The Hike
The drive from the Plymouth Walmart to the Lambert Ridge Trail trailhead was a long one (hour-ish), but a pretty one! There was a great view of Mt. Cube at one point, and there was lots of fog over the Connecticut River (that I sadly did not get to see from a viewpoint - wrong side of the mountain... oh well). The parking area is off of the gravel Dorchester Road and was a muddy, wet mess with PLENTY of mosquitos buzzing about. I stepped out of my car immediately into a beautiful cloud of DEET, the wind immediately picked up thankfully, and my tummy had a very familiar rumble that I was NOT too pleased about.
The first bit of trail started climbing immediately, but with a good amount of walking breaks to balance out the ups. The trail crossed through an old stone wall about halfway to the first viewpoint, and the next stretch of trail was rather grassy... We all know what that means (ticks). The trail eventually makes a hard left turn onto the spine of the ridge - continuing straight there is a small herd path to a small view toward a nearby hill. I checked this out, slipped on a rock, and had quite the dramatic fall. No further than 10 inches from my face was a blade of grass with a tick on it. I was NOT happy, but I ultimately survived unscathed.
The next stretch of trail was very reminiscent of the Kittatinny Ridge/Appalachian Trail in New Jersey - following the spine of the ridge on large sections of rock. It started as a steeper climb, but eventually leveled out to a great, open view that was still pretty hazy. The deciduous trees are in the last stage of "spring green", which made for some nice colors.
Following the first view the ridge walk continued, with occasional ups and downs, some steeper/more annoying than others. I can't help but give a shout-out to the rocks on this hike - they were all beautiful! The slabs looked like paintings, there were quartz veins in abundance, and the occasional ridiculously sparkly pebble too! I played leap frog with a couple of thru-hikers in this middle section, one of which had the strongest southern accent. The final view of the ridgewalk was truly painful - a fantastic view of Smarts Mountain, looking obnoxiously tall and comically far away (I might be dramatic...). I gawked at this view, asked myself if I really wanted to continue on, and then sucked it up. The Lambert Ridge Trail climbs just a little bit more to the high point of the ridge, and then plunges into a col between the Lambert Ridge and Smarts Mountain.
The col was actually beautiful - lovely coniferous woods. My stomach also decided that it was time to christen these woods, or risk catastrophe. I made my way into the woods behind a lovely rock and tree, did what I had to do, and was rewarded with seeing my favorite flower - a lady slipper! It seems like a small feat, but I was elated! The latter half of the col was muddy, but there were plenty of boardwalks and rocks to make it all avoidable, and then things got a little more interesting.
We were back to climbing, and steeply climbing! The trail started with good footing along a treadway lined with at least 15 lady slippers, and then the good footing turned into very wet slab rocks. Not the best, but I somehow didn't slip! This led to the junction with the Ranger Trail, and the nonsense continued along. The pinnacle of pain here was a log staircase followed by rebar steps up a particularly slimy rock slab. It truly was fine, but I was feeling the adrenaline!
This was the last major obstacle, minus continuing to steeply climb up the ridge. The trail came to a switchback before continuing the steep climb, where I met two hikers with their disobedient, off-leash dogs... at least they were cute! The final push was significantly easier, and just before I made it to the top I found a sign that made me feel a whole kind of way... "PRIVY ->". Could I have made up here? I will never know. For as often as I do it, I truly do not enjoy pooping in the woods, and a privy would have been nice... maybe. For my own sanity, I did not check it out.
The short spur to the fire tower is just after the privy spur, and the tower is right there. I climbed up and noticed the cabin was open, but involved pushing up a heavy door in some decent wind, all while holding my camera... and that was just not for me. I took a bunch of photos from the top landing and heard my souther thru-hiker friend take a pee in the woods, which was actually very funny to me. When I came down we chatted for a bit (the second of many times I was asked if I was thru or section hiking and I had to explain I needed a day off so I drove up here), I checked out the cabin briefly, and worked my way down the mountain. I wanted to stay up top for a bit longer, but my desire to not talk to anyone overpowered and won the battle!
My return trip was medium-quick, with just a few stops to chat with thru and section hikers, not fall down the wet slabs, and fight for my life on the occasional uphills. Near the very end I met a large group (spaced out, though) that included an 80-year old hiker who was NOT having a blast. I hope he got some rest!
Back at the car my legs were TIRED, and I realized that was because I had banged out another day with over 10 miles and over 4,000 feet of gain, which I think is something I want to keep trying to maintain for my long days. It feels good to push myself, and the more confident I get in high elevation days, the more likely I am to actually succeed in doing a full presidential traverse one day! I was so happy I was able to get out, exercise, not die of smoke inhalation, all while there was a bit of sun, a lovely breeze, and minimal bugs. That was... until... disaster struck. I took off my shoes, then my socks, and saw something that didn't belong on my ankle. It was red-orange, and didn't move when swatted. I turned into a chihuahua having a seizure, shaking and flailing. I told myself to SETTLE DOWN AND JUST TAKE IT OFF and I literally yelled. It was likely a wood tick trying to ROB me of my precious blood. I was shaking so hard (phobias, damn) but pulled through withOUT crying, and that was the biggest accomplishment of the day!
Step-By-Step
- Park car at AT crossing on Dorchester Rd. in Lyme, NH (Smarts Mountain Trailhead on Google Maps).
- Start hike on Lambert Ridge Trail/Appalchian Trail (white blazes).
- Follow Lambert Ridge Trail for almost 4 miles to summit of Smarts Mountain.
- Turn left onto very short spur path to Fire Tower (blue blaze).
- Retrace steps back to car.
“Lambert Ridge Trail” from AMC White Mountain Guide (31st Ed.)
This scenic trail, with several viewpoints, is the segment of the AT between Dorchester Rd. and the summit of Smarts Mtn. The trail is described south to north. To reach the trailhead, follow Dorchester Rd. east from NH 10 in Lyme. At 3.2 mi., bear left where Grafton Turnpike diverges right to the Dartmouth Skiway and continue on a gravel section of Dorchester Rd. to a small parking area on the left (plowed in winter; in spring may be muddy or flooded) at 5.1 mi. from NH 10. Roadside parking is not permitted.
From the parking area, Lambert Ridge Trail (sign) leaves on the left and ascends moderately by switchbacks through a fine hardwood forest, passing through a stone wall at 0.4 mi. After a steeper pitch, the trail crosses a ledge with a southwest view and soon reaches an extensive ledgy area with a view east at 0.8 mi. Here, Lambert Ridge Trail turns sharply left at the edge of a cliff and continues climbing along the ridge, alternately through the woods and over ledges, with occasional views. At 1.8 mi., a fine view of the summit of Smarts Mtn. appear ahead, and in the next 0.2 mi., the trail passes several more outlooks, with minor ups and downs between the ledges.
From the highest ledge, Lambert Ridge Trail descends steeply then gradually, swinging right into a wet sag with a small stream at 2.3 mi. The trail then bears right (northeast) and ascends gradually along a shoulder with occasional brief descents; parts of this section are often muddy. Lambert Ridge Trail then climbs a fairly steep and rough section with several slippery ledges to join Ranger Trail, which comes in from the right at 3.3 mi. The combined trails climb rather steeply by switchbacks up the west side of the mountain; at the first right turn, the trails ascend a steep, wet slab via log and rock stairs and iron rungs. At 3.8 mi., the grade eases, and a spur leads right 50 yd. To a tentside with a view south; at 3.9 mi., a short side path leads left to the recently restored fire tower. The combined trails continue another 15 yd. to a jct. where J Trail diverges right, carrying the AT northward, and blue-blazed Daniel Doan Trail diverges left, reaching the warden’s cabin in 30 yd. and Mike Murphy Spring in 0.2 mi.
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