Distance: 18.13 miles
Elevation: 3205 feet
Time: 11 hours, 40 minutes
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 48 4000-Footers, 52 Hike Challenge
Gen and I finally had a mutually free weekend with decent weather to tackle a 4k, and with the rumored closing of Lincoln Woods next year we decided it was time to bite the bullet and hit up Owl's Head. We've both heard plenty about this hike and remote, lackluster peak, but it had to get done sometime! Our day started with a 1:55am wake-up, we parked-and-rided at 2:30am, and then started our drive up to the whites, arriving at Lincoln Woods just after 5:00am, very much in the dark. It was 38 degrees and there was a light excitement in the air as at least 10 other hiking parties were getting set up for their days, some going to Flume via Osceola, some heading up to Bondcliff, some going deep into the Pemigewasset Wilderness with full packs, and others going on a questionable journey to Owl's Head. We made use of the beautiful bathrooms, actually had five whole dollars to pay the day-use fee (we're notoriously terrible at this), and started our day with headlamps on right at 5:30am. We also appreciated how we have never seen Lincoln Woods in daylight before... "appreciated."
The Lincoln Woods trail was exactly as we left it a year ago (exactly a year ago, Snapchat would remind me!) after hiking out of Bondcliff - flat and featureless. It was very calm and chilly this morning, with headlamps a few hundred ahead and behind us. Light slowly started to appear through the trees, and we saw some faint but beautiful colors at the Hurricane Irene washout 0.7 miles in. Further down there was another view with a little more light now looking towards the Bonds - really beautiful. We played leapfrog with a few hikers as we each took time to enjoy the peaceful views as the woods woke up around us.
There is a bridge that is out 1.8 miles in which requires a small rock hop which was easy peasy, and then we passed the trailhead for Black Pond, which has the popular bushwhack to avoid the large water crossings, but we decided to not tempt fate and continue on the marked trails (which was certainly a choice). As we approached the Franconia Falls Trail and the bridge over Franconia Brook there is a series of two signs 200ft. apart saying "How many paces is 200 feet? Start here." (My answer was 77). Then we hit the real pinnacle of the Lincoln Woods Trail - the bridge over Franconia Brook. There is a great view upstream toward Mt. Flume, and the sun was hitting the peak just as we crossed the bridge, illuminating the beautiful early fall yellows. We took a short break after the bridge to remove some layers and get ready to explore some new territory. We officially entered the Pemigewasset Wilderness and turned onto the Franconia Brook trail.
The Franconia Brook Trail is more or less an extension of Lincoln Woods with a few more interesting features, but overall very gentle along old railroad beds (Gen asked if there was a patch for trails that used to be railroads - honestly sounds kind of cool). We were very alone on this stretch, only passing one backpacker heading towards Lincoln Woods. There were a few ponds/bogs/swamps (I never know the difference or which is which), and one had a really beautiful view of Owl's Head in the distance. This trail also crossed the Camp 9 brook not once, not twice, but three times! All the crossings were decently easy - I only got splashed once. It was here where Gen broke out her gummy bears too, which was incredibly vital to our success. At this point, we really felt like we were cruising. Lincoln Woods went super quickly since miles in the dark do not count, and the 1.7 miles of Franconia Brook Trail also flew by with the different features and crossings breaking up the longer stretches.
Then... the fun began! There is a large junction where the Lincoln Brook Trail begins, turning left off of the Franconia Brook Trail. The trail initially stuck to the status quo of nice and easy, and then we started to hear the sound of running water, and THEN we were staring at the daunting Franconia Brook. We debated what to do - barefoot, socks, or shoes - do we cross where the trail is or walk around to find somewhere better - do we turn around?! We eventually decided to keep boots on and ford the river, pretty much connecting the dots between the trail on either side. This water was cold, moving quickly, and the rocks were slick. I think we made the right choice keeping shoes on, because I fear I would have easily broken my toes without them. Toward the end of the crossing, the water got mid-thigh deep and definitely had me feeling nervous, but I made it to the other side in one piece. Gen froze up at that spot and it was really nerve wracking to watch, but she pushed on and we both made it out physically unscathed, quite wet, and slightly emotionally damaged. We took a moment to regroup, I wrung out my socks, Gen had previously tightened her waterproof boots to see if she should prevent water from getting in (nope), so she loosened her boots back and dumped out the water, and we continued on our journey!
I knew from reading the guidebooks that the Lincoln Brook crossing that was soon coming up would also be difficult, but not as bad as Franconia Brook. We leap-frogged with a group of four hikers for the second time and hiked through the truly beautiful woods to our next crossing. Lincoln Brook was still a serious crossing, but felt like a walk in a very wet park compared to what we had just done. Only got knee deep, which was more than welcome at this point. The trail then parallels the Lincoln Brook for a while and is incredibly wet, but we truly did not care at this point since we were already soaked. With the wetness, the trail was very scenic, and I imagine in a few days it'll be beautiful with peak foliage. The Lincoln Brook is very loud for most of it, which creates a really beautiful ambiance. We passed a few more backpackers on their way out of the woods, and did another round of leap frog with some other hikers. Through the trees on the left the silhouette of Owl's Head seemed to be taunting us as we circled around the base.
The back half of the Lincoln Brook Trail starts with what I dubbed the "roller coaster" - a series of small ups and downs through some muddy terrain, and then there are two more water crossings. The Liberty Brook was an easy crossing that we probably could have rock hopped if we tried and searched, but we didn't care any more. Same with the final crossing of the Lincoln Brook (it was here that Gen discovered if she squishes her feet into a rock, water will wring out). We did see one fabulous dog do a rock hop better than any human could! The trail between the two brooks and after the final crossing was pure wet mud, but soon enough we finally found a bunch of hikers hanging out at the base of the Owl's Head Trail, marked by two small cairns (which are apparently illegal as they're marking an unofficial path in a wilderness area - I appreciated them regardless).
Now the fun was really beginning! The Owl's Head path gets right to the point - starting with a rocky incline and then opens up at the base of the slide where it is 90% loose rock and gravel, making for a very interesting climb - kind of like going for a walk on the beach, but the beach is straight uphill. The vertical beach then turns a bit more ledgy, which was daunting to look at but pretty easy to get around. This part of the climb was rewarded with magnificent views of the backside of Franconia Ridge - with Flume all the way on the left, then Liberty, Little Haystack, Lincoln, and finally Lafayette on the right. When looking closely, we could even make out very, very tiny people up on the ridge. That, paired with the early foliage almost made this schlep worth it!
After the ledges the path dips back into the woods and climbs up a comically wet section of rocks and roots - on this day water was actively flowing down the path - that looked sketchier than it was. Footing was good beside fearing for my life. The trail finally begins to calm (key word: begins, it does not get calm for a while) at a large boulder that also serves as the beginning of the brutus bushwhack. The trail continues to climb and enters a beautiful section of moss-covered woods and finally begins to level out to a more reasonable grade. We ended up passing more people on this stretch of trail than we had seen all day! All very friendly, and we were all clearly commiserating with one another. It actually made for a fun, silly sense of community.
Eventually, the trail officially hits the ridge of Owl's Head Mountain and life is good again. The path winds across the ridge with the occasional muddy section. There was one side path on the right that led to a partial view of Bondcliff that was beautiful, and further down the trail there was a very obstructed view of Lafayette through some dead trees. Finally, we knew we made it to the summit when we heard "WOOOO!" by a group of hikers who were hanging out at the summit which made both Gen and I chuckle. We were then offered some wine, and one hiker pulled a full bottle of red out of her bag - it was truly excellent.
We chatted with our new friends for a few minutes before starting our return trip. We played leap frog with them a few times as each of us slowed down at different sections. Things really got slow after the Brutus junction, as we had to plan each step carefully and hug every tree we could get our hands on. The final stretch of steep gravel was the slowest and sketchiest - Gen nearly killed me with falling rocks numerous times (I may be exaggerating...). One of our wine friends ended up running down this stretch which was equally impressive and insane, but I picked up my pace and found that footing actually got easier, but I had to think more. The best moment of the descent was when Gen said "okay just one more steep part then we're back," not realizing that we were actually all done and back at the cairns! You could see the relief sweep over her body here.
Our return trip was pretty peaceful as the two main "surprises" (Franconia Brook and the lower part of the slide) were now behind us/expected. The Lincoln Brook Trail was still pretty and extremely muddy, but again, we didn't really care since our feet were already wet. Gen did slip on the crossing of Liberty Brook with a full audience, which was a little funny (only because it was a minor crossing) and we spent some time discussing the different types of mud (sticky mud, wet wet mud, dirt suspended in water mud, sneaky mud, etc.). Most of the Lincoln Brook Trail felt like it went fairly quick, which was well appreciated. We only slowed down when we had to go back across Franconia Brook. My foot did slide a bit and I was sure this was the end, but we made it across slightly faster than the previous time.
The Franconia Brook trail was quick and lovely, just as before. Very gentle, uneventful, and lonely in the good way. Lincoln Woods was very gentle, uneventful, and lonely in the bad way. It felt like it took forever, and it started to rain just after the Black Pond trail junction. We could have stopped for rain gear, but we continued on. By the time we hit the bridge we were soggy and hurting and SO happy to be done! In hindsight, I really did like this hike. I could have lived without Franconia Brook and the slide, but I'm so grateful I was able to spend time deep in the woods with one of my best friends in a place few people actually go. Owl's Head = DONE! (We later learned while having dinner at Pub 32 in Lincoln that exactly one year ago was our Hale-Zealand-Bonds adventure… I guess Lincoln Woods is now a September 25th tradition?)
- Start hike at Lincoln Woods Trailhead.
- Hike Lincoln Woods Trail in its entirety.
- At terminus, turn right onto Franconia Brook Trail.
- At junction with Liberty Brook Trail, turn right onto Liberty Brook Trail.
- Carefully cross Franconia and Lincoln Brooks, near the next end there are two more smaller crossings (Liberty Brook and then Lincoln Brook again).
- After last Lincoln Brook crossing, watch for two cairns marking the beginning of Owl's Head Path.
- Turn right onto Owl's Head Path, carefully hike up slide, following small cairns.
- In woods, path is clear, follow path to the summit.
- Retrace steps back to the car.
"Lincoln Woods Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
Lincoln Wood Trail runs for 2.9mi along the west side of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, from the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) to a footbridge over Franconia Brook, forming a central artery from which several trails diverge and lead to various destinations near and in the western part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Lincoln Woods Trail follows the wide bed of a logging railroad that last operated in 1948. The trail begins at a large parking area with USFS information center on the north side of the road (sign: Lincoln Woods), just east of the highway bridge over the East Branch, 5.6mi from the information center at I-93, Exit 32 in Lincoln and 0.3mi beyond the Hancock Campground. This trail receives extremely heavy use, and camping is strictly regulated (See p. 151 for camping regulations). The area along the East Branch was heavily damaged by the 2011 storm, and in many places, the high, steep riverbanks have been severely undercut, creating a serious hazard for hikers who approach too close to the edge.
Note: The suspension footbridge that crossed the East Branch 5.4mi from the Lincoln Woods trailhead was removed in 2009. Advanced route planning is essential. If you are starting your hike at Lincoln Woods, be sure to start on the correct side of the East Branch, depending on your destination. [...]. Do not rely on crossing the river at either the Franconia Brook Tentsite or the site of the former suspension bridge. A former 0.7mi section of the Wilderness Trail on the north side of the river and west of the bridge site has been closed. (This bridge removal does not affect the suspension bridge location at the Lincoln Woods Trailhead).
Leaving the parking lot, Lincoln Woods runs across the deck of the information center and descends a wooden stairway to the left, swings left past a kiosk and crosses the East Branch on a suspension bridge, then turns right and follows the railroad bed along the river, climbing almost imperceptibly. At 0.7mi the trail skis to the left of a major washout from the 2011 storm, with a view over the river to Mt. Hitchcock. Soon the trail crosses Osseo Brook over a culvert and follows it upstream, and at 1.4mi Osseo Trail diverges left to follow Osseo Brook up its valley. Lincoln Woods Trail soon passes the old logging camp 8 clearing on the left, and at 1.8mi, by a piece of old rail, the trail comes close to the river’s edge, where a fine view upstream to Bondcliff can be obtained from the rocks just off the trail.
Soon the trail crosses Birch Island Brook on a bridge, and a long straightaway leads to the jct with Black Pond Trail on the left at 2.6mi. At 2.9mi, just before the bridge across Franconia Brook, Franconia Falls Trail diverges left. From this jct, Lincoln Woods Trail descends ahead to cross Franconia Brook on a footbridge. About 50yd beyond the Franconia Brook footbridge, Lincoln Woods Trail ends at the Pemigewasset Wilderness boundary. Here, Franconia Brook Trail climbs the bank on the left (north) and Bondcliff Trail (formerly a section of Wilderness Trail) diverges right (east). (Note: Use of a former route leading from the north end of the footbridge to a crossing of the East Branch is discouraged because the step stones have mostly been swept away, and the river crossing is often dangerous).
"Franconia Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
This trail runs from a jct. With Lincoln Woods Trail and Bondcliff Trail, 2.9 mi. from the Kancamagus Highway, to Garfield Ridge Trail, 0.9 mi. east of the summit of Mt. Garfield, thus connecting the Pemigewasset East Branch valley with the Franconia-Garfield ridge crest. Practically the entire Franconia Brook Trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The many significant brook crossings may be difficult in high water.
The trail diverges north from the jct. about 50 yd. beyond the footbridge across Franconia Brook, at the boundary of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, and climbs up a steep bank to an old railroad grade, which the trail follows north. The trail crosses Camp 9 Brook at 0.5 mi. and 0.7 mi., and swings right at 1.0 mi. off the railroad grade onto a muddy bypass around a section flooded by an enthusiastic beaver colony, with glimpses of Owl’s Head Mtn. across the swamp. The trail crosses Camp 9 Brook again, turns sharply left back along the brook (avoid the beaten path leading ahead into another swamp), climbs its bank, and soon rejoins the railroad grade, turning sharply right onto the grade at 1.3 mi. In the reverse direction, take care to make the left turn off the railroad grade and the right turn at the brook crossing. The trail continues to the jct. with Lincoln Brook Trail, which diverges left (west) at 1.7 mi.
[...].
"Lincoln Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
The trail begins and ends on Franconia Brook Trail, and together these two tails make a complete circuit around the base of Owl’s Head Mtn. The south jct. is 1.7 mi. north of the bridge over Franconia Brook, and the north jct. is near 13 Falls Campsite, 5.2 mi. from the bridge. (Caution: crossing of Franconis Brook and the first crossing of Lincoln Brook - may be very difficult and potentially dangerous at high water. North of the jct. with Owl’s Head Path, sections of this trail may be difficult to follow.) The entire trail is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.
Turning left (west) off Franconia Brook Trail at the south jct., Lincoln Brook Trail leads southwest through the woods above an area flooded by beavers then descends gradually and bears right onto an old railroad bed just before the crossing of Franconia Brook at 0.5 mi. In another 0.4 mi., after crossing a minor brook, the trail crosses Lincoln Brook from the north to the south side. These two major crossings are not easy even at moderate water levels and are very difficult and potentially dangerous in high water, at which time other hiking options should be considered. If water levels are high, it may be safer for hikers who are traveling south on Lincoln Brook Trail from the Owl’s Head area to bushwhack south along the west side of Lincoln Brook and Franconia Brook, at times following obscure paths, eventually reaching either Franconia Falls Trail or Black Pond Trail.
Beyond the Lincoln Brook crossing, Lincoln Brook Trail follows the brook upstream on a long northward curve, at 1.8 mi. passing the first of several small but attractive cascades. The trail traverses a rough section along the bank then crosses a brook at 2.2 mi. After a short climb it bears left onto an old railroad grade that is muddy in places and then crosses the larger Liberty Brook at 2.8 mi. Soon the trail swings left and right through the small Camp 12 clearing, climbs left to bypass a muddy stretch, rejoins the road, and crosses Lincoln Brook (sometimes difficult) to the east side at 3.0 mi. After a rougher stretch, at 3.4 mi. The trail passes the jct. On the right with Owl’s Head Path, marked only by a cairn, beyond which Lincoln Brook Trail receives much less use. It climbs the slope well above the brook, becoming rough at times, then descends to cross Lincoln Brook again at 4.3 mi.
"Owl’s Head Path" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
This unofficial, unmaintained path ascends the slide on the west side of this remote mountain, starting from Lincoln Brook Trail 3.4 mi. from its south jct. with Franconia Brook Trail and 0.4 mi. beyond the second crossing of Lincoln Brook. At the slide, Lincoln Brook is nearly on the west, and the steep mountainside rises immediately to the east. In 2016 this jct. was marked by a cairl, but USFS regulations prohibit the marking of unofficial paths in Wilderness Areas, so hikers should be prepared to find the beginning of the path - and the path itself - without signs or other markings. The path begins just beyond a mossy flat area to the right of the trail. Caution: The slide is very steep and rough, and though considerably overgrown, it is still potentially dangerous due to loose rock and smooth ledges, especially when wet. Great care should be taken both ascending and descending.
Leaving Lincoln Brook Trail, Owl’s Head Path climbs through dense evergreens, briefly to the right of the narrow slide track, then jonis it and soon emerges on a steep swath of gravel and loose rock. Owl’s Head Path quickly reaches the open part of the slide, which provides good views of the Lincoln Brook valley and Franconia Ridge. The slide has no well defined path; the most-used route, marked by occasional cairns, follows a winding course with a few ledge scrambles. Open ledges at about 2,950 ft. offer the best views and a convenient spot for a rest stop. Above here, one route enters the woods on the right and follows a steep and eroded beaten path, while another climbs the upper open part of the slide to the left. Above the top of the slide, 0.3 mi. and 700 ft. above Lincoln Brook Trail, is a small spring spurting from the rock like a fountain, which unfortunately is not completely reliable. The two routes rejoin, and the path continues up a very steep and rough pitch on an old section of the slide track that trees have reclaimed.
Higher up, the path exits to the left from the track (on the descent, avoid a beaten path continuing ahead at a point where the main path bears right and down) and climbs steeply northeast on a well-trodden but very rough footway usually littered with numerous blowdowns. The path continues climbing steadily up to the ridge, which is reached at 0.7 mi., then swings left and runs near the crest with minor ups and downs. At 0.8 mi., after climbing a short pitch, the path crosses a small clearing at the top of a 4,005-ft. Knob, which had been regarded as the true summit for many years. The well-beaten path continues meandering north along the ridge, descending slightly and rising easily to the true summit (4,025 ft.), marked by a cairn in 2016, at 1.0 mi. (This or other markings may not always be present in the future.)
The path continuing north from the “old” true summit to the “new” true summit is now easy to follow for experienced hikers, although there are occasional faint paths that diverge and merge; in particular, in the reverse direction there is a fork where a false path diverges left and the correct path leads to the right. Interesting though restricted views are sometimes obtained around the summit area from blowdown patches; if this summit was not densely wooded, it would afford one of the finest views in the mountains due to its strategic location in the center of the great horseshoe formed by the ridge running from the Franconias to the Bonds.
