Twin & Indian Head Mountains via Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail & Devil's Path (Catskill Park)
Hike Type: Lollipop Loop w/ Spur
Distance: 8.80 miles
Elevation: 2,382 feet
Time: 4 hours, 22 minutes (3 hours, 56 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: Catskill 3500 Club
The Hike
Time for adventure du jour #2! I noticed Twin Mountain and Indian Head Mountain from the road leading to the trailhead and truly they didn't look too horrible (especially compared to Sugarloaf), so I was feeling confident! I had a sandwich and a Celsius and I was feeling MUCH better. My feet were a little sore, but I was not overly worried about that. The access road had a comical (but understandable) amount of "NO PARKING" signs once the pavement ended, and the actual parking area had ample parking (and two porta potties!). I made use of one before getting suited up. I also noticed a blue car that I saw at the Plateau trailhead - how fun! I was dreaming of doing the out-and-back to Twin and then the loop over Indian Head, but was willing to accept just a full out-and-back to both, or even just to Twin - goal was to listen to my body and reasonably push myself.
[9:25am - Devil's Path]
I signed the trail register right at the trailhead and overhead a couple hiking parties talking about doing the full Devil's Path (they're crazy). The beginning of the trail started similar to Tuckerman Ravine - wide, rocky, but completely easy. There was a gently trickling creek, I crossed paths with my first person of the day, and soon came to the junction with the Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail!
[9:32am - Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail]
The Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail immediately and easily crossed a creek before beginning a long, easy rise through what felt like a rerouted trail. It was warmer out at 68 degrees, but it tragically felt warmer with the humidity in the air. Naturally, I got another bug in the exact same eye as the trail crossed a multitude of dried out drainages. Somewhere around 0.8 miles, the trail exhibited some impressive cobblestone-like stonework that continued for an impressive amount of time.
I continued along the luxurious sidewalk as I realized I simply was not gaining much elevation... at all. The bugs were enjoying the airspace around my ears as I neared the 2500ft contour, which is where the trail began to climb more moderately with a few zig-zags.
After, the trail briefly flattened and then began to CLIMB. It was only about 400 feet of elevation, but it happened quickly and steeply with loose, wobbly footing. I went from wonderfully walking to dreadfully slogging past a nettle grove (I was so tempted to touch one just to see how bad it actually hurt but my survival instincts prevented that, thankfully).
The trail pivoted from unstable, wobbly rocks to larger, stable rock, which I guess was an improvement? Thankfully, I soon landed in Jimmy Dolan Notch, marked by the Devil's Path/Jimmy Dolan Notch trail junction!
[10:19am - Devil's Path/Jimmy Dolan Notch]
From here, I dropped my pack and followed a herd path straight past the Devil's Path sign and through the rugged and wild Jimmy Dolan Notch (AllTrails had a trail mapped to an overlook). There really wasn't much of a view, BUT the geology was magnificent!
Back at the trail signs, I was living in the land of 1,000 flies and chugged some water (water water this time, not Nuun, and it was glorious). The trail sign listed Twin Mountain as being 1.1 miles away - off I go!
The flies continued to be abundant, but thankfully they were neither swarming nor biting. The trail was initially a little grown-in, but was soon completely fine. Staying on-theme, the trail soon became wildly rugged but geologically magnificent. There was a small breeze (thank goodness) that ushered me along while I admored the flowering clovers (I never realized that clovers flowered until this year).
There was a small scramble past, around, and through some more cool rocks and I passed humans #2 and #3, both of which were in good spirits (a good sign!). The Devil's Path passed a couple of rock caves and shelters and I caught a tree view toward Indian Head from scramble #3. After rounding a shoulder, the terrain and temperature both cooled off in some denser woods, soon passing a grown-in ledge view to Indian Head.
[10:45am - Devil's Path/Twin Mountain South Peak]
After the grown-in view, the Devil's Path rounded the south peak of Twin Mountain and a short spur path led to a rock that provides views of... trees. It was kind of a neat spot, just being immersed in trees, though! The sun was HOT.
After the south peak, the trail became wonderful! There was soon a fantastic view to Sugarloaf and a shoulder of Plateau Mountain plus many more distant peaks. It was a shame that it was so hazy out, but that's really just a hazard of hiking in the summertime.
The sun was BAKING me, so I didn't stay to enjoy the view. I passed some blueberry bushes that weren't quite ready for snacking, and then the Devil's Path began to tragically, but easily descend. The descent felt like a long time, but I'm sure it truly wasn't that bad.
The col was covered in beautiful trees and moss and then the Devil's Path began to steeply climb again (at least the rocks were still really cool...). Thankfully, the climb was short and sweet (even though I thought I was going to die from exhaustion) and soon passed a "no camping" area and then the somehow even more-inconsquential-than-Plateau summit, which had "TWIN" etched into a trail marker.
[11:13am] - Twin Mountain Summit
Right after the boring summit was a nice viewpoint, simialr to the one off of the south summit, but lesser. I enjoyed some pistachios and water (water had truly never tasted so good), wrung the liters of sweat out of my sshirt, and soon began me trip back to Jimmy Dolan Notch.
I passed over the height-of-land and what I think was a summit rock ~5ish feet off trail and then scrambled down back to the col. I dilly-dallied a little too long taking photos, and the flies unfortunately discovered my hair (which I can't imagine smelled very good, but to each their own, I guess...). The re-ascent was moderate at worst with mostly good footing - truly fine. I enjoyed the view from the south peak's ledge with a wonderful, short-lived breeze. I scrambled down the three scrambles, soon landing back in the notch.
[11:38am - Devil's Path/Jimmy Dolan Notch]
Now it was decision time. I had three options: 1) go back to the car from here, 2) go up Indian Head, descend back here, and return to the car, or 3) do the full loop from here. My emotional heart wanted to do the loop, but I was worried about the heat, exhaustion, and my lack-of-abundance of water. I puhed off the decision until later, again. I shoved some more pistachios into my mouth, popped an Advil for my aching shoulder (thanks, Plateau), and started climbing again just as an unhappy couple arrived from the Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail.
I was upset when I realized that I hadn't seen a 3500' Feet sign ONCE on these hikes - maybe they're only for the taller peaks... The Devil's Path was steep, but not as bad as the climb up Twin or even to the notch. I was going slow, but I was glad it was easier. I nearly stepped on a tiny frog, but thankfully saved his life.
Continuing to climb, I laughed at how soaked my soaks and even shoes now were. I made the decision that I would do the loop as long as my heart rate went back down after my climbing was done. There were tree views behind back to Twin Mountain, and soon the Devil's Path rounded a corner and the shoulder, arriving at a wonderful plateau walk.
[12:00pm - Indian Head Mountain Summit (approx.)]
Somewhere along this ridge walk was the summit of Indian Head Mountain! I had hoped to see a sign, cairn, or etched trail marker, but I truly saw nothing. There was one moment of a grown-in viewpoint, which might have been near the summit. I was also borderline delerious, so I may have missed something. Soon enough, I started descending, past a guy I saw in the parking lot who asked me "is the summit far?" - I just said "uh I don't think so?"
I came to an overgrown ledge view where there was a nice breeze - I took a moment here to wring out my shirt (again). I traversed an unproblematic mud put, which was home to dozens of dragonflies. I was actively trying to hike slow to keep my heart rate low and to hopefully cool my sweating. I caught a baby view over to Overlook Mountain and then descended along the bottom of the cliff wall which was truly more impressive than the view.
I crossed paths with a few folks and then kicked another rock with the same foot I used to painfully kick a rock on Plateau, which was a solid bummer. There was a steep descent to a "no camping" area, where I "enjoyed" feeling a squelch with every step due to my soaked shoes from my sweat.
[12:21pm - Devil's Path/Overlook]
I descended to a nice overlook that had a view to a knob that I was going to have to hike over (I think). There was a small poster of a "Gone, Not Forogtten!" memorial just before. On a lighter note, from the view I heard a woman go "what the f**k"? and made the mistake of looking down at a near-vertical climb that I would have to soon descent.
The woman and her daughter slowly made thier way up the scramble and then I CAREFULLY made my way down. I passed a BUNCH of grouses in the col - presumably a mom and her babies. Mom grouse went left and babies went right, so a lot bird whining ensued afterward. I passed another grown-in view and climbed up and over the knob (or climbed the knob and passed the view - unsure of the sequence of events) and began to daydream about all the liquids I was going to drink after my hike.
[12:39pm - Devil's Path/Sherman's Overlook]
I passed a peek-a-view to Plattekill Mountain and then descended along (more) cool rocks, passing another view to Plattekill Mountain and then a very nice view to Kaaterskill High Peak and its surroundings. I shoveled the rest of pistachios, killed my water, and took my first sit of the day (besides in my car) in the shade to mentally prep for my final three miles. I later learned that this viewpoint is "Sherman's Overlook."
I continued to descned along MORE cool rocks (I really appreciated how all the cliffs were like... layered. The trail was shale-y but had mostly stable footing, which was welcomed, as it descended back into a deciduous forest. There was now a constant breeze which kept me alive (and the flies away). I began to pass some more... comical looking hikers, starting with a group of four who looked like they have never hiked a day in their lives before, followed by a man in long-sleeved religious clothing hiking up with only a Poland Spring water bottle and a misting battery-powered fan.
I received a few bug bits at this point and traversed another unproblematic muddy spot (the soft ground actually felt great), and eventually passed people #2 and #3 that I saw forever ago on my ascent up Twin's south peak. I began to regain strength here as the trail began to flatten out and I picked up my speed.
[1:13pm - Devil's Path/Overlook Trail]
Now, I'm unsure of specific trail names because NYSDEC doesn't actually post trail names on their signs, but the Devil's Path eventually turned left onto a road grade that is either the Long Path, Overlook Trail, or Overlook Primitive Bicycle Corridor, or likely some combination of all three. This was a short stretch, though, as the Devil's Path turned left again off of the road grade soon after.
[1:15pm - Devil's Path/Overlook Trail]
This final bit of new trail REALLY tested me. The flies were more active than they had been and I was exhausted. I did hit a few flies (hard), which felt GOOD. The trail undulated and crossed many dry stream beds, eventually crossing a really well-built mostly-dry brook. Naturally, I soon stubbed the same toe for a third time, but after planning my own funeral, I could see the trail sign for the Devil's Path/Jimmy Dolan Notch Junction! I could have cried! The trail sign said 0.5 to the car, which was more than I wanted, but I was just happy to be almost done.
[1:41pm - Devil's Path/Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail]
Thankfully, it was only 0.25 miles back to the parking lot. I signed out, and soon, I was done! I was fericuously thirsty, but all I had in the car was old Gatorade Zero Fruit Punch Packets, which I immediately chugged ang gave myself a tummy ache... Make it work! It was now a hot 82 degrees, and I decided I was more than allowed to be bonked. Between the two hikes, I hiked 15.6 miles and 4,419 feet, with my longest break being the 30 mintues between hikes. Well earned!
[1:46pm - End of Hike]
I soon made my way to Stewarts in Haine's Falls where I shopped like a madman. I got water, Gatorade, Stewart's brand lemonade, a Recee's Big Cup, a double cheeseburger, and a slice of pizza. I got my first and only muscle cramp of the day back at the car, which was more than fine, as it was time to refuel! The only dud of my haul was the lemonade - it was way too sour for me - everything else was magnificent.
There were a wild amount of people walking on NY-23A, I guess looking to picnic along Kaaterskill Creek? My adventure drive was not over yet, though! To my horror, I-87 had a solid amount of traffic. I guess I was not the only person going back to the tri-state area on the Sunday after the 4th of July... I was VERY tired at this point, and the slow traffic was NOT helping. I decided I deserved a treat, so I found a Dairy Queen near Poughkeepsie that I was going to visit. I woke up for the next 20 minutes, but to my HORROR, the Dairy Queen was not only closed and boarded up, but it was also graffitied. As a Plan B, I went to McDonalds, but the line for that was around the corner. Plan C was going to Walmart for a walking break and a box of cereal... It wasn't fun, but it got me home safe and sound.
Step-by-Step
- Park at Devil's Path trailhead.
- Start hike on Devil's Path (red).
- At jct., turn right onto Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail (blue).
- At terminus, turn right onto Devil's Path (red).
- At Twin Mountain summit, turn around.
- At jct. with Jimmy Dolan Notch Trail (blue), continue straight on Devil's Path (red).
- Follow Devil's Path up and over Indian Head Mountain and back to car.
Map of Indian Head Wilderness (NYSDEC)
Photo Album
