Showing posts with label VA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label VA. Show all posts

Saturday, September 21, 2024

Appalachian Trail via South Ridge & Ambassador Whitehouse Trail (Sky Meadows State Park)

Appalachian Trail via South Ridge & Ambassador Whitehouse Trail (Sky Meadows State Park)

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Distance: 6.13 miles
Elevation: 1,112 feet
Time: 2 hours, 7 minutes
Hiking Challenges: N/A

The Hike
I was in Virginia for a friend's wedding and had a few hours to kill, so naturally I found a state park and went on a little adventure! I dropped the bridesmaids off at the wedding venue in the morning, unforunately had to drive to a Walmart to buy socks (oops), and then I was off! It was a cloudy day, but no rain was in the forecast. When I pulled into Sky Meadows State Park, I paid the $10 fee and parked on a grassy lot near the Historic Area (the woman at the entry gate said "you'll know where to park when you're there" - she was right). The park was relatively busy, but it was late morning on a decently nice Saturday. I parked just after 11 and got myself ready for my adventure! It was 74 degrees, humid, and very buggy (it was wild being back in summer when I've been fully enjoying New England fall!). 


"Sky Meadows State Park"
https://www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/sky-meadows
Rich in history, this park provides recreational offerings that engage visitors and help connect them with farming practices that formed its unique pastoral landscape. This 1,860-acre park has scenic views, woodlands and the rolling pastures of a historic farm that captures the colonial through modern life of the Crooked Run Valley. Nature and history programs are offered year-round. Hiking, picnicking, fishing and primitive hike-in camping for families and groups are favorite activities in this peaceful getaway on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The park has 10.5 miles of bridle trails, 22 miles of hiking trails, 9 miles of bike trails and Appalachian Trail access.


I found a loop on AllTrails that linked with the Appalachian Trail (we were north of Shenandoah National Park) through the "Blue Ridge Backcountry" section of the state park, so that became my goal. I walked along the remainder of the road before getting to the actual trailhead, and had to stop at the bathrooms (real bathrooms and porta-potties) on the way. The main Historic Area has a cute little homestead with farmlands surrounding - it was really pretty!


"History Gone Wild at Sky Meadow State Park: Boston Mill Road"
https://www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/document/SK-History-Gone-Wild-Handout-Info.pdf
As you walk along what is today Boston Mill Road Trail, imagine it as it once was, a thriving corridor, along which farmers would transport harvested grains and crops to the nearby mills, and to the town of Paris. Established in 1823, the road was named after nearby Bosetyn’s Mill.

"Boston Mill Road Trail"
from trailside kiosk.
Imagine farmers transporting harvested crops along this cooridoor, once the Boston Mill Road, established in 1823. The road, named after Bosetyn's Mill, connected the village of Paris and surrounding farms to the local mills in this valley, the Crooked Run Valley.


Now continuing along the road toward the trails, I noticed the upper ridge was still in the clouds - what else is new! Soon enough, I turned left onto the first "trail" (farm road), the green-blazed and memorably-named Boston Hill Road. Boston Hill Road was a beautiful road lined with trees and covered with Eastern Black Walnuts. There were lovely views out to the surrounding farmland and forward on the undulating road. I made an executive decision to take the planned loop in reverse due to a large party going the way AllTrails suggested (AllTrails suggested counter-clockwise, I decided to go clockwise). 


"Restoring the American Chestnut"
from trailside kiosk.
For thousands of years the American Chestnut was the most dominant tree in a forest that stretched from Florida to Maine and from the Ohio Valley to the Carolina Piedmont. Imagine a wooded landscape in which one of every four trees could grow to more than 10 feet across and well over 100 feet tall.
The American chestnut tree was a particularly useful tree. Native people made use of the nuts as a food staple and bark and roots to make medicine.
European settlers used the light, strong, rot resistant wood for cribs to coffins and about everything in between and the nuts were not only a valuable livestock food but were often gathered by the wagonload and sold by street vendors freshly roasted. The chestnuts were also a primary food source for wildlife such as turkey, squirrels, bear and deer.
In 1904 an asiatic fungus known as the Chestnut Blight (Cryphonectria parasitica) was identified in New York's Bronx Zoo. By 1950 the chestnut blight had spread across the entire native range, killing an estimated 4 billion chestnut trees. The blight kills the tree by feeding on the cambium under the bark restricting the flow of nutrients within the tree.
In 1983 the American Chestnut Foundation was founded with the mission to restore the American Chestnut. Blight resistant hybrids have been grown that are 93.75% American Chestnut and 6.25% Chinese Chestnut. Sky Meadows State Park has joined with ACF and planned 4 acres of these trees in the park, giving hope that one day we can walk among these giants again. For more information or to become involved, visit: acf.org/va.

The trail signs were large posts in the ground with color-coded plaques indicating where certain trails were. There were a couple informational kiosks along the road, and I was delighted to discover that the bugs were only bad when I stopped moving. At a low-point in the road, I turned right onto my new temporary home, the South Ridge Trail.


"Natural Buffer"
from trailside kiosk.
The streamside trees before you are some of the hardest working plants in the park. In 2009 park staff and volunteers planted over 8,000 native trees consisting of hickory, walnut, beech, poplar; and different species of oak. This barrier of natural vegetation between the pasture and Gap Run, a tributary of the Chesepeake Bay, is a riparian buffer. This natural barrier keeps agricultural waste from pollution the stream and, ultimately, the Bay by blocking and absorbing animal waste, pesticides, herbicides, sediments, and excessive nutrients. The buffer also provides shelter and food for wildlife. Its shade keeps the water cool, promoting more aquatic wildlife. 
All park waterways are now protected, but at a cost. Farmland is reduced by 28 acres, descreasing food production. The future holds many of these difficult decision for us and our farmers.
For all these efforts, Sky Meadows State Park received the 2010 John Marshall Soil and Water Conservation District Award.
Relocation of fence lines separated cattle from their natural drinking source. To resolve this, the Department of Corrections' Agribusiness Program, which manages the park's cattle and haying operations, partnered in this project by installing wells, pipes, and troughs to supply water for the cows.

The wide road grade continued through a flowery meadow before turning again onto a smaller road, still covered in walnuts. Here is where I passed the first and only people of this stretch of the hike - it appeared that I had left the majority of folks back at the main area, which was a delight. 


The South Ridge Trail entered the woods temporarily and began to climb at easy to moderate grades through lush vegetation going through various stages of reforestation. I more or less power hiked through this stretch in order to get ahead of the group behind me, so I was SWEATING. I know fall had only just begun in New England, but I forgot how intense this humidity felt!


A couple of switchbacks led to a great overlook of the Historic Area, not to be confused with the "Historic Area Overlook," which was just a bit further up trail off of a spur path (worth a visit, too!). I noticed a very blue berry (not a blueberry, though), that apparealy grows on the mile-a-minute weed, which was fun to see.


The next landmark was the Snowden Ruins - some stone foundations just off-trail. There's a neat Washington Post Article about the site from 2003.


"History Gone Wild at Sky Meadows State Park: Snowden Entrance Gate"
https://www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/document/SK-History-Gone-Wild-Handout-Info.pdf
Here we can see the remnants of the entrance gate to the Snowden Manor. If it were still standing today, Snowden would be the oldest structure in that park. However, today it exists only in ruins. The Snowden farm, established by George Ayre, once incorporated approximately 500 acres. The home burned down in 1931. You may explore the Snowden ruins for yourself along South Ridge Trail.  

Continuing to follow the South Ridge Trail, which was now back on a wide road, past some bear poop, I arrived at an open grassy, flowery meadow where the George's Overlook spur trail branches off.


The George's Overlook spur was a less-traveled wide-mowed pathway through the grassy meadow. The path was super pretty, winding around the grasses and flowers, eventually opening up to an overlook area. I also noticed that the sun and sky were beginning to come out!




Once back on the South Ridge Trail, the climbing continued with good footing and a mostly open canopy. I was really enjoying my time outside in relative solitude, and to no surprise, I was also glad that I decided to make the drive instead of sitting in the hotel room all day. I hit the two-mile mark at 42 minutes and realized that I was cruising. The grades here are similar to those of the Castle in the Clouds Conservation Area in the Ossipee Mountains of New Hampshire, which allow for big miles with only medium exertion. After this two-mile mark, the South Ridge Trail begins to gradually enter the forest, ascend to a bench, and then continues along a nice walking break.


I passed the largest gray squirrel that I had ever seen as the walking break continued, with just a few gentle ups and downs. I passed what appeared to be a burnt tree that was harboring at least 100 spotted lantern flies, which was wild to see (I'm so glad they haven't found their way to New England yet). 


Shortly after the lantern fly tree, the South Ridge Trail terminates at the North Ridge Trail, which followed a footpath more steeply to the actual ridge. I crossed paths with two larger groups, noticed the clear blue skies above, and soon made it to the Appalachian Trail! I was soaked in sweat, but there was a delightful breeze. I was so pleasantly surprised with my adventure so far.


I continued my hike on the Appalachian Trail northbound, past some truly gigantic trees, and came up to a gate and a beautiful meadow. I'm guessing the gate is a property boundary, as it truly was not blocking anything. Up here, I truly understood how the name "Sky Meadows" came to be - it was beautiful! The sensational breeze continued, as well.




After the first meadow, the AT dipped back into the woods, where I passed a group discussing the politics of the Supreme Court (the first of many political conversations I overheard - that's what I get for being relatively close to DC!). I crossed paths with a few more groups as the trail easily descended into a much larger meadow-y area with beautiful views into the Virginia Piedmont valley.

I turned onto the Ambassador Whitehouse Trail, which followed a mowed path through the beautiful meadows. There were partial views but the area was wide open - still really beautiful. Only downside was that I had officially found all of the Spotted Lanterflies. You could really see little red specks flying all around the meadow, some of which enjoyed gently flying onto my body, which I did NOT like. I did enjoy stomping on the ones crawling on the ground, though!


The Paris View/Piedmont Overlook was at a turn in the trail, which provided a beautiful view down into the valley, albeit hazy. More Lanternflies were enjoying this view, so I didn't stay too long. 


"Welcome to the Piedmont Memorial Overlook"
from view kiosk.
You are looking out at the heart of the northern Virginia Piedmont, a verdant agricultural landscape stretching 17 miles between the Bull Run Mountains to the east and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the west, where you are now standing here in Fauquier County. To the south lies the Crooked Run Valley, extending toward Delaplane. To the north lies Clarke and Loudoun counties.
The rolling green hills of field and forest, dotted by historic towns and villages, and criss-crossed by gravel roads have earned the area a well-deserved reputation for its scenic beauty and historic significance, from pre-colonial times to European settlement, through the Civil War and development of moderan agriculture.
This view is no accident. For decades, private landowners have worked together with land trusts to permanently protect their property. The result is one of the largest blocks of conservation easements found anywhere in the eastern United States, ensuring that future generations will enjoy the benefits of clean air and clean water, local food, wildlife habitat, and abundant natural, scenic, and cultural resources.
The Overlook sits on top of Paris Mountain. Several freshwater springs can be found on this property which feed Gap Run, a mountain stream that flows into Goose Creek, a source of public drinking water for northern Virginia residents and an important tributary to the Potomac River.
This mountain is also part of the Crooked Run Valley Rural Historic District, which includes Ashby Gap, a historically important route to the Shenandoah Valley along what is now Rt. 50/Rt. 17.
The Preservation Alliance of Virginia once nominated the view from Ashby Gap toward Paris as one of the most endangered, calling it "the quintessential Virginia vista."


"A Demonstration of Habitat Restoration"
from view kiosk.
The Piedmont Memorial Overlook sits within a large block of privately and publicly protected land along the Blue Ridge Mountains that is a patchwork of forest, livestock pasture and mountainous fields. The land was actively farmed from the late 18th century until the recent past, and heavily grazed by cattle.
In 2012, The Piedmont Environmental Council began an extensive restoration effort on the 50-acre parcel you are standing on, first eliminating fescue and other non-native plants from the pasture, and then seeding native grasses and wildflowers. The property now serves as an active demonstration site for landowners who are interested in viewing habitat restoration practices. It hosts a native meadow, tree and shrub plantings, and a small pine savannah.
Grasslands are declining worldwide, and are one of the most endangered ecosystems on the planet. In Virginia, native grassland is being lost to land use changes like development, farming, and forest regeneration. Grassland dependent bird species are also declining rapidly as their habitat is lost. Restored meadows, like the one at the Overlook, offer refuge for these species in a changing landscape.
The native meadow is the jewel of the property, and is home to songbirds, butterflies, raptors, bees, and black bears. It was planted with 16 native wildflower species that provide forage for pollinators and habitat for grassland birds. 
PEC manages teh meadow using prescribed fire and routinely performs biodiversity surveys with out partners at Virginia Working Landscapes, a program of the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute.
Learn more at www.pecva.org/overlook.


"A Conservation Success Story"
from view kiosk.
The Piedmont Memorial Overlook sits on 50 acres owned by the Piedmonst Environmental Council, and is part of a corridor of the Blue Ridge Mountains that is permanently protected by Sky Meadows State Park, the G. Richard Thompson Wildlife Management Area, teh Appalachian National Scenic Trail, and private land under conservation easement.
In the late 1900s, this property and surrounding area was threatened by several development projects, including mountaisde housing developments and a proposed golf course. Fortunately, in 2000, PEC was able to purchase 1,235 acres with assistance from local families and foundations who support conservation in the Piedmont, including the Prince Charitable Trusts, Jacqueline B. Mars, Catherine Mellon Conover, Marie Ridder, the Ohrstrom family, the Mills family, the Whitehouse family, the Frout family, Phillip and Patricia Thomas, and many more.
Soon after purchasing the land, nearly 450 acres were transferred to the United States Department of the Interior to realign and improve the Appalachian National Scenic Trail and provide public access to this exceptional viewshed thanks to the vision and leadership of then Virginia Senator John Warner and Congressman Frank Wolf.
Over the past decade The Piedmont Environmental Council has protected nearly all of the 1,235 acres purchased in 2000, and now retains this 50-acre holding on top of Paris Mountain.
The Piedmont Memorial Overlook is now a place of reflection, where we can remember community members who spent their lives working to protect this landscape. This memorial site, conceived by William M. Backer and supported by The Piedmont Foundation, is dedicated to those friends and supporters!


"About the Piedmont Environmental Council"
from view kiosk.
Since 1972, the Piedmont Environmental Council has worked to promote and protect the natural resources, rural economy, history and beauty of the Virginia Piedmont.
As a grassroots nonprofit organization, we work hand-in-hand with local residents to conserve what they care about and improve quality of life. Rather than leave change to chance, we believe that citizens have the power to shape the future of this region for the better.
This property is a demonstration of that commitment. We hope you enjoy your visit to the Piedmont Memorial Overlook and come back often!
PEC's service territory includes nine counties and one city in the northern Piedmont of Virginia. In addition to statewide and federal policy works, we also serve as fiscal sponsor of the Coalition for Smarter Growth, an organization that focuses on land use and policy in the greater Washington D.C. area.

After the view, the trail continued back into the woods and descended more moderately to its terminus at the North Ridge Trail (I also passed a family in a deep discussion about animal poop, which made me giggle).


I followed the North Ridge Trail again for just a moment, and then I turned onto the Piedmont Overlook Trail, which initially ascended again to a stunning open meadow. I crushed some more Lanternflies and saw the group that I passed early on in the hike - fun! The view here was panoramic, and I could see my car! I was very grateful for the breeze.



From here, the trail moderately descended through the beautiful, view-filled open meadow. I passed a backpacking group with all matching gear (I assume they were renting, in a non-deragatory way). I was missing my good socks on this descent, as I could feel every step, but I was surviving okay. 


The trail crossed another gate down low, went over a bridge, and then terminated back on Boston Mill Road. I was back on the pavement just over two hours after starting my hike, and I was thrilled with my little adventure! I stopped back at the bathroom and then went into the gift shop, where I treated myself to an ice cream sandwich! It was like a whole new park down here without all of the clouds.


Epilogue...
Another fun post-hike adventure... After my ice cream, I got lunch at Sheetz, showered, and took a lovely nap! When I woke up, I had a little headache so I took three Advil - two for the headache and a third for "later" (I planned to have fun and wanted to prepare!). I then had a Celcius (200mg caffeine). When I was almost done with the Celcius, I noticed that my Advil didn't actually say "Advil." It didn't even say "Ibuprofen" - it said "Sleeping Aid." I had a brief panic, and then I simply had to accept that it would be a weird night... (Note: I have been taking these not-Advils as Advil for the past month as needed, and the bottle lived in my car...). I think I watched the wedding ceremony from the etherial plane. I could feel the atoms in my body vibrating. It was WILD. After a few drinks and dinner, I began to turn normal again, but man, I felt insane.

Step-By-Step
- Park at Sky Meadows State Park main parking area (Historical Area).
- Start hike toward Boston Mill Road.
- Turn left onto Boston Mill Road (green).
- At third junction, turn right onto South Ridge Trail (yellow).
- Hike spurs to Historic Area Overlook, Snowden Ruins, and George's Overlook.
- At terminus, turn left onto North Ridge Trail (blue).
- At terminus, turn right onto Appalachian Trail (white).
- At second jct., turn right onto Ambassador Whitehouse Trail (light blue).
- At terminus, turn left onto North Ridge Trail (blue).
- At next jct., turn right onto Piedmont Overlook Trail (red).
- At terminus, turn right onto Boston Mill Road (green).
- Return to car.

Thursday, April 20, 2023

Old Rag Mountain (Shenandoah National Park)

Old Rag Mountain (Shenandoah National Park)

Hike Type: Loop
Distance: 9.54 miles
Elevation: 2595 feet
Time: 6 hours, 5 minutes (5 hours, 1 minutes moving) 
Hiking Challenges: Summit Beer Society


The Hike
The most anticipated adventure of our trip - a hike up Old Rag Mountain! I didn't take any notes during this one, but took a comical amount of photos. Our drive from Bear Church Rock to our hotel in Winchester provided some nice views of the mountain, which just increased our excitement. The drive to the trailhead also has great views that kept us going on the early morning. The trailhead is apparently new in the past few years, with two composting toilets, plenty of parking, and a ranger to scan our day use reservations and park pass. The forecasted high was 84 degreen, there wasn't a cloud in the sky, we took care of all our early morning hiking chores, made great use of the toilets, scanned our passes, and got to hiking!


The hike started off crossing a lovely bridge and then a gentle climb with some more moderate sections than yesterday's hike. The leaves were just as beautiful as yesterday and there were occasional spring flowers and really interesting Umbrella Magnolias. There were occasional views of Old Rag and the surrounding mountains through the trees, and there was a beautiful Black Swallowtail butterfly on an azalea flower. There was a partial view on top of a wabbly boulder partway up, but the real views started around the first scramble (you'll know when you've made it!). The first scramble was fun, either shimmying up a ~4.5ft deep crack or leaping up and ducking under an overhanging rock, and led to some spectacular views of Old Rag, the surrounding mountains, and the distant valleys. The bugs were out, but not bothersome, and the light greens and yellows of the springtime trees were breathtaking, all while the views up to the summit were daunting. 




This view is labeled as the "false summit" (I'd more call it a knob, it's clear you're not at the top), and it's the kickstart for one of the more ridiculous scrambling sections I've done on a hike. There is some meandering up and down, under and over, and of course, in between rocks, and then a deep descent into a crack between two massive boulders (instead of a blaze, there is just an arrow that points straight down). There were lots of butt scootches, swearing, and "how on earth do we get there?" comments, but this was absolutely the most fun part. The packs had to come off a few times, and there were a few more stable moments where we were able to catch our breaths.


A favorite spot was rock cave/tunnel (not claustrophobic) where the temperature was easily 20-30 degrees cooler than it was outside, followed by a lovely view, then followed by a bizarre staircase-type area with a massive rock wedged between the walls. One obstacle after another! There was one particularly difficult section for me, as a beefy guy, where you essentially had to give a rock a big hug and hurdle yourself up and over... That was the hardest section for me, and I made it! We were trailed by a tall solo hiker with only a fanny pack (we later overheard him say he would rather fall off the mountain than hike with a full pack... okay) who told us he spent two years not being able to walk so he's ready for this hike. Interesting fella!


Pain aside, the scrambles were so fun (and not yet over!). Our hands and knees were scraped up, but we continued on. Thankfully, the views kept getting better and better! Unfortunately, everytime we caught a view of the actual summit, we felt like it never got closer! A comically narrow passageway marked the begininng of the end in my opinion. You essentailly pop out like a praire dog onto the scrambly ridge walk. There was one final difficult scramble over a large drop (someone on AllTrails called it a leap of faith, and I agree!), but the rest of the scrambles were more fun and less terrifying. 


The trail settles down near the summit, and eventaully comes to the beautiful "Old Rag Mountain Summit ->" sign, with the spiderweb network of spur trails leading to views in all direction and one last comical pile of giant rocks. The views were incredible with the budding trees and hazy horizon. There was a "summit brick" ontop o fthe tallest rock that I did not want to tempt fate climbing, but the tall hiker who spent years not walking did go up and said "haha this asshole. It says "good job making it to the top!" which made me giggle. We took in a few views, and decided to have our summit beverages and snacks at the shelter, not knowing if we would have any scrambles down.



The summit marked the end of the brutal Ridge Trail and the beginning of the Saddle Trail. The trip down was ridiculously easier, with gentle grades and easy footing. We stopped at the Byrd Shelter which had an enclosed picnic table where we took our long break. I personally decided to skip the backpacking meal so I could drink the extra water I brought, but we still had a great break. The trail to the Old Rag Shelter was beautiful with views to the left, moderately descending. I had to get ahead of the group since my thighs were burning trying to move slowly (here we learned that my friend Chris does fast uphill and slow downhill, I do the opposite). 


The trail levels out at the Old Rag Shelter. Emma was super excited to use the privy that was there, but to her dismay it was MESSY. Lots of crusted poo and garbage... they all ended up peeing in the woods. The shelter itself was nicer than the Byrd Shelter, with room for a few more people to have a snack break. This shelter also marked the terminus of the Saddle Trail and the beginning of the Old Rag Fire Road, which was a much wider trail and rather featureless. We did see a garter snake! 



We departed the Old Rag Fire Road and joined the Weakley Hollow Fire Road at "Post Office Junction" (signed). It reads:
Community Central
This location was once the sight of a small mountain community. Here residents shopped, socialized, and attended church and school. When Shenandoah National Park was established in 1935, residents were relocated making way for the hiking trails you enjoy today. As you explore, please help preserve history by not disturbing evidence of former human use and respecting those who still live in this area. 

Meet the Postman
W.A. Brown was the Old Rag postmaster and storekeeper. A community leader, Brown lived next door to the post office and store. Reisdents picked up their mail, visited, and bought basics like coffee, sugar, and five-cent sodas. 

The trip from Post Office Junction is even easier, continuing along wide fire roads with gradual descents. There were a couple of nice cascades on either side of the trail along the Brokenback Run (excellent name), one large vehicular bridge, and lots of very tall trees. Near the terminus there is a series of four lovely footbridges crossing the stream, which has washed out the road. We crossed paths with a juvenile eastern rat snake, which was truly almost cute!


The final stretch of our hike was deciding to follow the paved road down instead of hiking the Ridge Access Trail (not sure if that was technically allowed, but I did NOT want to climb up any more elevation! It seems like this route used to be part of the actual trail before the Ridge Access Trail was opened (old blazes), and it links to another trail down the road. We were DELIGHTED to make it back to the parking area, where we changed out clothes, used the bathroom, and set forth to the best place to get a reward... Taco Bell!


Step-By-Step 
- Park at trailhead and ranger station (this location has changed in recent years, we used "Old Rag Circuit Hike" on Google Maps). 
- Start hike along blue-blazed Ridge Trail.
- Follow ridge trail to false summit knob, and then begin the strenuous scrambles.
- Summit Old Rag Mountain.
- Descend via Saddle Trail
- At Old Rag Shelter (the second shelter), continue right onto Old Rag Fire Road.
- At junction, turn right onto Weakley Hollow Fire Road.
- At next junction, continue straight through gate onto VA Route 600.
- Follow pavement to parking area.


Wednesday, April 19, 2023

Bear Church Rock (Shenandoah National Park)

Bear Church Rock (Shenandoah National Park)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back w/ Spur
Distance: 8.59 miles
Elevation: 2346 feet
Time: 5 hours, 1 minutes (4 hours, 34 minutes moving) 
Hiking Challenges: Summit Beer Society


The Hike
After a great night in Atlantic City and a few days in Washington D.C./Alexandria, VA, we made the hour-and-a-half drive to Shenandoah National Park for our first of two hikes! We parked at the end of Graves Road at the Graves Mill Trailhead in a gravel lot, slowly got our bags in order, and started our hike around 9:45am! The Graves Mill Trail is blazed in yellow and follows the Rapidan River, winding along the banks and into the woods, with one eroded section that will likely collapse into the river after a few intense storms. 


The first junction is a half-mile in, and we were introduced to the Shenandoah trail markers - a concrete obelisk with a metal band near the top, with trail signage and distances embedded into the metal. Here, we turned left onto the Staunton River Trail, which parallels the Staunton River... I think. There are also the names "Garth Spring Run" and "Wilson Run" on Google Maps, and there's little information that I can easily find on Google. Whatever its called, it was beautiful! [EDIT: When I checked the USGS Topo Map, I found the Wilson Run is a minor/seasonal stream that the trail crosses, and eventually joins the Staunton River. Same with Garth Spring Run, but that one is much higher up and my hike did not cross it.] A great, relatively easy trail. There were two great cascades along the trail and some beautiful woods. One cascade had some man-made infastructure, but I couldn't figure out what it could be. [EDIT: I just did a Facebook search on the "Shenandoah National Park Hikers" group and found this: "They’ve added some stuff since I was last there. I’m guessing both setups are related to water quality. This has been a long-term study by Virginia Tech since the Flood of 1995 wiped out 100% of the fish population and made huge changes to the stream bed of the Staunton River."]. There were also some old stone walls/foundations which were cool to see. I'd love to find out what/who used to be there!


We admired the trilliums and other blooming flowers, continued to be in awe that there were leaves on the trees (compared to the bare sticks we still have in New England), and eventually hit the Jones Mountain Trail junction. This is where the climb began! The trail immediately got steeper and the sweat started pouring. It was nothing crazy steep, but we had gotten used to the gentler grades down below! There is an excellent tunnel of mountain laurel near the junction with the Jones Mountain Cabin - I wish it was in bloom!


There is a gentle, then steep descent to the shelter, with one small view off-trail. The view will definitely diminish as the leaves grow in, but it was a welcomed break! The final descent to the cabin was steep and we were DEVISTATED to learn that the privy was locked! Absolutely heartbreaking. We did our best to leave no trace in the woods, took a snack break, explored the exterior of the cabin, and then got right back to work.


The climb up from the cabin was painful, but quick, and then we had the final push up the Jones Mountain Trail. The trail was realtively steep, but nothing ever ridiculous. The trail was beautiful, with a green ground-cover and narrow footbead. The leaves reverted to buds higher up, and before we knew it we were at the incredible Bear Church Rock viewpoint! 


The view was spectacular of surrounding mountains, drainages, and even Old Rag in the distance! There was a wide-open viewpoint that we were delighted to have all to ourselves. We spent a solid half-hour up top enjoying our time (and snacks). We made it a mission to take a nice, long break on this hike, so we brought along some of our Ready Wise backpacking meals and my JetBoil so we could have some good warm food, and be forced to chill out up top. I will say, I was disappointed with the Breakfast Skillet - it was unsightly, which isn't much of an issue, but the meal was also dissatisfying. The Mountain House is much better in my opinion. 



Our return trip was straightforward and easy - only passing one other hiker near the top and one mom/daughter duo near the bottom. There were lots of beautiful flowers, LOTS of green leaves, and I was in awe of the tall trees. Are they actually taller down here, are they just older, or am I delusional? Not sure, but I loved it! We took our time getting cleaned up, and eventually started the long drive to Winchester where our new home would be for the next few days. 


Step-By-Step
- Park at Graves Mill Trail trailhead (end of Graves Road; "Rapidan River (lower section) on Google Maps).
- Start hike along yellow-blazes Graves Mill Trail.
- At junction, turn left onto blue-blazed Staunton River Trail.
- At junction, turn left onto blue-blazed Jones Mountain Trail.
- At junction, turn left onto Jones Mountain Trail.
- At junction, continue left onto Jones Mountain Cabin Spur.
- At cabin, turn around.
- At junction, turn sharply left onto Jones Mountain Trail.
- Arrive at Bear Church Rock.
- Retrace steps, skipping the Cabin Spur, back to trailhead.


"Rapidan River" from Wikipedia
"The Rapidan River begins west of Doubletop Mountain in Shenandoah National Park where the Mill Prong meets the Laurel Prong at Rapidan Camp, approximately 3 miles (4.8 km) south of Big Meadows. The river defines the border of Orange County with Culpeper and Madison Counties. Sections of the lower Rapidan River are preserved by a conservation easement.[2] The Rapidan River was the scene of severe fighting in the American Civil War, and historic sites such as Ely's Ford, Chancellorsville, Brandy Station, Kelly's Ford, and the Battle of the Wilderness are nearby."

"Jones Mountain Cabin" from Potomac Appalachian Trail Club
"Built by moonshiner, Harvey Nichols, this chestnut log cabin is located in the Central Section of SNP. Access the cabin by a strenuous 3.8 mile hike-in from the park boundary at Graves Mill. This the longest hike-in of all PATC cabins and, as a result, this cabin is only recommended for experienced backpackers. There, you will find a main floor complete with 2 bunks, an eating area, counter space, and a wood stove for heat. Find a loft space for up to 7 mattresses and a large covered porch in the front. Hikers can explore the trail system in SNP. Nearby Jones Mountain Trail leads to a spectacular view at Bear Church Rock. Note that firewood should be used conservatively, and outdoor fires are not permitted per park regulations. Be prepared to pay the park entrance fee."