Mt. Monadnock via Birchtoft & Spellman (Monadnock State Park)

Mt. Monadnock via Birchtoft & Spellman (Monadnock State Park)

Hike Type: Loop w/ Spurs
Distance: 10.26 miles
Elevation: 2,356 feet
Time: 5 hours, 21 minutes (4 hours, 59 minutes)

Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge; Monadnock Redliner; Rocks that Rock

The Hike

I'm officially back in Massachusetts, summer is winding down, band camp is over, and I'm feeling very ready to get back into regualar hiking, and what better way than to beat the life out of my body on Mt. Monadnock! I wanted to make sure I got the full experience of "getting back into it" so I was up at 4:45am, out the door at 5:05am, and as per tradition, made use of the Winchendon Cumberland Farms about an hour later. I PROUDLY did NOT overeat breakfast this time (even though I REALLY wanted to). Turns out, one sausage egg and cheese breakfast sandwich on a bagel from Cumbies is a perfect breakfast for hiking Monadnock. My tummy still felt weird, but that's just a part of hiking at this point. I made it to the parking lot around 6:45am and took my time getting ready by shattering my Nalgene and cleaning the floor of my car. It was 60-degrees out, cloudy, but the mountain was FINALLY not socked in and I anticipated some nice views! After using the portapotty, realizing I forgot my new shoes, and just enjoying the silence of a Monaday morning, I finally got started.

From the parking lot, there is a sign pointing to the Birchtoft Trail, which leads to another sign and an unsigned trail that actually leads to the trailhead. It took me a second to find the start of the Pond Trail, which I realized was on the opposite side of the small field to the Birchtoft Trail. The first part of the Pond Trail was truly lovely, providing occasional views of Gilson Pond and the mountain, and it crosses a bridge over the pond's dam right where the Ravine Trail branches off.

Turning right, there is a short walk through an overgrown clearing (only 10-15 feet) to the Ravine Trail, which is clearly a seldom used, but absolutely lovely trail that follows the Gilson Pond outflow. There were a few footbridges at the beginning and did get buggy if I stopped moving, but it wasn't too bad. The water was stained dark from the tree tannins, there were some beautiful mushrooms, and the trail eventually terminated at a remote campsite where someone was sleeping (I was trying to be quiet to not alert them). At the terminus, I turned around to retrace my steps.

Back on the pond trail I enjoyed another view of Gilson Pond, and notice the bugs were starting to pick up. And then more. And more. And more until I was nearly running with my arms flailing. Mid-sized flies everywhere landing all over me! I passed a dad and his son and the dad said "ah the deer flies are out!" - much less bothered than I was. At least they weren't biting. This torture continued until just before the terminus at the Birchtoft Trail, where I broke out my new headnet for the first time.

Even though I couldn't feel the flies biting, probably due to adrenaline, I was ITCHY. I kept the headnet on even though there weren't too many bugs on the Birchtoft Trail. That was absolutely brutal - I had never been swarmed by flies like that before. Curious if it was just my luck, if its the season, or if it was just the perfect timing.

The Birchtoft Trail was a welcomed change - relatively easy to moderate with nice old stone walls and the occasional criss-crossing cross-country ski trail. I then turned onto the Hinkley Trail to hike the half I missed last time when I was dehydrated, which was quite lovely. Very gentle, very soft, some nice bridges over streams, and all to myself! Hinkley led to Harling which was also lovely, but started to climb. I also realized I didn't rinse out my new bladder before using it and it tasted ICKY. I realized I had to deal with it, sadly.

The sun began to peep through the trees and illuminated a red eft almost perfectly. I also passed a big pile of berry-filled bear poop while dodging spider webs. I couldn't help but notice that my legs were really feeling the break I took from hiking, but I'd be whipped back into shape soon enough.

At the end of the Harling Trail I turned left to do the walk of shame to get the little bit of the White Dot Trail I was still missing between Cascade Link and White Cross, and then I turned around and followed Cascade Link all the way up to the junction with the infamous Spellman Trail. There were lovely cascades on the Cascade Link Trail, with many many little frogs and daddy long legs.

Then it was time... I made it to the Spellman Trail trailhead. I knew this was the steepest way up Mt. Monadnock, and I'm still emotionally recovering from my jaunt up Middle Sister on the Carter Ledge Trail. The Spellman trail started as a truly beautiful walk in the woods, but quickly got started on a steep scramble up some large rocks, BUT then provided a short walking break over a stream and waterfall.

After this is when the party really got going - the trail steepened and the scrambling began. Thankfully, the scrambling is quickly rewarded with great views, even if they were a little hazy. There were a fine amount of blazes - whenever I wasn't sure where to go next I was able to find a blaze pointing me in the right direction. It was near the top of the scramble that I realized this trail truly wasn't too bad. It was mostly scrambles instead of scary slabs, and that was perfect! The trail mellows out and dips back into the woods near a lovely mossy stream and moderately continues to climb. I would 100% tackle this trail again!

Now I'm back on the Pumpelly Trail for the first time since maybe 2016? I forgot how beautiful it was. I also forgot how LONG it was! The trail itself is absolutely stunning, passing wide, sweeping views, small pools, and gentle meadows with fuzzy grasses. Unfortunately, there is a steep descent followed by a steep ascent before the summit that I was not mentally prepared for.

Soon after the Spellman junction I stumbled upon a rock I forgot I was looking for - the Sarcophagus! Further along, I was disappointed but not surprised to see that I had missed blueberry season, but there were plenty other (likely non-edible) berries everywhere else! The summit was in sight, and my legs were turned to jello. The final push was rough for my unseasoned legs, and the very last bit of the trail was quite unclear and basically became "choose your own adventure." I proudly made it to the summit, booped the USGS marker, and took a nice break.

My return trip started in dramatic agony with my feet protesting every step I took (stretching is important, kids!). From the summit to the Spellman Trail junction was as expected and went fairly quickly, but there was an ascent to "Town Line Peak" (I believe) after that that I was not prepared for and it wiped me out. I started passing more people as the day went on, one of which was an older gentleman who lost his iPhone - sending thoughts and prayers!

After Town Line Peak, the Pumpelly Trail became much more gentle and enjoyable, with fantastic views of Moandnock.

The Cascade Link's upper reaches are basically a continuation of Pumpelly - open slaps and wonderful views, but then it leads to a tricky scramble, then deep mud, but then another open slab with a great view! I noticed I was starting to cramp up (naturally) so I chugged my nasty water and continued on.

The trail opened up again before diving into the woods one last time, where it followed a lovely mossy stream. Once 11:30am hit I started passing even more people (like clockwork) as I made my way back to the Birchtoft Trail for my final descent. I got a few more mosquito bites, but not enough to warrant the head net again. I made my way to the Hinkley junction and I was completely wiped and recently out of water (still in better shape than my last trip around Monadnock!).

I finally arrived to Gilson Pond, delighted to see that the flies were done with me, and SUFFERED in the final uphill from the trailhead to the parking lot. There were only a few other cars that joined me in the parking lot that I originally had to myself. I did my quick change out of my disgustingly wet clothes and started my return trip... to Cumbies! I only have one trail left on Mt. Monadnock - the Dublin Trail!

Step-By-Step

- Park at Gilson Pond Day Use parking area.

- Follow signs for "Birchtoft Trail."

- At remote camping site parking area, enter Pond Trail (blue discs) on right side.

- Follow Pond Trail (blue discs).

- At next jct., turn right after bridge onto Ravine Trail (blue disc/unblazed).

- At Ravine Trail terminus, turn around.

- Back at Pond Trail, turn right and continue loop.

- At terminus, turn sharply right onto Birchtoft Trail (red rectangles).

- At next trail jct. (not XC trails), turn left onto Hinkley Trail (yellow rectangles).

- At next jct., turn right onto Harling Trail (unblazed).

- At terminus, turn left onto Cascade Link (yellow discs).

- At terminus, continue left onto White Dot (white dots).

- At jct. with White Cross, turn around.

- Rejoin Cascade Link (yellow discs).

- At jct., with Spellman Trail, turn left onto Spellman Trail (white rectangles).

- At terminus, turn left onto Pumpelly Trail (sometimes white Ps).

- Summit Mt. Monadnock.

- Return on Pumpelly Trail.

- At jct. with Cascade Link, turn right onto Cascade Link (yellow discs).

- At jct. with Birchtoft Trail, turn left onto Birchtoft Trail (red rectangles).

- Return to car.

“Birchtoft Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This trail, opened in 1966, begins near the state-owned Gipson Pond Area, on Dublin Rd. at the eastern base of Mt. Monadnock, and is marked with red rectangles. In combination with Cascade Link and Red Spot and Pumpelly trails, Birchtoft provides a pleasant less used route up the mountain from the east. A new campground opened at Gilson Pond in 2010.

    From the north, approach the trailhead from NH 101 in Dublin. From the town center, follow NH 101 west 0.3 mi. then turn left (south) onto Upper Jaffrey Rd. at a state park sign. Follow this road (which becomes Dublin Rd.) 3.5 mi. to the Gilson Pond entrance to the right. To approach from the south, follow NH 124 west 2.3 mi. from its junction with NH 137 and US 202 in Jaffrey then turn right (north) onto Dublin Rd. at a sign for Monadnock State Park. Follow Dublin Rd. past the main state park entrance on the left at 1.3 mi. from NH 124 and continue to the Gilson Pond Area on the left at 2.9 mi. Drive to the tollbooth and park in the designated lot beyond on the right. (This parking lot is not plowed in winter; winter parking is available at a lot on the right before the tollbooth).

    From the south end of the summer parking lot, a connecting park (sign for Birchtoft Trail and Pond Loop Trail) descends 125 yd. through the woods to a gravel campground road. Birchtoft Trail begins at a kiosk across the road, at the left edge of a small field, while the north segment of Pond Loop Trail (marked with blue disks) begins at the right edge of the field. Birchtoft Trail descends to Gilson Pond and skirts the east and south shores; 100 yd. beyond the kiosk, side paths lead right to ledges with beautiful views across the pond to Mt. Monadnock. At 0.3 mi. the south segment of Pond Loop Trail diverges right (west).

    (Pond Loop Trail is a path 0.8 mi. long that runs around Gilson Pond, passing several points with views across the pond. On the east side of the dam along the north segment of Pond Loop Trail, 0.2 mi. west of its eastern junction with Birchtoft Trail, lightly used Ravine Trail diverges right. Ravine Trail descends an overgrown bank to a sign, crosses a bridge over the pond’s outlet brook, and follows the brook north through an attractive hemlock ravine. At 0.3 mi. from Pond Loop Trail, Ravine Trail ends at a T junction with a path that leads to remote park campsites.)

    From this junction Birchtoft Trail swings left and ascends easily through several turns, crossing two ski trails. Hinkley Trail enters on the left from Poole Rd. at 1.0 mi. Birchtoft Trail soon begins to climb at moderate grades, crossing another ski trail at 1.2 mi., and continues ascending to Cascade Link, 0.5 mi. north of White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring. For the summit, follow Cascade Link 40 yd. and then continue ahead on Red Spot Trail where Cascade Link turns right.

“Hinkley Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This pleasant, lightly used trail, marked with yellow rectangles, leads from Poole Rd., 0.2 mi. east of the state park headquarters gatehouse entrance, to Birchtoft Trail, 0.9 mi. west of the Gilson Pond trailhead. Its northern section was recently extended to provide loop hike possibilities from the new campground at Gilson Pond. The trail sign is set back from the road, although a yellow blaze is visible. Because there is no parking at the start of the trail, hikers should leave their vehicles in the main lot in the state park and walk 0.2 mi. back down Poole Rd. Once found, Hinkley Trail is easy to follow. From Poole Rd. it leads north at easy grades with minor ups and downs. At about 0.4 mi., it approaches small, attractive Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook) on the right and follows the water, climbing gradually and swinging left to the junction with Harling Trail, which diverges on a woods road to the left at 0.6 mi. Here, Hinkley Trail turns right onto the woods road, crosses the brook on a culvert, and in 10 yd. turns left off the road. After another 50 yd., a ski trail diverges left at XC junction #18. Hinkley Trail descends gradually, crosses bridges over two small brooks, and ascends to meet Birchtoft Trail.

“Harling Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

Lightly used, unblazed Harling Trail connects Hinkley Trail, 0.6 mi. north of Poole Rd., with Cascade Link 0.1 mi. north of its junction with White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring. Harling Trail was opened in 1914 by E.J. Harling, the second fire warden on the summit. 

From Hinkley Trail, Harling Trail ascends gradually west on an old woods road, passing junctions with two ski trails on the left and then another on the right at 0.3 mi. It soon reaches another junction with a ski trail on the left (sign: “XC 14”). Here, Harling Trail turns right and in 20 yd. turns left and begins climbing steadily. The trail swings left as it reaches Cascade Link; from here, follow Cascade Link right for Red Spot, Spellman, and Pumpelly Trails, or left for White Dot Trail and Falcon Spring.

“Cascade Link” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This trail, cut in 1921 by AMC’s Worcester Chapter, runs between White Dot Trail near Falcon Spring and Pumpelly Trail, angling upward, south to north. Combined with Pumpelly Trail, it forms an interesting descent route from the summit to the State Park headquarters. When adding either Spellman or Red Spot Trail, it offers the most varied ascents from the east side of the mountain.

    Cascade Link, marked with yellow disks, starts at White Dot Trail, just above the short side loop to Falcon Spring. It runs northeast, descends slightly, and rises to the junction with Harling Trail on the right at 0.1 mi. Then Cascade Link swings left and rises gentle, but on rocky terrain, through hardwood forest. It passes a side path that leads 30 yd. right to a small cascade on Ark Brook (also known as Poole Brook), and at 0.3 mi. it crosses this mossy brook before climbing gradually over ledges in thick woods. At 0.5 mi. Cascade Link turns left at Birchtoft Trail enters on the right. In another 40 yd., Cascade Link turns right as Red Spot Trail continues ahead Pumpelly Ridge and Pumpelly Trail. Immediately after the right turn, Cascade Link crosses an old east-west stone wall then climbs moderately over ledges in spruce woods. At 0.7 mi., steep Spellman Trail leaves left, and Cascade Link climbs along the east bank of a small brook to a spot where the brook rises, close to the boundary between Dublin and Jaffrey. From there, prominent cairns mark Cascade Link over open ledges. Near the top of the ledges, the route passes a rock formation (somewhat obscured by trees) on the left known as the Imp, which resembles a human profile. Cascade Link then arrives at a saddle on Pumpelly Ridge before ending at Pumpelly Trail. (Pumpelly Trail is a scenic route to the summit with many outlooks and is marked with cairns.)

“Spellman Trail” from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This trail leaves Cascade Link 0.7 mi. from White Dot Trail and in its middle section makes the steepest climb on the mountain, leading up Pumpelly Trail just north of the rectangular boulder known as the Sarcophagus. (Caution: Spellman Trail is best used for ascend rather than descent and should be avoided in wet or icy conditions.)

    Spellman Trail starts out at an easy grade and soon swings left before a short, steep pitch. From there, it runs across a cliff top across a small brook then swings right and eases again briefly. It then ascends very steeply over boulders and ledges that require a fair amount of scrambling and emerges in the open with excellent views back to the east, including the skyline of Boston on a clear day. White rectangles mark the route on the rocks, requiring some care to follow. At the top of the upper steep scramble the grade eases, and then path enters spruce woods and climbs at a moderate grade to Pumpelly Trail, where there are trail signs and trail names painted on the ledges.

“Pumpelly Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)

This it the longest and most strenuous direct route to the summit of Mt. Monadnock, but the upper half is very scenic. It was laid out in 1884 by Raphael Pumpelly, a professor, geologist, archaeologist, adventurer, and summer resident of Dublin. […].

    […]. At 3.0 mi. Cascade Link enters on the left, ascending the Monadnock State Park Headquarters trail network on the eastern slopes. Stay on Pumpelly Trail to pass near the bare top of Town Line Peak (2,884 ft.; near the boundary of Dublin and Jaffrey) and descend to a junction at 3.7 mi., where steep Spellman Trail meets Pumpelly Trail on the left. Just beyond this point, the trail climbs past the Sarcophagus, a huge rectangular boulder on the right. From here the trail, marked by large cairns, runs mostly on open ledge, where many glacial striations are plainly visible. It soon passes a small alpine meadow and at 4.0 mi. reaches a junction with Red Spot Trail on the left (large cairn and sign). (Red Spot Trail connects Pumpelly Trail with Cascade Link on the lower east slope of the mountain.) Pumpelly Trail drops into a little gap with steep, ledgy walls then climbs out and comes completely into the open. It now takes a winding route over steep ledges to the summit at 4.4 mi., passing several small alpine pools; follow the cairns carefully in this section.

    Descending, the trail runs nearly due east; look for a ledge with “Pumpelly Trail” and a large white arrow painted on it. A few cairns lie along the first 200 yd., and hikers must take care to locate the first one. Many of the cairns are rather small, and this trail could be difficult to follow down from the summit in the fog.

Map of Monadnock State Park

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