CIVILIZED HIKING: Mt. Major

Showing posts with label Mt. Major. Show all posts

Sunday, May 3, 2026

Mt. Major & Straightback Mtn. via Old Stage, Jesus Valley & Blueberry Pasture (Belknap Range)

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop

Distance: 7.82 miles

Elevation: 1,745 feet

Time: 3 hours, 56 minutes (3 hours, 32 minutes moving)

Parking: Limited parking for a few cars on Alton Mountain Road ("Straightback Trailhead" on Google Maps)
Hiking Challenges: Belknap Range Redliner, Belknap Range Grid, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge, 52 Hike Challenge 2026

The Hike

Time to drag Christien up north again! Naturally, I wanted to spend the day in the Whites. Naturally, it was going to be cruddy weather (with snow on the highest of peaks, NATURALLY). Instead, I decided to take him to Mt. Major via the south side (really just to mix things up for me). The plan was to leave at 5:30am, so he got up at 3:30am to get ready (which was WILD). I got up at 5:00. We slowly got our lives together, and we were off!

Skies were crystal clear in Boston, but there were going to be clouds in the Belknaps, which was fine - I assumed Mt. Major would be low-elevation enough to still give us a nice view. Christien was pretty nauseous for the drive - I felt bad for him. He was a tropper, though! We took a longer break at Hooksett for some food and not-driving, and we eventually made our way up to the parking area on Alton Mountain Road to start our adventure! Parking was nice and easy with space for just a few cars (and plenty of signs telling you NOT where to park). I booted up at the car - he came in his full hiking attire - and then we were off!

[8:21am - Blueberry Pasture Trail]

The Blueberry Pasture Trail starts about 20 feet away from the parking area kiosk on the right and is clearly signed. The Trail follows an old road to a very interesting area with... t-shirts on crosses? According to the Belknap Range Trails map on belknaprangetrails.org, they are Finnish Scarecrows (Silent People), and I can't find much information on them - WAIT. I found a Reddit thread that linked an article in the Laconia Daily Sun (found here). In essence, the landowners visited Finland and saw the original Finnish Scarecrows/Silent People, which were erected as a memorial to lives lost during a Russian/Finnish war in the late 1930's. The landowners were inspired to recreate it in this old field, partly as hommage to the original, but also to protest the 2003 war in Iraq. Kind of interesting that we stumbled upon them for the first time as the U.S. is dealing with another controversial war, now in Iran.

Anyway, here, the Blueberry Pasture Trail is joined by Old Stage Road, which is a colonial-era road with a neat history, detailed also at belknaprangetrails.org. Information below:

"The Old Stage Road (blazed red/blue) through Griswold Scout Reservation has a complicated history. In colonial times the now Old Stage Road was an extension of the now Manning Lake Road and went east and ended at the farmstead, now a cellar hole, in the center of the Reservation, at what is called the logging camp outpost. On the east side of the property, Alton Mountain road extended northwest to the farmsteads on the eastern boundary of the property in the area where the red trail crosses the now Old Stage Road and ended there. So in the era of Stage Coaches, that road never went through. Around the 1940’s a logging company punched a rough road through what is now the Reservation to move their portable sawmill and connected the then abandoned portions of the two roads. That old road then became the red/blue trail for the boy scouts, but was flooded by beaver in one section east of West Brook and was quite wet in another section between that beaver swamp and the eastern boundary. In 1977, the Scouts built a road from the Hidden Valley camp to the eastern portion of the now Old Stage Road and made it passable to trucks easterly to West Brook. In the mid 1990’s, I set up a timber sale in the West Brook valley and along the red/blue trail. As part of that sale, the loggers built a new road easterly across West Brook and around the north side of the beaver swamp and by-passed the other wet spot and ended the road where the gate is now located. There was only a hiking trail between the gate and the eastern boundary. The Gilmanton snowmobile club soon discovered the improved road and widened the hiking trail at the end of the road to accommodate their groomer and to connect with the old Alton Mountain Road section. I have not been easterly beyond the old gravel pit on the east boundary of the Reservation for many years and do not know what has happened in that area of late. (I was able to drive a VW Rabbit to the red trail-Old Stage Road junction in 1995) If the Alton section was once a public road, it is still the legal Right-of-Way to the Reservation. I do not know when and if that section of Alton Mountain Road was abandoned, but I assume it was around the same time the farmsteads were abandoned. Research on the history of now abandoned section of Alton Mountain Road may uncover something of further interest."

The two trails coincide, hiking past yet another curiosity - a sign that reads COUGAR IN AREA. I immediately rolled my eyes. I know there's a group of Mountain Lion enthusiasts that believe they're in New England. It wasn't until I read the fine print that my attitude changed...

"PLEASE STAY ON TRAILS. TRAVEL IN SMALL GROUPS AND DO NOT ALLOW MEN UNDER 30 TO TRAVEL ALONE."

Excellent. No notes, truly!

A bit further down the trail/road we saw a bright orange "Trail Information" sign, likely from snowmobile season signing "Little Avery Hill Loop" and "Secret View" - we mentally pinned this for later.

There was a light pitter patter of rain (IT WAS NOT SUPPOSED TO RAIN!) as we continued this easy stretch of our hike. We passed a sign (there are so many signs in the Belknaps) saying "TRAIL USERS. This trail is on private land is being made available through the cooperation of: Elise Arry... and has been developed through the efforts of: THE Mt. Major Snowmobile Club. Do not litter. Drive with Care. Respect Private Proeprty," followed by another sign for the other end of the Little Avery Hill Loop.

[8:32am - Old Stage Road]

Just after, we hit the intersection where Old Stage Road leaves Blueberry Pasture Trail. Old Stage Road continued on the right, while Blueberry Pasture Trail turned left. This officially began our lollipop loop! Christien had pivoted from feeling nauseous to having a bit of vertigo, he said "the trees are moving," and the trees were in fact not moving. I felt so bad for him! We were passing the time with me guessing the names of his family members, which I got most of within a few minutes, but there was one that really kept me occupied (well over an hour of guessing) - hopefully he didn't find it too annoying!

We hiked past a few pools with frog eggs, past a few wonderful glacial erratics, and then hit a junction with an unblazed trail that helped us avoid private property at the end of Jesus Valley Road.

[8:46am - Unblazed Connector]

The unblazed connector, signed with a wooden arrow pointing towards Mt. Major and Straightback, rose steeply with typical "road" footing, meaning it was calf steep. This is the first time we actually were hiking, so naturally I was immediately out of breath.

[8:49am - Jesus Valley - Beaver Pond Trail]

The Unblazed Connector came to a junction with the Jesus Valley - Beaver Pond Trail, which we turned right onto to descent back onto the lovely, flat corridor we'd been enjoying! We hiked through an open yard of sorts and turned left into the woods, continuing along over snowmobile bridges and eventually coming up Beaver Pond!

[9:02am - Jesus Valley - Beaver Pond Trail/Beaver Pond]

I'm guessing Beaver Pond is named for the beavers that clearly had formed the pond - their lodge was a wonderful centerpiece on the pond! The pond was a nice spot to "stop and stare." It was delightfully quiet and still with grey skies above and just a few bits of drizzle falling. We each took sepearate excusions into the woods to take care of personal businesses, and then we continued on! The trail followed the pond for a bit before contuing through a beautiful birch-lined corridor. We even saw an eft!

[9:28am - Boulder Trail]

We took a quick break at the Boulder Trail junction, and Christien had some of my tums-coated Advil - he was thinking he was dealing with a sneaky migrane, which truly sounded likely. We had some water, he had his drugs, I took a quick potty break, we crossed paths with the first person du jour, and it was time to FINALLY climb up Mt. Major!

I was a big fan of the Boulder Trail. I had only ever hiked down it, and let me tell you it was MUCH nicer going up than down! Last time I came down this trail it was after a rain storm, I was grossly dehydrated, and I took a pretty hard fall onto my back, which was caught by my pack, but gave me some intense whiplast for the next few days. The trail alternated steep, rocky climbs with mellower stretches. This is also where I learned that Christien likes to mountain goat up the rocks with his long legs - my god! I had NO problem letting him get ahead, as I was plugging along slow and steady.

Salvation was near after a gravelley, scrambly pitch. We came to the first "DO NOT DISTURB THE CAIRNS!!" sign, and from this point on the trail was absolutely delightful. Mostly flat, trending upward, and walking along beautiful slabby, scrubby woods with moss-lined trails. We started to catch preliminary views towards Alton Bay.

[10:23am - Mt. Major Summit]

"Wow"s soon began, as we reached the summit! The view from here is always spectacular. Lake Winnipesaukee is really something cool to see. We could see Mt. Moosilauke in the clouds (turns out it was snowing!), the peaks of the Franconias and the Sandwich Range, and of course the Ossipees (where Sarah was apparently hiking! I told her on Strava that I waved to her!). There were showers rolling through the area, but thankfully they were staying above and north of the lake, with only wind and a few small drizzles hitting us at the top. We took a bunch of photos and meandered around the summit for a bit. I found two discs! There were two groups of hikers taking refuge from the cold wind in the old foundation, but once they left I jumped in. There were two friendly solo hikers chatting nearby - it was one's first solo hike ever, and she just ran a marathon. The other one was a chatty guy who read as a local and just happy to meet people. Very fun to eavesdrop!

We then sat for a bit and bundled back up. I got some tortellini pasta salad from Hookset, which felt silly but was a WIN! I paired that with an Almond Joy and we both shared adult beverages (a Nutrl hard lemonade and this Blackberry Bramble canned cocktail, both were... fine) and enjoyed being out, even if it was cold!

Christien said he was feeling better (I bet it was the nasty Bramble), we finished up our break, enjoyed the view for just a bit longer, and then started hiking again!

[10:54am - Blue/Yellow Trail]

We followed the confluence of a blue and yellow-blazed trail, which I think was the Mt. Major Trail and Brook Trails. They continued along wonderful open slabs (similar the upper reaches of the Boulder Trail) before descending a bit steeply to a junction where the yellow-blazed Brook Trail turned right to descend and the blue-blazed Major-Straightback Link turned left to start the journey up to Straightback. We briefly crossed paths with the woman who was on her first solo hike, who was also playing music loudly, so we blasted off.

[11:04am - Major-Straightback Trail]

The Major-Straightback Link rose through pretty, mossy forests with occasional open spots at easy to moderate grades. There were a few older wooden blue diamond blazes guiding the way, but the footbed was always clear. The trail later evened out and opened up to the summit of Straightback Mountain!

[11:24am - Straightback Mountain Summit/Straightback Mountain Trail]

Mentally, I didn't realize that Straightback was higher up than Mt. Major, but my legs felt it! From the summit, we turned left and followed the sign for "to Jesus Valley Rd 1.5 mi," which was the Straightback Mountain Trail.

The upper Straightback Mountain Trail was an absolute joy to walk across. It was very open with a small discernable footpath through occasional patches of dirt with occasional views - it reminded me of sections of Monadnock along the Pumpelly Ridge. I only wish there were blazes or cairns! The trail turned a corner and descended along a slightly wetter stretch before ocming to the junction with the Blueberry Pasture Trail.

[11:37am - Blueberry Pasture Trail]

The Blueberry Pasture Trail was a wonderfully pleasant old road with mostly good footing, save for a few wobbly rocks here and there. We descended with a few turns here and there, and lower down hiked across some snowmobile bridges and past some old artifacts. Some wheel/pulley thing and a few barrels. It was simply a lovely descent from Straightback down!

[12:01pm - Blueberry Pasture Trail/Old Stage Road]

[12:02pm - Little Avery Hill Loop]

Soon we were back on Old Stage Road and after a bit of waffling we decided to hit the Little Avery Hill Loop to check out the "Secret View." This was clearly a snowmobile trail with blegh footing, and it was a steep one at that! Christien was NOT pleased with our decision, but I was suffering along excited for a view1There wre a couple of old orange blazes, but this trail is not on either map on belknaprangetrails.org. We turned a corner, suffered up some more, and came to a grassy clearing with a view!

[12:10pm - Little Avery Hill]

There was a lovely view up to straightback, and it was really fun to see the open slabs up there, where we were not too long ago! Christien was NOT having it, he officially hated Little Avery Hill after that steep climb! There was a tree view behind to normal Avery Hill, which does have a trail in the old Dave Robert's map on the aformentioned website, but nothing on the current map.

The descent was quick and easy down a narrower snowmobile trail, and soon we were back on the Blueberry Pasture Trail to finish out our hike!

[12:13pm - Blueberry Pasture Trail]

We did forget about the Silent People, though. We had a quick, uneasy hike past them, but then soon enough we were back at the parking area, which had about four cars now.

[12:17pm - End of Hike]

We did it! Christien was feeling much better compared to the start of the hike, and was just wishing he felt fine for the whole thing. I'm really glad and grateful that he rallied - I had a wonderful time on these trails and hiking with him! I got changed in the parking area and then we set our sights on getting lunch on the lake, so we drove down Alton Mountain Road to Alton Bay and landed at Shibley at the Pier in Alton, and it was a great, easy lunch! Except for the fact that I basically drenched myself in my cocktail...

The drive home was nice and easy. I got BOGO popcorn from the Common Man and Christien had a nice nap. Best part - we were home by 3:00pm so I could keep delaying my Sunday scaries!

Step-by-Step

- Start hike on Blueberry Pasture Trail from trailhead.

- At jct., turn right onto Old Stage Road.

- Near terminus, turn left onto unblazed trail.

- At jct., turn right onto Jesus Valley - Beaver Pond Trail.

- At terminus, turn left onto Boulder Trail.

- At terminus, continue onto Blue/Yellow blazed trail.

- At jct., continue to follow Blue blazes.

- At summit of Straightback Mountain (S. Peak), turn left onto Straightback Mountain Trail.

- At jct., turn right onto Blueberry Pasture Trail.

- After jct. with Old Stage Road, turn left onto snowmobile path to "Secret View."

- At "Secret View," continue to follow path down to Blueberry Pasture Trail.

- Turn left onto Blueberry Pasture Trail, return to car.

Belknap Range Map (2023)

Photo Album

Wednesday, August 24, 2022

West Quarry, Rand, Klem, Mack, Anna, Straightback, & Major (Belknap Range)

"Wet and slippery is very icky, slippery and wet makes Matthew upset"

Hike Type: E3 Loop (Like a figure 8)
Distance: 11.28 miles
Elevation: 2976 feet
Time: 6 hours, 28 minutes

Hiking Challenges: Belknap Range Hiker, Summit Beer Society

The view from Mt. Major.

The Hike

What a day! I am writing this the next morning, sore legs from the hiking, sore everything else from all the falling, chafing galore, and a dull stinging sensation on my shoulder. The weather was supposed to be nice, I had no commitments until marching band at 5:30, so I headed up to the Belknaps to explore some of the other peaks on the Belknap Range Hiker list! Today was a big E3 loop (like a figure 8 loop, but no criss crossing) hitting seven peaks on the list, plus two that are not on the list (North Straightback and East Quarry Mountain). I had a slow start, getting out of the house around 5:30am, and made my way up to Lake Winnipesaukee. The Mt. Major parking area is a big lot with 8 freshly urinal-caked porta potties. There were about 5 other cars when I started my hike, and about 12 when I finished. I imagine there is usually more, but the passing showers probably deterred some from hiking. I used the bathroom, suited up, and then fought with my camera for about 10 minutes - I think my sweat crystalized under the shutter button, and it got stuck. Thankfully I was able to un-jam it and get the day started!

The first section on the blue-blazed Mt. Major Trail (also sometimes listed as Main Trail) is a very wide trail, recently maintained. It climbs steadily, without any steep climbs. Some areas are more eroded than others, but overall really nice gentle hiking. The weather altered between cloudy/humid and sunny/warm, but never hot which was very nice. There were a few instances of bear poop lying around, but no bears. I passed a few people coming down the mountain, one who was just as sweaty as me. I sometimes joke about wanting to thank the other sweaty folk for their service of being just as gross as me.

The main trail turns to head up the mountain, and then the yellow-blazed Brook Trail starts on the right. This was more or less a continuation of the blue trail terrain-wise. Initially it is a nice walk in the woods above a brook, and then it turns and begins to steeply climb up to the ridge between Straightback and Major. I did have to dodge flying acorns from the squirrels, but that was the bulk of wildlife. There were many unmarked/abandoned trails in this first area, which makes me wonder where they all lead. At the ridge, the main trail heads toward Mt. Major, and I turned in the other direction to head toward North Straightback. It was clear that I had officially left the most popular area - the wide eroded trail was now a single-track in the woods, which was much appreciated. A cloud rolled over the mountain and I realized that clouds have a smell - an interesting thought.

The summit area of North Straightback had a partial view of either Straightback or Major - a nice spot for a break and to wring out the clothes. Further down is the summit sign, and to my dismay I later learned that N. Straightback doesn't count for the challenge. Oh well. Heading up North Straightback is where I took my first fall of the day. The rock looked dry! My shoes were not. Landed hard on my side, but no main damage was sustained. The Quarry Spur Trail was quite lovely - squishy and mossy, really beautiful woods, but then became a very steep descent into an old clearing that is now growing in. Just before Easy Quarry there was a really nice viewpoint that I took a long break at to watch the dark clouds skirt across Lake Winnipesaukee and enjoy my first summit beverage of the day.

After my break, I finished the climb to East Quarry, another peak that doesn't count, and then carefully descended the comically steep trail. It only travels maybe 10-15 horizontal feet, but it is STEEP. I threw my poles down, and apparently a couple heard that thought it could have been a moose (it was not sadly). They then asked me which direction they should take which was interesting. I wanted to ask where their goal was, but I just said it's steep where I came from. The trail from East to West Quarry was relatively gentle through some nice forest, and I officially hit a peak that counted!

The hike down from West Quarry was steep - there is the main trail that descends via ledges and then there was a bypass. I took the bypass after my earlier fall... and I fell... again. This time I landed on the other side of my body, so at least I would not be evened out. It was clear that most people don't hike this stretch between West Quarry and Mt. Rand - it was overgrown and the spiderwebs were abundant. I took a FULL web to the face, which was a big bummer for all involved (sorry, spider). I also heard my favorite animal - the grouse - in this section, and naturally I made a whole scene about it. The climb up Rand was steady, but not ridiculous, and the summit area was really nice and open forest.

There is a view toward Klem and Mack just past the summit of Rand, and just as I was enjoying it a passing shower swept through. Thankfully, it wasn't too heavy for too long and quickly moved along. The descent down Rand was, shockingly, extremely steep, and shockingly, I fell again. I know the moisture was a factor here, but I also think that it might be time for some new shoes. I also took a moment, sitting on my butt on the ground, to reflect upon how impressive it is at the sheer volume of sweat my body produces.

The climb to Klem was the most forgiving, not short, but forgiving. The summit area is off a short spur and fully wooded. I had realized here that I lost my coozie, which was a bummer, but hopefully somebody finds it and gives it a new, loving home. The trail between Klem and Mack was very nice and scenic, and nothing was too steep or painful (that I remember). In addition to my three falls, getting rained on, and losing my coozie, I also ran out of water here. I still had a full liter of Nuum left (and a Pumpkin Downeast Hard Cider...), so I would have to make that last. In my relatively insane state, I had the song "The Pirates Who Don't Do Anything" from Veggie Tales stuck in my head, and managed to come up with two parodies: "We are the hikers, who do everything. We wish we stayed at home, and lied around. And if you ask us, to do anything, we'll just tell you, sure, sounds fun!" and "we are the teachers, who don't do anything. Because it is, summer break. And if you ask us, to do anything. We'll just tell you, f-no leave me alone." Glad I'm putting my two music degrees to good work!

The summit of Mack was also uneventful, but the trail down was long and gentle through some nice woods... UNTIL A WASP DECIDED I WAS ITS NEXT VICTIM. This was my first bee sting in years and I was UPSET. I ran down the trail, dropped my poles, army crawled back to them while swinging my arms, and then BOOKED it down the mountain. It hurt so bad, but thankfully no stinger and I'm not allergic. The only thing that grounded me was..... falling again. I realized that it's okay to take a minute to regain my composure. My shoulder stung bad, but there was no visible reaction. The sting lived well with me for the rest of the day, and it's very dull right now, about 20 hours later. It was also during this time that I was starting to cramp up due to dehydration (and I liked to pretend the venom from the sting was turning me into a superhero.

There were a few small water crossings in the col between Mack and Anna (I later realized I could have filtered water here, whoops), and then climbing up Anna was very gentle. Anna's summit was spacious with open skies, but no view. I took a second to assess the damage I've taken so far, and I was somehow still moving along. The biggest issues I was having was the stinging in my shoulder and the dehydration, but I slowed my pace to try to limit the sweating, and I was shockingly successful (and I don't think it was because I was the level of dehydrated where I stopped sweating...).

Anna to Straightback was another long one, but also never too ridiculous. Near the yellow-blazed Marsh Crossing there is a cool marsh that was behind the trees, I thought about trying to get a photo but I didn't want to have to bushwhack and risk more bee stings. Near the summit of Straightback, the world opens up with partial views in most directions, and eventually hits the summit. Only one more to go! I was taking it slow and not feeling my best, but never felt like I was at risk.

Coming down Straightback, I knew I was getting close to the col when I heard voices again - Mt. Major was near! The trail between the col and Mt. Major was really scenic and generally easy. Views started popping up, and suddenly the world opened up to the magnificent view from the summit area. I found two USGS discs, took a bunch of photos, used PeakFinder to identify the Ossipees and the southern 4000-footers in view. There were a couple rain storms in the area which added to the vista. I enjoy a long break, snack, and summit beverage break up here. I didn't want to leave, but I did have to get to marching band so it was time to go!

The orange-blazed Boulder Trail was really beautiful up top and not too steep with good views. Once it dips back into the woods there are a few scrambling sections. I had the honor of passing a group of hikers as they turned the corner to see a steep section, and one shouted out "OH CRAP," which gave me a good laugh. Also in the woods is where the trail gets its name from, some really impressive boulders! The trail meanders around them, so no crazy climbing. There was one wet rock slab about halfway down though... and you guessed it... I took my final fall of the day! This was probably the worst one. My feet slipped out in front of me, poles went flying, my triceps caught me which hurt like hell, and I swear my pack saved me from a concussion. I landed on my back and fully felt all my weight bounce off my pack, with my head whipping back, but never hitting rock. I definitely do have some whiplash today, but I'll take that over a head to the rock.

The bottom of the trail was gentle, and I was ready to be out of the woods. Back at the car, I spent time to aggressively hydrate with some warm gatorade, tried to baby wipe myself clean, and started the long voyage to marching band rehearsal. Overall, it was a really great hike! I was (and am) definitely beat up from the adventure, but I'm proud of myself for getting it done.