Big Deer Mountain (Groton State Forest)
New Discovery State Park
Distance: 3.50 miles
Elevation: 545 feet
Time: 1 hour, 24 minutes
Elevation: 545 feet
Time: 1 hour, 24 minutes
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Hiking Challenges: Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge
The Hike
There was a 30-ish minute drive between Devil's Hill and Big Deer Mountain trailheads, and most of it was on bumpy, scenic, but rough dirt roads. I pulled up to the ranger station to 1) make sure I was in the right place and 2) pay my $5 day-use fee, and the ranger I talked to was just lovely. She assured me I was in the correct spot, gave me a hiking map and driving map of the New Discovery State Park area, and then she told me about how part of the trail was through a logged area from a few years ago and the loggers left 10ish trees half-cut standing tall, and the ranger insisted that the park should carve animals into the trees. I continued my drive through the camping area to "site 45 - just pretend you're camping there when you park" (this was an actual campsite - there was no "official" trailhead parking), verbally fought a red squirrel, and got my second hike started!
The Big Deer Mountain trail starts on an open logging road with a good a mount of horse poop that paralleled the logged area. The trail turns right, hiking through the logged area, which was pretty grown-in at this point and bit claustrophobic to get through. I saw the trees the ranger was talking about, and I firmly agree with her that animals should be carved into them (which would comically confuse anyone who isn't in the "know").
Once in the woods, the trail briefly descends into the land of 1,000 crazy squirrels. The forest was generally young with excellent fungi all around. Clouds were rolling over which added shade to the grene tunnel I was hiking through, and at 0.69 miles I passed a sign showing that the forest was last harvested in 1996.
I passed truly the greenest catepillar I've ever seen and then passed a collapsed shelter at 1.0 miles. I wonder when it collapsed and why it was left? I couldn't find any info on it online or the NEK Mountain Trail Guide.
The trail continued to roll up and down gently, with a more steady uphill as it approached the trail junction toward Osmore Lake, where I could hear a Loon singing its classic tune.
The trail quickly gets more steep and rugged following the trail junction, and I nearly passed away after spooking a group of 4-5 grouse, which I simply did not enjoy. There is a herd path on the left that leads to a great view of neighboring hills in the foreground and the Whites in the background (specifically, Lafayette/Franconia Ridge with Canon in front and Moosilauke).
The main trail continues on past a magnificent erratic to a view at the terminus of the vast forest. I stayed just for a few photos as the sun was beginning to set, and turned around for my quick return trip.
The return was quick and easy (no more grouses), and my brain more or less turned off until I was back on the other side of the logged area where I found blackberries! I had at least 20 (I love a free snack) and eventually forced myself to stop looking around and get back to my car.
As I was packing up I was surrounded with the lovely smells of campfires, the ridiculous sounds of red squirrels, and I was appreciative of how alone I was on this hike. My drive to Emma's was long, but beautiful, with a magnificent golden light on the trees. Hike #2 of the weekend and #17 of the Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge = Complete!
- Park at camp site #45.
- Pass gate at trailhead.
- At signed junction, turn off of logging road and continue on Big Deer Mountain Trail.
- At next junction, stay right to continue on Big Deer Mountain Trail.
- Just before summit, along ridge, turn left on herd path to view.
- Retrace steps and turn left back onto Big Deer Mountain Trail.
- Trail terminates at great view.
- Retrace steps back to car.
"Welcome to Groton State Forest" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide
At more than 26,000 acres, Groton State Forest is the second largest contiguous land holding of the State of Vermont. This scenic and rugged area is known for its developed and dispersed recreation opportunities. Though only a half-hour drive from Barre, Montpelier, or St. Johnsbury, Groton State Forest retains a sense of wildness and supports a variety of wildlife, including black bear, moose, deer, grouse, mink, beaver, otter, fisher, loons, and herons. A variety of fish are found in the clear ponds and streams.
A year-round trail system connects most major points of interest. Peacham Bog Natural Area (748 acres) contains one of the larget bogs in Vermont, and is home to some interesting and unusual plants and animals. The summit of Owls Head Mountain, accessible by trail, or seasonal road that leads almost ot the top, offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area.
The exposed bedrock found on mountain peaks here is granite, similar to that found in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The striations in this granite, and the boulders found throughout the forest, are evidence of glacial activity that occured more than 10,000 years ago. The glaciers scattered and scraped the landscape irregularly, leaving a rough topography with generally poor drainage.
The forest's cultural history is primarily one of intensive logging, beginning in 1873 with the opening of the Montpelier and Wells River Railroad that ran through the forest. By the mid 1920's most of the timber was cut, leading to the decline the railroad. Several forest fires, especially a severe one in 1903, changed the landscape from spruce, fir and pine to red maple and yellow nad white birch common today. The Civilian Conservation Corps, encamped near Osmore Pond in the 1930's, reforested some areas with plantations of pine and spruce. Today, Groton State Forest is being managed for multiple uses by the Department of Forests, Parks, and Recreation to provide sustainable recreation, wildlife, water, and wood products.
"New Discovery State Park" from New Discovery State Park Map & Guide
Welcome to New Discovery State Park. As easly as 1704, Native Americans and the French were using routes through Groton to reach Canada and Massachusetts. Colonists settled this area of Vermont slightly earlier than the rest of the state through the accessible networks of waterways.
The rocky, tree covered hillsides were originally cloaked wtih white pine, spruce, hemlock, beech, maple, and birch. These were logged by local farmers for lumber, fuel and potash. The logging industry was large-scale for almost 100 years while the railroad was operating. Today, logging is still a vital industry in teh area, but has lost some of its dominance in favor of modern society's leisure time movement - private cottages/seasonal homes and a variety of outdoor recreation activities.
Groton State Forest, with over 27,000 acreas, is the second largest landholding administered by the Department of Forest, Parks, and Recreation. It has over 17 miles of hiking trails and over 20 miles of gravel roads and multi-use trails suitable for mountain biking and horeseback riding.
"Big Deer Mt. Trail from New Discovery State Park" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide
This trail passes through the forest and climbs to scenic vistas. From New Discovery Loop B, turn left onto the road to Peacham Pond. After 0.3 miles, the trail leaves the road in a red pine plantation. The trail is fairly level for most of its distance, but climbs steeply from the trail junction (1.1 miles) to ridgetop. Views include Peacham Pond, Peacham Bog and the White Mts.
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