilian Conservation Corps, encamped near Osmore Pond in the 1930's, reforested some areas with plantations of pine and spruce. Today, Groton State Forest is being managed for multiple uses by the Department of Forests, Parks, and Recreation to provide sustainable recreation, wildlife, water, and wood products.  

"Owl's Head Trail" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        This hike leads to a scenic vista of Lake Groton, Kettle Pond and the Green Mountains. Trail starts off the road from New Discovery to the Osmore Pond scenic area. Bypassing a swampy area, trail first descends and then climbs to a parking lot. The trail tot he top continues to the left, following the rocks steps of a path built by the CCC in the 1930's.

Map of Groton State Forest

Photo Album

Owl's Head (White Mountain National Forest)

Owl's Head (White Mountain National Forest)

"It is about the journey, but its important to be mindful of the destination."

Distance: 18.13 miles
Elevation: 3205 feet
Time: 11 hours, 40 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 48 4000-Footers, 52 Hike Challenge

Hike Type: Out-and-Back

The Hike

Gen and I finally had a mutually free weekend with decent weather to tackle a 4k, and with the rumored closing of Lincoln Woods next year we decided it was time to bite the bullet and hit up Owl's Head. We've both heard plenty about this hike and remote, lackluster peak, but it had to get done sometime! Our day started with a 1:55am wake-up, we parked-and-rided at 2:30am, and then started our drive up to the whites, arriving at Lincoln Woods just after 5:00am, very much in the dark. It was 38 degrees and there was a light excitement in the air as at least 10 other hiking parties were getting set up for their days, some going to Flume via Osceola, some heading up to Bondcliff, some going deep into the Pemigewasset Wilderness with full packs, and others going on a questionable journey to Owl's Head. We made use of the beautiful bathrooms, actually had five whole dollars to pay the day-use fee (we're notoriously terrible at this), and started our day with headlamps on right at 5:30am. We also appreciated how we have never seen Lincoln Woods in daylight before... "appreciated."

 

The Lincoln Woods trail was exactly as we left it a year ago (exactly a year ago, Snapchat would remind me!) after hiking out of Bondcliff - flat and featureless. It was very calm and chilly this morning, with headlamps a few hundred ahead and behind us. Light slowly started to appear through the trees, and we saw some faint but beautiful colors at the Hurricane Irene washout 0.7 miles in. Further down there was another view with a little more light now looking towards the Bonds - really beautiful. We played leapfrog with a few hikers as we each took time to enjoy the peaceful views as the woods woke up around us. 

 

There is a bridge that is out 1.8 miles in which requires a small rock hop which was easy peasy, and then we passed the trailhead for Black Pond, which has the popular bushwhack to avoid the large water crossings, but we decided to not tempt fate and continue on the marked trails (which was certainly a choice). As we approached the Franconia Falls Trail and the bridge over Franconia Brook there is a series of two signs 200ft. apart saying "How many paces is 200 feet? Start here." (My answer was 77). Then we hit the real pinnacle of the Lincoln Woods Trail - the bridge over Franconia Brook. There is a great view upstream toward Mt. Flume, and the sun was hitting the peak just as we crossed the bridge, illuminating the beautiful early fall yellows. We took a short break after the bridge to remove some layers and get ready to explore some new territory. We officially entered the Pemigewasset Wilderness and turned onto the Franconia Brook trail. 

 

The Franconia Brook Trail is more or less an extension of Lincoln Woods with a few more interesting features, but overall very gentle along old railroad beds (Gen asked if there was a patch for trails that used to be railroads - honestly sounds kind of cool). We were very alone on this stretch, only passing one backpacker heading towards Lincoln Woods. There were a few ponds/bogs/swamps (I never know the difference or which is which), and one had a really beautiful view of Owl's Head in the distance. This trail also crossed the Camp 9 brook not once, not twice, but three times! All the crossings were decently easy - I only got splashed once. It was here where Gen broke out her gummy bears too, which was incredibly vital to our success. At this point, we really felt like we were cruising. Lincoln Woods went super quickly since miles in the dark do not count, and the 1.7 miles of Franconia Brook Trail also flew by with the different features and crossings breaking up the longer stretches. 

 

Then... the fun began! There is a large junction where the Lincoln Brook Trail begins, turning left off of the Franconia Brook Trail. The trail initially stuck to the status quo of nice and easy, and then we started to hear the sound of running water, and THEN we were staring at the daunting Franconia Brook. We debated what to do - barefoot, socks, or shoes - do we cross where the trail is or walk around to find somewhere better - do we turn around?! We eventually decided to keep boots on and ford the river, pretty much connecting the dots between the trail on either side. This water was cold, moving quickly, and the rocks were slick. I think we made the right choice keeping shoes on, because I fear I would have easily broken my toes without them. Toward the end of the crossing, the water got mid-thigh deep and definitely had me feeling nervous, but I made it to the other side in one piece. Gen froze up at that spot and it was really nerve wracking to watch, but she pushed on and we both made it out physically unscathed, quite wet, and slightly emotionally damaged. We took a moment to regroup, I wrung out my socks, Gen had previously tightened her waterproof boots to see if she should prevent water from getting in (nope), so she loosened her boots back and dumped out the water, and we continued on our journey!

 

I knew from reading the guidebooks that the Lincoln Brook crossing that was soon coming up would also be difficult, but not as bad as Franconia Brook. We leap-frogged with a group of four hikers for the second time and hiked through the truly beautiful woods to our next crossing. Lincoln Brook was still a serious crossing, but felt like a walk in a very wet park compared to what we had just done. Only got knee deep, which was more than welcome at this point. The trail then parallels the Lincoln Brook for a while and is incredibly wet, but we truly did not care at this point since we were already soaked. With the wetness, the trail was very scenic, and I imagine in a few days it'll be beautiful with peak foliage. The Lincoln Brook is very loud for most of it, which creates a really beautiful ambiance. We passed a few more backpackers on their way out of the woods, and did another round of leap frog with some other hikers. Through the trees on the left the silhouette of Owl's Head seemed to be taunting us as we circled around the base. 

 

The back half of the Lincoln Brook Trail starts with what I dubbed the "roller coaster" - a series of small ups and downs through some muddy terrain, and then there are two more water crossings. The Liberty Brook was an easy crossing that we probably could have rock hopped if we tried and searched, but we didn't care any more. Same with the final crossing of the Lincoln Brook (it was here that Gen discovered if she squishes her feet into a rock, water will wring out). We did see one fabulous dog do a rock hop better than any human could! The trail between the two brooks and after the final crossing was pure wet mud, but soon enough we finally found a bunch of hikers hanging out at the base of the Owl's Head Trail, marked by two small cairns (which are apparently illegal as they're marking an unofficial path in a wilderness area - I appreciated them regardless). 

 

Now the fun was really beginning! The Owl's Head path gets right to the point - starting with a rocky incline and then opens up at the base of the slide where it is 90% loose rock and gravel, making for a very interesting climb - kind of like going for a walk on the beach, but the beach is straight uphill. The vertical beach then turns a bit more ledgy, which was daunting to look at but pretty easy to get around. This part of the climb was rewarded with magnificent views of the backside of Franconia Ridge - with Flume all the way on the left, then Liberty, Little Haystack, Lincoln, and finally Lafayette on the right. When looking closely, we could even make out very, very tiny people up on the ridge. That, paired with the early foliage almost made this schlep worth it!

 

After the ledges the path dips back into the woods and climbs up a comically wet section of rocks and roots - on this day water was actively flowing down the path - that looked sketchier than it was. Footing was good beside fearing for my life. The trail finally begins to calm (key word: begins, it does not get calm for a while) at a large boulder that also serves as the beginning of the brutus bushwhack. The trail continues to climb and enters a beautiful section of moss-covered woods and finally begins to level out to a more reasonable grade. We ended up passing more people on this stretch of trail than we had seen all day! All very friendly, and we were all clearly commiserating with one another. It actually made for a fun, silly sense of community. 

 

Eventually, the trail officially hits the ridge of Owl's Head Mountain and life is good again. The path winds across the ridge with the occasional muddy section. There was one side path on the right that led to a partial view of Bondcliff that was beautiful, and further down the trail there was a very obstructed view of Lafayette through some dead trees. Finally, we knew we made it to the summit when we heard "WOOOO!" by a group of hikers who were hanging out at the summit which made both Gen and I chuckle. We were then offered some wine, and one hiker pulled a full bottle of red out of her bag - it was truly excellent.

 

We chatted with our new friends for a few minutes before starting our return trip. We played leap frog with them a few times as each of us slowed down at different sections. Things really got slow after the Brutus junction, as we had to plan each step carefully and hug every tree we could get our hands on. The final stretch of steep gravel was the slowest and sketchiest - Gen nearly killed me with falling rocks numerous times (I may be exaggerating...). One of our wine friends ended up running down this stretch which was equally impressive and insane, but I picked up my pace and found that footing actually got easier, but I had to think more. The best moment of the descent was when Gen said "okay just one more steep part then we're back," not realizing that we were actually all done and back at the cairns! You could see the relief sweep over her body here.

 

Our return trip was pretty peaceful as the two main "surprises" (Franconia Brook and the lower part of the slide) were now behind us/expected. The Lincoln Brook Trail was still pretty and extremely muddy, but again, we didn't really care since our feet were already wet. Gen did slip on the crossing of Liberty Brook with a full audience, which was a little funny (only because it was a minor crossing) and we spent some time discussing the different types of mud (sticky mud, wet wet mud, dirt suspended in water mud, sneaky mud, etc.). Most of the Lincoln Brook Trail felt like it went fairly quick, which was well appreciated. We only slowed down when we had to go back across Franconia Brook. My foot did slide a bit and I was sure this was the end, but we made it across slightly faster than the previous time. 

 

The Franconia Brook trail was quick and lovely, just as before. Very gentle, uneventful, and lonely in the good way. Lincoln Woods was very gentle, uneventful, and lonely in the bad way. It felt like it took forever, and it started to rain just after the Black Pond trail junction. We could have stopped for rain gear, but we continued on. By the time we hit the bridge we were soggy and hurting and SO happy to be done! In hindsight, I really did like this hike. I could have lived without Franconia Brook and the slide, but I'm so grateful I was able to spend time deep in the woods with one of my best friends in a place few people actually go. Owl's Head = DONE! (We later learned while having dinner at Pub 32 in Lincoln that exactly one year ago was our Hale-Zealand-Bonds adventure… I guess Lincoln Woods is now a September 25th tradition?)

Step-By-Step

• Start hike at Lincoln Woods Trailhead.
• Hike Lincoln Woods Trail in its entirety.
• At terminus, turn right onto Franconia Brook Trail.
  
• At junction with Liberty Brook Trail, turn right onto Liberty Brook Trail.
• Carefully cross Franconia and Lincoln Brooks, near the next end there are two more smaller crossings (Liberty Brook and then Lincoln Brook again).
• After last Lincoln Brook crossing, watch for two cairns marking the beginning of Owl's Head Path.
• Turn right onto Owl's Head Path, carefully hike up slide, following small cairns.
• In woods, path is clear, follow path to the summit.
• Retrace steps back to the car.

"Lincoln Woods Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

Lincoln Wood Trail runs for 2.9mi along the west side of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, from the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) to a footbridge over Franconia Brook, forming a central artery from which several trails diverge and lead to various destinations near and in the western part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Lincoln Woods Trail follows the wide bed of a logging railroad that last operated in 1948. The trail begins at a large parking area with USFS information center on the north side of the road (sign: Lincoln Woods), just east of the highway bridge over the East Branch, 5.6mi from the information center at I-93, Exit 32 in Lincoln and 0.3mi beyond the Hancock Campground. This trail receives extremely heavy use, and camping is strictly regulated (See p. 151 for camping regulations). The area along the East Branch was heavily damaged by the 2011 storm, and in many places, the high, steep riverbanks have been severely undercut, creating a serious hazard for hikers who approach too close to the edge. 

Note: The suspension footbridge that crossed the East Branch 5.4mi from the Lincoln Woods trailhead was removed in 2009. Advanced route planning is essential. If you are starting your hike at Lincoln Woods, be sure to start on the correct side of the East Branch, depending on your destination. [...]. Do not rely on crossing the river at either the Franconia Brook Tentsite or the site of the former suspension bridge. A former 0.7mi section of the Wilderness Trail on the north side of the river and west of the bridge site has been closed. (This bridge removal does not affect the suspension bridge location at the Lincoln Woods Trailhead). 

Leaving the parking lot, Lincoln Woods runs across the deck of the information center and descends a wooden stairway to the left, swings left past a kiosk and crosses the East Branch on a suspension bridge, then turns right and follows the railroad bed along the river, climbing almost imperceptibly. At 0.7mi the trail skis to the left of a major washout from the 2011 storm, with a view over the river to Mt. Hitchcock. Soon the trail crosses Osseo Brook over a culvert and follows it upstream, and at 1.4mi Osseo Trail diverges left to follow Osseo Brook up its valley. Lincoln Woods Trail soon passes the old logging camp 8 clearing on the left, and at 1.8mi, by a piece of old rail, the trail comes close to the river’s edge, where a fine view upstream to Bondcliff can be obtained from the rocks just off the trail. 

Soon the trail crosses Birch Island Brook on a bridge, and a long straightaway leads to the jct with Black Pond Trail on the left at 2.6mi. At 2.9mi, just before the bridge across Franconia Brook, Franconia Falls Trail diverges left. From this jct, Lincoln Woods Trail descends ahead to cross Franconia Brook on a footbridge. About 50yd beyond the Franconia Brook footbridge, Lincoln Woods Trail ends at the Pemigewasset Wilderness boundary. Here, Franconia Brook Trail climbs the bank on the left (north) and Bondcliff Trail (formerly a section of Wilderness Trail) diverges right (east). (Note: Use of a former route leading from the north end of the footbridge to a crossing of the East Branch is discouraged because the step stones have mostly been swept away, and the river crossing is often dangerous). 

"Franconia Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

This trail runs from a jct. With Lincoln Woods Trail and Bondcliff Trail, 2.9 mi. from the Kancamagus Highway, to Garfield Ridge Trail, 0.9 mi. east of the summit of Mt. Garfield, thus connecting the Pemigewasset East Branch valley with the Franconia-Garfield ridge crest. Practically the entire Franconia Brook Trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The many significant brook crossings may be difficult in high water. 

The trail diverges north from the jct. about 50 yd. beyond the footbridge across Franconia Brook, at the boundary of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, and climbs up a steep bank to an old railroad grade, which the trail follows north. The trail crosses Camp 9 Brook at 0.5 mi. and 0.7 mi., and swings right at 1.0 mi. off the railroad grade onto a muddy bypass around a section flooded by an enthusiastic beaver colony, with glimpses of Owl’s Head Mtn. across the swamp. The trail crosses Camp 9 Brook again, turns sharply left back along the brook (avoid the beaten path leading ahead into another swamp), climbs its bank, and soon rejoins the railroad grade, turning sharply right onto the grade at 1.3 mi. In the reverse direction, take care to make the left turn off the railroad grade and the right turn at the brook crossing. The trail continues to the jct. with Lincoln Brook Trail, which diverges left (west) at 1.7 mi. 

[...].

"Lincoln Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

The trail begins and ends on Franconia Brook Trail, and together these two tails make a complete circuit around the base of Owl’s Head Mtn. The south jct. is 1.7 mi. north of the bridge over Franconia Brook, and the north jct. is near 13 Falls Campsite, 5.2 mi. from the bridge. (Caution: crossing of Franconis Brook and the first crossing of Lincoln Brook - may be very difficult and potentially dangerous at high water. North of the jct. with Owl’s Head Path, sections of this trail may be difficult to follow.) The entire trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

Turning left (west) off Franconia Brook Trail at the south jct., Lincoln Brook Trail leads southwest through the woods above an area flooded by beavers then descends gradually and bears right onto an old railroad bed just before the crossing of Franconia Brook at 0.5 mi. In another 0.4 mi., after crossing a minor brook, the trail crosses Lincoln Brook from the north to the south side. These two major crossings are not easy even at  moderate water levels and are very difficult and potentially dangerous in high water, at which time other hiking options should be considered. If water levels are high, it may be safer for hikers who are traveling south on Lincoln Brook Trail from the Owl’s Head area to bushwhack south along the west side of Lincoln Brook and Franconia Brook, at times following obscure paths, eventually reaching either Franconia Falls Trail or Black Pond Trail. 

Beyond the Lincoln Brook crossing, Lincoln Brook Trail follows the brook upstream on a long northward curve, at 1.8 mi. passing the first of several small but attractive cascades. The trail traverses a rough section along the bank then crosses a brook at 2.2 mi. After a short climb it bears left onto an old railroad grade that is muddy in places and then crosses the larger Liberty Brook at 2.8 mi. Soon the trail swings left and right through the small Camp 12 clearing, climbs left to bypass a muddy stretch, rejoins the road, and crosses Lincoln Brook (sometimes difficult) to the east side at 3.0 mi. After a rougher stretch, at 3.4 mi. The trail passes the jct. On the right with Owl’s Head Path, marked only by a cairn, beyond which Lincoln Brook Trail receives much less use. It climbs the slope well above the brook, becoming rough at times, then descends to cross Lincoln Brook again at 4.3 mi. 

"Owl’s Head Path" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)

This unofficial, unmaintained path ascends the slide on the west side of this remote mountain, starting from Lincoln Brook Trail 3.4 mi. from its south jct. with Franconia Brook Trail and 0.4 mi. beyond the second crossing of Lincoln Brook. At the slide, Lincoln Brook is nearly on the west, and the steep mountainside rises immediately to the east. In 2016 this jct. was marked by a cairl, but USFS regulations prohibit the marking of unofficial paths in Wilderness Areas, so hikers should be prepared to find the beginning of the path - and the path itself - without signs or other markings. The path begins just beyond a mossy flat area to the right of the trail. Caution: The slide is very steep and rough, and though considerably overgrown, it is still potentially dangerous due to loose rock and smooth ledges, especially when wet. Great care should be taken both ascending and descending. 

Leaving Lincoln Brook Trail, Owl’s Head Path climbs through dense evergreens, briefly to the right of the narrow slide track, then jonis it and soon emerges on a steep swath of gravel and loose rock. Owl’s Head Path quickly reaches the open part of the slide, which provides good views of the Lincoln Brook valley and Franconia Ridge. The slide has no well defined path; the most-used route, marked by occasional cairns, follows a winding course with a few ledge scrambles. Open ledges at about 2,950 ft. offer the best views and a convenient spot for a rest stop. Above here, one route enters the woods on the right and follows a steep and eroded beaten path, while another climbs the upper open part of the slide to the left. Above the top of the slide, 0.3 mi. and 700 ft. above Lincoln Brook Trail, is a small spring spurting from the rock like a fountain, which unfortunately is not completely reliable. The two routes rejoin, and the path continues up a very steep and rough pitch on an old section of the slide track that trees have reclaimed. 

Higher up, the path exits to the left from the track (on the descent, avoid a beaten path continuing ahead at a point where the main path bears right and down) and climbs steeply northeast on a well-trodden but very rough footway usually littered with numerous blowdowns. The path continues climbing steadily up to the ridge, which is reached at 0.7 mi., then swings left and runs near the crest with minor ups and downs. At 0.8 mi., after climbing a short pitch, the path crosses a small clearing at the top of a 4,005-ft. Knob, which had been regarded as the true summit for many years. The well-beaten path continues meandering north along the ridge, descending slightly and rising easily to the true summit (4,025 ft.), marked by a cairn in 2016, at 1.0 mi. (This or other markings may not always be present in the future.)

The path continuing north from the “old” true summit to the “new” true summit is now easy to follow for experienced hikers, although there are occasional faint paths that diverge and merge; in particular, in the reverse direction there is a fork where a false path diverges left and the correct path leads to the right. Interesting though restricted views are sometimes obtained around the summit area from blowdown patches; if this summit was not densely wooded, it would afford one of the finest views in the mountains due to its strategic location in the center of the great horseshoe formed by the ridge running from the Franconias to the Bonds. 

"Pemigewasset Wilderness" from Wilderness.net

"Nary a road blemishes New Hampshire's largest Wilderness, a bastion of hardwoods further insulated by a series of raggedly beautiful peaks that extend beyond the tree line and drain in-to the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River. If you make it past these welcome obstacles, prepare to enjoy New England backpacking at its best. The "Pemi" is so secluded, in fact, that I've run across many a moose, deer, even a fox and a black bear. Loggers removed almost the entire forest cover between 1890 and 1940, but 55 years of regeneration have eliminated virtually all signs of that era. The sharp, narrow Franconia Range and Twin Range form a horseshoe around the western portion of the area, with the Franconia threatening to challenge the Presidential Range for the title of Premier Peak. Mount Bond's crags and ledges demarcate the central northern boundary, and the Bondcliffs, just southwest of Mount Bond, quietly flaunt a vista across mountains and forests that show no trace of human interference. This is one of the few places in New Hampshire that can confess to boasting such a flawless view. The Wilderness flattens in the eastern portion, an area sometimes referred to as the Desolation Region for having withstood devastating logging operations. But despite the bad rap, the Desolation Region contains lovely Thoreau Falls, Ethan Pond, and Shoal Pond. The Lincoln Woods Trail leaves a parking lot on the Kancamagus Highway, then crosses the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River on a 160-foot-long suspension bridge. At that point it turns east to enter the Wilderness and become the Wilderness Trail, which continues to travel upstream for a combined total of about nine miles along the East Branch. This trail, possibly the most trekked upon in the White Mountains, follows an old railway bed. Camping is forbidden within one-quarter mile of the Wilderness Trail. At least nine well-maintained trails leave the Wilderness Trail to provide foot access to the area. The Appalachian Trail follows the northern border."

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