Mt. Mansfield via Sunset and Maple Ridges (Mt. Mansfield State Forest/Underhill State Park)
Distance: 9.20 miles
Elevation: 2,969 feet
Time: 7 hours, 42 minutes (6 hours, 16 minutes moving)
Elevation: 2,969 feet
Time: 7 hours, 42 minutes (6 hours, 16 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge, Vermont 4000 Footers, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge
The Hike
Originally we had planned to hike Mt. Mansfield on the Saturday and the Belvidere on Sunday, but the weather pointed to more favorable "view conditions" for Sunday. The weather was absolutely perfect up on Belvidere and... well, you'll see how it was up on Mansfield. We didn't sleep for too long due to the Soulja Boy concert the night before, which was.... rough, but the McDonalds full of at least 50 <21 year olds with black Xs on both hands really made for a full house. Also, Jimmy Buffett had just passed away and I simply had to stay up and doom scroll on TikTok to feel all my feelings. ANYWAY we were up at 5:20am, had the best apple muffin I've ever had in my life from Maple Fields, and couldn't help notice how cloudy it was as we approached Underhill State Park. We crawled up the dirt road in my trust Honda CRV, parked just outside the already-full parking area (I think most were camping), and christened the mid-teir porta potties before getting the party started!
Our hike started by walking past the parking area gate onto the CCC Road, and then turning onto the Eagle Cut Trail, which bypasses the switchbacks of the CCC Road. The Eagle Cut Trail was full of stone stairs and surprisingly dry, which we very much appreciated. Our packs were heavy with water and legs tired from Belvidere yesterday, but we continued on, slow and steady. The final crossing of the CCC road looked to be recently widened, which provided some cloudy views up towards a ridge (no idea which one. Either the LT or the Maple Ridge? After one more stint in the woods the trail terminates at the CCC Road.
Turning left onto the CCC Road, we followed the wide and gentle roadway, past a group campsite, and up to a high ridge with obstructed views to a cascading stream down below. Not too long after, we made it to the Sunset Ridge Trail trailhead, where just after signing the trail register, Emma noticed her bag was leaking... uh oh! She pulled out her brand new bladder, and saw that it had already sprung a pen-sized leak. We took a nice long break where Emma channeled her inner camel. Her recollection of the moment was "I was putting in the work!"
After that tragety, I gave her one of my Nalgenes and we continued along our journey. The Sunset Ridge Trail starts off by crossing many bridges and stone steps. The trail generally was wet but very manageable, and also never too steep (yet), soon passing the Laura Cowles Trail trailhead.
After a little bit of climbing, the Sunset Ridge Trail comes to a junction with the out-and-back Cantilever Rock Trail, a worthy side trip. The trail was rugged and eroded, with many streams running on the trail. There isn't much elevation change from trailhead to terminus, but there is a fair amount of small ups and downs over the 0.2 miles. Close attention should be paid to the blazes, most of which are very faded.
The trail terminates at a rocky, grassy area, with the daunting Cantilever Rock overhead. There is a large rock slab on the left that, if climbed, has a nice view of the clouded ridge and lowlands below. We decided to not take a break there to let others enjoy the features. We had a quick return to the trail junction, took a quick snack break, and ventured forth!
Now back on the Sunset Ridge Trail, we were now climbing up steeper sections with occasional wet spots. There was one great mossy rock formation that made a little natural cave. I was ahead of Emma and I said "I bet you can go through this" and Emma heard that as "I dare you to go through this." Incredibly, she tried, and ended up fully sprawled out above the hole after climbing through, similar to a turtle stuck on its back. Even better, two hikers went past us as this was happening and very politely asked "... is everything okay?" and I had the distinct honor of letting them know that everything was truly fantastic and Emma is just very silly. They got a good laugh, Emma somehow got out of her predicament, and we continued on.
The further up we went, the more people passed us on their return trips from their (cloudy) sunrise hikes. After some more hiking and a few scrambles, the trail pops out above tree line with really incredible views down into the valley and up into the abyss.
A few more folks passed us traveling in both directions as we climb up the now bare rockface. The trail here reminded me like Mt. Monadnock or the mountains of Acadia. The stabs climbed at varying grades, but never became too steep.
We were lucky enough to find a few tiny, ripe blueberries on the way up which powered us as we ventured into the thick cloud cover. It was neat to see the trail enter into the cloud ceiling and to watch the views below slowly disappear into oblivion. Naturally, we sang "Into the Unknown" from Frozen 2 during this moment.
It felt almost as if we were mooonwalking as the trail ascended into the heavens. There were a couple small scrambles where we met a dog who was overthinking way too hard about how to get down (it was not that bad) and we had the pleasure of passing a child who was aggressive hyperfixating on his headlamp (his parents were well aware that the child was a lot), and just after this very friendly hiker (who turned out to be an exception in my rule that a mans beard should not be linger than a centimeter) who loudly yelled "did you stop at a cool shirt store?!" - we were wearing our Hawaiian shirts in memoriam of Jimmy Buffet #RIP - Emma decided she had to pee, while we were fully exposed above treeline, only able to see 20 feet away from ourselves.
After making fun of Emma, I did exert my male privelege and peed off the side of a cliff, just before entering the "West Chin Natural Area" (which we described as the Mt. Mansfield Man's fuzzy beard). The trail dips back into the trees with very wet footing, but travels rather flatly before turning and steeply climbing yet again.
The final push is to the junction with the Laura Cowles Trail, and then a short jaunt to the final terminus with the Long Trail, officially entering the Alpine Zone at a gorgeous junction.
From the junction with the Long Trail, we turned left to follow the northbound route to the Chin, the official summit of Mt. Mansfield. The trail was lovely, even if fully shrouded in clouds. We had maybe 10 feet of visibility at the worst, but the wind was not horrible (it was VERY present, but not whipping). The trail crosses boardwalks, ascends moderately and then gently, and then eventually plateaus near the summit marker. The world around us was incredible and spooky, and we reminded ourselves that even though we're disappointed there aren't any views, it's still really neat to be up here in our own little world.
We hit the summit marker, took a billion photos, and explored the summit area, which was specificly fenced off with small ripes to help regrow vegetation. We took a nice long break while staring into the void, and truly loved watching people arrive and see the disappointment wash over them when they realized there was no hope for a view (cue "Schadenfreude" from Avenue Q). My tummy was still weird, but I finished my Fishers Island Lemonade like a champion, and eventually willed ourselves to get up and continue our journey.
We had a quick return to the LT junction just above the Sunset Ridge/Laura Cowles trail, and then started my favorite part of the hike. The two-ish mile ridge walk across Mt. Mansfield's face. We were wet from the windy fog but in great spirits (the Fisher's Island helped here). We had a blueberry FEAST just south of the original junction, and it did feel like we were partially swimming upstream with the amount of people heading toward the chin (many families with angry teens in converse).
We traversed across his lower lip, a few bumps that we dubbed as his tongue, and then his upper lip, carefully staying on-trail and just imagining what the views looked like on either side of us. Much further down, we noticed something we hadn't seen in hours... a... view??? From one rock outcropping there was a very faint break in the clouds that showcased a peek-a-boo window down into Stowe, which would have been great, but I also couldn't help but notice Stowe was fully illuminated in... sunlight? How on earth was the sun shining there but not here? I would later find out that the only cloud in the whole area left was over Mt. Mansfield, which I know makes meteorlogical sense, but it still hurt my feelings.
The trail crosses the auto road, follows a series of beautiful boardwalks, and leads to the visitor center with a magnificent view up to the Nose, which was still partially in the clouds. It was here that we realized most of the converse-wearing teens drove up with their families and are now on a "quick hike" to the Chin. We christened the porta potties up top (Emma loved pointing out that she could hear me doing my business from about 20 feet away) and then checked out the visitor center, which had the friendliest staff and cool historical images, books, and a 3D model of Vermont with the LT and AT outlined.
After the visitor center, we continued along a few boardwalks, into a soft, mossy woods toward the Nose. The Long Trail joins the auto road for a moment, and then branches off right. Emma and I followed the auto road a little bit to see what was there, but we realized we were still in a cloud and we wouldn't get any views anyway, so we backtracked to the LT and continued toward our final sub-peak of the day, the Forehead.
Tle Long Trail continued along more mossy boardwalks in a fairytale forest before climbing shortly and steeply to a false summit, then again to the Forehead, which, shockingly, was still in the clouds!
The trail continued to steepen, to an almost ridiculous grade, as we looked back at the ridge that was almost completely cloud-free. Thankfully, the Chin was still fully socked in.
We passed a group of backpackers that very kindly asked us to sit for a minute as they maneuvered a tricky scramble that we simply jumped down, and one guy asked another backpacker "oh no are you having a mental b right now" (implying a mental breakdown). Thankfully, it appeared she persevered. Behind us was the impressive shoulder of what I assume is the Maple Ridge.
The trail continued in and out of the woods, descending steeply between walking breaks. We followed a couple of younger hikers (late teens probably) who thankfully figured out all the downward scrambles so we didn't have to. If I were to do this hike again, I would definitely reverse directions.
There was one leap of faith I thought Emma was going to have a complete breakdown at, but she survived no problem, and soon enough the trail was officially back in the woods for good. The trail in the woods was rough, wet, slippery, and overall dreadful. Our options were to fall down the steep, wet rocks or follow the herd paths on the side - either way we lose. This part was a bummer, but we were DELIGHTED to see the terminus ahead!
Now finally free of the Maple Ridge Trail's grasp, we were back on the CCC Road. At the same junction, AllTrail showed the unmarked Tear Drop Trail, which I later learned was a skiing trail that is not maintained for summer use. The CCC road was narrower than before, but still easy hiking, with a gentle incline (that definitely still hurt at this point). We hit the height of land and I had to control myself from not sprinting back to the car. I did pause at a few points to admire the old stoneworking of the CCC, aiding in the many streams going under the road.
We hit the Sunset Ridge Trail trailhead, which was swamped with less-than-friendly hikers. We sped down the wide CCC Road, and then inched down the stairs of the Eagle Cut Trail, trying to keep Emma's knees from exploding.
Back at the car, we took our time de-crusting, and were on the road! We had a lovely view of the mile-long line of cars abutting the trailhead, and made our way to a burger truck and then the Smuggler's Notch Distillery. Truly a lovely day! This was hike #5 of the weekend and my third Vermont 4000 footer!
Step-By-Step
- Park at Underhill State Park.
- Start hike along Eagle Cut Trail.
- At terminus, turn left onto CCC Road.
- At jct., turn left onto Sunset Ridge Trail.
- At jct. with Laura Cowles, continue along Sunset Ridge Trail.
- At next jct., turn left onto Cantaliver Rock Trail.
- At terminus, turn around.
- At terminus, turn left back onto Sunset Ridge Trail.
- Follow Sunset Ridge Trail to terminus.
- At terminus, turn left onto Laura Cowles Trail.
- At termins, turn left onto Long Trail.
- Summit Mt. Mansfield (Chin).
- Retrace steps on Long Trail.
- At jct. with Laura Cowles Trail, continue along Long Trail South.
- Follow Long Trail South all the way along ridge to The Forehead.
- Turn right onto Maple Ridge Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto CCC Road.
- Follow CCC Road to Eagle Cut Trail.
- Follow Eagle Cut Trail back to car.
Note: the Garmin map is used here since my AllTrails map had me take a straight-line, 2 mile detour off the side of the mountain and back.
"Mount Mansfield Area" from Day Hiker's Guide to Vermont, 6th Ed. (2011)
Vermont's highest mountain, Mt. Mansfield (4,393 ft.), is known for its distinctive ridgeline, which resembles the profile of a human face, especially when viewed from the east. The names of its more prominent south-north features reflect this: Forehead, Nose, Upper and Lower Lips, Chin, and Adam's Apple. The Abenaki called the mountain Mose-o-de-be-Wadso (mountain with the head of a moose), and it received its present name from the town of Mansfield, disestablished and divided among adjacent towns over a century ago.
The Mt. Mansfield summit ridge supports the largest community of alpine tundra found in Vermont. This unique and delicate plant life is a remnant of the era when ice sheets covered northern New England. Few species are able to survive the extreme conditions of the summit ridge; those that do grow very slowly and hang in a delicate balance. Although these plants are hardy to the weather, they are extremely fragile to foot traffic. Please take special care to walk only on the rocks, not the plants. Above tre eline, walk only on marked trails. Camping is not permitte din any of Vermont's alpine zones.
Mt. Mansfield is the most frequently visited mountain in vermont with over 40,000 visitors and hundreds of dogs annually. This use threatens its fragile alpine ecosystem. Please leash your dog on the busy summit out of consideration for other visitors and to reduce impact to the surrounding alpine vegetation. GMC summit caretakers are stationed on the summit ridge to assist hikers and other visitors and explain the fragile nature of the alpine ecosystem. The summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield, owned and managed by the University of Vermont as a natural area, has been declared a State Natural Area and National Natural Landmark. The university, the Stowe Mountain Resort, and the Vermont Department of Forets, Parks, and Recreation help fund the caretaker program.
Although most people hike the mountain via the well-known LT from Vt. 108 and the Sunset Ridge Trail from Underhill State Park, the many other trails on the mountain are exciting and challenging. Hikers using these side trails should be in good physical condition and have sturdy boots. Backpackets may encounter difficulty on some of these trails due to ladders and tight squeezes through crevices and ledges.
Base camping in the area can be found at Smugglers' Notch and Underhill State Parks. Overnight facilities can also be found at hotels and other tourist lodgings in the surrounding area. GMC lodges are often crowded and should not be used by organized groups.
Groups are encouraged to use Twin Brooks Tenting Area or the group camping area at Underhill State Park. Information is available from the Departmnet of Forests, Parks, and Recreation, Essex Junction Regional Office, 111 West Street, Essex Junction, Vermont 05452; (802) 879-6556.
On the following pages is a comprehensive list with detailed information of the trails on Mt. Mansfield. In addition to the insert map in this guide, a detailed weather-proof map of Mt. Mansfield and the surrounding area can be purchased from the GMC. Please read the trail descriptions carefully; some of Mansfield's side trails are extremely steep and can be dangerous when wet.
"CCC Road - Maple Ridge Trail" from Day Hiker's Guide to Vermont, 6th Ed. (2011)
Note: Use extra caution on the Maple Ridge Trail in wet weather, especially if descending.
Description: From the parking lot (0.0 mi., 1,800 ft.), the old gravel CCC Road leads uphill past the locked gate, passing the group camping area and continuing to a sighboard and registration box, and the Sunset Ridge Trail leads north (left) to the Laura Cowles Trail and Sunset Ridge. (Much of this road walk can be bypassed by the Eagle's Cut Trail, which rejoins the road just below the Sunset Ridge Trail.)
The old CCC Road turns sharply right here and continues a gentle ascent. (Note the old rock culverts diverting the many streams under the CCC Road.) It passes the Halfway House Trail (1.2 mi.) and then begins a gradual descent (1.8 mi.) to the end of the road and start of the blue-blazed Maple Ridge Trail (2.1 mi., 2,500 ft.).
From the old CCC Road, the Maple Ridge Trail climbs steeply over a rough footpath, emerges on the open ridgeline (2.4 mi.), and clims to the Frost Trail (2.5 mi., 2,700 ft.), which descends south 1.2 mi. to the Stevensville parking lot. The trail continues uphill to the Rock Garden Trail (2.9 mi.), a sheltered route to Butler Lodge, then climbs very steeply over open ledges to the Wampahoofus Trail (3.4 mi., 3,500 ft.), 0.2 mi. below the Forehead.
"Sunset Ridge Trail" from Day Hiker's Guide to Vermont, 6th Ed. (2011)
From the parking lot (0.0 mi., 1,800 ft.), the old gravel CCC Road leads uphill past the locked gate, passing the group camping area and continuing to a sharp right turn and a signboard and registration box (1.0 mi.). The Sunset Ridge Trail leads north (left) and soon passes the Laura Cowles Trail (1.1 mi.), continues uphill past the Cantilever Rock Trail (1.7 mi.), then bears east and climbs to the open ridge. The trail follows cairns (rock pile trail markers) in addition to blue blazes above tree line. (An active effort is underway to narrow the trail to protect the ridge's fragile alpine vegetation. Please stay on the marked trail.) The trail passes the upper end of the Laura Cowles Trail (3.1 mi., 4,260 ft.) and, 250 ft. beyond, reaches the LT on the ridge opposte the Profanity Trail, 0.2 mi. south of the Chin.
"Cantilever Rock Trail" from Day Hiker's Guide to Vermont, 6th Ed. (2011)
Cantilever Rock, discovered in 1960 by Clyde F. and Clyde H. Smith, is a horizontal blade of rock 60 ft. above the ground wedged into the vertical face of a 100 foot cliff. It is 40 ft. long, with 31 ft. extending beyond the cliff.
Description: The trail leads north from the Sunset Ridge Trail, 0.7 mi. above the CCC Road, for 0.2 mi. to this striking phenomenon.
"Long Trail" from Day Hiker's Guide to Vermont, 6th Ed. (2011)
The Mount Mansfield area has numerous side trails to the LT and mountain ridgelines. Loop hike opportunities in this area are endless. We have included hiking descriptions for our favorite loops, but there are dozens of possible variations. Thus, we have included a detailed description of the LT below. You can create your own loop hikes by pairing the various side trails with sections of the LT. The maps on pages 302 to 303 show all the side trails in the area.
Taylor Lodge, named for James P. Taylor, founder of the GMC, was built by the Burlington Section in 1978. The lodge, with an open front porch, has an enclosed bunkroom with space for fifteen and one tent platform for overflow camping. Water runs from a reliable spring 0.2 mi. down the Lake Mansfield Trail. Because two GMC lodges have already burned at this site, wood fires are prohibited at Taylor Lodge.
Description: [...].
[...]. It emerges from the ledges and continues to ascend in the open to the highest point of the Forehead (0.9 mi., 3,940 ft.), Mt. Mansfield's south-most peak, and the junction of the Wampahoofus Trail, which descends west and south 0.2 mi. to the Maple Ridge Trail and 0.8 mi. to Butler Lodge. Wallace Cutoff to Mount Mansfield Forehead, 0.9 mi. (1.5 km), 850 ft., 3/4 hr. (rev. 1/2 hr.).
The LT proceeds north from the Forehead (0.0 mi., 3,940 ft.), enters the woods, and arrives at the north end of the Forehead By-Pass, an alternate route in stormy weather. Just beyond is the TV Road (0.3 mi.), which leads south to the north slope of the Nose, and its televisiton station buildings. The LT turns left to follow the TV Road north and in 150 ft. passes the south end of the Lakeview Trail on the left. The LT turns right and reenters the wood (0.5 mi.), then reaches the Summit Station and Mount Mansfield Visitor Center (0.6 mi., 3,849 ft.).
The Toll Road parking lot is just below the Summit Station to the east. The Visitor Center occupies part of the Summit Station and contains displays on the mountain's natural history, research efforts, and the ridge's alpine ecosystem. It is open from Memorial Day to Columbus Day.
The Summit Station is built on the site of the old summit house. One of the last of the famous mountain hotels, the Mount Mansfield Summit House was razed and burned in 1964 after more than one hundred years of operation. The Mount Mansfield Toll Road is open during summer and foliage seasons and provides automobile access to the LT from Vt. 108.
From the Summit Station, the Toll Road descends east 0.3 mi. to the Runny Nose spring and 0.5 mi. to a road leading left to the Octagon and the upper station of the Mt. Mansfield quad chairlift. At this road junction, the Haselton Trail bears northeast down the Nose Dive ski trail. At the parking lot across from the junction, the South Link leads west to the Forehead By-Pass. The Toll Road continues east downhill another 4.0 mi. to Vt. 108.
The LT continues north past the Summit Station where the coinciding Lakeview and Canyon Trails leads west to parallel the ridge. The LT crosses the TV Road (0.7 mi.), which leads 200 ft. to the Amherst Trail. Beyond the TV Road, the LT emerges from the stunted spruce and fir trees and onto the rocky ridge of the mountain.
Note: From this point north over the Chin, hikers must take special care to protect the alpine tundra by walking only on the marked trail.
Note: Electrical storms on the exposed ridge of Mt. Mansfield are sudden and severe. Hikers are strongly urged to take shelter on any side trail leading off the ridge during thunderstorms (they are usually brief). To the east, use the Profanity, Cliff, or Amherst Trails; to the west, the Laura Cowles or Halfway House Trails. Fissures and overhanding rocks along the open ridge do not provide adequate shelter from lightining strikes.
The LT passes the Halfway House Trail (0.8 mi., 3,880 ft.), which descends west 2.3 mi. to Underhill State Park, then climbs to Frenchman's Pile, a cairn marking the spot where a traveler was killed by lightning many years ago, and continues north to Drift Rock (1.1 mi.), a large glacial erratic, and the north end of the Amherst Trail, which provides a sheltered route south to the TV Road on the east side of the ridge. The LT ascends the Upper Lip (1.3 mi.), then passes just west of the Lower Lip (1.5 mi.) with its Rock of Terror (a prominent boulder that appears ready to topple down the east side of the ridge), and reaches a junction (1.6 mi.), where the Cliff Trail descends very steeply east 0.4 mi. to the Cave of teh Winds and the Cliff House. To the west at this junction are the Canyon North Extension and the Subway.
Following the ridge north, the LT passes the north end of the Subway and reaches another junction (1.8 mi., 4,260 ft.) in a sedge meadow, where the Sunset Ridge Trail descends west 250 ft. to the more sheltered Laura Cowles Trail and 3.1 mi. to Underhill State Park and the Profanity Trails drops steeply east 0.5 mi. to Taft Lodge and is the recommended bad weather route off the Chin. Straight ahead, ascend to the Chin (2.0 mi., 4,393 ft.), Mt. Mansfield's highest summit. Mt. Mansfield Forehead to Chin, 2.0 mi. (3.2 km), 500 ft., 1 1/4 hr. (rev. 1 hr).
The view from the Chin is dramatic. East of north lie the Sterling Range and Jay Peak. Under very favorable conditions, Montreal's Mt. Royal in Canada is visible to the northwest.
To the east is the Worcester Range. Mt. Washington in New Hampshire is south of east. Right of Mt. Washington lie the Franconia Range and Mt. Moosilauke. To the south, the Green Mountains are visible to Killington Peak. To the west beyond Lake Champlain is lofty pointed Whiteface, which lies north of the dense cluster of Adirondack peaks surrounding Mt. Marcy.
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