Saturday, September 16, 2023

Mt. Monadnock via Dublin Trail (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Dublin Trail (Monadnock State Park)

Distance: 4.62 miles
Elevation: 1,686 feet
Time: 2 hours, 44 minutes (2 hours, 34 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Hiking Challenges: Monadnock Redliner


The Hike 
I wasn't too sure if this hike was going to happen for two reasons: 1) there was a possible hurricane heading towards New England and forecasts predicted everything from a little bit of wind to complete and utter devistation and 2) I was moderately hungover from margarita night last night. I did wake up at 5:00am to get ready, but checked the weather and saw that it would be raining all morning, so I happily went back to bed. Later on in the morning I saw it would clear up around noon, so I pulled myself up by my bootstraps, got in the car, and went for what would be my first ever afternoon hike of Mt. Monadnock!

The drive started very wet and cloudy, but as I traveled northwest I began to see clear skies and... sun? I was absolutely shocked. When I packed, I was ready for absolutely brutal weather, and reminded myself that all I needed to complete still was the Dublin Trail to Jim's Junction, so there was literally zero pressure to summit. I was in awe when I got that first great view of the mountain from NH-124 - completely devoid of clouds! The final drive on Old Troy Road was narrow and rugged, but no worse than the drive on Shaker Farm Rd. to the Marlboro Trail (I think that one was worse due to one large rock that scraped the bottom of my CRV). The parking lot had just a few cars in it, with room for MANY more, and I got my final Monadnock Redliners hike started!


Temperatures were in the delightful low-60s, with a crisp fall feeling. I truly was emotionally ready to hike in the rain so I was beyond delighted! I was very stuffy from playing with cats last night, the hangover was hanging over, my tummy was a wreck, but I was just thrilled to be in these woods (update from the future, I was stuffy from a cold, not cats). I didn't realize that this trail was part of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail, and there was a fun sign pointing to both Monadnock and Sunapee with their respective mileages. 



The Dublin Trail crosses Old Troy Road, enters the woods, and dips down to a stream traversed by a large boardwalk. I later read that there are a couple old-growth trees in this area, estimated to be 200-300 years old - I wish I read that earlier so I could have kept my eyes open! The trail ascends from the boardwalk and parallels a beautiful old stone wall, and then descends again. This stretch of trail will be absolutely stunning in peak foliage in a few weeks!


The trail joined an old road/logging cut/clearing. Right is clearly the trail, but left continued through brush. Isn't the "Eagle's Nest" off of this trail? I haven't yet found any of the "secrets of Mt. Monadnock," but I wondered if I could "stumble upon" this one. The trail continued to follow the road grade which was absolutely delightful, and remarkably dry (especially for what I was emotionally preparing for). The trail crosses a nicely constructed (dry) drainage crossing, and then begins to ascend along the dry drainage. 


I found myself pausing at times when bursts of wind would blow across the treetops. Thankfully no trees fell on me, but I was pelted with twigs a couple times. A very beautiful, yet ominous day. The trail passes a second, more obscure road-ish path at 0.6 miles, continuing my curiosity. I was really enjoying how alone I was, and the second I wrote that in my notes I passed a group of teens with my favorite group dynamic, the ones who are clearly scouts/athletes, the ones who are here for fun, and the ones who got dragged along. 


The trees continued to howl in the wind as the trail steepened. Every steep pitch was rewarded with a walking break which was well appreciated! I saw a herd path a little further up to a mossy rock that likely had a view 50 years ago... maybe that's the Eagle's Nest footpath? I couldn't see any distinct trails leading off the rock, and I was on a mission, so another time...


After this herd path, the trail continues to climb up a nice scramble as the woods begin to open up. The trail was rocky and rooty now, but rarely with poor footing. The scrambling eventually led to a rocky ridge with views straight up to the blue sky, and if you maneuver slightly off-trail you can get a very obstructed port-hole view of the Pumpelly Ridge. 


No more than 1/10th of a mile further down the trail there was another herd path that lead to a great view looking north. The clouds were stunning, the foreground was shockingly clear, and it was clear the trees were getting ready to change colors. 


The last steep pitch led to a long, fun, rollercoaster of a trail that trended on gaining elevation. Nothing was sketchy and the scrambles were fun. There were occasional "peek-a-views," with one last obstructed one towards the Pumpelly Ridge at 1.8 miles, before fully opening up. I couldn't beleive what a beautiful day it turned out to be! I really couldn't get over the cloud formations. Hurricane Lee knew what he was doing!


To no one's surprise, it was much windier higher up, so my dreadfully smelly windbreaker went on. The sun and clouds were doing a magnificent job diffusing the light, creating an extremely peaceful environment above treeline, juxtaposed with the fericuous winds. Soon enough in the distance I saw a sign I had been waiting for - Jim's Junction! I was so geekishly, and if I may say, adorably happy to have finally completed hiking all the trails on this magnificent mountain! I was definitely in my feelings, really proud of my accomplishment, and then I decided "whats a little more wind" and I continued toward the summit. After posting my hike photos to the "GRAND MONADNOCK" FaceBook group, I was told to look up who "Jim" was, and I found this post:

"Sunday, May 20th [2012], a group of folks gathered at the junction of the Dublin and Marlboro Trails, about 0.2 miles northwest of the summit, to dedicate and sign the junction in honor of Jim Johnson. Jim was a former Monadnock employee and volunteer who not only had adopted four trails on Monadnock, but also volunteered countless hours of his time to assist on other trails on Monadnock and Gap Mountain. Jim was also a Land Steward for the Society For The Protection of New Hampshire Forests and a volunteer and trail adopted for the Appalachian Mountain Club. Jim maintained the Greenleaf Trail on Mt. Lafayette and Star Lake Trail on Mt. Madison for the AMC. We lost Jim this past winter along with his companion (and Monadnock volunteer) Carol Raynsford. We wanted to remember our lost friends and keep their commitments of stewardship and appreciation for beautiful places alive on Monadnock and chose to remember Jim at the junction of the two trails he maintained and loved the most." John F. Bigil on Facebook.


I couldn't get over how stunning the final stretch of trail was. I've done this bit twice before, both from the Marlboro Trail, both in cloudy weather. The blue sky with patchy clouds behind the summit was breathtaking. I even found some microscopic blueberries! 


The strong tailwind helped me with the final push up to the summit, and WOW. I've never felt wind quite like this! I found the summit marker and did my best to take some photos, but the gusts made it hard to stay standing. There were two others up top with me hiding in the cracks between the rocks. The water in the pools were flying all about and the alpine grasses were in constant motion. Truly an incredible sight and experience. I was so grateful to have this beautiful mountain all to myself, on a Saturday!



Because of the wind I couldn't stay long. Mountain Forecast and Open Summit both said it was about 40mph winds with gusts up to 75mph, and a graphic from weather.gov supports that (https://www.weather.gov/media/pqr/wind/wind.pdf). I was joined by either a falcon or a hawk soaring above on my trip down, which was truly impressive considering the wind speeds. 



I realized my watch paused while on the summit, which isn't the end of the world, but was a bummer. My return trip was really enjoyable - I was able to turn off my brain and just enjoy being in the woods, while basking in my accomplishment. There were a few but scootches, but everything else was pretty easy. The forest got spooker down below on the old road grade, but I made my way back to the parking lot where my car was all alone. I changed at the car and used the porta potty when one last car pulled in for a sunset hike. My drive home was stunning with the sunset (and a car fire??), and I am just so happy I was able to make this hike happen!




Step-By-Step
- Start and end hike on the Dublin Trail.


"Dublin Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
        This trail, dating to about 1840 or easlier, ascends Mt. Monadnock from the north; it is the southernmost section of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greeenway. Dublin Trail is considered one of the less challenging routes up the mountain. From the flagpole in the village of Dublin, go west on NH 101 (Main St.). At 0.4 mi. bear left on Lake Rd., which becomes Old Marlborough Rd. At 2.5 mi. go left downhill on gravel Old Troy Rd. and continue to the parking area on the right at 4.4 mi. (Beyond the houses at 3.4 mi., the road becomes narrow and rougher; it may be impassable when muddy and is often closed in spring.) The trail, marked with white rectangles (and white Ds on the upper part), leaves the west side of the parking area near a kiosk and swings left, immediately crossing Old Troy Rd. (The north-bound Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway also leaves near the kiosk, diverging to the right.) The trail climbs briefly then descends gradually to cross a small brook. At 0.4 mi. it bears right onto a logging road, and in 150 yd. turns left off that road and ascends to join the original route of the trail at 0.8 mi. It then climbs more steeply to the top of the ridge, passing an unrealiable spring (may not always have water) at 1.2 mi. The path follows a ledgy ridge with occasional good views and short scrambles, passes another unreliable spring at the foot of a rock at 2.0 mi., and emerges above timerline. Marlboro Traol enters on the right at 2.2 mi. (sign: "Jim's Junction"), just beyond a prominent cap of rock on the left, a false summit called Dublin Peak. Dublin Trail continues upward at a moderate grade - in the open, amid interesting rock formations, with occasional short scrambles - to meet SMith Summit Trail and White Arrow Trail 75 yd. below the true summit. 
        Descending, Dublin Trail leaves the summit on the northwest side, continuing in that direction to a junction in 75 yd., where White Arrow Trail diverges sharply left (south), and Smith Summit Trail diverges left (west); look for white Ds and Ms and "Dublin Trail/Marlboro Tr," painted on the ledges.

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