Mt. Israel via Wentworth Trail (White Mountain National Forest)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 4.41 miles
Elevation: 1,768 feet
Time: 2 hours, 26 minutes (2 hours, 8 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: 52 With a View
The Hike
Somehow I made it to May 19th without hiking any 52 With-a-Views? I guess that could partly be due to last winter's obsesstion with skiing, tackling other hiking challenges (including my first three winter 4ks), and having less than 10 52's left, many of which are trending on the more difficult/very far side of things. The night before was the famous celebration of being laid off of my last job (we've turned that traumatic event into a VERY fun day - mini golf in Boston's Seaport, hitting a couple beer gardens, dinner, and of course dessert!), so my 3:30am alarm did not feel great. Either way, I was up and out by 3:45 and started the long, sleepy drive up north.
I made it to Hooksett just before 5am. I did not have the pleasure of christening the bathroom but they were fully stocked with breakfast sandwiches! I still have yet to figure out when they are actually available or if its just when they want to sell them? I was back on the road right at 5:00am and the weather was continuing to be just misty enough where it was annoying. The second bit of my drive was a little nicer as the mist eased up and the sun began to rise. The third was my favorite - NH-113 is a lovely drive! Always fun to see Mts. Morgan & Percival from the road. I also saw two deer just chilling. Unfrotuantely, my lower intestines activated for the last 20 minutes of my drive. Thankfully there was a porta-potty at the tennis courts in Center Sandwich that truly saved my life. From Center Sandwich to the trailhead the road was windy and lovely, even the dirt portion. The very end goes past some cow pastures and shows a great view of nearby mountains with a stunning green-to-brown gradient (similar to Ferncroft, but smaller).
I landed at the trailhead just after 6:00am and convinced myself that I was ready to rumble! The bountiful mosquitos quickly sent me back into my car to reevaulate my decisions - but after a soaking spraying of deet I was all set (with only some possible mental side effects I'll deal with in my 60s). I threw my windbreaker on to save my arms, threw on my waterproof boots just in case the trail was a disaster (it wasn't!), and got hiking by 6:15am! I took a week off hiking becuase of some intense hip pain I gifted to myself after my severely hungover hike on the Wapack Trail, so I was intered to see how this would go!
The parking area is right at the Mead Base at the end of the cow pasture road. There is a long, white building, that may or may not be open in season? There are campsites, a bathroom, and a boyscout storage shed on the other side of the parking area. There is some literature about the area right at the trailhead kiosk - I didn't have a chance to read it due to bugs, so I took a few photos to read later. Later is now!
Mead Base: Practicing Conservation of the Land
Concerned about a proposed large timbering project in Sandwich Notch, George Jackson Mead purchased over 2,400 acres of land around Mt. Israel from 1943-1944. The land acquisition included the Smith family farmhouse, which had sat unoccupied for nearly a decade.
A cofounder of Pratt & Whitney Aircraft Corporation in Hartford, Connecticut, George Mead as a child had camped in the Sandwich Notch region and there had helped to construct the Algonquin Trail up to Sandwich Dome. This boyhood experience forged a lifelong passion for conserving the White Mountain region's natural beauty and recreational opportunities.
Following Mead's death in 1949, his wife, Cary, donated the land that her husband had saved to the White Mountain National Forest.
"This must have awakened in Jack a desire to make trails, because always, throughout his lift, he not only loved to climb mountains but loved to clear old trails and make new ones." - Cary Hoge Meade's reminiscence of her husband's childhood experience constructing hiking trails in Sandwich, New Hampshire, from her book Wings over the World: The Life of George Jackson Mead.
After acquiring the land, the U.S. Forest Service entered into a special use permit leasing the farmhouse and adjacent property to the Daniel Webster Council of the Boy Scouts of America. The Scouts constructed campsites and facilities while also providing upkeep on the historic house.
From 1953 through 1999, generations of Boy Scouts learned outdoorsmanship and conservation on the very mountains and trails where as a boy George J. Mead himself had discovered his love for the White Mountains of New Hampshire.
Six Generations
In 1760, Jacon Smith of Exeter, New Hampshire, purchased 1,000 acres of land at the base of Mt. Israel. A prominent early resident of the town of Sandwich and later a Revolutionary War officer, Jacob divided much of his parcel amongst his family late in life - leaving to his son, Eliphalet, 50 acres in 1815.
Building a house on the land, Eliphalet Smith's family cleared trees and cultivated new farmland. Recently returned from the War of 1812, John Smith - Eliphalet's son - next acquired the property.
Around 1830, Eliphalet's original farmhouse burned, prompting Eliphalet and John to build a new house at the current location of Mead Base. By 1867, John's son, Lewis Q. Smoth, had acquired the family farm. A Civil War veteral, Lewis built the main portion of the farmhouse that stands today.
The home stood unoccupied for 7 years following the death of Lewis and his wife. Finally in 1922, one of Lewis's children, Demerit, and his wife sold their own farm and moved into the family homestead.
Like the previous generations, Demerit and his wife, Eve, farmed the land. Capitalizing on growing tourism to the White Mountains, Demerit displayed family artifacts to visitors, such as his father's Civil War uniform and military drum.
In 1935, while suffering from physical and mental illness, Demerit took his own life in the house.
Passing to Beatrice Smith, granddaughter of Lewis, the property was soon thereafter sold to W. Wallace Benjamin of New York - ending six generations of Smith ownership.
Following the kiosk, the trail turns onto a grassy patch past a wooden gate, past the trail sign, and then into the woods. The second the trail crossed into the woods, I heard truly the loudest cow "moo" I've ever heard - magical, yet terrifying! I also realized I forgot to bring poles, whoops...
A few minutes in I noticed bugs were not biting and were decently at bay when moving, so I stopped for no more than 10 seconds to stuff my windbreaker and immediately inhaled a bug (felt the bug die on the back of my throat kind of inhaled). The first part of trail was at a moderate grade and well maintained. It crossed a stone wall, dipped slightly, crossed two streams while following the contour, until finally turning to follow a stream with some lovely-yet-ugly cascades (lots of dirt and miscelaneous rummage).
I stopped for a photo along the stream and was immediately attacked by more bugs. I then almost stepped on my first red eft of the season! I stopped to get a photo and, you guessed it, got attacked by bugs. I also began to feel a familair hip sensation to last sunday's hike on the Wapack Trail... ugh...
Further up around the one mile mark I saw probably the last of the winter-seasonal views towards the lake, and then the trail began to steepen and become more rugged (with MANY more efts). The old trail continued up around 1.18 miles while the new reroute had a wide switchback that was lovely, turning at some large rocks.
I was thoroughly enjoying my hike until... I felt it. A tummy rumble. Oh no. I had already taken care of business (impressively so, might I add) - it's truly not possible that I would need to do it again! To be continued...
The trail continued around another switchback higher up. There was a surprising amount of pink flagging tape uphill off-trail. I thought maybe marking another reroute, but the tape was pretty scattered... a mystery! The trail led to a nice view after the switchback, but the clouds were QUICKLY rolling in.
After the view the trail turned for a short but steep section before leveling out in a BEAUTIFUL forest. I did begin to worry about the return trip - most of the rock slabs were mossy and wet... a later problem. I continued on, now slowly gaining elevation, and I realized two of my fears were coming true. 1) I was hiking directly into a cloud (I really wanted a view!) and 2) my stomach was NOT feeling any better.
My turmoil was slightly lifted when I saw the cutest little toad hopping along the trail. There is another slight ascent which leads to the summit area of Mt. Israel's West Knob which confirmed my first fear: I was FULLY in a cloud. I never mind cloudy hikes, I find a certain peace with them, but I was a bit thirsty for a view...
From the west knob the trail dips back into the woods before rising to a ledgy section that offered more socked-in views. The trail was a little dodgy to follow here, but there was usually a blaze on the rocks when needed. After one final dip into the woods, the trail hits the Mead Trail junction, and finally continues to the summit cairn of Mt. Israel with a stunning view of the inside of a cloud - yippee! There was a bolt next to the cairn which was always fun.
The second I landed at the summit I realized I simply had to use the bathroom, and not the easy one. The ledgy summit area made this even more of a challenge, especially with my goal of not being an absolute terror to every hiker who comes up here in the next x days/weeks. I squeezed my way into the nearby woods, dug a hole under a rock, and successfully scared away every animal within a 100-yd radius. All of the magnificent bird calls seemed to come to a halt at once... it was humbling to say the least.
My business was done and my next goal was to find the "lightly beaten path" that leads to another ledge with views. Basically, if you continue on the direction the Wentworth Trail sends you on, you'll find the lightly beaten path. The ledge area would actually be stunning when there was a view, but alas... I did faintly make out the shape of a nearby peak through the clouds, so I guess that's a win?
I worked my way back to the summit cairn where I had my sitting break. There were no views, but also no bugs, so I'll take that as a win! I think it's also time I start carrying a water bladder again - just the Nuun Nalgenes don't seem to be cutting it with the level of moisture my body is excreeting as temperatures rise.
With my hip starting to act up again I had to make a decision. Obviously, I had to make it down to my car in one piece (which would soon prove to be MUCH harder than anticipated). I could go back the way I came and continue on my plan for the day (drive over and hike Big Ball (lol) in the Ossipees), I could pivot to the 8-mile loop with the Mead Trail, Guinea Pond Trail, and Sandwich Notch Road, or I could go back the way I came and head home. Bugs turned me off of pivoting to the loop (I want to come back sometime in the future to 1) see the views and 2) do the big loop without bugs - probably in the fall). I figured I would decide about Big Ball from the bottom.
I started my return down Wentworth Trail through a somehow thicker cloud cover. My camera lens was fully fogged up at this point - whatever. I also noticed that my hip wasn't hurting as much - just on the small uphills. I did have a moment of sheer TERROR around the 3-mile walk... another tummy rumble. This wasn't just a rumble, it was a full cramp. How is this possible? More? HOW?
I knew I was in my final mile when I could hear the cows mooing down below, even if I was still deep in a cloud. The cramps began to intensify the further down low I got and I was faced with a sever "CODE: Brown" in my final half mile. I was absolutely torn about what to do. Do I relieve myself in these open woods with a high likelihood someone would come up? Do I fight gravity and show my digestive system who's boss? I went with the latter, and oh wow, I've never had such a painful, terrifying return hike. In hindsight, the tequila, tacos, and ice cream last night probably weren't the best move, and the massive amount of caffeine I had this morning likely didn't help either.
I didn't take many photos in this tumultuous return trip, so here's another eft.
Step by step, I continued my humbling journey. Eventually, I made it back to the stream - now we're close! I continued my downhill jaunt, VERY CAREFULLY stepping to avoid slippery rocks and the 15,000 red efts littering the trail. If I slipped and fell, it would absolutely be game over. At this point, if I chose to relieve myself in the woods, I would also become lunch for the gnarly mosquito population. Things were getting dire.
Now in my last 0.25 miles, my body was fighting harder than it ever had to expel the poising. I had to remove my hip belt the pressure was so strong. I could only imagine the faces I was making as I was getting the most intense ab and kegel exercises of my life. My pace was slowing down. The "garbage chute" was on FIRE. I could see the farm house! I could see my car! Then... I seemed to have blacked out...
When I blacked back in I was somehow back in the porta-potty right at the tennis courts of Center Sandwich. It turns out the trailhead bathrooms are in the middle of a campsite that was FILLED with camping scouts, my cramps had momentarily subsided, and I was NOT emotionally prepared to scar those children for life. Without getting too graphic, I think my body expelled pure stomach acid. I made the executive decision after this experience to not do a second hike, which would turn out to be the correct move. I had more... uhm... "traumatic events" in a Hannafords in Concord and felt particularly nauseous for the rest of my drive.
All dramatics (and excriments) aside - it was a lovely hike, and I look forward to returning on a clear day to do the big loop! #44: Done!
Step-By-Step
- Start hike, summit, and end hike on yellow-blazed Wentworth Trail.
“Wentworth Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
SLA This trail ascends Mt. Israel from Mead Base Conservation Center - located at the end of Diamond Ledge Rd., 0.4 mi. north of its jct. with Sandwich Notch Rd. and 2.9 mi. from NH 113 in Center Sandwich - and affords splendid views of the Lakes Region and the Sandwich Range. Prk in the field below the camp buildings. The access road and parking area are usually plowed in winter. In mus season, the parking area may be partially or fully closed. This parking area can become quite busy and hikers should park in the designated lot only and not along the roadway or in other areas that would interfere with access to adjacent private residences. (Friends of Mead Base Conservation Center maintains three campsites at this trailhead; for more information, visit meadbase.org.)
Yellow-blazed Wentworth Trail enters the woods at the left rear of the main camp building (sign) and leads directly uphill, following an old cart path through an opening in a stone wall 0.3 mi. above the camp. The trail turns right and angles up the hillside above the wall, crosses a brook and turns left to follow it, and then turns right, away from the brook, at 0.8 mi. Soon the trail begins to switchback up the slope, fairly steeply and roughly at times. At 1.5 mi. it passes a rock face on the right and a fine outlook (views over the Lakes Region) 10 yd. farther on the left. The trail scrambles up a ledge and reaches a ridge 100 yd. farther up, where climbing becomes easier. Wentworth Trail soon becomes almost level in a dense coniferous forest and then turns right at a ledge (good view north) near the summit of the west knob and continues along the ridge (follow markings with care), descending briefly before rising to the jct. on the left with Mead Trail; the summit is a ledge 70 yd. past the jct. Cairns mark a lightly beaten path that leads about 100 yd. northeast from the summit to ledges with views to the north and east.
