Cedar Swamp, Penobscot, North Bubble, South Bubble, and Pemetic Mountains (Acadia National Park)
Distance: 9.4 miles
Elevation: 2753 feet
Time: 6 hours, 18 minutes
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents; Wicked Wild 25; Summit Beer Society (x2)
Last hike of my trip! I flirted with doing a small sunrise hike on my last morning, but once I got in bed I quickly decided against that. I have been especially excited for this one partially for the distance, partially for the views, but mostly because of the anticipated challenge:reward ratio. I knew these mountains were going to deliver some incredible views, and I knew I was going to have to work for them. The day started with another 4:00am wakeup, and I arrived at the Jordan Pond parking lot just after sunrise. I did my favorite morning task - used the composting toilet, suited up, made nods at the other few people in the parking lot at 5:00am, and got to hiking!
There is a short path from the parking lot that links up with the Jordan Pond Path. There are views right away of Jordan Pond, Penobscot Mountain, and the Bubbles. There were a few groups of people also on the Jordan Pond Path, but nothing compared to what I'd see later in the day. After walking past the Jordan Pond House and the dam, I joined the carriage road at marker #17, following signs for Amphitheater/Around Mtn. This was the longest stretch of the hike, about two miles of gentle walking along the carriage road. There are a few brief views along the road and I saw a lovely deer near the Amphitheater. At the Amphitheater bridge, which is apparently the longest in Acadia, there is a spur path down to the Amphitheater Trail.
The Amphitheater Trail goes under the grandiose bridge and follows Harbor Brook, which was gently flowing on this day. The climb from here is steep and rocky but eventually opens up to some nice partial views of the area between the mountains, which I think is technically the amphitheater. After passing more views, the trail dips down to the Birch Spring before a short, steep scramble up to Cedar Swamp Mountain on the Sargent South Ridge Trail. At the top of the scramble, I saw a person for the first time since Jordan Pond, and he said he was thrilled to see me because he had just lost the trail - I was happy to help! From there, there is a short spur path to the summit of Cedar Swamp Mountain that offered magnificent views in all directions. I took my sit, snack, and first summit drink of the day before taking a billion more photos.
I backtracked to the Birch Spring and then continued my journey on the Sargent South Ridge Trail, which rewarded nearly every section of climbing with a great view. The next trail junction is with the Penobscot Mountain Trail that leads to Sargent Pond and then the summit of Penobscot Mountain. The pond was still and remote and had the song of a dozen bullfrogs. At the junction with Deer Brook Trail, the Penobscot Mountain Trail climbs right up to the summit of Penobscot Mountain which was just a magical peak. Bare rock face with views in all directions. A huge highlight for me was seeing my next three mountains from the summit: South Bubble, North Bubble, and Pemetic.
I had originally planned to backtrack and take the Deer Brook Trail all the way down, but I saw another hiker take the Penobscot East Trail down which looked gorgeous so I did the same - it was an excellent choice. The trail descends on the ledges facing Jordan Pond offering one view after another. There are a few comically steep scrambles that I had to toss my poles down for, but the trail quickly calmed down after that. The Penobscot East Trail terminates at the Jordan Cliffs Trail - the section that is not closed for the nesting falcons. There were trail crews doing some maintenance on blowdowns on this section, but I was able to get by without bothering them and they were incredibly nice. I then took the Deer Brook Trail to complete the descent. The Deer Brook Trail crosses a carriage road and goes below a gorgeous bridge before terminating back at the Jordan Pond Path.
The Jordan Pond Path crosses the north shore of Jordan Pond, and there were plenty of people around. There was a beautiful family of mergansers (ducks with spiky hair was the name I gave them) swimming about. I snapped a few pictures before leaving the crowds and hiking the Bubbles Divide Trail, which was entirely made up of large rocks, which quickly got my heart rate back up. I saw no one on the Bubbles Divide between Jordan Pond Path and Bubbles Trail, but immediately found the entire population on the Bubbles Trail. South Bubble was up first, which had an easy trail to the top, but many, many people. The summit sign was currently being replaced by a trail crew, so I hiked to the view point and then doubled back. The North Bubble side of the Bubbles Trail wasn't too far away, and this was a steeper, more rugged climb to the top. Like most climbs in the park, it wasn't a long climb. The summit area was more secluded, but still full of people. I wandered to an area off trail where I had some more privacy to sit and snack (and wring out my shirt). The hike back down the Bubbles Trail and Bubbles Divide to the parking area off of Park Loop Road felt like swimming up stream with all the people, but I was quickly back to myself once I crossed the road to the Pemetic Northwest Trail.
The Pemetic Northwest Trail is on the Wicked Wild 25 list, and while I didn't fear for my life, I would not want to come down this trail (even though I passed a few people who did). This trail was roughly split into three sections: rocks, ravine/ledge, and final push. The first section was similar to the Jordan Pond side of the Bubbles Divide - just large rocks in every direction. There was one tricky scramble where a wooden railing was installed. After, there is a unique split in the trail. One section heads into a ravile and one up ledges, both parallel each other. It seemed like the ravine side was less used, and would be best in rain when it's already wet (I guess?). The ledges side is what I took, and was true to its word. Steep ledge. STEEP ledge! Again, thrilled I was not going down this area. The final push was at a more moderate grade and soon opened up to some great views, and eventually the breathtaking summit area.
I spent a nice long break at the summit. I could have taken a billion photos (as per usual) - it was so beautiful. I had my ham and cheese wrap, lots of electrolytes, a nice vodka mule, and a long sit. There were a few others enjoying the view, but I was able to find a spot just off trail (that of course, did not disturb the fragile vegetation). At this point, I was SO glad that I decided to do Day Mountain and the Triad the day before, because while I was in awe, I was also ready to be done. The Pemetic South Ridge Trail was just gorgeous, and it slowly dipped down to intersect with the Bubble & Jordan Ponds Path, which was my final leg for the day. The trail continued to easily descend, and I passed another trail worker carrying massive pieces of wood up trail. The path crossed Park Loop Road one more time, and then I was back at the Jordan Pond Path! The pond views are excellent, but the literal hundreds of people made it less enjoyable. I was back at the car before I knew it, and the other cars were like vultures waiting for me, which was very annoying. A nice southernly gentleman commented on the Hot Pockets that I left on my dash board in hopes I'd have a warm snack at the end, and I guess it worked? They were fully heated, but very soggy. Also not sure if it was legally safe to eat, but it tasted good!
I spent the rest of the day at the motel watching TV and just relaxing - it was lovely. I had a classic Circle-K dinner, and decided to take it easy and just go for a walk around Bar Harbor on my last morning. I was excited to put a bow on this trip, I was incredibly proud of myself for achieving my goal, and I was ready to be back in my own bed.
- Park at Jordan Pond.
- Follow walking path to Jordan Pond Path, turn left on Jordan Pond Path.
- At Carriage Road marker #14, follow sign for Ampitheater on Carriage Road.
- At Carriage Road marker #21, follow sign for Around Mt.
- At Ampitheater Bridge, cross bridge, descend to stream, turn left onto Ampitheater Trail (hike under bridge).
- Follow Ampitheater Trail to jct. with Sargent South Ridge Trail/Hadlock Brook Trail, turn left onto Sargent South Ridge Trail towards Cedar Swamp Mountain.
- At next junction, follow unnamed trail to Cedar Swamp Mountain Summit.
- Return to Ampitheater/Sar. S. Ridge Trail/Hadlock Brook junction, continue on Sargent South Ridge Trail.
- At junction with Penobscot Mountain Trail, turn right onto Penobscot Mountain Trail towards Sargent Mountain Pond.
- At junction with Deer Brook Trail, continue on Penobscot Mountain Trail towards Penobscot Mountain Summit.
- At Summit, descend towards Jordan Pond on Penobscot East Trail.
- At terminus, continue left on Jodan Cliffs Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Deer Brook Trail.
- Cross Carriage Road and hike Deer Brook Trail to terminus.
- At terminus, turn left onto Jordan Pond Path.
- Cross footbridge, turn left onto Bubbles Divide.
- At next junction, turn right onto Bubble Trail toward South Bubble, summit, and return.
- At next junction, turn left onto Bubble Trail towards North Bubble, summit, and return.
- Continue on Bubbles Divide to parking area.
- Cross Park Loop Road and enter Pemetic North West Trail.
- At Ravine/Ledge split, stay right for ledges.
- Continue on Pemetic North West Trail.
- At terminus, follow Pementic North Ridge Trail toward Pementic Mountain Summit.
- Continue on Pemetic South Ridge Trail until terminus.
- At terminus, turn right onto Bubble & Jordan Ponds Path.
- Cross Park Loop Road, continue on Bubble & Jordan Ponds Path.
- Turn left onto Jordan Pond Path, continue back to parking lot.
Trail Descriptions from Maine Mountain Guide
Jordan Pond
"The Jordan Pond area is a central starting point for many good hiking trails, ranging from Pemetic Mtn. to the east, around Jordan Pond to the Bubbles in the north, and to Penobscot Mtn. and Sargent Mtn. to the west. Jordan Pond, its deep, sparkling waters considered some of the cleanest in Maine, is also known for its fine dining and scenic view of the Bubbles and Penobscot Mtn., Jordan Pond House has been serving ANP visitors since 1871. Hiker parking is discouraged here due to congestion during the busy summer months. A large trailhead parking lot with a toilet is on Park Loop Rd., just 0.1 north of Jordan Pond House or 7.7 mi. south of Hulls Cove Visitor Center. The Island Explorer bus is another good option for reaching trails in this busy area of the park."
Amphitheater Trail
"This trail connects Hadlock Brook Trail to Sargent South Ridge Trail high on Cedar Swamp Mtn. The start of Amphitheater Trail is 1.1 mi. west of Jordan Pond House, via a short walk on a carriage road from Asticou & Jordan Pond Path."
"From Asticou & Jordan Pond Path, walk north on the carriage road, which quickly crosses Penobscot Mtn. Trail. Continue on the carriage road, paralleling Harbor Brook. In 0.3 mi., cross Harbor Brook Bridge; Amphitheater Trail begins on the right immediately after the bridge."
"Amphitheater Trail traces a route along Harbor Brook, crossing it numerous times before and after passing under Amphitheater Bridge (the largest carriage road bridge in the park) at 0.7 mi. Beyond the bridge, the trail climbs more steeply through an area known as the Amphitheater to Birch Spring and the jct. with Sargent South Ridge Trail at 1.3 mi. To the left, it is 0.1 mi. to the top of Cedar Swamp Mtn.; to the right, it is 1.1 mi. to the summit of Sargent Mtn. Ahead, Amphitheater Trail descends to end at Hadlock Brook Trail at 1.7 mi."
Cedar Swamp Mountain
"This scenic peak, the southernmost of a jumble of six mountains west of Jordan Pond, is just west of Penobscot Mtn. and features a long south ridge that divides the large and remote ravine known as the Amphitheater from the Upper and Lower Hadlock ponds. The Amphitheater and Sargent South Ridge trails cross near the Cedar Swamp summit."
Sargent South Ridge Trail (Excerpt)
"[...]. Beyond, the trail rises over a wooded shoulder, breaks out of the trees, and passes just southeast of the summit of Cedar Swamp Mountain at 1.3 mi. (a short spur leads left to the summit). Just ahead, the trail drops to cross Amphitheater Trail at Birch Spring. Sargent South Ridge Trail then leaves the woods and rises sharply to another jct. at 1.9 mi. Here, Penobscot Mtn. Trail enters from the right. [...]."
Penobscot Mountain Trail (Excerpt)
"[...]. Penobscot Mtn. Trail then climbs gradually over open granite ledges to the summit, where the East Trail enters. Beyond, Penobscot Mtn. Trail continues north, descending to a rugged notch and the jct. with Deer Brook Trail. Penobscot Mtn. Trail turns left here and soon reaches pretty Sargent Mtn. Pond. From the pond, the trail makes a short climb to join the Sargent South Ridge Trail (leads 1.2 mi. right [north] to the top of Sargent Mtn.)."
Penobscot Mountain
"This mountain, the fifth highest in ANP, rises steeply west of Jordan Pond. The long and high Jordan Ridge atop the sweeping face of Jordan Cliffs offers commanding panoramic views in every direction. Sandwiched between ME 3/198 and Jordan Pond, the two major trailheads, Penobscot Mtn. is part of a compact group of six peaks that are home to an intricate network of trails allowing for many fun and interesting hike combinations."
Deer Brook Trail
"Deer Brook Trail starts from Jordan Pond Path at the north end of Jordan Pond. The trail can be accessed by hiking either east or west around the pond via Jordan Pond Path from Jordan Pond House, or by climbing over the Bubbles on Bubbles Divide Trail from the Bubble Rock parking area on Park Loop Rd. Deer Brook Trail provides good access to the summits of Penobscot Mtn. and Sargent Mtn."
"From Jordan Pond, Deer Brook Trail climbs rock steps along Deer Brook, crossing it several times below the double-arched Deer Brook bridge. Cross the carriage road, then climb wooden staircases and rock steps alongside Deer Brook to reach a trail jct. Here, Jordan Cliffs Trail departs left, and Sargent East Cliffs Trail leaves to the right. Ahead on Deer Brook Trail, ascend the narrow valley, crossing the brook several more times before bearing away from it. Above a set of rock steps, the angle eases and in a notch ahead, reach the end of the trail at the jct. with Penobscot Mtn. Trail. Sargent Mtn. Pond is just a 5-min walk ahead; the open summit of Penobscot Mtn. is 0.1 mi. left."
Jordan Pond Path
"[...]. Winding along the northeast shore at the base of South Bubble, reach the jct. with Bubbles Divide Trail at 1.7 mi. This trail climbs to Bubbles Gap, a high notch between North Bubble and South Bubble. Beyond, Jordan Pond Path crosses a picturesque footbridge over an inlet to reach the jct. with Deer Brook Trail, which leads to trails on Penobscot and Sargent Mtn."
Bubbles Divide
"Bubbles Divide Trail bisects South and North Bubble on its route west to Jordan pond. The trail offers the shortest route to the summit of either mountain. From its start, the trail drops a short distance across Jordan Pond Carry, which connects Jordan Pond with Eagle Lake. Beyond, the wide and well-used trail climbs toward the small notch between the Bubbles. Here, the northern section of Bubbles Trail leaves to the right (leads 0.3 mi. to North Bubble). Follow the southern section of Bubbles Trail in the notch proper; from this point, it climbs 0.3 mi. to the top of South Bubble and a short spur leading out to Bubble Rock."
"Continuing west, Bubbles Divide Trail descends, on steep, rocky trail at times, to the north shore of Jordan Pond, ending at the jct. with Jordan Pond Path. To the left, it is 0.9 mi. back to the Bubble Rock parking area via Jordan Pond Path and Jordan Pond Carry."
Bubbles Trail
"This trail connects the north shore of Jordan Pond with Eagle Lake, taking the high route and climbing over the Bubbles and Conners Nubble en route. It leaves from Jordan Pond Path at a point 0.5 mi. from Bubble Rock parking area on Park Loop Rd. via Bubbles Divide Trail and Jordan Pond Carry.
[...]. It levels off just before reaching the summit of South Bubble at 0.4 mi. Here, the views of Jordan Pond and beyond from the wide, open ledges below the summit are spectacular. At the tummit, a short spur trail leads right to Bubble Rock, the large and unmistakable glacial erratic perched on the edge of the cliff face.
From the summit of South Bubble, the trail descends moderately over ledges to a notch, then turns right, traveling with Bubbles Divide Trail for a short distance before turning left and making a steep climb to the summit of North Bubble. Bubbles Trail then continues north past the summit, descending at an easy pace over open ridgeline for a distance."
North & South Bubble
"The finely shaped, almost symmetrical North Bubble and South Bubble rise above the north end of Jordan Pond. Formerly covered with heavy tree growth, they were swept by fire in 1947, leaving many open views. The 110-ton glacial erratic precariously perched atop the east face of South Bubble is Bubble Rock, one of the park's most recognized natural features. The best access is from the Bubble Rock parking area on the west side of Park Loop Rd., 1.1 mi. south of Bubble Pond at 6.2 mi. south of Hulls Cove Visitor Center."
Pemetic Northwest Trail
"This trail begins at the Bubble Rock parking area on the west side of Park Loop Rd., 6.2 mi. south of Hulls Cove Visitor Center. It enters the woods east of the road and climbs through thick forest cover. Sometimes following a rocky streambed, the trail ends at a jct. with Pemetic North Ridge Trail north of the summit."
Pemetic Mountain North Ridge Trail
"[...]. From there, the trail climbs steadily through the forest to a jct. with Pemetic Northwest Trail high on the mountain at 1.1 mi. Pemetic North Ridge Trail reaches the summit of Pemetic Mtn. and the jct. with Pemetic South Ridge Trail at 1.2 mi. The summit offers excellent views of the Triad, Cadillac Mtn., Jordan Pond, Penobscot Mtn., and Sargent Mtn."
Pemetic Mountain
"This mountain, the fourth-highest in ANP, is located roughly in the center of the eastern half of Mt. Desert Island. Its long ridgeline offers some of the best panoramic views in ANP. Trails up the west side are short and relatively steep, whereas routes from the north and south are more gradual and wooded."
"For the trails from the south, park at the Jordan Pond trailhead parking area; from the north, park at Bubble Pond; and from the west, park at Bubble Rock. Gain access to all parking areas via Park Loop Rd. Summer crowds tend to fill these lots quickly, so plan to arrive early or ride the Island Explorer bus."
Pemetic South Ridge Trail
"This trail climbs to the summit of Pemetic Mtn. via the south ridge. The trail begins at Bubble & Jordan Ponds Path, 0.4 mi. east of its jct. with Jordan Pond Path and 0.8 mi. east of the Jordan Pond trailhead parking area. Pemetic South Ridge Trail climbs steadily to a jct. at 0.6 mi. with Pemetic East Cliff Trail, which enters from the right. Continuing straight ahead, it climbs over open ledges with spectacular views to reach the summit and the jct. with Pemetic North Ridge Trail at 1.3 mi."