Mt. Carrigain via Signal Ridge Trail (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Carrigain via Signal Ridge Trail (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 14.90 miles
Elevation: 3,993 feet

Time: 7 hours, 39 minutes (7 hours, 3 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers; 52 Hike Challenge 2024; Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge

The Hike

One more 4,000 footer before school starts? Sounds like a plan! Getting up was HARD for this one - I hadn't given myself much time, if any, to really recover from my jaunt in the Presidentials a few days ago (it was Labor Day weekend, lots of music and dancing - no regrets!). My alarm was set for 3:30, I immediately chugged water and Advil, and only made it to the Mobil off of Dascomb Road in Andover (open 24 hours!) before I needed to buy something to keep me up (Goldfish was the answer!). I made it to Hooksett at 5:05am where I gently christened the bathroom and DID get a breakfast sandwich! It had been a while since I got one here due to timing. I got one for now and one for the summit. 

The second part of my drive was VERY sleepy. The skies were clear and some higher peaks were in whispy clouds. I alternated snacking on whatever was available, the Wicked soundtrack, and scream singing whatever my Spotify thought I needed to keep myself awake. After a few "stop and shakes" - where you pull over, stop the car, get out, and shake - I eventually made it to the Sawyer River Road parking area around 7:00am. 

"Sawyer River Road Temporarily Closed" by US Forest Service

"If you’re planning to recreate in the Mt. Carrigan or Sawyer Pond area you should be aware Sawyer River Road in Bartlett, NH is closed to all vehicle access due to storm damage. A heavy rain event in December 2023 washed out a portion of the road making it impassable to vehicles.  Foot travel will be allowed, although parking at the gate located on US Rt. 302 is limited. At this time there is no estimate when the road will be repaired.

Due to the washout (which I believe is the fourth time its been closed due to storm damage since 1995) the out-and-back hike to Carrigain has now been extended by 4ish miles. I'm no stranger to a 14 mile day, and honestly I prefer them when I have the time availability, so I wasn't too bummed about this (until the return... more on that later). I had new insoles to try out on this hike - the classic Dr. Scholl's ones for plantar fasciitis. I remember I used to deal with it after long hikes, but I bought something for my last pair of hiking shoes, and I think it was these? Time will tell! The lot was filling up as I was getting ready. I let the other parties get a head start while I slowly got myself together and then... like clockwise... rumble... It was time to christen these woods. In my journey to leave as little a trace as possible, I stumbled upon an old chimney/fireplace in the woods? Very curious. [EDIT FROM THE FUTURE: Apparently it's a remnant of the ghost town of Livermore - I need to learn more about it!].

ANYWAY. It was now 7:20am and I was off! It was a cool, humid 51 degrees on the very easily graded Sawyer River Road. My fleece came off five minutes in and a few more minutes later I arrived at a clearing on the right. Looks like someone wants to build something? Not sure. There was some piece of equipment labeled as "ROCK TOUGH: QUALITY ROCK SCREENING PRODUCTS." According to sandsandsoils.com, rock screenings are "The rock screenings is the rock dust left over after cut gravel is washed. Because the screenings are a rock product, it tends to be more coarse than sand. Screenings pack well and form a base either over time or by tamping it down."

Sawyer River Road follows the Sawyer River high above its banks, which is down below on the left when traveling uphill. I also sstarted to notice a tall peak also on the left about 0.5 miles in, could it be Tremont?  The surprisingly pleasant road walk continued along, passing some surprisingly steep drainages on the right. The road narrows and then hits the big washout area at 1.14 miles, which provided a really nice view to, what I confirmed as Mt. Tremont! I was surprised it looked so big from down here, but I also remembering thinking I would perish climbing that mountain, so it made sense!

Continuing on, some more of the road had washed out ruts but nothing structurally severe. The road passes someone's home (according to the 4000 footers facebook group, the owner is allowed to drive past the washout if he hugs the right side really tight). The home had a stunning view of Mt. Tremont - I'm jealous! I am curious if they'll continue to repair this road long-term or let it be reclaimed as a trail one day? It reminds me of the Tunnel Brook story I saw on YouTube. 

Just after the property, Sawyer River Road passes some old brick walls/foundations that look long since abandoned. Curious if it was a home or something to do with logging? Just a little further past on the right there was another concrete foundation with a few bricks on top. 

The road reaches the hight-of-land at 1.9 miles, crosses the Whiteface Brook on a bridge and comes to the official Signal Ridge Trail trailhead and parking area at 2.1 miles. There was a large parking area here, and unfortunately a significant amount of toilet paper. Have some class, people! I took my poles out and was officially on the trail at 8:10am.

The Signal Ridge Trail is legally blazed in yellow but I think I saw no more than 10 blazes the whole day. The trailbed started on a relocated section on soft dirt and slippery roots, more or less meandering through the woods. The trail veers near and away from the Whiteface Brook before joining it for some time and leaving the Forest Protection Area.

During this time, I had the first of many crazy crazy squirrel encounters. This one squirrel ran up on a stick to stare into my soul, unblinking, unwavering. As I stepped it would follow, and that continued for a couple minutes. What is happening to these beasts??

The Whiteface Brook has some fun waterslide/cascading moments with a few pools as well. The trail comes close enough for a partial view at one point. The trail then switchbacks up onto a higher bit of land to travel above the bank - another relocated section. I was delighted to see some red maple leaves on the ground here! Fall is coming!

My tummy continued to feel funny throughout this section, BUT the abundance of excellent fungi helped distract me. I got photos of three different ones, but the Seek app could only identify Orange Mycena from my photos. They were so cool!

The Signal Ridge Trail later rejoins the old treadway and continues on through a wet stretch. I heard some people behind me who I think missed the turn for the relocation. The wet stretch had a series of stepping stones and corduroy, which was mildly helpful. The trail climbs a little more moderately before flatting out for nice, long walking break. Now, the trail was away from the brook and there wasn't a single sound in the woods (besides the people behind me) - overall, very peaceful. The trail passes the overgrown Carrigain Brook Road at 3.7 miles and begins to descend to easily cross the Carrigain Brook, where I stopped for a break to eat, sip, let the people behind me pass, and christen the woods (apparently I was a topic of conversation for them - person 1 saw me but person 2 didn't, so person 2 didn't believe I existed until person 1 saw me and said "I told you!"

I knew my break was over when another crazy crazy squirrel ran right up to me to yell at me. The flat trail continued, skirting around a beaver meadow and offering an extremely restricted view of Signal Ridge HIGH above. Now my tummy was still feeling bad, but it was the upper tummy instead of the lower tummy... ugh. The trail continued across a boardwalk section before reading the junction with Carrigain Notch Trail! If Sawyer River Road was open, I would have liked to done the lollipop loop with the Desolation and Carrigain Notch Trails, but that is just more miles than I wanted to do by myself today (especially in my current condition!). 

At this junction the Signal Ridge Trail leaves the road grade onto another newer, meandering stretch of trail, following switchbacks up a hump and then back down again on the other side of the beaver meadow. There were some partially-eaten trees, too! I'm sure there would be some nice views from the meadow if I worked hard and did some light exploring, but I was on a mission! I did have to take a break to take some tums because I was NOT thriving in the tummy department. 

After re-rejoining an old logging road, the trail crosses a small stream on a sketchy log bridge, climbs a bit at a confusing spot via switchbacks, and crosses an impressive, rocky, dry, washed out area. Now is when the fun would truly begin!

This is the actual climb up Signal Ridge, and it can more-or-less be broken up into three segments: initial, the mile, the push. The initial is pretty standard. A little bit of zig-zagging with rocky footing at moderate, sometimes steep grades. I did see a snake during this stretch! I also passed a guy I saw at the trailhead during this section - he did not say hi to me... rude. In hindsight, he must have turned back early. Hours would go by before I saw anyone else from the trailhead, unless he really sprinted up and down? Segment one concludes with a final switchback in an area with lots of loose rocks/scree.

Segment two is "the mile" - "Signal Ridge Trail turns sharply right into a birch-lined straight section 1.0 mi. long with rocky footing that rises steadily at an angle up the steep side of the valley, with occasional restricted views." (from the White Mountain Guide). This section was exceptionally brutal. I was moving SLOW. I think partly because of the damage I've done to my body the past two days, but also some residual soreness from my hike to Monroe/Washington/Clay three days ago (in hindsight, though, I was pretty at my usual pace. It was over 1000 ft in a mile, so a 50 minute mile is pretty normal for me). 

This bit of trail would be beautiful during foliage season, though! I also almost stepped on another crazy squirrel who was just chillin' mid-trail. Some clouds were rolling in and over, which would create some chilly moments. There were these really cool mushrooms that I hadn't seen before - orange stems with these dark blue-green heads. I can't find the name from Seek or a generic google search, but hopefully someone on Facebook will know!

The mile continued slowly and emotioanlly taxing. There were some neat tree-views of Mt. Lowell, though. The air was cooler and breezier up here, which encouraged me to keep it moving. My tummy was coming and going in waves, which was bummer, but some of the birch leaves were starting to yellow, which was fun! A think what made this section torturous was that there were no benchmarks or features - it was just a slow climb. Eventually I did hit a little viewpoint toward nothing I can easily identify, but I'll take anything at this point!

Eventually, the dreaded mile comes to a close and segment three begins: the push! Hope began to feel renewed at this point. Sky was beginning to (slowly) show through the trees. It was noticeably chillier now and I was beginning to cross paths with the folks who, I assume, got hiking about an hour before the 7am crew. I did notice, though, that these folks were not in the friendliest mood. Usually I run into that in the Blue Hills, not the White Mountains?

SLOWLY, the trees began to get smaller as I grew nearer to Signal Ridge. This truly is a long, brutal climb. At least the Ammonoosuc Trail was steep but got right to the point! Eventually, I rounded a corner and was officially on a spine, and THEN made it to the first view! I took some photos here, but truly should have kept moving becuase just a few more feet down the trail was where the main Signal Ridge Views were. 11:17am!

From these veiws, the Lowell Cliffs looked insane. I loved seeing Willey, Field, and Tom from a new angle. Webster, Jackson, Pierce, and Eisenhower were saying "Hi!," while the rest of the Presidentials were in the clouds (Boott Spur was still free, though!). I also loved seeing the Montalban Ridge, as always. 

Continuing down the short, narrow ridge (in my head this section was longer, but that's on me for not reading the guidebook before like I ususally do), I could see down to the Sisters and Chocorua, and forward to the true summit of Mt. Carrigain. Clouds were rolling about, providing fun shadows on the peaks and valleys. I was definintely feeling chilly up here, but I knew there was still a little more climb left, so I held off on layering up.

I began to cross paths with a bunch of people (which I was thrilled with - meaning I would have the summit without crowds). The trail dips into a sag and then begins to climb moderately, passing the old fire warden's well. At this point, my energy has fully shifted and I'm back to feeling great! Funny how a view can do that...

There was a brief stairway to heaven (created in hell) to a tentsite near the top. The trail veers right and eventually comes to the base of the tower! The two people who I saw at Carrigain Brook were on the tower and nobody else - yay! I took some photos at the base of the tower, mostly the view back toward Signal Ridge and the USGS Disc. I did change my shirt to a dry one and put my fleece and puffy on before heading up. Summited at 11:44am!

The tower climb was only a little sketchy. It was COLD and WINDY, but the sun felt delightful. The duo left once I arrived, so I had the whole view to myself! It was 45 degrees at the summit with 10-15mph winds, bringing the windchill to the mid-30s. I've read plenty about the views here (and how you can see 43 of the 4000 Footers), and it did not disappoint. I think even more fun was how many 52s I could see from up here, too! My favorite parts of the view were 1) the ENTIRE Sandwich Range, from Chocorua to the Tripyramids 2) the Bonds with Mr. Garfield poking over the back, 3) how dramatic Zealand Notch looked, and 4) seeing the Montalban Ridge - I don't know what it is about this ridge that always makes me so excited... maybe just because it was one of my longest solo-wilderness hikes to date when I did it? Maybe the people I chatted with who were just as crazy as me? Not sure, but I love it!

I took a ton of photos and had a nice break where I ate my second breakfast sandwich and, of course, my Reece's Big Cups. I understand why so many people save this one for last! It's just a shame (or maybe not a shame?) that it's such a pain to get to). I only got moving again when I started to get cold after 15ish minutes. I carefully descended the tower, stashed my puffy and started my trip down, hoping to get ahead of my Carrigain Brook duo who were also wrapping things up.

I stopped just a bit further down trail to tie my shoes and then crossed paths with a bunch of folks (different groups) heading up - excellent timing on my part! My fleece came back off in the col between the summit and the high point of Signal Ridge, and then I was cruising! My usual philosophy of "let gravity do the work" on descents worked well for me during segment three, but man segment two, "the  mile" still was brutal. It was validating for me, though, to see everyone who was still ascending to be fighting for their lives. I get it!

After what felt like HOURS (probably 35 minutes) I hit the scree corner, marking the beginning/end of segment one. Some dark clouds rolled in and some light rain drops began to fall, but nothing problematic. The pitter patter of the rain on the leaves was actually kind of lovely. I passed the red maple leaves, saw some "artifacts" at what I can only assume was an old logging camp, and made it to the little hump near the beaver pond - a bit of uphill travel that I was NOT ready for.

Up and down, I was now back at the junction with Carrigan Notch Trail, and then I was crossing Carrigain Brook. The long, flat section was easy-going, and then I made it back to the Whiteface Brook. The sun was back out as I reentered the Forest Protection Area and passed a large group of backpackers heading into the wilderness - I want to know their story!

Soon enough I was away from the brook on the meandering footbed and made it back to the trailhead at 2:16pm, after 12.86 miles. I heard a LOUD sound from the parking area, but when I checked it out I didn't see anything? I thought a car/machine, but the road is closed? Maybe a tree/limb falling or a mammal? Really not sure. 

Now it was time for the road walk! I was mentally framing this as going to be a nice cool-down on the legs, but unfortunately the relative flatness of the road did not allow gravity to help me in the slightest. I was TIRED. The kind of tired where if you blink, you might fall asleep (while walking). I did find a little offshoot with some blank sign-posts. Maybe marking an old footpath down to the river?

The rest of my walk was pretty uneventful. I couple passing rain showers, a few people heading up (one guy in jeans and a work-style backpack?), and a couple on bikes with their two dogs running alongside. Soon enough I could hear 302, and even sooner I was back at the car! My goal was to drive as much as I could before my body inevitably failed me - which would be at the Sanbornton Rest Area. Way before then, though, I noticed Crawford Depot was more annoying than usual, and it was beacause there was a bull moose in Saco Lake! I didn't stop for photos because people were being... people, and I did not want to stress that poor moose out more than it likely already was. That marked my fourth moose sighting (two on the way to Nash Stream Forest via VT-105, one on Bear Notch Road on my way to Table Mountain, and now here!). I took a FAT snap at Sanbornton (literally don't remember falling asleep), and then stocked up on driving snacks at the Shaws in Concord before finishing my drive.

I had one final moment of validation while reading "The 4000-Footers of the White Mountain: A Guide and History" (Smith & Dickerman, 2023). They described the footing on "the mile" of the Signal Ridge Trail as "unrelievedly rocky" - I had never even heard the word "unrelievedly" before, but that described it to a T! #40 = complete!

Step-By-Step

- Park at Sawyer River Rd. parking lot off of US-302.

- Road walk from the parking area to the Signal Ridge Trail trailhead on Sawyer River Rd.

- Hike Signal Ridge Trail to the summit of Mt. Carrigain.

- Retrace steps back to car.

"Geography" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

Mt. Carrigain (4,680 ft.) is the central and highest point of a mass of jumbled ridges that divides the watershed of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River from that of the Saco River and its tributary, Swift River. The mountain was named for Philip Carrigain, the New Hampshire secretary of state from 1805 to 1810. Carrigain made a map of the whole state in 1816, which included an early attempt to portray the White Mountains regrion that can best be described as imaginative. He was one of the party that named Mts. Adams, Jefferson, Madsion, and Monroe from the summit of Mt. Washington in 1820. The view from the observataion tower on Mt. Carrigain takes in a wide area and includes most of the important peaks of the White Mountains, making Mt. Carrigain one of the competitors for the title of the best viewpoint in the White Mountains. The view from Signal Ridge (4,420 ft.), Mt. Carrigain's open soueasterly spur, is also magnificent. The trailless northeasterly spur, Vose Spur (3,847 ft.), forms the west wall of the deep cleft of Carrigain Notch, facing Mt. Lowell. 

"Signal Ridge Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF/CP This trail ascends to the summit of Mt. Carrigain by way of Signal Ridge, starting from Sawyer River Rd. (FR 34) 2.0 mi. from its jct. with US 302, which is 1.6 mi. north of the Sawyer Rock picnic area and 7.9 mi. south of the Willey House site in Crawford Notch State Park. Signal Ridge Trail begins oin the right, just past the bridge over Whiteface Brook; a parking lot is on the left, also just beyond the bridge. Sawyer River Rd. is not plowed in winter; plowed parking is available on the left where the road leaves US 302. The trail climbs moderately for most of its distance, using old roads that once provided access to the fire warden's cabin. The views from the observation tower on the summit and from Signal Ridge are magnificent. The loop back to Sawyer River Rd. via Desolation and Carrigain Notch trails is interesting but much longer, rougher, and more strenuous. Several relocations were made on the lower half of Signal Ridge Trail in 2012. 

        Leaving the road on a relocated section, Signal Ridge Trail ascends along the south side of Whiteface Brook. It joins the older route of the trail at 0.3 mi. and follows the south bank of the attractive brook, passing small cascades and pools, and then turns left onto another relocated section at 0.6 mi. It rejoins the older route at 0.8 mi. and begins to climb steadily away from the brook, traversing one muddy, rough section, and then levels and crosses a flat divide. At 1.4 mi., Carrigain Brook Rd., an overgrown logging road, crosses the trail at a right angle. (This road is not passable for vehicles, but it can be followed south 1.6 mi. to Sawyer River Rd. about 0.3 mi. before the gate at the end of that road; however, there is a difficult brook crossing just before reaching Sawyer River Rd.) At 1.7 mi., Signal Ridge Trail turns right, and in 60 yd. it crosses Carrigain Brook; care is required to find the trail on the opposite bank at this crossing, going either way. (At this right turn, the trail formerly continued ahead, but it has be relocated to follow what was formerly the lower part of Carrigain Notch Trail.) Continuing on logging roads at easy grades, Signal Ridge Trail passes to the right of an area of beaver activity. At 2.0 mi. it turns left onto a new section of trail at a jct. where Carrigain Notch Trail continues ahead. Signal Ridge Trail swings left and climbs over a small ridge, crosses a small brook on a log bridge, and rejoins the older route at 2.3 mi. It now begins to ascend, gradually at first. At 2.7 mi., it turns sharply left where an old road continues straight up the valley. The trail angles up the end of the a ridge, turns right a climbs, makes another sharp left turn (arrow) at the site of an old logging camp, and angles up again. 

        At 3.1 mi., Signal Ridge Trail turns sharply right into a birch-lined straight section 1.0 mi. long with rocky footing that rises steadily at an angle up the steep side of the valley, with occasional restricted views. At the end of this section, the trail turns sharply left and zigzags up the nose of Signal Ridge, reaching the high point of the bare ridge crest at 4.8 mi. Views are excellent, particularly to the cliffs of Mt. Lowell across Carrigain Notch. Signal Ridge Trail descends slightly, enters the woods, and angles left around to the south slope of the summit cone. It climbs gradually to the site of the old fire warden's cabin, where there is a well on the right (an unreliable source, and its water is unsafe to drink without treatment). Bearing left from the small clearing, the trail soon swings right and climbs steeply to the small sag between Carrigain's two summit knobs; it then turns right and quickly reaches the summit, where views are limited on the ground but magnificent from the observation tower. Here, Desolation Trail enters from the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

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