Showing posts with label Stokes State Forest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stokes State Forest. Show all posts

Monday, August 1, 2022

Appalachian Trail: Culver's Gap to Stony Brook Trail (Stokes State Forest)

Appalachian Trail: Culver's Gap to Stony Brook Trail (Stokes State Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 5.58 miles
Elevation: 820 feet
Time: 2 hours, 21 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Jersey Appalachian Trail; 52 Hike Challenge


The Hike

This is the final hike I needed to complete the NJ section of the Appalachian Trail, and naturally I started the day by procrastinating. I made my way to the Culvers Gap parking lot, but it was misting out so I decided to drive to the lookout on Sunrise Mountain first to kill some time which was lovely. When I made it back to the parking lot (30 minutes later), it was still misting but I decided to get ready. I was then approached by a thru-hiker who hammock camped next to the parking lot and he asked for a ride to Sunrise Mountain, which I agreed to. He packed up for about 15 minutes and then off we went! I learned that his name was Max, he was from Arkansas, he's been on the trail since April, his trail name was either Fisher or Fisherman, he didn't make it to the shelter last night because he enjoyed a cheeseburger for a little too long, he might go to Acadia after summiting Katahdin, and that he needed the ride to Sunrise Mountain so he could get ahead and meet his friend at High Point. I decided to not be prying and ask if he'd go back for this section, a mystery! Eventually I made my way back to the parking lot, used the horrible porta-potty, and actually got my hike started.

 


There is a short section of trail that connects the parking lot back with Sunrise Mountain Road, and in there I passed a hiker who had hammock camped there last night. He was barefoot and smoking a cigarette, and about 30 feet away was his bear bag on the ground attached to a limb that looked like it had just fallen. Very interesting start to the day. I crossed Sunrise Mountain Road and then the trail started to climb steadily and moderately. Some sections were rooty and eroded and others mimicked the classic rocky trail I've grown to know so well. The climb was incredibly humid, with some drizzling and cloudiness. Very scenic regardless of how wet I was (at least it wasn't just my sweat this time!). My favorite part of this section was the incredible amount of red efts all around! Some as small as just over an inch. I was nervous to step on them! I also saw the world's smallest frog during my climb.

 


There is one wide switchback during the climb which opens to a lovely view of the end of Culver's Lake and the surrounding hills. After the view, the trail levels out and meanders through some lovely woods. The switchback did throw off my brain and I got nervous I was hiking in the wrong direction, but thankfully I figured it out. Just before the lookout tower there is an unmarked trail to what I believe to be a radio tower (which I first thought was someone's residence - the tower is not on the NJDEP map, but it is marked on the NYNJTC map. On AllTrails, it's marked as Normanook Lookout Tower, which I believe is incorrect. The ridge in this area is known as Culvers Ridge, but apparently was formerly known as Normanook. I have more research to do). ANYWAY, opposite of the unmarked trail to the radio tower is another unmarked trail to a great view. I didn't see the mama deer staring at me 10 feet away which startled me, but thankfully she wasn't too bothered. I greeted her and politely asked to walk past, and she obliged. There was a fawn another 10 feet away that I also didn't notice. The path to the view was overgrown and WET, so I came out rather soaked. Definitely worth it though. 

 



Soon after this view is the lookout tower area, which is absolutely gorgeous. There was a sign on the tower that said "no trespassing without permission" and a phone number, but I decided to just climb it and see what happens. Now called Culver Lookout Tower, it used to be known as Normanook Tower, and it was built in 1935 by the CCC. It was wet and slippery, so I took my time, and it was well worth it. The clouds were starting to burn off, and there was a great view of the ridge towards High Point, and the monument was just poking out of the clouds. Just beautiful! There were two trail runners that were at the tower area with me, and one asked if I got caught in the rain last night, insinuating that I'm at least section hiking. I chuckled and said "nope just from my car," but then I realized that one of two things would have triggered him to ask this question: I either looked like I had my life together and was a serious hiker, or I looked like an absolute exhausted mess - it will forever be a mystery!

 



The trail continues north towards Sunrise Mountain, and soon intersects with the Tower Trail that looks like another scenic area. The AT descended the ridge very gently into the land of more red efts, which was lovely. This was a younger area of forest with endless small, skinny trees. The pitter patter of the droplets falling off was equally peaceful and stressful as all hell. On one had it was visually beautiful and aurally soothing, but on the other hand the smallest bird could set off a train reaction of drops falling that sounds like a monster charging towards me. 

 


My NJAT journey technically concluded at the junction with the Stony Brook Trail - hooray! I booped the brown blaze and had a celebratory beef stick, like any self respecting "civilized" hiker would. The return trip was quick and enjoyable. A gentle climb back to the firetower where someone was enjoying their lunch, more efts, and the clouds continuing to burn off. Just before the first view at the switchback I passed what was either a cub scout group or a summer camp group of ~15 kids that couldn't have been older than 10 with two adults/older teenagers. The kids were so excited about the firetower and multiple asked me how the view is, how cool it is, and how close they were. I usually get cranky with large groups, but this was wholesome as hell. After some more hiking I made it back to the car, changed out of my soaking wet clothes, and enjoyed my Wawa lunch from my new favorite place, the Augusta Wawa! Truly my only complaint from this hike was that my camera lens was constantly fogged up from the weather. I got home, had a snack, and ordered my patch!



Step-By-Step
  • Park at Culvers Gap Parking Lot.
  • Start hike on AT Northbound.
  • Cross Sunrise Mountain Road, continue on AT Northbound.
  • Enjoy Lookout Tower, continue on AT Northbound.
  • Junction with green-blazed Tower Trail, continue on AT Northbound.
  • Junction with brown-blazed Stony Brook Trail, turn around and retrace steps back to car.

"Stokes State Forest" from NYNJTC Map #122
        "Named in honor of Governot Edward Stokes, who donated the first 500 acres, this public area is managed for recreation and for timber, wildlife, and water conservation. Its 16,447 acres include some of the first land purchased for public use by the State of New Jersey.
        The effects of human activities are everywhere. Lenni Lenape grew crops in the fertile areas and hunted in the forest-covered mountains. The English and Dutch were known to farm the area in early 1700s. During the 1800s, the area was deforested through heavy harvesting of wood for lumber and for domestic and industrial fuel. Even into the twentieth century, many areas had no trees at all.
        Like High Point, Stokes State Park was the site of Civillian Conservation Corps camps. During the 1930s, the young men in the CCC constructed Sunrise Mountain Road, developed the Lake Ocquittunk, Kittle Field, and Shotwell areas, and built the park's extensive trail system. As part of their conservation efforts, they established evergreen plantations, which are evidence of early forest management in the area.
        Stokes State Forest contains 22 marked trails, many of which follow old woods roads. A 13-mile section of the Appalachian Trail traverses the park from north to south. In 2015, the 16.9-mile Blue Mountain Loop Trail, which incorporated a number of existing trails, as well as some newly constructed sections, was opened. For part of the way, it follows the scenic Big Flat Brook. The Stony Brook and/or Tinsley Trails can be combined with the Blue Mountain Loop Trail to create shorter loop hikes.
        The crest of Sunrise Mountain is one of the most frequently visited sites in Stokes State Forest. The mountaintop provides a breathtaking view at an elevation of 1,653 feet above sea level. The thin soil and harsh climate characteristic of Sunrise Mountain is a difficult environment in which few plants can survive. Mountain laurel, wild blueberry, pitch pine and scrub oak are among the natural vegetation found throughout the area. The pavilion at the summit was built in the late 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps."


Wednesday, July 27, 2022

Appalachian Trail: Deckertown Tpke to Sunrise Mountain (High Point State Park & Stokes State Forest)

Appalachian Trail: Deckertown Tpke to Sunrise Mountain

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 7.9 miles
Elevation: 845 feet
Time: 2 hours, 53 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Jersey Appalachian Trail; 52 Hike Challenge


The Hike 

The original plan today was to hike from the Deckertown Turnpike parking to NJ-23, but I didn't have a 10 mile hike in me and wanted to be back in time for dinner, so I hit the other side of Deckertown Turnpike and did the shorter hike to Sunrise Mountain! I had been to sunrise mountain in 2020, so this was a hike to connect some of the dots that I had previously missed. There was a pile of water jugs in the parking lot, assumingly for thru-hikers, and only one other car in the lot. I crossed the road to start my hike, took a few photos, and I was off!

 


The trail gently climbs for the first bit of trail and soon pops out at a nice clearing at a shelter. The trail turns right here, and just in case that blaze is missed there is a large sign saying "NOT THE AT" where an access road travels. The trail climbs for a little longer before generally leveling out. I noticed immediately this section of trail is much gentler than the other sections have been. I noticed a side path that could lead to a pond/lake/swamp, so I took the overgrown path and got a very partial view of a grassy wetland area. It looked like I could have searched further for a better view, but I wasn't feeling it.

 


Continuing on, the trail meanders through some beautiful open forest with stone walls and the works, and before I knew it I was back at the spot I've already hiked! I could have turned around here, but this hike has been relatively featureless so I decided I earned a good view. I continued on towards Sunrise Mountain and was very happy I did. There is a short section through a clearing that is mostly grown-in with lots of flowering plants that the butterflies love. I was able to get a truly excellent photo of a Tiger Butterfly here (and I love that I knew it was a Tiger Butterfly - thank you Animal Crossing!). 

 


Soon after the butterfly garden there is a spur path to the Sunrise Mountain Road parking lot, and a very short climb to the Sunrise Mountain summit pavilion! I was lucky enough to have the whole area to myself, so I put my stuff down, took a bunch of photos, and had a nice snack break. I noticed there were storm clouds over PA with rain, but the radar SWORE it wasn't coming my way (thankfully it was correct). 

 


The return trip was more of the same. I noticed a bunch of millipedes again which was cool, but what truly stopped me in my tracks was a long Black Rat Snake chilling in the middle of the trail! It was very content just chilling there, so I made my way around it. I noticed an unblazed path near the Lincroft Farm Trails, and there was another sign clearly stating that it was not the AT. I always appreciate reminders like that, as someone who has been lost on the trails in NJ numerous times. Soon after I was back at the car in dry clothes and ready for dinner!

 


Step-By-Step
  • Park at Appalachian Trail parking on Deckertown Turnpike.
  • Cross Deckertown Turnpike and enter Appalachian Trail Southbound.
  • At junction with blue-blazed Lincroft Farm Trails, continue on AT Southbound. 
  • At junction with blue/black-blazed trail, continue on AT Southbound.
  • At pavillion, take a break and enjoy the view. 
  • Turn around, and retrace steps.
    • NOTE: There are unmarked trail junctions not listed here. I only listed blazed trail junctions.

Saturday, July 16, 2022

Appalachian Trail: Route 624 to Tillman Ravine (Delware Water Gap National Recreation Area & Stokes State Forest)

Appalachian Trail: Route 624 to Tillman Ravine (Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area & Stokes State Forest)

Hike Type: One-Way
Distance: 9 miles
Elevation: 1234 feet
Time: 4 hours, 16 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Jersey Appalachian Trail; 52 Hike Challenge


The Hike
Day two of our AT-palooza hiking weekend! I went back and fourth a few times on how to most effectively do this hike - we ended up dropping a car the upper Tillman Ravine parking lot and started the hike at the end of Fairview Lake Road, where there is a gate and the former road steeply climbs up the ridge via switchback. Getting there was a longer journey. Gen and I drove separately to do the car spot, but I didn't know she was stopping for gas so I was slightly panicked when she wasn't at the parking lot, but she eventually landed. I then decided to take the scenic route to Blue Mountain Lakes Road by taking Mountain Road past Buttermilk Falls, which is one of the most beautiful spots in the state. The road leading up to the falls was rough, but not nearly as bad as Mohican Camp Road. At the falls, however, the rest of the road was gated and closed apparently from storm damage this past April. At least we got to see the falls! We then continued to drive to Blue Mountain Lakes Road and found out that it was gated at the Blue Mountain Lake parking lot. I had read that Skyline Drive was closed on weekends, but that didn't start for another two miles! I thought we'd be able to drive to Skyline Drive and park there, but nope. After using those composting toilets, we took another half hour drive around the ridge to Fairview Lake Road, a place where I spent years of my life attending band camp, and parked at the bottom of the abandoned road leading up the ridge (in the past, Fairview Lake Road and Blue Mountain Lakes Road connected via a hairpin turn. Not sure when this closed). After about two hours of driving - it was finally time to start hiking!


We walked up the gated/washed out road to the top of the ridge, which was about as eroded as I remembered, but a little more grown in. There's a nice stream that parallels the upper half after the hairpin turn. The top of the road has a very partial view of the valley below through a power cut, and there is a short road walk to where the AT crosses Blue Mountain Lakes Road. There were some cars in the AT parking lot, which made me curious. Maybe they were park workers? Maybe backpackers? Who knows! The trail is clearly marked in white paint where it crosses the road, so we headed into the woods and officially officially got the day started.


The trail here was very nice and mellow with rolling ups and downs through open woods. The rocks were still present, but not as deadly as the day before. There was one steep descent, but other than that this section was generally uneventful. At the end of the descent there is what appears to be a dried up swamp/pond near Long Pine Pond. It was a very interesting area, I wondered if it is usually like that in July or if it was because of the drought. Soon after this area, the trail officially enters the Crater Lake area with a short scramble, intersecting old woods roads from the Tocks Island Dam controversy, and a view of the surrounding area. We ran into a thru-hiker right before the scramble who we realized we had seen the previous day which was fun. I didn't realize that the AT never actually provides a view of Crater Lake. If I had known this (aka done research) before, I probably would have added a side trip to the main parking area. I recognized the area once the Hemlock Pond Trail appeared, and this section of trail was very forgiving with its terrain. 


The trail continues on towards Rattlesnake Mountain, but first passes the trail junction with the Buttermilk Falls Trail and another series of old woods roads. I had originally thought I hiked to the top of Mt. Paradise, but now looking at the map I haven't! There used to be a NJ1K hiking list, but it seems its no longer maintained. Maybe I'll make my own... Someday! Either way, we climbed moderately and steadily to Rattlesnake Mountain where there were nice views. It was very humid this day (like all of my AT hikes this summer...) so I was SOAKED (also as per usual...). We had a nice break and pretended we weren't overheated beyond belief. Had a nice meat stick break and Gen surprised me with a rice krispy treat which probably saved my life. 


The final stretch of new trail was a descent down Rattlesnake, a short climb up the viewless Bird Mountain, and then crossing the boundary back into Stokes State Forest to the top of Blue Mountain, which had beautiful views just like last time. I was a little bummed that the day's haziness prevented views into the Catskills, but I got over myself and enjoyed what I could. At this point, I had already been on this stretch of trail so it was smooth sailing down to the junction with Brink Road, which we turned onto to slowly make our way back to Tillman Ravine. The road was wide and well traveled, passed what appeared to be a really nice elevated shelter area, and then made it to a junction with another woods road. The NYNJTC Map has parking areas labeled on this road which makes me wonder if/when the gate is ever open. The NJDEP map does not have any parking areas there, which makes me even more curious.


Anyway, we continued on Brink Road which immediately crossed a beautiful meadow and then reentered the woods for the remainder of the hike. The rest of the road was gentle, eroded, and overall featureless. I was delighted to see that it was not overgrown. We could have taken the Red Maple Trail, but this way saved us some miles and terrain, which we needed because we had an even longer hike planned for the next day. Brink Road terminates back at Dimon Road, which led right to the parking area. Hike #2 done!


"Crater Lake Trails" from Kittatinny Trails, 2004
        "Local mythology claims that Crater Lake was created by a meteorite sometime during the 19th century. It seems more likely this beautiful mountain feature is another glacial lake like nearby Sunfish and Catfish ponds, despite its crescent shape and the high bluffs on the northwest side.
        Crater Lake is far off the beaten track. Its large parking area and picnic grounds are at the end of a 2.4 mile long gravel road (Skyline Drive) which starts at the end of Blue Mountain Lakes Road. These roads dead end 5.5 miles from Old Mine Road.
        The AT crosses at the point where Blue Mountain Lakes Road turns into Skyline Drive.
        Buttermilk falls is the highest falls in New Jersey, about 200 feet high. It is best viewed in spring since at other seasons the water volume is quite low. The falls are at the western end of the Buttermilk Falls Trail, which is several miles from Walpack on the gravel Mountain Road."

Step-By-Step
  • Drop car at upper Tillman Ravine parking lot.
  • Drive to the end of Fairview Lake Road and park other car.
  • Walk past gate and up the road to Blue Mountain Lakes Road.
  • At top, follow Blue Mountain Lakes Road for short distance to Appalachian Trail.
  • Turn right onto Appalachian Trail northbound. 
  • Be sure to follow blazes throughout this whole section as there are many old woods roads. I will note junctions with blazed trails, but there are many more intersections than just these.
  • At junction with orange-blazed Crater Lake Trail, continue straight onto AT.
  • At second junction with orange-blazed Crater Lake Trail, continue right onto AT/Orange trail.
  • Orange trail leaves toward Hemlock Pond, AT continues on.
  • At junction with blue-blazed Buttermilk Falls Trail, continue on AT.
  • Summit Rattlesnake, Bird, and Blue Mountains.
  • Descend Blue Mountain, turn left onto Brink Road toward AT shelter.
  • At shelter, continue on Brink Road.
  • At gate, cross woods road and continue on Brink Road.
  • Cross meadow on Brink Road, continue to gate at Dimon Road.
  • Turn left onto Dimon Road to Tillman Ravine parking lot.


Thursday, July 7, 2022

Appalachian Trail: Culvers Gap to Blue Mountain (Stokes State Forest)

Appalachian Trail: Culvers Gap to Blue Mountain (Stokes State Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 9.6 miles
Elevation: 1483 feet
Time: 4 hours, 10 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Jersey Appalachian Trail


Fun Facts I Just Learned Reading Wikipedia
  • Kittatinny is a Lenape word for "endless hill"/"great mountain"
  • Culvers Gap was formed by an ancient stream
  • "Blue Mountain" was the original name for Kittatinny Mountain (the name for the whole ridge), and it is still the name for the ridge in PA
  • Blue Mountain is where the "Lawrence Line" divided East and West New Jersey in 1743

The Hike
Summer has officially begun! I'm back in New Jersey working my summer job, and since that gets out at noon I have plenty of afternoon time for hiking. I was going to continue my quest to day-section-hike the NJ section of the Appalachian Trail, hopefully finishing by the beginning of August. Today's hike was Culvers Gap off of US-206 in Stokes State Forest to Rattlesnake Mountain about 6 miles away (and back). I didn't get all the way to Rattlesnake, but still had a great 9.6 mile hike on this humid afternoon.


The hike got an interesting start... when I pulled into the parking lot there was a man walking around with a literal machete. I then realized he was hosting trail magic from his van with multiple tables of snack/drink set up and at least a dozen lawn chairs. I guess it was a magic machete that was used for good? I will admit I felt weird pulling into this parking lot where someone was hosting trail magic, as I am someone who is only day hiking and does not feel worthy of that and did not want to get confused for someone who did (I did not). Either way, I parked my car, walked into the porta potty, immediately walked out once I saw the collection of human waste inside, and got to my hike!


I know bears have been extra present this summer just from my mom's neighborhood, but I was reminded of that from a sign right on the trail of a bear with bear safety facts. Did people in other states spend a significant amount of their childhood learning about bear safety? I will run from a snake and scream at a grouse, but I know literally everything that I need to do if/when I encounter a bear. I feel like that's not normal.... oh well. The first section of trail, the parking lot to the road crossing, was relatively flat and uneventful. Crossing US-206 took a minute since it is a busy road, and then the trail dips back into the woods on the other side.


The trail starts climbing up to the Kittatinny Ridge, which is when my body reminded me that it's still tired from the whites on Sunday (and that I had 3.5 liters of water on me), so the sweat began to POUR. Thankfully, this is New Jersey, and no climb is ever too long or steep. The trail climbed through a beautiful fern-y area, through a powercut that offered views to the lake down below, and then I accidentally disturbed a mom and daughter deer having their afternoon snack! I saw the fawn and got my camera ready to take a photo, and then I realized mom was probably 10 feet away and scared the life out of me! Thankfully, I did not scare the life out of them and they continued about their lovely day. Up on the ridgeline there are partial views of the valley below and lots of grassy hiking - no ticks though!


The trail is relatively level with a few ups and downs - I ended up counting three longer climbs/descents (the first, one in the middle, and the one up Blue Mountain), but nothing got difficult. The trail continues to alternate between ridge and forest, with some sections being longer than others. At one point relatively early on (in the first few miles), there is a magnificent view of the valley and lakes below. Following this view, the trail remains relatively featureless minus a few view spurs that I missed. What really stood out about this section was seeing a bobcat! I noticed some animal knee-high walking along the trail probably 30-or-so feet ahead of me, but the trail was too grassy to get a great look. When the animal spotted me it leapt into the forest, but I was able to catch a glimpse of the tail which solidified my sighting - how exciting! I then proceeded to give a round of applause just to make sure I was alone from this moment on. Naturally, the woods didn't like that, and I heard a new sound that almost sounded like a horse's hooves clonking about. It was a MASSIVE turkey just going about its day, completely unbothered by me. I wondered if the bobcat was trying to prepare thanksgiving dinner?


There are three junctions along this route - first with the Acropolis Trail which happens soon after crossing US-206, the second is for the Ladder Trail, and the third is with Brink Road/Shay Trail to the shelter. One of my favorite stretches of forest was near the junction with the Ladder Trail - it was filled with spaced out trees and the floor was covered in ferns and other small, lush, green plants. Just gorgeous! There was a strange patch of just a few rhododendron too.


The final climb was the hardest for me, either because it was actually difficult or because I was starting to feel tired, but it was also the most rewarding. The views from Blue Mountain (not labeled as such on the NJDEP Map, but is labeled on the NYNJTC map) are magnificent - primarily facing the Delaware River. My favorite part was seeing the High Point Monument on the right, and a little to the left of that were some of the Catskill high peaks. If I didn't have to be home for dinner I could have spent a good amount of time here. I descended into the forest very briefly - I knew that I was not going to make it all the way to Rattlesnake, and I had set 3:30pm as my turn-around-time, and it was already 3:40, but I wanted to see if a trail on AllTrails was real or not since I would have to plan a new hike to Rattlesnake (it was not real). I hiked roughly to the Stokes State Forest Boundary and turned around to make the trek back. I considered taking one of the side trails and the woods road back, but I have been burned by trails in NJ too many times, especially in the Kittatinies, so I didn't want to risk hiking a trail without doing any prior research (I specifically think back to the time, apparently exactly 8 years ago today, to when I got very lost in the Blue Mountain Lakes area due to overgrown, unmapped, and unblazed trails). 


The return trip was fairly uneventful. No new wildlife thankfully! The sun started to peek out of the clouds which illuminated some of the darker areas before. There was one section that looked like a pond of dry rocks - I wonder if it is usually a swamp in wetter seasons? I made my way back to US-206, spent too long waiting for a window to cross, and made my way back to the car. I found a sign on a tree saying that the trail magic is every day in July from 9am-2pm, which is so kind. Then, I found another sign saying that it is open to all AT thru, section, and day hikers (and dogs), which was even more kind! I still wouldn't have participated, but it is very thoughtful nonetheless. I did see probably 5-7 thru hikers, all who were clearly on a mission. We exchanged friendly hellos, and one did ask me how far the next shelter was, and I actually knew the answer! Big day. My hike ended with a number-one in the awful porta potty, a quick change at the car, and then a peanut butter sandwich while driving home. I think I'll be able to manage this challenge, and I'm really excited to keep exploring the AT in my home state!


Step-By-Step
*This whole hike is exclusively on the Appalachian Trail, first southbound, then northbound.*
  • Park at Culvers Gap parking area.
  • From parking lot, turn left to hike on the Appalachian Trail southbound.
  • Carefully cross US-206 and turn left to road walk for a very short bit.
  • Behind the guardrail, continue into the woods along the AT.
  • Junction with Acropolis Trail, continue on AT.
  • Junction with Jacob's Ladder Trail, continue on AT.
  • Junction with Brink Road to Brink Shelter, conitinue on AT.
  • Reach beautiful summit of Blue Mountain. After enjoying the view, turn around and retract stpes.