Potash Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers; Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge
"civilized hiking" (phr.). struggling, but giving off the illusion you have it all together
Potash Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)
Sandwich Dome & Jennings Peak (White Mountain National Forest)
Hike Type: Out and Back
Distance: 5 miles
Elevation: 2156 feet
Time: 3 hours, 41 minutes (3 hours, 14 mintues Moving)
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge
The Hike
It was a Thursday morning in June and instead of working, Gen and I decided to drive up north to meet the smallest 4000-footer, Mt. Tecumseh. It was a beautiful early summer morning with temperatures in the low 50s which soon rose to a delightful upper 60s. We slept a little later than usual since it was a weekday and there wouldn't be too many crowds to avoid. We made it to the Waterville Valley ski area, drove in circles until we found the trailhead, and got started!
The sun was peeking through the hazy clouds right away as it peered over the Tripyramids, but we were soon in the woods. It was a very quiet morning with what appeared to be hundreds of baby butterflies resting on the ground. The trail was a bit rocky and root-y in the lower half, but nothing ridiculous. A great feature around the halfway point was a very short spur to one of the ski slopes that gave a beautiful view of the sun shining above the Tripyramids and other peaks. Everything was so green this day! (I might be saying this since I'm writing it in January of 2023 and I miss green things...).
After the view is when the stairmaster begins - endless stone steps for as far as the eye could see! I remember reading about this, but I don't remember it bothering me too much (or it's a classic type 2 fun situation). Eventually, the trail will begin to level out and come to a junction with the Sosman Trail, which would have views from the top of the ski area. We continued toward the summit.
There is a small loop trail that goes up and over the summit, and we took it clockwise. The character of the trail changes here - it feels more like wilderness and less like a good cardio workout, which was nice. The footing was also more rugged here, but again, nothing too crazy. Soon enough we were up at the summit! I was pleasantly surprised - I had heard that there wasn't a good view but I disagree - there was a lovely view of the area. I also always appreciate a summit disc!
We took a few photos, chatted with one other hiker who was a local getting her "morning hike in" (the dream), and then continued our hike by first finishing the loop and heading back to the junction with the Sosman Trail. We said we could either do the out and back on the Sosman Trail or head down the mountain and drive over the Welsh-Dickey for another hike, and we decided on the latter. We flew down the mountain and made it back to the car in no time. This may have been the day that I brought a couple Jimmy Dean breakfast sandwiches with me and left them on my dashboard to "cook" - and if it was this day - it worked! It was absolutely delightful. We took a break and a snack in the parking lot, and then drove not too far away for our next hike of the day.
Step-By-Step
Start hike at Waterville Valley ski area parking lot at Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.
Follow yellow-blazed Mt. Tecumseh Trail up mountain, stopping halfway at the view spur.
At junction with Sosman Trail, continue on Mt. Tecumseh Trail.
At the trail split for the summit, choose either direction to reach the summit (we went left).
Summit Mt. Tecumseh!
Continue down the other half of the trail, taking care to not go to Tripoli Road.
Retrace steps to car.
This trail ascends Mt. Tecumseh, starting at Waterville Valley Ski Area at the top right (northwest) edge of the ski area parking loop road, across from lot 1. The trail climbs the east slope of Mt. Tecumseh then descends the northwest ridge to a parking area just off Tripoli Rd. (FR 30), 5.5 mi. east of I-93 (Exit 31, northbound ramp) and 1.2 mi. west of the Mt. Osceola Trail parking area.
Starting at a trail sign at the edge of the ski area parking lot, the trail crosses a small brook, where the trail was washed out by Tropical Storm Irene in 2011. At 0.3 mi. the trail crosses the brook and follows a section of trail along a small ridge above the north side. At 1.1 mi., the trail drops and recrosses the brook then climbs by switchbacks to intersect the former route, an old logging road, about 20 yd. from the edge of the ski slopes; good views can be obtained by following the old trail left to the edge of the open slope. THe main trail turns right and follows the rocky old road, with many volunteer-built rock steps and drainages, angling upward along the south side of the Tecumseh Brook valley and passing two more paths leading to the ski slopes. It then climbs steadily to the main ridge crest south of Mt. Tecumseh, where the trail turns right in a flat area. Here, at 2.2 mi., Sosman trail enters from the left, from the top of the ski area.
In another 120 yd., Sosman Trail forks left to ascend the summit from the west. Mt. Tecumseh Trail swings right, descending slightly to circle the base of the steep cone (passing a restricted view of Sandwich Mtn.), and finally climbs steeply to reach the summit from the north at 2.5 mi. The summit offers open views to the east. Care must be taken to follow the correct trail for the descent; new signage has improved the situation. Mt. Tecumseh Trail leaves north for the ski area and west-northwest for Tripoli Rd., whereas Sosman Trail runs almost due south along the ridge crest then turns sharply right (west) off the ridge and descends. [...].
Welch-Dickey Loop (White Mountain National Forest)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 8.3 miles
Elevation: 2851 feet
Time: N/A
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers
The Hike
Gen and I had such an incredible time climbing Mt. Moosilauke, we headed back up to the whites only two weeks later to tackle the next 4000 footers! We found an article of the "6 beginner 4k hikes" or something, so we decided we would work on that list (which in hindsight, we did a good job with, until our fourth hike was the Hale-Zealand-Bonds traverse... whoops!) which brought us to the Osceolas! We slept at Gen's family cottage in Raymond, NH the night before and left around 4am to hit the trailhead just after sunrise. Emma drove down from northern Vermont, and we were shocked to find her only a few minutes behind us! The trailhead had my favorite thing in the world - composting toilets - so we made use of those, got suited up on the chilly 32-degree morning, and got to our hike!
The trail started out incredibly gentle before beginning to climb. This day ended up being an experiment of layering - and I'm just now remembering that I was hiking this in my old sneakers and cotton sweatpants. We were definitely cold at first, but after the first 20-ish minutes we de-layered because we were cooking. Another 30-ish minutes went by and we were suddenly freezing again (partly because we were wet with improper gear, partly because the wind picked up), so we re-layered. We eventually reached an equilibrium, thankfully, but not without consequence (Gen got a great shot of my ass sweat later in the day).
The trail itself was rather forving with moderate grades and switchbacks galore. Every now and then we would find the sun peeking through the trees which was lovely. In the upper half, there were plenty of switchbacks that eased the grade, but many were along slanted slabs that were brutal on my weak, unprotected ankles. It was in this upper half we also ran into some backpackers who spent the night somewhere in the woods, and were headed back down.
The trail calmed down near the summit with numerous side paths that I did not know about (I didn't get the White Mountain Guide until a few months after this hike), so we continued on to the main view which was spectacular! It was only us and one other person this early in the morning, and the sun was just high enough to warm us back up in the wide open area. We had snacks, took photos, and rested for a while, before continuing our journey onward to East Osceola.
In hindsight, this is where the trail became more of a classic "white mountains hike" - right down and then right back up again, no funny business. There were some nice views toward East Osceola and the surroundings heading down Osceola, and just a bit of autumn red in the valleys. When we hit the fabled chimney section, a group of oncoming hikers told us to veer left to do the bypass on the way down - thank goodness we passed them or else we would have had a whole time getting down that chimney.
The final push up East Osceola was moderate and straightforward, with one great peekaboo view of Mt. Washington and nearby peaks. The actual summit of East Osceola is wooded and underwhelming, with a cairn and a sitting log. We took our pictures, had a snack, and then started retracing our steps.
The entirety of the return trip was swimming upstream. You could tell this was a popular white mountain hike - we passed at least 100 people, if not more. Going up the chimney was very fun and not scary at all, and the final push back up Osceola got a little steep. The main view of Osceola was now a mad house with at least 30 people - we tried to take a break but got way too cranky. The final descent was more of the same - swimming upstream. I know uphill hikers get the right of way, but after a while we just started pushing on. We did pass one couple that was arguing about the hike which was fun! We also got complimented on our matching cotopaxi gear... 14 times. By the end of the hike our knees and ankles were hurting from the descent, but it was still an amazing hike and definitely one of the better "intro to 4k" hikes. We ended our day at the Woodstock Inn Brewery where I had the best margarita before making the pilgrimage home.
*a note I just remmebered - this was 2020 so EVERYONE was getting outside to hike, and there was the weird combination of maskless hikers, hikers with gaiters, hikers with masks, hikers who would jump into the woods to keep 6-ft, and my favorite, the ones who would stop and stare into a tree to avoid breathing on somebody.
"Mt Osceola Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Edition (2017)
Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Distance: 8.2 miles
Elevation: 2506 feet
Time: N/A
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers
The Hike
It's Martin Luther King Jr. day in 2023, and I'm finally getting over the pneumonia I've been dealing with the past week. I was going to go out for a "reintroduction" hike this morning in the Blue Hills since I've been feeling much better, but it's currently snowing and sticking so I will let that be a problem for later today once the sky is done! Instead, I'm cozied up next to the heater in the dining room and ready to reflect on one of my favorite days in the mountains - my first 4k hike up Mt. Moosilauke! I've been super interested in getting more involved in hiking the whites, and Gen suggested this hike, and I jumped at the chance! We drove up to her family's cottage in Raymond, NH the night before, got a good night's sleep, and made it to the trailhead just after sunrise - which was a beautiful drive!
Of course, by trailhead I mean the parking area down the road from the trailhead. We geared up in our old running shoes, normal set of sweats, and cotopaxi bags and windbreakers, and started our hike up the Ravine Lodge Road. We hiked with a more seasoned hiker for a little bit before he broke off ahead of us. The Ravine Lodge was really neat, but since it was September of 2020 it was very closed. From the Ravine Lodge we could see just where we were going, and it was in the clouds! Thankfully we didn't let that deter us. We followed the sign to "all trails" and crossed the Asquamchumauke River on the "Class of 1982 memorial bridge" - it was happening!
Our goal was to hike up the Gorge Brook Trail to the summit, then over on the Carriage Road/AT to South Peak, down the Carriage Road to the Snapper Trail, and then follow the Gorge Brook Trail/Ravine Lodge Rd back to the car. I don't remember too many small details besides the photos that I have. There were two log bridges on Gorge Brook, one was fantastic and one was flimsy, but we made it through unscathed! As we climbed the sun started poking through the clouds which was an excellent sign of things to come!
Looking back at the elevation profile, I understand why this is on the list of "best intro 4ks" - it never gets too steep, there's a great loop, and THE VIEWS - but more on that later. We hit the "last sure water" at 3300 feet (which meant nothing to us, this was before we had bladders and filters), and continued on! The forest after the Ross McKenny Forest plaque got dense and coniferous, which was absolutely beautiful. We also had our first views! The sky was still hazy, but clearing up by the second.
Neither Gen nor I had been in a true alpine zone before, just Mt. Monadnock, so when the trees started to get smaller we got super excited! The sky was also now a beautiful clear blue! The higher up we climbed the more views were to be had, and my jaw dropped once we made it over treeline - it was like we entered a whole new world! The summit area was filled with green, yellow, orange, and red grasses with an occasional scrubby bush. We practically ran to the summit we were so excited! The views from the top were breathtaking, and the wind was strong but survivable. We put our windbreakers on and found shelter behind some rocks for a snack time, and then we ran into the person we were hiking with from the parking area! He was doing the reverse hike of us today, and he heavily suggested we do the full loop.
We were so lucky to have this summit almost entirely to ourselves. After taking a billion photos, we continued our journey on the Carriage Road/AT over to the South Summit, following cairns and being introduced to the verbiage "fragile alpine vegetation." The grasses were dancing in the wind and the trail magnificently curved around the features of this mountain - just beautiful. We eventually dipped back into the woods on the AT, with the occasional view back to Moosilauke. The cairns were truly impressive looking back.
The trip to south peak was quick and scrubby, with an excellent view back toward the main peak and into the valleys below. Gen was super excited for our next stretch of the trail - the Carriage Road - because she sadly thought it would be a dirt/gravel/paved road. Nope, it was a rocky mess at a pretty consistent slope. Whoops! There were lovely views heading down the carriage road, at least. We then hit the junction with the Snapper Trail - our final stretch of new territory. This was another gentle trail, but it started to feel long as our bodies got tired. This was the first iteration of our strategy to keep the conversation going - Gen tells me all about the TV shows she's been watching.
Soon enough we were back on the Gorge Brook Trail, then the Ravine Lodge, and finally back at the car! And no more than two minutes later the man we’d been passing made it back too! I am so happy this was my first 4k - the trail was forgiving and the views INCREDIBLE. My feet were barking by the end in my ratty sneakers and my knees were on FIRE, but it was all worth it. We finished our day getting lunch at the Pemi Public House, on a reduced menu because restaurants were finally allowed to open back up since COVID started. My knees HURT whenever I tried to walk, but the chicken wings made up for it.
Step-By-Step
Park on Ravine Road, walk to Ravine Lodge.
Start hike on Gorge Brook Trail.
At junction with Snapper Trail, continue on Gorge Brook Trail.
At terminus, summit Mt. Moosilauke!
Turn left to follow Carriage Road (AT).
At next junction, follow signs for South Peak.
Summit south peak, retrace steps.
Back at the same junction, follow signage down Carriage Road.
At next junction, turn left onto Snapper Trail.
At terminus, merge onto Gorge Brook Trail.
Follow Gorge Brook Trail back to Ravine Lodge, walk to car to complete hike.
"Mt. Moosilauke" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
This bald dome, the dominant peak of the region, offers extensive views. An interesting loop with moderate grades from the east side, including a short side trip to unusual views from the South Peak, can be made using the first route above (to begin, see Gorge Brook Trail, p. 287). The second, a popular hike with a steady ascent from the southwest, also includes a side trip to the South Peak (see Glencliff Trail, p. 284). The third, a good, long loop with a wide variety of scenery, involves some road walking (to begin, see Glencliff Trail).
"Moosilauke Carriage Road" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
This former carriage road climbs to the summit of Mt. Moosilauke from Breezy Point, a large clearing with good views, the former site of the Moosilauke Inn. Breezy Point Rd. (sign for Moosilauke Carriage Road) leaves NH 118 2.5 mi. north of its northern jct. with NH 25 (which is 1.0 mi. north of Warren village). Follow the road (paved for 0.5 mi. then gravel) for 1.5 mi. to the left-branching overgrown driveway of the former inn, where parking is available across from a Forest Protection Area sign. In 2016, the road was drivable to this point, though rough near the end; at times in the past it has not been maintained this far, making it necessary to park on the shoulder, lower on the road. Beyond the sign, the road becomes rougher, but you may be able to drive another 0.1 mi. and park to the left just before the trail sign, where mileages begin. Grades are easy to moderate, and the footing is generally good, although there are several wet stretches in the lower section. The trail is intermittently marked with DOC orange-and-black blazes. The upper part is above treeline and greatly exposed to the elements, so it can be dangerous in bad weather. The lower part, up to a barricade at 4.1 mi., receives heavy snowmobile use in winter.
[...]. At 3.0 mi., Snapper Trail enters right.
The next section of road has been widened and improved, eliminating what was formerly a washed-out section with poor footing. Starting at 3.5 mi., you have occasional views back to teh south and east. At 4.1 mi., the old road is blocked by a row of boulders to prevent further vehicular use. At 4.2 mi., Glencliff Trail enters from left; a few steps along Glencliff Trail, a spur trail leads left 0.2 mi. (80-ft ascent) to South Peak, a fine viewpoint. The old road, now part of the AT, continues along the ridge, with a narrow fringe of trees on each side, passing a short side path right to a viewpoint over the Gorge Brook Ravine. At 4.9 mi., the old road reaches treeline and, marked by cairns and low rock walls, ascends northeast along the windswept ridge to the summit. Descending from the summit, the trail leads briefly west then southwest down the broad, open ridge. In this section, hikers are urged to stay on the well-defined footway to avoid trampling fragile alpine vegetation.
"Gorge Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
"Snapper Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 30th Ed. (2017)
Mt. Pemigewasset (White Mountain National Forest)