Sunday, June 25, 2023

Mt. Monadnock via Parker, Bald, & Hinkley (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Parker, Bald, & Hinkley (Monadnock State Park)

Hike Type: Loop w/ Spurs
Distance: 10.54 miles
Elevation: 2,664 feet
Time: 6 hours, 21 minutes (5 hours, 27 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: Monadnock Redliner


The Hike
My most recent return to Mt. Monadnock started like any jaunt to the mountain would - with intense tummy cramps and absolutely destroying the Whichendon Cumberland Farms! The morning was mostly overcast, but the clouds began to part as the sun began to rise which was absolutely beautiful. At one point the only cloud was the cloud hugging the mountain as it was illuminated in a stunning pink. I was definitely grateful for the unique view, but also definitely manifesting the clouds parting by the time I head to the top. 


My shoes were still wet from yesterday's sweat and there were only two other cars at the trailhead. I put my pre-paid parking pass on the windsheild and got my adventure started! The vegetation was lush around the reservoir, which I guess is nice, but it obstructed the views of the mountain. The Parker Trail started off foggy and wet with a few red efts. I wrote in my notes that my pack was heavy with 4.5L of liquids, but I would later learn that that was by no means enough (oops). Thankfully the bugs were still asleep, and there were a few moments of mud on the trail, but all was avoidable. 


Continuing on the Parker Trail I slowly became a spiderweb - clearly I was the only fool hiking on this indirect trail on a weekday morning. There was a stream crossing over a footbridge near a massive glacial erratic... and then my stomach hit. It was time to christen the woods of Monadnock State Park... again. I nearly destroyed a spider's home but thanks to the fog and moisture I was able to see it, so I guess that was a win!


The fog thickened after the junction with Cliff Walk, which created a very spooky ambiance in the woods. The one loud songbird and couple of woodpeckers definitely added to the spook as well. The guidebook describes an "obscure path to a viewpoint on little Mtn.," which I found relatively easily. It had a very narrow footbed with soaking wet vegetation on either side. I'm sure the view would have been nice, but I only got to see the inside of a cloud. There were LOTS of baby blueberries, though! Upon returning to the Parker Trail, I noticed there's a "Parker Trail" sign right at the spur path junction.


There was a slight descent which led to the terminus of the Parker Trail, where I saw my first person of the day who was blasting 80's funk music on his phone. The return trip to the Cliff Walk junction was relatively quick and easy, with stunning rays of light shining through the clouds. 


The Cliff Walk truly gets right to business with steep climbing that leads to a ladder which was sketchy, slippery, wet, and covered in spider webs. The trail continued to steeply climb up to Hello Rock, where the clouds parted just for a moment so I could enjoy the view, wring out my shirt, and stare into the void. I was advanced sweaty. 


There were more baby blubes at Hello Rock, and the Hello Rock Trail was a lovely, gentle rollercoaster through a soft footbed shrouded in fog. There was a light breeze, which basically meant it was raining with the water falling off of the canopy. I was starting to develop a headache, which was a bummer, so I slowed my pace and began to drink more water. 


The clouds continued to lift and thin once I arrived at the Halfway House clearing and then I made my way up to the Thoreau Trail, which was in similar character to all of the Halfway House area trails - beautiful, soft, a little confusing, and beautiful. The crest of the trail had some slippery rocks which was humbling, but I survived! The Thoreau Trail terminates at Thoreau's Seat, and then I wiggled my way down to the Do Drop Trail.


I couldn't help but appreciate how ridiculously I was steaming on these trails. The Do Drop Trail was STEEP, which required some slow going and downwards scrambling (similar to the Great Pasture Trail, but more organized). I did get off-trail at one point, and only figured it out becuase it looked flat out dangerous to descend the way I was going. I grabbed onto some thin trees to help me down, which in turn shook more and more water onto my already saturated body. 


Do Drop dropped down (haha) to the Side Foot Path, which led to my final trail in the area - the Noble Trail. The Noble Trail was thigh steep - lots steps instead of a slope. There were beautiful muted greens along the moss-covered trail, and I had the delightful sensation of my right foot suctioning to the insole of my boot because it was so comically wet. 


Noble Trail terminates at the Cliff Walk, and then it was a short hike with gentle inclines (and lots of wet trees) up to Bald Rock, where I took a lovely long break. There is a magnificent view of the upper reaches of Mt. Monadnock from Bald Rock, and I was lucky enough to catch it as clouds rolled over the top which made for a very relaxing show. I got to enjoy my leftover pizza, fully wring out my sopping wet clothes, and mourned the screen of my camera, as some moisture got inside and I couldn't see anything anymore - exciting!



Leaving Bald Rock I had a decision to make - I know I needed to wiggle my way over to the Old Ski Path, but I couldn't decide if I wanted to go summit. Pros: self-gratification and possibility of pretty views; Cons: ouch, rocks could be slippery. I continued on, procrastinating my decision. Most of the rock slabs had a good grip, but there were some on the Smith Connecting Trail that were wet and slippery. There was a really lovely stream crossing, and I got to pee with a stunning view toward Massachusetts. 


When I made it to the White Dot/Cross junction, I decided to go for the summit and reminded myself that I can turn around at any time, and I made the right choice! It was completely dry once above the trees with stunning views. There would be an occasional cloud that rolled through, which just added to the experience. The summit itself was surprisingly uncrowded, but I guess it wasn't even 10:00am yet. I was a little stressed about the slabs going down, but I let myself take a nice long break before worrying about that. 


I eventually got a move on when the flies started to wake up, and the slabs were no problem. My long, roundabout return trip took quite some time, and I passed at least 100 people. My favorite person I passed is the one who said "do I really have to go back down that???". I was definitely swimming upstream while descending White Dot, but it was part of the trail I still needed! There were some tricky sections on the descent with one fun butt slide, and I did worry that I missed the Old Ski Path, but eventaulyl I hit a shoulder and found it (just after watching someone who dragged their girlfriend on this hike have a panic attack due to steepness). 


I quickly learned that "old" is the key word of the Old Ski Path - it was very wet and overgrown, but thankfully always with a clear footpath. If my feet weren't already soaked, they would have been after this one. I was also blessed with the tremendous thumping of a grouse's wings on this path, which took at least a couple years off of my life. I only needed this trail as an out-and-back, so I felt like I was turning a jack-in-a-box on the return, just waiting for the grouse to scare the life out of me again. Thankfully, we did not bother each other for a second time. I did slip on a rock and almost fall, but we'll look past that.



The rest of my trip down White Dot was more swimming upstream, so I was very relieved to finally make it to Cascade Link. Where everyone turned right, I turned left to connect to Red Spot (forgetting that I also needed the section that connects to White Cross... ugh. Also unfortunately, I started cramping up in the upper section of Cascade Link nearer Red Spot, so much that I made the rough choice to turn around and get the rest another day. For whatever reason I didn't decide to filter water at the lovely stream all over this trail, and instead to just suffer in sweat. 


I did decide to finish my hike with the Harling and Hinkley Trails, which I was lucky to enjoy all by  myself, and some biting insects. There were some blowdowns on both H trails, which gave my cramping body a run for its money. The Harling trail was rather uneventful, but the Hinkley Trail followed a lovely stream that carved into the bedrock and was the home of many frogs and mossy cascades. 


The Hinkley Trail terminates at Poole Road, the entrance road for the pain parking area, and I had a cruel and unusual uphill walk to get back to the parking lot. To add insult to injury, a ranger stopped me as I walked in and asked me to pay, as if I didn't look like I was fighting for my life for the past 10 miles. Thankfully, he didn't give me any troubles once I told him I already went up and down the mountain. 


Back at my car, I chugged a warm gatorade and any liquids I could find, carefully changed my clothes to avoid cramping, and sped back to the Winchendon Cumbies to add some sustinace back to my body. Even with the pain and the orphaned trails, it was another great day on Monadnock!

Step-By-Step
- Part at Park HQ. 
- Start hike by walking up and behind the camp store.
- After picnic pavillion, turn left onto road along Poole Reservoir.
- Officially begin hike on Parker Trail, continuing straight.
- Hike Parker Trail to its terminus at Old Toll Road (at the height of land just before the road, turn right and follow unofficial trail to view).
- At Old Toll Road, turn around and retrace steps.
- At Cliff Walk junction, turn right onto Cliff Walk.
- At next junction, turn left onto Hello Rock Trail.
- At terminus, continue straight/veer slightly right onto Thoreau Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto Cliff Walk.
- At next junction, turn left onto Do Drop Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Side Foot Trail.
- At next junction, turn right onto Noble Trail. 
- At terminus, turn left onto Cliff Walk.
- Summit Bald Rock.
- Continue onto Smith Connecting Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto White Cross Trail.
- At terminus, continue straight onto White Dot Trail.
- Summit Mt. Monadnock.
- Follow White Dot Trail down the mountain.
- Turn left onto Old Ski Path.
- At terminus, turn around.
- At terminus, turn left back onto White Dot Trail.
- At next junction, turn left onto Cascade Link Trail.
- At next junction, turn right onto Harling Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Hinkley Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Poole Rd. 
- Return to car.


“Parker Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Parker Trail, opened in 1911 by Mr. and Mrs. G.H. Parker, begins at the bridge over the outlet brook below the spillway at the south end of Poole Reservoir, near the picnic area at Monadnock State Park Headquarters. It heads west across the south slope of the mountain to Old Toll Rd. and connects numerous loop hikes. Blazed with yellow rectangles, Parker Trail maintains a mostly gentle grade and provides easy walking through mature woods. 

To reach the east end of the route, follow signs for Parker Trail along an access road leading 0.1 mi. south from a pavilion near the park headquarters to the picnic area on the east side of the reservoir. Turn right here and follow a grassy road along a fence at the south end of the reservoir, passing a trail sign, and descend to a bridge over the outlet brook below the dam and spillway. Mileages begin here. 

The trail ascends moderately, crossing over two stone walls, and then becomes nearly level. At 0.6 mi. Lost Farm Trail diverges right for the upper part of Cliff Walk. Parker Trail continues at mostly easy grades, paralleling a stone wall on the left for some distance. It loops briefly out of the right past a large boulder to cross Ainsworth Brook on a new bridge, crosses two more stone walls, and then passes Hunter’s Rock, another large boulder, on the right at 1.0 mi. At 1.2 mi. Cliff Walk diverges right (sign). Parker Trail continues a gradual ascent, passes through a small wooded pass called the Notch, bears right where an obscure path to a viewpoint on Little Mtn. diverges left, and descends slightly to join Old Toll Rd. 0.6 mi. above NH 124 and 0.6 mi. below the Half Way House Site. 


“Cliff Walk” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This is one of the finest scenic trails on Mt. Monadnock, leading from Parker Trail, 0.3 mi. east of Old Toll Rd., to Bald Rock. It runs along the south and east edges of the south ridge, passing several splendid viewpoints and historical points of interest. Cliff Walk is marked with white diamonds on the trees and white Cs on the rocks, and in places it is steep and rough. Cut in the 1890s, it was a popular route for guests staying at the Half Way House. 

From Parker Trail, Cliff Walk ascends briefly northeast then swings left and climbs a steep pitch (with a ladder). It ascends moderately, with some steep pitches and occasional short descents, west and north through woods to Hello Rock on the right at 0.6 mi., where there is a good view east. The path drops into a wooded col, where Hello Rock trail (sign) diverges left, and then it climbs northeast, reaching the fine outlook known as Point Surprise at 0.7 mi. At the spot where Point Surprise Trail (sign) departs on the left, Cliff Walk dips into the woods behind the outlook and continues across the flank of the mountain past a side path on the right (sign) at 0.8 mi. that leads 20 yd. to the viewpoint known as What Cheer Point. Cliff Walk then descends briefly to Black-Throated Blue Point (another outlook) before climbing to the viewpoint called Ainsworth’s Seat. Past this site, the route descends slightly to a junction at 1.0 mi., where Lost Farm Trail joins from the right. (An excellent viewpoint sits 15 yd. down this trail.) Here, Cliff Walk swings left and climbs steeply to the ledge known as Thoreau’s Seat (sign and view). Just beyond, Thoreau Trail (sign) leaves on the left. Cliff Walk soon turns left (west) again by the wooded ledge called Emerson’s Seat. It dips and then climbs rough ledges, passing Do Drop Trail (sign) on the left at 1.2 mi. Then it swings north and crosses an outcropping with a good view south. In another 60 yd., Noble Trail (sign) diverges left. (Hikers can reach a ledge with good views west and up to the summit of Mt. Monadnock by following this trail for 40 yd.) Cliff Walk continues north, climbing past a short sidepath on the left that leads to the boulders and crevices of the geologic feature known as the Wolf’s Den (see p. 37), and then past another path leading to the Graphite Mine (see p. 37). The trail then climbs steeply up ledges to the summit of Bald Rock, where Smith Connecting Link continues ahead (north). (Hedgehog Trail, which used to diverge left here, is now closed.) Visitors can see fine views in all directions here, including the summit of Mt. Monadnock to the north.


“Thoreau Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Opposite the junction of Hello Rock Trail and Point Surprise Trail, Thoreau Trail (D4) diverges left, climbing moderately and then gradually through spruce woods to Cliff Walk a few yards above the ledge called Thoreau’s Seat.


“Do Drop Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Do Drop Trail (D4) begins on Slide Foot Trail 0.1 mi. from the Half Way House Site and makes a rough steep climb to Cliff Walk.


“Noble Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Noble Trail (C4) begins on SLide Foot Trail 0.2 mi. from the Half Way House Site and ascends to Cliff Walk, about 0.1 mi. north of Do Drop Trail.


“Smith Connecting Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

The bare peak on Mt. Monadnock’s south ridge at the upper terminus of Cliff Rock is Bald Rock; its high point is a sharp-sided boulder inscribed “Kiasticuticus Peak.” From Bald Rock, Smith Connecting Link (C4), marked with yellow Ss, descends a short distance north over ledges, and at 0.2 mi. reaches Four Spots, a trail junction. (Here, the park that forks left is the eastern end of Amphitheatre Trail, described below, connecting with Side Foot, White Arrow, and Smith Summit Trails.) Smith Connecting Link continues straight ahead at this junction and ascends moderately through woods and then over ledges to White Cross Trail, 0.1 mi. below its upper junction with White Dot Trail. (Smith Connecting Link once continues across White Dot Trail to Red Spot Trail, but that section is no longer maintained). 


“White Dot Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This popular trail, marked with round white paint spots, starts at the parking area near the Monadnock State Park Headquarters at the west end of Poole Rd. It was blazed in 1900 by N.E. Paine, his three songs, and William Royce. 

From the south, reach this major trailhead by following NH 124 west 2.3 mi. from its junction with NH 137 and US 202 in Jaffrey then turning right (north) on Dublin Rd. at a sign for Monadnock State Park. Drive 1.3 mi. on Dublin Rd. and turn left at the main state park entrance onto Poole Rd. Drive 0.7 mi. to the gatehouse and park in the parking lot on the left. The trail starts farther west along Poole Rd., diverging to the right at a prominent sign and passing to the left of a small visitor center. From the north, approach the trailhead from NH 101 in Dublin. From the flagpole in the village center, follow NH 101 west 0.3 mi. then turn left (south) onto Upper Jaffrey Rd. at a state park sign. Follow this road (which becomes Dublin Rd.) 5.1 mi., passing the Gilson Pond entrance on the right 3.5 mi. from NH 101, and turn right onto Poole Rd. at the main state park entrance. 

White dot trail directly ascends the mountain and is quite steep in its middle section and on the summit cone, with slippery ledges, some of which requires scrambling. This is perhaps the most heavily used trail on Mt. Monadnock. It begins on a broad woods road, descends slightly, crosses a small brook, then ascends moderately. At 0.5 mi. White Cross Trail splits off to the left on a section that was formerly known as Spruce Link. White Cross and White Dot trails run roughly parallel from here and rejoin high up on the mountain White Dot Trail is steeper but only 0.1 mi. shorter than White Cross.

White Dot Trail climbs gradually through the woods to a junction with Cascade Link (right) just above Falcon Spring (on the left via a short side loop path) at 0.7 mi. The section of White Cross Trail formerly leading to the left here has been closed. White Dot Trail goes straight at the junction just above Falcon Spring, ascends teh steep ridge over rock steps and ledges that may be slippery when wet, and emerges at 1.1 mi. on the semi-open plateau near treeline. It passes Old Ski Path, which descends right (north-east) 0.2 mi. and 150 ft. to Red Spot Trail. White Dot Trail then climbs on ledges through meager evergreens. At 1.6 mi., on the flat southeast shoulder, White Dot Trail crosses the abandoned northern section of Smith Connecting Link. White Cross Trail rejoins on the left at 1.7 mi. White Dot Trail then dips into a spruce grove before continuing 0.3 mi. up steep, slanting ledges to the summit. 

Descending, White Dot Trail drops off the summit to the southeast; look for “To State Park HQ” and a large white dot and cross painted on a ledge.


“Cascade Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This trail, cut in 1921 by AMC’s Worcester Chapter, runs between White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring and Pumpelly Trail, angling upward, south to north. Combined with Pumpelly Trail, it forms an interesting descent route from the summit to the state park headquarters. When adding either Spellman Trail or Red Spot Trail, it offers the most varied ascents from the east side of the mountain.

Cascade Link, marked with yellow disks, starts at White Dot Trail, just above the short side loop to Falcon Spring. It runs northeast, descends slightly, and rises to the junction with Harling Trail on the right at 0.1 mi. Then Cascade Link swings left and rises gently, but on rocky terrain through hardwood forest. It passes a side path that leads 30 yd. right to a small cascade on Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook), and at 0.3 mi. it crosses this mossy brook before climbing gradually over ledges in thick woods. At 0.5 mi. Cascade Link turns left as Birchtoft Trail enters on the right. [...].


“Harling Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Lightly used, unblazed Harling Trail connects Hinkley Trail, 0.6 mi. north of Poole Rd., with Cascade Link 0.1 mi. north of its junction with White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring. Harling Trail was opened in 1914 by E.J. Harling, the second fire warden on the summit. 

From Hinkley Trail, Harling Trail ascends gradually west on an old woods road, passing junctions with two ski trails on the left and then another on the right at 0.3 mi. It soon reaches another junction with a ski trail on the left (sign: “XC 14”). Here, Harling Trail turns right and in 20 yd. turns left and begins climbing steadily. The trail swings left as it reaches Cascade Link; from here, follow Cascade Link right for Red Spot, Spellman, and Pumpelly Trails, or left for White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring.


“Hinkley Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This pleasant, lightly used trail, marked with yellow rectangles, leads from Poole Rd., 0.2 mi. east of the state park headquarters gatehouse entrance, to Birchtoft Trail, 0.9 mi. west of the Gilson Pond trailhead. Its northern section was recently extended to provide loop hike possibilities from the new campground at Gilson Pond. The trail sign is set back from the road, although a yellow blaze is visible. Because there is no parking at the start of the trail, hikers should leave their vehicles in the main lot in the state park and walk 0.2 mi. back down Poole Rd.

Once found, Hinkley Trail is easy to follow. From Poole Rd. it leads north at easy grades with minor ups and downs. At about 0.4 mi., it approaches small, attractive Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook) on the right and follows the water, climbing gradually and swinging left to the junction with Harling Trail, which diverges on a woods road to the left at 0.6 mi. Here, Hinkley Trail turns right onto the woods road, crosses the brook on a culvert, and in 10 yd. turns left off the road. After another 50 yd., a ski trail diverges left at XC junction #18. Hinkley Trail descends gradually, crosses bridges over two small brooks, and ascends to meet Birchtoft Trail. 


Map of Monadnock State Park

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