Pico Mountain via Deer Leap Overlook, Long Trail, & Sherburne Pass Trail (Green Mountain National Forest)
Hike Type: Loop
Distance: 10.82 miles
Elevation: 3,120 feet
My Time: 4 hours, 49 minutes (4 hours, 42 minutes moving)
Book Time: 6 hours, 58 minutes
Parking: Parking for plenty of cars at Sherburne Pass/Deer Leap trailhead.
Hiking Challenges: New England 50 Finest, Long Trail Side-to-Side
Hiking Challenges: New England 50 Finest, Long Trail Side-to-Side
The Hike
First Day of Summer!
I didn't realize it was the first day of summer until I got here and thought "huh the sun sure is up?" Emma, Sarah, and I got lunch at Martells at The Red Fox near Smuggs, and then I had a scenic (but painfully slow) drive (behind a confused Tesla) through Smuggler's Notch. I wasn't sure what my hiking plans would be, but after scouring the weather I ultimately decided on Pico - a mountain I grew to love this past ski season and one I'd been interested in hiking since I had so much fun skiing it (and it's on the New England Hundred Highest list!).
I drove past a fox near Stowe and had a shockingly easy drive on I-89. There were some moody skies between Exits 6 and 3 with showers clearly in the distance, but they all seemed to be north of Pico, so I should be fine? I wasn't going to let myself talk myself out of it regardless. Once I was near I drove through a veil of rain that slowly revealed Pico in it's sunny, green glory! I parked at the Sherburne Pass trailhead right at the height of land on Sherburne Pass. It took exactly two episodes of "Love Trapped," the podcast to arrive (I am HOOKED). There were a few other cars (and a van) at the trailhead. It was breezy out with temperatures in the low 70s - I was manifesting dry skies, but I was also accepting that I'd likely get rained on. I got suited up, read the historical marker right at the trailhead, and got my hike started!
"LONG TRAIL LODGE
Long Trail Lodge was built on the south side of Sherburne Pass in 1923 as a gift to the Green Mountain Club by Mortimer Proctor, former club president and later governor of Vermont. The rustic-style clubhouse, built of timber and stone from the site, privided overnight accommodation for members and guests. Managed by Treadway Inns since 1933, it first welcomed skiers for the 1938-39 season and added Deer Leap Chalet as a winter annex in 1938. The lodge remained a popular destination until destroyed by fire in 1968. The Long Trail, conceived by the Green Mountain Club in 1910 and completed in 1930, follows the spine o fthe Green Mountains from Massachusetts to the Canadian broder. The original route of the trail passed dthrough the lodge.
Vermont Division for Historic Preservation - 2024" from Historical Sign on US-4
[2:48pm - Start of Hike]
[2:49pm - Sherburne Pass Trail]
I started by RUNNING across US-4 towards the Long Trail Lodge and entered the woods on the right toward the Sherburne Pass Trail and Deer Leap. There was a split in the trail, with a climber's route on the left and the hiking trail on the right. I entered the woods, relieved myself, realized I hadn't started my watch, and almost followed an old section of abandoned trail - doing great! The Sherbune Pass Trail was pretty rugged without gaining much elevation with super steep cliffs up on the left. I hiked past a bunch of really cool looking rocks and descended slightly. US-4 was super loud even from the trail.
The recent storms had dome some damage to the woods in central Vermont, and there were some VERY recent blowdowns here to show for it! I passed a sign at a low point that encouraged hikers to stay on the trail and to avoid cutting switchbacks. The trail was wet but not nearly as wet as it could have been with recently storms. I crossed paths with a friendly hiking family as I climbed up a steeper and more rugged section, which led to the junction with the Appalachian Trail!
[3:02pm - Appalachian Trail]
[3:03pm - Deer Leap Trail]
I was only on the Appalachian Trail for a minute on a flat stretch and then the Deer Leap Trail started just after. I turned onto the Deer Leap Trail, listening to what I assume was a sportsmen's club in the distance (or at least I hope it was!), and smiled as the sun came out from behind the clouds. I could feel the humidity in the air, but overall it was pretty comfortable. On my journey, I heard what MUST have been a loud truck on US-4... or...
I did check my weather app and it did say that there were storms in the area, but it was looking okay near me? Onward!
The trail climbed a bit more and then leveled out in a wet, but not muddy, section. I heard the mysterious booming truck again, but also an airplane? Strange things were happening in Sherburne Pass! The trail slightly descended to cross some muddy boards before easily climbing again to the junction with the Overlook Spur.
[3:12pm - Deer Leap Overlook Spur]
[3:16pm - Deer Leap Overlook]
I crossed paths with a woman and her puppy at the junction, said my hello, and then continued hiking through some beautiful woods with tree views to Deer Leap Mountain on the right. The trail started to descend, and then descended more (I was being dramatic, it wasn't that much), crossed a couple of bridges, and then opened up to the overlook with truly a spectacular view of Pico! There was a blue "X" on the highet point and I couldn't help but notice a DARK cloud looming behind Pico... The dark cloud started to rumble, so I got myself right back into the woods. I thought I MIGHT get spared based on the wind direction... We'll see...
I had a nice and easy return to the Deer Leap Trail, which would lead 0.9 miles to Willard Gap, per the sign.
[3:21pm - Deer Leap Trail]
The Deer Leap Trail STEEPLY descended from here, and it was clear that most people hike the overlook as an out-and-back. There was a steep, slimy scramble that was a little confusing to follow. I was just happy that I decided to the hike in this direction, so I'll end with an easier descent off of Pico versus having to haul my tired body up this mess. The trail became narrower and buggier, traversing a super wet area and climbing up a little stream. I crossed paths with two... casual hikers, and gave death glares at some screaming blue jays that were yelling at me.
[3:35pm - Deer Leap Mountain summit area]
I worked my way over a few blowdowns as the trail steepened. I wrote in my notes "this little side quest of mine packs a punch!" The trail skirted the summit cone and left the National Forest Boundary. There were clouds overhead again, but it wasn't like, dark? I was feeling less worried. There WAS a lovely breeze, though!
There were some tree views on the left and cool rocks on the right before the descent really began, and I managed to accidentally follow a steep needly herd path which was NOT the trail. Thankfully, I noticed quickly and soon got back on the real trail. I entered a sea of hip-high ferns, but the footpath was clear. The trail became a muddy stream in a flatter spot, which provided me my first real boot-sucking mud experience of the year!
[3:49pm - Appalachian Trail]
I descended a little bit more and soon came to the Appalachian Trail, which I thought was still both the LT/AT, but nope! I turned left onto the AT right as my watch pinged two miles. Naturally, the trail was much wider now. I walked over a stream through this wonderuflly flat strech of trail, which was a nice break from the down.
[3:53pm - Willard Gap, Maine Junction, & Long Trail/Appalachian Trail]
Soon after, I came to "Maine Junction," which took me too long to realize why it was called that. This is the spot where the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail split! I continued straight onto the LT/AT, the Long Trail Northbound turned right, and there was a closed/abandoned trail on the right. This was also Willard Gap... I think. I noticed there was some construction going on at the junction, too. A gravel foundation bed with two boxes? Maybe a kiosk was going in? I also thought it would be a fun spot for a dual-privy, but probably not that.
The LT/AT began to descend at very easy grades from this point before gently rising to cross some wet spots and streams. The forest here was really pretty with lush, low undergrowth filling in the space between trees. The trail crossed some form of property boundary before descending again, providing a glimpse through the trees to US-4. I almost stepped on an eft as I was trying to figure out what kind of undergrowth was surrounding me - turns out it was the wood nettle! I've only experienced nettle stings once before, and I do not want to deal with it again! Thankfully I escaped unscathed.
I was sad that I forgot to bring chapstick with me, but I was happy that the knot in my hip belt was holding strong. I passed some form of a backpacker with an external frame pack in a super wet spot as I continued on into a shadier forest which featured the ROARS of US-4 as a soundtrack.
I passed a few signs (bear country warning, road crossing warning, and a trail relocation warning, even though the trail was relocated in 1999), a few slugs, and another backapcker as I prepared to cross US-4!
"YOU ARE ENTERING BEAR COUNTRY
This area has an active bear population. Bears have approached tents and shelters, eaten hikers' food, and destroyed hikers' equipment.
Observe these guidelines to keep your party safe:
- Follow all food-storage procedures if staying at designated overnight sites
- Use bear boxes where provided to store food and scented items
- If primitive camping, prepare food and hang bear-bags at least 100 feet from campsites
- Pack out all garbage and food scraps
- Do not feed bears or approach bears
- If you encounter a bear, do not corner it. Make noise to scare the bear away. Back away slowly.
Please report any bear encounters to the Green Mountain Club by calling (802) 244-7037."
"Caution: road crossing.
Cars on route 4 drive fast.
Wait for a break in traffic.
Walk across the road straight (not on a diagonal)."
"Notice of trail relocation
- The Long Trail and the Appalachian Trail hav ebeen relocated in this area.
- This relocation puts trails on public land in a permanently proected corridor.
- The former route of the LT/AT remains open and will always be available to the hiking public. It is now called the Sherburne Pass Trail.
- The new LT/AT trailhead is on US 4 one mile west of Sherburne Pass."
[4:14pm - LT/AT crosses US-4]
I, again, SPRINTED across US-4 and got right back onto a trail, which first walked through a wildflower roadside area before turning right to pass more wildflowers (turning left led to a large parking area). I noticed I was also on the Catamount Ski Trail right here as I went back into the woods, passing a kiosk and crossing a bridge over a nice brook.
[4:18pm - LT/AT/Catamount Ski Trail Departs]
The Catamount Trail continued straight ahead as the LT/AT turned left, passing a porcupine warning!
"Dog Danger: Pico is operpopulated with prickly porcupines!
A local ceterinarian reports that he has de-quilled many dogs that were off leash and encountered porcupines on Pico. Apparently the porcupine population population has surged. If you aren't sure your dog knows to avoid porcupines and don't want your hike ruined by an encounter, please leash your dog."
I remembered seeing the same sign when I hiked up Killington last year! The LT/AT continued on flat ground, traversing some boards, and then began to easily gain elevation again. The trail had been really nicely graded at this point. I was back in a similar woods as the other side of US-4, but instead of nettles, it was filled with ferns. There was a nice breeze with many birds singing all around. The humidity was a lot, but thankfully it wasn't too hot out.
I started to catch some afternoon spiderwebs as I maneuvered some more wet spots, eventually crossing with a duo. One of the hikers was manhandling a blowdown off of the trail - thank you, stranger! I began to climb again, still at a reasonable grade. The trail turned with the contour of the mountain, zigging and zagging along. I passed another eft around a section of small streams before rambling through an area full of boulders. There was one spooky cave with room for a couple of folks laying down!
I hurt my own feelings when I checked my progress - I had SO MUCH more to climb! Oh well. I began to climb with steeper switchbacks in a wild area. I could hear running water off to the right as I zig zagged up the mountain, but never actually saw it. There was a nice walking break after a few minutes of climbing and I heard... an airplane? I think it actually was an airplane this time! I eventually crossed the stream that I had been hearing - a wobbly rock almost took me out! I wiggled around some more new blowdowns and then came up to the shelter that I had completely forgotten about!
[5:02pm - Churchill Scott Shelter spur]
I followed the blue blaze to the shelter, but I heard people at the shelter so I just swapped my water bottles at a tentside near the privy and then continued on my merry way! I didn't prepare any water for this hike, so I had to buy a gallon as I drove through Stowe, which was all fine, but I missed my Nuun!
[5:07pm - LT/AT]
Continuing on, I lamented about my climb not even being halfway done, but I think the problem was less that I was tired or bored, but more than my internal hiking clock is not used to hikingin the late afternoon. I did find myself enjoying drinking actual water versus electrolytes... The LT/AT continued to zig zag up the mountain, passing a sunny, overgrown spot with the occasional peek-a-view to who knows what. It was still very hazy outside, but significantly less cloudy. Will I make it out dry? The answer is no, but because I'm sweaty. Rain? We'll see!
I said hello to my third eft of the day as I climbed more consistently toward a false peak-ish area that provided views to the sky through the trees, but I still had a ways to go. The trail passed an overgrown viewpoint and a downy woodpecker before rambling through an area of overgrowth. I was growing impatient/tired as I continued climbing via zig-zags with occasional walking breaks. My watch pinged six miles and I entered a more mixed forest that smelled simply wonderful. The trail leveled out for a bit here - the flat dirt felt amazing on my tired feet.
I could just barely make out Killington through the trees as the trail began to undulate. I heard either a crow or raven absolutely screaming through the trees. I scraped my way through an area of thin pines with scratchy undergworth (fir wave??) before flattening, descending, flattening again... I was REALLY getting tired of the endlessness! I had to physically crawl under a blowdown and just as I complained about another flat/down, I hit the junction with the Sherburne Pass Trail! Thank goodness.
[5:57pm - Sherburne Pass Trail]
This junction gave me a whole lot of information on a bunch of different signs! It was 0.3 miles to the Pico Camp, 0.7 miles to the Pico Summit, and 3.2 to Sherburne Pass - the three bits I cared about! I could just barely see the top of Pico through the trees and I accepted that I might have to race the sun down the mountain.
The Sherburne Pass Trail was a narrower blue-blazed trail. To my dismay, I continued to descend through what felt like a wild jungle.
[6:03pm - Sherbune Pass Trail/Killington-Pico Interconnect]
After a few minutes of descending, the Sherburne Pass Trail crossed the Killington-Pico Interconnect, which was really cool! It's just a wide gravel road, but it felt like I was somewhere where I shouldn't have been, even though it was totally okay! The trail went back into the woods, which were exceptionally moody. I soon passed a "water source down trail" sign, and then I arrived at Pico Camp!
[6:08pm - Pico Camp & Pico Link]
Pico Camp was a small cabin with a closed door, but it didn't looked locked. I was not going to f- around and find out, so I left it alone! There was a privy out in the woods a bit on the same contour. From here, it would be 0.4 miles to the summit!
[6:12pm - Pico Link/Killington-Pico Interconnect]
I climbed up through a rocky stream and then a short, steeper push to cross the Interconnect for a second time, providing a view to Killington through the trees. Back in the woods, the trail continued to be steeper and wet. This push felt like the final push up Killington, even though it was less steep (still steep, to be clear, but the push to Killington was STEEP steep). I crossed paths with a human - the first in a while - and I wrote in my notes that "this climb is a Grade-A doozy."
[6:20pm - Pico Link/Ski Area]
After some questioning of my life choices, I popped out onto the Fourty-Niner ski trail, which I had skied before! I briefly hiked through the woods again before opening up onto the other fork of Fourty-Niner. It was fun to be somewhere I had been before! I worked my way up on the footpath between the tall grasses, which led right to the top of the Sherburne Express Quad, providing a magnificent view.
[6:24pm - Pico Mountain Summit]
Behind the patrol shack, I spooked a snowshoe hare and found the true summit, marked by a grassy cairn. On a nearby communications tower, some ravens were having a wild conversation. The bugs slowly moved in, surrounding my head in a way that made me feel like I was being swallowed by the air around me. Unpleasant! I throught about skiing the old Poma line and worked my way back to the lift. I loved seeing Abraham, Ellen, Camel's Hump, and Mansfield, and I could see Killington behind me!
[6:36pm - Pico Link]
[6:37pm - Pico Link enters woods]
[6:42pm - Pico Link/Killington-Pico Interconnect]
The bugs quickly went from bad to worse, so I BOOKED it back into the woods. I almost died on some wet spots of the Pico Link, but soon I was running through the Interconnect and back safe at the Pico Camp. I turned left to finish the last bit of the Sherburne Pass Trail.
[6:45pm - Sherburne Pass Trail]
[6:54pm - Sherburne Pass Trail/Summit Glades View]
I passed the water source from a previous trail sign and then the Sherburne Pass Trail began a lovely ramble around the contour. This ramble brought me to one of my favorite trails on Pico - Summit Glades! The view from here was just delightful, especially in the late afternoon sun. The trail actually started descending at this point, and I was thrilled to remember that becuase of how I did this loop, I would be descending significantly less than what I climbed.
I was feeling an immense sense of joy and gratitude when I realized that not only did I not get struck by lightning on this hike, but I didn't get rained on, AND it turned out to be a stunning afternoon! I hiked down a series of long switchbacks at a reasonable grade and per tradition, the trail then flattened out and crossed 50 streams (more like 5-6). I hiked over a big, bright eft and hurt my own feelings (again) by checking the map (again).
Thankfully a breeze brought me back to life. I was having truly a wonderful time, but I was so upset that it was 7:15pm on a Sunday and I was dreadfully far from home. I then said to myself "don't Monday my Sunday," and I felt better! I crossed a little spur onto the Bushwhacker ski trail, but I didn't bother with it and kept my sights set on the car.
The trail got wet and slippery afterwards, and after some more hiking turned a corner and I could hear US-4! Naturally, this was the worst section of trail I had hiked all day. I wondered if the upper bit had been relocated, because this was a wet, eroded mess (and I'd later learn that this used to be the Appalachian Trail!).
[7:35pm - Sherburne Pass Trail/Trail Register]
I arrived at a trail register at a junction with an old, grassy road. I turned left and basically ran out of the woods to the parking area. This was a FANTASTIC hike!
[7:38pm - End of Hike]
As I packed up the car, I noticed someone rock climbing onto Deer Leap! That was fun to see.
I worked my way home, and noticed a lot of damage in the Woodstock area, and then I realized I was driving right through the tornado path! I got a few pictures along the river - the damage was intense.
I eventually got home just before 11pm. I was TIRED, but what a great day.
Step-by-Step
- Park at Sherbune Pass/Deer Leap trailhead.
- Cross US-4 and start hike on Sherburne Pass Trail (N).
- At terminus, turn left onto Appalachian Trail.
- At jct. just after, turn left onto Deer Leap Trail.
- At jct., turn left onto Deer Leap Overlook.
- At overlook, turn around.
- At terminus, turn left onto Deer Leap Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto Appalachian Trail.
- At Maine Junction, continue onto Long Trail/Appalachian Trail.
- Cross US-4, continue on LT/AT.
- At jct., turn left onto Sherburne Pass Trail.
- At jct., turn left onto Pico Link.
- Summit Pico Mountain, turn around.
- At terminus of Pico Link, turn left onto Sherburne Pass Trail.
- Follow Sherburne Pass Trail to car.
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