Monday, June 27, 2022

St. Sauveur & Flying Mountains (Acadia National Park)

St. Sauveur & Flying Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Hike Type: Figure 8-ish Loop
Distance: 3.5 miles
Elevation: 968 feet
Time: 2 hours
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents; Summit Beer Society


The Hike
Hike #3 of the day! I was debating whether or not to do this one since I was tired and had a whole bonus day, but I figured I'd drive over and see how I felt. When I got there, I was immediately turned off by the cars spilling out onto the road, but I still (somehow) convinced myself to do it, and I'm glad that I did! The skies were moody, wind was blowing, and it was showtime!


From the parking lot there are two trailheads - one for Flying Mountain Trail and one for Valley Cove Trail fire road (which was unlabeled for what I could tell). I initially took a dozen steps up the Flying Mountain Trail by mistake, realized, and then started the hike I had actually planned. There were these gorgeous orange flowers that looked like dandelions if they were dipped in tang. I was then immediately irritated by the sheer volume of people coming down the Valley Cove Trail. Thankfully, I was immediately sent back to my voluntary solitary confinement when I turned off onto the Valley Peak Trail. Only one other person was heading up the steep trail to Valley Peak, which got the blood pumping but was a short trail. Just after a slightly obstructed (still beautiful) view, the trail hits a junction with one direction going left to St. Sauveur Mountain and one right to Valley Peak and the remainder of the Valley Peak Trail - I took the trail on the left to ultimately make a loop.


The trail slowly gained elevation to the summit of St. Sauveur Mountain, which was a wooded peak. At this point the weather was escalated, but stable, so I pulled over for a classic sit, snack, and summit beverage (this time, a nip of Pink Whitney I got as a gift on the last day of school). The weather was so dreadfully humid that I was an advanced level of sweaty, which is a lot coming from me. After St. Sauveur, I continued the loop and saw some incredible views of the Somes Sound from the Valley Peak Trail. Rain started to spit on and off, so I picked up the pace on this section. I would definitely like to revisit this trail someday to really spend time to take in the views - I imagine the sunrise here would be gorgeous.


The trail ends just after the sign for Valley Peak (another one that does not count towards the hiking list), and then I retraced my steps down the steep trail back to the Valley Cove Trail fire road. I hiked the rest of the fire road, which was relatively featureless minus a few obstructed views of Valley peak, but filled with people. The trail ends at the Somes Sound where there is access to the shoreline where many families were playing. I continued onto the Flying Mountain Trail that had a moderate-easy ascent to the first view, and then meandered over the ridge to the main view from the summit. The view provided a beautiful vista of the Somes Sound and surrounding communities - but the rain was again starting to spit so I took the hint and started to wrap up. 


The hike back down was gentle and scenic, and due to the weather there were significantly less people climbing up. The spitting rain turned into a drizzle once I hit the parking lot, and became a full rain by the time I made it back to my car - great timing! This was a beautiful hike, but the lower half around Flying Mountain was dreadfully popular with families (understandably), so I probably would not do it again outside of sunrise hour. This put a cap on my hiking day, but I still had a few hours until check-in at the motel, so I decided to take the hour-long drive to Schoodic Point. The ocean was in a mood and the waves were crashing - it was perfect! I parked the car, stared into the void for a while, cleaned my car from the inside, and got outside to walk around (safely, of course) when there was a break in the rain. There was one family that went down towards the water - I had to look away I was so stressed! My day ended with an issue with Hotels.com - they never sent my confirmation to the motel. Thankfully, the motel owner was lovely and got me space. I had one room for the first night, and then a different room for nights two and three. It wasn't perfect, but so kind of her to make it work. Off to bed I went!


Step-By-Step
  • Park at Flying Mountain Trailhead.
  • Start hike on Valley Cove Trail fire road.
  • Turn left onto Valley Peak Trail.
  • At next junction, turn left onto St. Sauveur Mountain Trail.
  • At next junction, continue on St. Sauveur Mountain Trail to summit St. S Mountain.
  • Turn around back to the previous junction, turn left onto Valley Peak Trail.
  • Hike back to original junction with St. Sauveur Mountain Trail and descend via Valley Peak Trail.
  • Turn left back onto Valley Cove Trail fire road.
  • At Somes Sound, turn right onto Flying Mountain Trail.
  • Hike Flying Mountain Trail back to parking area.

Trail Descriptions from Maine Mountain Guide
Valley Cove Trail
        "Valley Cove Trail starts on the shore of Somes Sound at Valley Cove at the end of the Valley Cove fire road, 0.5 mi. from the Flying Mtn. trailhead parking area on Fernald Point Rd. From the fire road, Valley Cove Trail leads left, while Flying Mtn. Trail goes right. Valley Cove Trail follows the shoreline under the ledge walls of Eagle Cliff high above, traversing a rugged rock slide via a long series of rock staircases. The trail ends at the jct. of Acadia Mountain. Trail and Valley Peak Trail in 1.1 mi., a short distance south of the Man O'War Brook fire road."

Valley Peak Trail
        "This trail leaves the west side of the Valley Cove fire road (no vehicle access) a short distance north of the Flying Mtn. trailhead parking area on Fernald Point Rd. The trail rises steeply northwest through shady woods over Valley Peak (the south shoulder of St. Sauveur Mtn.). At 0.4 mi., St. Sauveur Trail departs left. Stay right on Valley Peak Trail to skirt the top of Eagle Cliff, with outstanding views of Valley Cove below and the mountains east of Somes Sound. At 0.8 mi., a spur path on the left leads to the summit of St. Sauveur Mtn. Valley Peak Trail continues straight, steeply descending the northeast shoulder of the mountain to end at a jct. with Acadia Mtn. Trail and Valley Cove Trail near Man O'War Brook and the east end of the Man O'War fire road at 1.5 mi."

St. Sauveur Mountain Trail
        "This trail offers an easy route to the summit of St. Sauveur Mtn. from the northwest. Parking for this trail is the same as for Acadia Mtn. Trail"
        "Start 0.1 mi. up the Acadia Mtn. Trail and go right at the fork. St. Sauveur Mtn. Trail runs south through a softwood forest and over open slopes, rising continually to a jct. at 0.9 mi., where Ledge Trail enters on the right. The summit of St. Sauveur Mtn. is at 1.1 mi. St. Sauveur Mtn. Trail continues past the summit to a jct. Here, a spur to Valley Peak Trail leaves left, while St. Sauveur Mtn. Trail continues right, descending the south ridge of the mountain. At 1.5 mi., the trail ends at its jct. with the lower end of Valley Peak Trail. Ahead, it is 0.4 mi. to the Valley Cove fire road via Valley Peak Trail. At the fire road, turn right to reach the Flying Mtn. trailhead parking lot at Fernald Point Rd."

St. Sauveur Mountain
        "This mountain overlooking Valley Cove on Somes Sound can be climbed from ME 102 in the west or from Fernald Cove Rd. in the south. The 500-ft. Eagle Cliff, home to nesting peregrine falcons, forms the precipitous east face of the peak."

Flying Mountain Trail
        "From the jct. of ME 102 and ME 3/198 in Somesville, drive south on Me 102 for 5.4 mi. to Fernald Point Rd. in Southwest Harbor. Turn left (west) on Fernald Point Rd. and drive 0.9 mi. to the trailhead parking lot on the left. This scenic trail leaves the parking area on Fernald Point Rd. in Southwest Harbor. The trail rises quickly through spruce woods, reaching ridgeline of the mountain north before descending to the shore of Valley Cove on Somes Sound. The trail follows the cove to the left to end at the jct. of Valley cove Trail and the Valley Cove fire road at 0.9 mi. For an easy return to the parking area, follow the fire road south for 0.5 mi."

Flying Mountain
        "A short climb to the open summit of Flying Mtn. offers a fine panorama of Somes Sound, Southwest Harbor, and the islands to the south, including the Cranberry Isles and Greening, Sutton, Baker, and Bear islands."

Mansell & Bernard Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Mansell & Bernard Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Hike Type: Loop
Distance: 4.4 miles
Elevation: 1280 feet
Time: 2 hours, 55 minutes
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents; Summit Beer Society


The Hike
This was a unique drive for Acadia National Park, as the trailhead was in the woods after a windy drive on dirt roads. It was reminiscent of some of the drives to the whites, but these roads were lovely to drive on. I parked at the Mill Field parking (there was no field, which was fascinating to me), did my best to take a leave-no-trace-number-two in the woods, and suited up for the hike.


I started with a dirt road road walk to the reservoir, and then joined the Gilley Trail where I saw my first snake of the trip! It was a young garter snake that was very content with just chilling on the trail, so I gently stepped around and went about my day. The Gilley Trail terminates at Gilley Field, another fieldless field, which is the same fieldless field where the Mansell Mountain Trail begins. 


The Mansell Mountain Trail climbs first through the woods with a few steeper sections, but nothing every getting too bad. The trail then breaks out into the open with more scrubby slabby hiking and another snake! This snake was even more unbothered by me, which I truly prefer. The trail reaches a junction with the Razorback Trail, which is where the loop will continue later on. At the moment, I continued on the Mansell Mountain Trail to a lovely lookout and then the wooded summit. I turned around and headed back to the previous junction to continue the hike.


The Razorback Trail steeply descends towards the Great Notch with an open view towards Bernard Mountain and surrounding waters. At the Great Notch, the Bernard Mountain Trail begins at a trail register (the first I've seen in Acadia) and climbs up a rugged trail. I really loved the trails in this area - they were so different from the popular trails that I've already been on. None of these trails were manicured with precise stonework, which was actually a nice break. The clouds began to roll in the closer I encorached upon the summit, but I was still able to get a view from the outlook just before Knight Nubble (a peak with a sign that is not on the Acadia Ascents list). 


The Bernard Mountain Trail drops into Little Notch from Knight Nubble, and then makes the final climb to Bernard Mountain. There is a great overlook area with a couple benches and another trail register (the last one I saw in Acadia), but the clouds were fully present at this point, so I did not stick around. The summit is just past this overlook, and I stopped a little further down trail to enjoy my sit, snack, and summit beverage. 


The final stretch of this hike was a descent down the rest of the Bernard Mountain Trail. The trail started as a gorgeous meander through the woods with moss in abundance and started its main descent, which was never too steep but consistent enough to alert my knees. Thankfully we all pulled through and made it back to the car! This was such a great hike and I only saw one other person the whole time.

Step-By-Step
  • Park at Mill Field.
  • Walk along road, turn left onto Reservoir Rd.
  • At the reservoir, turn right onto Gilley Trail.
  • Hike Gilley Trail to Gilley Field.
  • Turn left onto Mansell Mountain Trail, hike to summit.
  • At summit, turn around and hike to jct. with Razorback Trail.
  • Turn right to descend into Great Notch via Razorback Trail.
  • At Great Notch, enter Bernard Mountain Trail, climb to Bernard Mountain and descend back to Mill Field parking.

Trail Descriptions from Maine Mountain Guide
Western Mountain (Bernard and Mansell)
        "Western Mtn. comprises two main peaks: Bernard Mtn. to the west and Mansell Mtn. to the east. Both summits are mostly wooded, but there are occasional view windows Trails in this area start from three primary trailheads: at the pumping station at the south end of Long Pond Road, at Mill Field, and at Gilley Field."
        "To reach the pumping station, follow Seal Cove Rd., west from ME 102 in Southwest Harbor. At 0.6 mi., take the first right (toward the landfill) onto Long Pond Rd. and follow it until it ends at the pumping station at 1.8 mi. To reach Mill Field and Filley Field, follow Seal Cove Rd. west from ME 102 in Southwest Harbor. The pavement ends at the ANP boundary at 3.9 mi. Take a right off Seal Cove Rd at 4.6 mi. (no sign). Reset odometer. On the dirt access road, reach the jct. with Western Mtn. Rd. at 0.4 mi. (To the left, it is 1.2 mi. to the West Ledge Trail trailhead.) Turn right on Western Mtn. Rd. and follow it to the next jct. at 1.2 mi. To reach Mill Field, turn left here and drive 0.2 mi. to the end of the road and the trailhead parking for Sluiceway Trail and Bernard Mtn. Trail. To reach Gilley Field, turn right here and drive 0.1 mi. to the end of the road and the trailhead parking area for Gilley Trail, Mansell Mtn. Trail, and Cold Brook Trail."

Gilley Trail
        "Thist trail starts at the Gilley Field parking area at the eastern end of Western Mtn. Rd. It provides access to mansell Mtn. and Bernard Mtn. via Razorback Trail, Great Notch Trail, and Sluiceway Trail. Gilley trail starts next to Mansell Mtn. Trail, but instead of climbing the peak, it follows easy grades to the west, passing Razorback Trail at 0.1 mi., then turning north and climbing moderately to its end at the jct. of Great Notch Trail and Sluiceway Trail at 0.6 mi. A short side trail halfway along on the left leads 100 yd. to the Reservoir, a small dammed pond in a scenic glen at the end of a short spur of Western Mtn. Rd."

Mansell Mountain Trail
        "This trail leaves from Gilley Field and offers a nice hike up the south slope of Mansell Mtn. The trail climbs gradually from the trailhead to ledges, where there are views of Southwest Harbor, Beech mtn. Long Pond, and Northeast Harbor. At 0.8 mi., a short but steep 0.1-mi. spur from Razorback Trail enters from the left. From this jct., Mansell Mtn. Trail climbs the final 0.1 mi. to the wooded summit of Mansell Mtn. to meet Perpendicular Trail."

Razorback Trail
        "Razorback Trail diverges right from Gilley Trail at a point 0.1 mi. from the Gilley Field parking area at the east end of Western Mtn. Rd. This trail climbs moderately up the west side of Mansell Mtn., offering views of Great Notch and Bernard Mtn. The upper portion of Razorback Trail climbs a narrow ridge of extensive open ledges (the Razorback) to reach a jct. between the summit of Mansell Mtn. and Great Notch at 0.8 mi. To the right, a spur climb steeply 0.1 mi. to Mansell Mtn. trail, which climbs an additional 0.1 mi. to the top of Mansell Mtn. Continue left on Razorback Trail, which leads down to Great Notch and the jct. with Great Notch Trail in 0.2 mi."

Bernard Mountain Trail
        "This trail also starts at Mill Field on Western Mtn. Rd. It makes a wide and gradual arc west to the south ridge of Bernard Mtn., then swings north to West Ledge Trail at 1.0 mi. Here, Bernard mtn. Trail turns right, ascending easily north over several wooded knobs to the summit of Bernard Mtn. at 1.5 mi. Iron posts mark an old fire tower site; just ahead is the summit sign. A short distance beyond, reach an overlook to the left and a register box. Ahead, the trail descends steeply to Little Notch and the jct. with Sluiceway Trail at 1.7 mi. Beyond the jct., Bernard Mtn. trail continues east, climbing over the low but rugged Knight Nubble (nice view to Southwest Harbor and the islands to the south) before dropping into a wet and mossy notch. Climbing out, the trail then drops steeply into Great Notch at 2.2 mi., where there is a bench and register box. Here, Great Notch trail leads north to Long Pond Fire Rd. and south towards Gilley Field, while Razorback Trail leads east to Mansell Mtn. in 0.6 mi."

Beech Mountain (Acadia National Park)

Beech Mountain (Acadia National Park)

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Distance: 1.3 miles
Elevation: 351 feet
Time: 46 minutes
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents


The Hike
After a.... restful(?)... night of sleep in my CRV, my 4:00am alarm went off and I headed to Beech Mountain! There was a bathroom at the trailhead which had me very excited for obvious reasons, but it was just two nasty porta potties and my body was not ready for it's morning business. I didn't intend to make this an official sunrise hike, since I'm scared of the dark, but I was given a gift at the summit - more on that in a minute.


The hike starts on the Beech Mountain Loop Trail, which is technically a lollipop loop with a short stem. The stem is into the woods out of the corner of the parking lot and quickly divides to start the actual lollipop. I took the left fork to hike the loop clockwise, but it really could have been done in either direction. I think the clockwise loop gets the steeper sections over early, but nothing on this hike was too steep (or long for that matter). The trail quickly breaks out of the woods and enters a scrubby slabby area, like most hikes in Acadia. Before I knew it I was at the summit and fire tower! 


Right as I was arriving the sun was breaking above Norumbega Mountain and it was absolutely incredible. The firey red-oranges of the sunrise paired with the smoky fog that collected between the mountains was something that people buy paintings of. It was one of those moments where I was like "okay I guess I still like hiking," all while forgetting to blink while staring directly into the sun. The firetower cabin and upper deck was closed, but I was able to climb up to the lower landing to get a few more photos. The fog was quickly burning off, which added to the showcase of the morning. The only reason I left was because I had two more hikes to complete this day and I knew it was going to rain in the afternoon, but I could have stayed forever!


The return trip was as smooth as the previous section. There is a short descent and then the views open up towards Mansell and Bernard Mountains, which were being magnificently illuminated by the sunrise. I took way too many photos of the exact same view, and then started the main part of the descent. The trail dips back into the woods for a bit longer than the first half, and before I knew it I was back at the stem of the lollipop and back to the car. What an amazing start to the day!


Step-By-Step
  • Park a Beech Mountain Trailhead at the end of Beech Hill Rd.
  • Start hike on Beech Mountain Loop Trail, turn left at fork.
  • Continue hike to summit, then follow signs to continue on Beech Mountain Loop Trail.
  • Rejoin the main trail at the original fork and return to car.

Trail Descriptions from Maine Mountain Guide
Beech Mountain Loop Trail
        "This trail leaves the northwest side of Beech Mtn. parking area to the left of the toilet. The trail forks in 100 yd. Turn left here to hike the loop clockwise. The trail ascends over ledges through semi-open woods to reach a jct. with Beech Mtn. South Ridge Trail immediately below the summit fire tower. Scramble 20 ft. to the base of the tower for fine views east. From this jct., hike downhill to the right to the jct. with Beech West Ridge Trail, which enters on the left. Continue right on Beech Mtn. Loop Trail, and quickly reach open ledges and extraordinary views over Long Pond to Mansell Mtn. and Bernard Mtn. Descend over ledges, then enter the woods below. Continue to descend moderately, then swing east on a contour to close the loop near the parking area at the end of Beech Hill Rd."

Beech Mountain
        "This mountain rises steeply between Echo Lake and Long Pond. Its summit, adorned by the only fire tower on Mt. Desert Island, can be reached either from the Beech Mtn. parking area, at the end of Beech Hill Rd. in the notch between Beech Cliff and Beech Mtn., from Echo Lake, or from the pumping station area at the south end of Long Pond. The iron tower was erected in 1962, replacing the original wooden structure. The tower is often open to visitors on summer weekends."
        "Beech Cliff and Canada Cliff, on the east side of the mountain overlooking Echo Lake, can be reached by short trails from the Beech Mtn. parking area or from the Echo Lake parking area (follow a short access road from ME 198 in Southwest Harbor. At 0.6 mi., turn right onto Long Pond Rd., and follow the road to its end at the pumping station at 1.8 mi. Parking is limited."

Sunday, June 26, 2022

Dorr & Cadillac Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Dorr & Cadillac Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Hike Type: Loop
Distance: 5.4 miles
Elevation: 1683 feet
Time: 3 hours, 37 minutes
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents; Wicked Wild 25; Summit Beer Society


The Hike
The original plan was to combine this hike with Huguenot Head and Champlain Mountain, but thankfully I came to my senses (and now had some extra time with the bonus day) and split them up into two seperate hikes. I parked at the trailhead for the Ladder Trail up Dorr Mountain, crossed a lovely stream and the Kane Path, and officially began my hike! I chose to do the Dorr Ladder Trail for a few reasons: I loved the Beehive Trail last year, so I figured a trail with the word "ladder" would be just as fun (wrong), it is on the "Wicked Wild 25" hiking list (a list similar to NH's Terrifying 25, but for Maine), and I have masochistic tendencies. A better name for the Ladder Trail would be the "Stairs Trail" because this trail was 95% stone stairs that were just a little too high and 5% ladders - one ladder was a literal ladder loosely bolted into the rockface that was sketchy, and the other ladder was the classic iron rungs like those on the Beehive. It took me a long time to get up this trail, but thankfully there were occasional views. I also passed a few people who were coming down this way which seemed quite adventurous!


When the Ladder Trail terminates it joins the Schiff Path, which turns into slab walking instead of stairs. Still hurts, just different kind of hurt. The views began quickly, though, of Huguenot Head, Champlain Mountain, and Frenchman Bay, which were beautiful. The trail junction to reach the official summit gives a glimpse of Cadillac Mountain's grandeur, which is the next challenge. The Dorr Mountain summit had lovely views along it's long ridge, and was insanely windy. I had a beef stick to celebrate, and continued on!


The Dorr Cadillac Connector trail was a steep drop into the col between Dorr and Cadillac, which continued to grow bigger the closer I got. The Connector terminates at Gorge Path, which then goes right up Cadillac. The views from Gorge Path were unique and made me feel like I was deep in the wilderness, which was very cool for a small, busy national park. Dorr Mountain continued to get smaller and smaller as the views grew larger and larger. I knew I was getting close when I could see over the neighboring mountains, and when I could hear the hubbub of the crowds atop Cadillac. 


The views from Cadillac were magnificent - it provided the feeling of being on top of the world - but the crowds were a massive distraction. I did my best to get over it! I took in some views, found the official summit marker just off of the Cadillac South Ridge Trail, and made my way down the same trail to hopefully find some solitude. The Cadillac South Ridge Trail starts off winding through scrubby woods, but then opens up to truly breathtaking views in almost all directions. I found a nice rock, took a long sit, ate a lovely snack, and had my first summit drink of the trip! I could have stayed there forever.


The entire hike along the Cadillac South Ridge Trail was open, following cairns and occasional blazes. The trail then dips down to an overgrown pond called the Featherbed, and then continues for even longer. At the Featherbed, I turned onto the Canon Brook Trail to truly start my return trip. The Canon Brook Trail was steep but scenic. My knees definitely felt the steepness, but it had its redeeming qualities. The trail follows the brook, sometimes a little too closely over slabs. I wouldn't want to hike it while wet, but I would soon learn that applies to most trails in the park. It felt that it went on forever, but that was mostly my legs talking. The bottom of the trail runs through nice, gently, flat forest, and eventually turns into the Kane Path which travels along a few ponds, and eventually right back to the trailhead!



This hike was magnificent and brutal, and paired with the McFarland/Youngs hike, made for an excellent start to my vacation. I finished the day driving the park loop road while the sun was setting, and then set up camp at the Walmart parking lot with about 20 of my closest friends in their respective vehicles. My only complaint with my lodging was that my car is just a few inches too short for me, and is slightly angled so I was always sliding down to my trunk. 

Step-By-Step
  • Park at Ladder Trail Trailhead (labeled "Dorr Mountain Trailhead" on Google Maps).
  • Enter woods onto the Ladder Trail, cross Kane Path, and hike the Ladder Trail.
  • At end of Ladder Trail, turn left onto Schiff Path.
  • Hike Schiff Path to terminus/jct. with Dorr South Ridge Trail, Dorr North Ridge Trail, and Cadillac-Door Connector. Turn left onto Dorr South Ridge Trail.
  • Short walk to Dorr Summit on Dorr South Ridge Trail, turn around back to jct.
  • Back at jct., turn left onto Cadillac-Dorr Connector.
  • At the jct. with Gorge Path and A. Murrary Young Path, continue straight to ascend Cadillac via Gorge Path.
  • Summit Cadillac Mountain, walk west to trailhead for Cadillac South Ridge Trail.
  • Find official summit on Cadillac South Ridge Trail and hike to jct. with Canon Brook Trail at the Featherbed.
  • At jct., turn left onto Canon Brook Trail.
  • Hike to terminus, continue on Kane Path.
  • At jct. with Ladder Trail, turn right to return to parking lot.

Trail Descriptions from Maine Mountain Guide
Ladder Trail
        "This trail leaves from ME 3 just south of the Tarn and 0.5 mi. south of the Tarn trailhead parking lot. Parking for Ladder Trail is along the west (Dorr Mtn.) side of ME 3. From ME 3, the trail soon crosses Kane Path, then makes a steady ascent to reach Schiff Path at 0.6 mi. The trail is steep, climbing some 1,200 stone steps and over several sets of iron ladders. At the end of Schiff Path on the summit ridge, turn left (south) to reach the top of Dorr Mtn. in 100 yd."

Schiff Path
        "This trail begins part way up the east slope of Dorr Mtn. at the jct. of Emery Path and Kurt Diederich's Climb, 0.5 mi. above Sieur de Months Spring and 0.6 mi. above the north end of the Tarn. Schiff Path traverses above the steep east face of the mountain, ascending moderately, to reach a jct. with Ladder Trail. Here, Schiff Path makes a sharp right and climbs steeply, then more moderately, to meet Dorr North Ridge Trail at 1.2 mi. Follow Dorr North Ridge Trail south for 0.1 mi. to the summit of Dorr Mtn."

Dorr Mountain
        "This mountain, named for the founding father of ANP, George B. Dorr, lies immediately west of Sieur de Monts Spring and the Tarn. Two routes up the mountain originate from Sieur de Monts Spring, while two more trails begin from the Tarn on ME 3. Trails also ascend from the north and south over long ridges, and another trail rises from the gorge east of Cadillac Mtn. The east slope of Dorr Mtn. is particularly steep, and views from the high ridgeline on Dorr are superb. Ten trails form an extensive network for exploring this mountain from all sides."

Cadillac-Dorr Connector
        "This short trail (only 0.2 mi.) starts just north of the summit of Dorr Mtn. and runs east to west, connecting Dorr North Ridge Trail with Gorge Path at its jct. with A Murray Young Path in the high, narrow valley between Cadillac Mtn. and Dorr Mtn."

Gorge Path
        "This trail ascends the scenic gorge between Cadillac Mtn. and Dorr Mtn. and provides good access to both peaks. The trailhead is on Park Loop Rd., 0.9 mi. east of where it becomes a one-way. The trail rises moderately up the gorge, passing Hemlock Trail at 0.4 mi. Ascending a narrow valley next to a brook much of the time, Gorge Path finally reaches a jct. with Cadillac-Dorr Connector and A. Murray Young Path at 1.4 mi. in the deep notch between the two mountains. At this point, Gorge Path turns right (west) and climbs steeply to the summit of Cadillac mtn., reaching it at 1.8 mi."

Cadillac Mountain
        "The highest point on Mt. Desert Island, this mountain is also the highest on the eastern seaboard of the Atlantic Ocean between Newfoundland and Brazil. An automobile road, the Cadillac Mtn. Rd., leads 3.5 mi. to the summit, where there is a parking area, a paved 0.4-mi. walking trail with interpretive signs, a small gift shop, and restrooms. The open expanse offers commanding views in all directions. Accessibility by car makes this rocky summit the busiest in ANP. Six traverse the mountain's slopes."

Cadillac South Ridge Trail (Excerpt)
        "[...]. After leaving the woods, the trail rises gently over open ledges before dropping down to meet Canon Brook Trail at the Featherbed at 2.0 mi. Continuing a long climb of the broad south ridge, mostly in the open, Cadillac South Ridge Trail reaches a jct. with Cadillac West Face Trail on the left at 2.7 mi. Ahead, the trail passes close to a switchback in the Cadillac Mtn. Rd. near Blue Hill Overlook and then ends at the Cadillac Mtn. summit parking area, adjacent to the gift shop and restrooms. The true summit of Cadillac, often overlooked, is 100 yd. before this - a large flat rock with USGS marker on its surface 30 ft. west of the trail."

Canon Brook Trail (Excerpt)
        "The trail then swings away from the brook, passes a beaver pond, and ascends to a small wetland area known as the Featherbed. Here, it intersects Cadillac South Ridge Trail, which leads 2.0 mi. south to ME 3 near Blackwoods CG, and 1.2 mi. north to the summit of Cadillac Mtn. [...]."
        "This trail begins on ME 3, 0.8 mi. south of the Tarn trailhead parking area. There is parking in a paved lot on the east side of ME 3 and in a gravel area along the west side of ME 3. Canon Brook Trail leaves from the south end of the gravel lot. It descends west to cross a beaver flowage, then intersects Kane Path at 0.2 mi. Turn left (south) at the jct. and follow the beaver flowage down through the valley. After a brief, sharp rise, the trail reaches a jct. with Dorr South Ridge Trail, which diverges right at 0.9 mi. Canon Brook Trail then descends to a jct. with A Murray Young Path, which goes right at 1.1 mi. Here, Canon Brook Trail crosses a branch of Otter Creek and climbs gently along the north side of Canon Brook before crossing the brook and then climbing steeply past the cascades on the upper part."

Kane Path
        "This trail starts at the north end of the Tarm, 0.1 mi. west of the parking area on ME 3 via Beachcroft Path. Kane Path leads south to Canon Brook Trail and links the Sieur de Monts Spring area to the southern trails of Dorr Mtn. and Cadillac Mtn. At its start, Kane Path runs south over a talus slope directly along the west side of the Tarn. After reaching the south end of the pond, the pat continues past Ladder Trail at 0.5 mi. to end at Canon Brook Trail at 0.8 mi. Follow Canon Brook Trail south and then west to reach Dorr South Ridge Trail and A. Murray Young Path."

McFarland & Youngs Mountains (Acadia National Park)

McFarland & Youngs Mountains (Acadia National Park)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 3.0 miles
Elevation: 745 feet
Time: 1 hour, 31 minutes
Hiking Challenges: Acadia Ascents


The Hike
After spending a few hours shopping and packing for my second annual solo Acadia trip, I found myself so excited to already be there so I left a day early! I had originally planned for four days and three nights at the Belle Isle Motel, but now I was adding an extra day and night at the scenic Ellsworth Walmart parking lot, which would afford me the time to spread out some of my hikes. My goal for this trip was to finish the "Acadia Ascents" hiking list - a challenge to hike the original 26 peaks of Acadia National Park. I chose to do these two mountains first because I dreaded them the most. I've never hiked mountains without any official trails, so I was very nervous about this one and prepared to be miserable for three miles. Thankfully I was quickly proven wrong! I parked at park headquarters, which already felt wrong, made eyes at a turkey, and started my hike! It started with a short road walk, hop across a "do not block" gate, and a dip into the woods. The "trailhead" wasn't broadcasting itself, but once I noticed it it made sense. The trail starts in the woods for just a second before opening up to a beautiful area where the whole climb is.
 

I know McFarland Mountain used to be a ski area, maybe this is an old ski run? Not sure. The footpath was always clear heading up the mountain with grasses tickling my ankles (and thankfully no ticks). The climb was steady and never too steep, but got my sweat pouring (which truly doesn't take much). The views quickly start on this climb with Sargent taking the primary spotlight, but other peaks also pop in to say hello. The main climb turns into a scrubby, lichen-y ridge walk with occasional views on the right. It was so peaceful being up there all by myself! I believe the summit was marked with a cairn, and if not, I will still choose to believe it was! Soon after the "summit cairn," the trail starts to steeply descend into the col between McFarland and Youngs.
 

The col is less defined than the previous section of trail, but still generally straightforward. The forest here is tall and open, compared to the scrubby forest up on the ridge. The trail is only in the col for a short moment and then begins to steeply climb up Youngs. This climb was shorter and led to a similar, gorgeous scrubby ridge area. After some more ridge walking the trees open up to a beautiful view toward Frenchman Bay. I took some time here to enjoy the view, enjoy the solitude (which I knew was not going to last once I got to the more popular peaks), and wring out my soaked shirt. 
 

The return trip went smoothly and was very uneventful. There is a herd path down the side of Youngs to turn this hike into a loop, but I enjoyed the hike in so much I turned right around and retraced my steps. I did lose the trail once on the ridge of Youngs and once coming down McFarland, but it was easy to retrace my steps and get back on path. This hike was such a highlight just because it was such a lovely surprise! I will definitely be back. I later learned, while seeking attention by making a facebook post in the "Acadia National Park Hiking" group and getting the post declined, that the park has asked the group to not allow posts highlight unmaintained trails - visitors are welcome to hike them, but the park does not want them publicized. I always wonder what causes a park to abandon trails.


Step-By-Step
  • Park at Acadia National Park Headquarters (567 Eagle Lake Rd, Bar Harbor, ME 04609).
  • Walk back to Eagle Lake Rd., cross road and turn left.
  • After guardrail, turn right onto gated gravel road.
  • Soon after starting the walk on the gravel road, turn into woods on herd path, follow the whole time, paying extra attention on the return trip.

Monday, June 20, 2022

North Moat Mountain (White Mountain National Forest)

North Moat Mountain

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop
Distance: 10.4 miles
Elevation: 2848 feet
Time: 6 hours, 22 minutes
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge; 52 With a View


The Hike

The original plan was to hike Webster-Jackson-Pierce-Eisenhower today with Gen, but COVID laid its nasty paws on her so I was soloing today! I dug through the 52WAV list, triangulated with the weather forecast, and landed on the moats! It had been winter in the white the previous two days, but this day was going to be back to chilly mornings but reasonable afternoons, and not a cloud in the sky! I woke up at 2:00am, questioned my sanity, and made it to the Moat Mountain trailhead (Diana's Baths parking area) just after 5:00am (with a couple stops, of course). I was the only soul in sight, which stayed pretty constant throughout the day until I made it back to the baths. 



I started the hike on the Moat Mountain trail along an appropriately described "tourist path" that led to Diana's Baths, a beautiful series of pools and cascades. From there, the trail thins out a little bit and feels more like you're in the woods versus you're hiking with everyone and their family to take swim. A little ways down, the Red Ridge Trail starts opposite Lucy Brook, which is where the loop will end. I continued along the Moat Mountain Trail, which closely paralleled Lucy Brook, for a while until the trail eventually crosses Lucy Brook. Water levels were very manageable this day. The junction with the Attitash Trail starts the big climb - so naturally I took a nice break to avoid the inevitable. Climbing the Moat Mountain Trail from the Attitash Junction to the summit was steadily steep the whole time. I can see how it could be sketchy if wet, but there were no major obstacles other than relentless climbing.

 


The trail started steeply in the woods, then broke out into steep ledgy areas, then back into the woods steeply, then more ledges (steeply), and so on. There were some views starting to poke through the further up, and there is a wide ledge that offers the first really excellent view of the hike, with Mt. Kearsarge to the right and the presidentials to the left. (Mt. Kearsarge became a friend on this hike, always right there when I needed something to look at). After a nice break here, I continued the steep journey when I heard an all-too-familiar sound... an angry grouse. This one was extra angry, though. It did it classic wing flapping that sounds like a herd of buffalo stampeding down the trail, then it started to yell at me endlessly, flew towards the trail, ran towards me, kept yelling, I yelled back, it kept yelling and ran back into the woods, and then paralleled me for about 50 feet switching between yelling and flapping its wings. This mountain chicken was not a friend. That being said, it did give me a nice adrenaline boost to keep going.

 


The trail eventually levels out, described as a shoulder, and I had the audacity to think I was almost done. Nope. Through the trees, I saw the true summit, straight up in the air. I swore a few times, and now finally finished the climb. The view was truly magnificent. 360 degrees, skies clear as day. "New Hampshire's 52 With a View: A Hiker's Guide" states that 34 4000-footers are in view from this peak, and countless other mountains. I was in complete awe, and could have happily spent the whole day there. The only thing that got me moving was the bugs - they have been dormant for most of the hike, but were starting to wake up. Nothing was biting, but they were definitely finding me. The pollinators were also zooming all around, which was enough to get me to continue on. At this point, I was unsure if I was going to continue to South/Middle Moats. I definitely wanted to, but my body was definitely feeling tired at this point. I decided it would be a gametime decision at the next junction.

 



The hike down from North Moat was STEEP, shockingly. There were at least 3 decent scrambles, with one exceptionally tricky. None were dangerous, but definitely sketchy. There was a short climb back up to the formerly named Middle Moat, and unofficially named Red Ridge Peak, where the Red Ridge Trail junction laid. Right past the junction there is a beautiful open area with large boulders that can be easily climbed. From there, I saw the ridge leading to South Moat and confidently decided that I would venture over there another day. The cold weather in the morning, paired with a steep climb hurt my lungs pretty decently, something that happens all the time in the colder months. I usually have a buff with me to wear to help warm up the air when I'm huffing and puffing, but it's been summer in Boston, so I haven't needed it. Whoops!

 


Descending the Red Ridge Trail is incredible. Endless views the whole upper half, including North Moat, the mountain that figuratively and literally just took my breath away. The ridge reminded me of the Pumpelly Trail on Mt. Monadnock, but more like Mars than the moon, if that makes any sense. The trail wasn't necessarily easy to follow, but there is usually a cairn or blaze within eyeshot if you do some looking. It wasn't until the lower part of this trail that I saw my first few humans of the day, which I was more than okay with. 

 


The trail eventually dips back into the woods and bypasses a former sketchy section along an "eroded trap dike." This section was purely loose rock, and looked like it dropped off to the center of the earth (which is admittedly a little dramatic, it was more like 20-30 feet). The bypass stays on the mountainside for a little longer and then descends via dirt path, which I was much happier with. There was a tiny "sleeping" mouse right in the middle of the trail in this area (it was most likely dead, sad) - it was cute nonetheless! The trail crosses Moat Brook and then calms down for the remainder of the hike. Small ups and downs and a few junctions, but generally featureless. It looks like this section can get wet and swampy based on the rock placements on the trail, but thankfully for me it's been a dry spring. With the bugs starting to really come out, I picked up my pace and made it back to Diana's Baths in no time.

 


The final stretch of the hike was the crankiest. Hundreds of people flocking to the baths, all walking shoulder to shoulder and just a little too slowly. There was a line for the bathroom, and there were people aggressively waiting for me to free up a parking spot. My usual post hike routine is stretch at the car, slowly take off shoes and socks, wipe my body down with baby wipes, change my shirt, change my shorts (if there's a bathroom WITHOUT a line or a quiet parking lot), stare into the void, check my stats, eat, hydrate, and the works. That was not the case today, and I was cranky about it. One neat thing was the sea of caterpillars literally everywhere at the parking lot. Either way, I had a great hike, and eventually changed my clothes at another parking area.



Step-By-Step
  • Park at Diana's Baths Parking Area ($5)
  • Start hike on the Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Detour at Diana's Baths, then continue at Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Junction with Red Ridge Trail, continue on Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Cross Lucy Brook, continue on Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Junction with Attitash Trail, turn to continue on Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Summit North Moat Mountain, continue on Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Junction with Red Ridge Trail, turn to descend Red Ridge Trail.
  • Cross Moat Brook, continue on Red Ridge Trail.
  • Junction with USFS Road 379, continue on Red Ridge Trail.
  • Junction with Red Ridge Link, continue on Red Ridge Trail.
  • Junction with snowmobile trail, continue on Red Ridge Trail. 
  • Cross Lucy Brook to rejoin Moat Mountain Trail.
  • Continue back to car.


Moat Mountain Trail Excerpt from White Mountain Guide, 30th Edition (2017)

        "This trail traverses the main ridge of Moat Mtn., providing magnificent views from numerous outlooks. Parts of the ridge are very exposed to weather, particularly the section that crosses Middle Moat and South Moat. The trail can be hard to follow along the open ridge sections in poor visibility; look carefully for cairns and blazes, many of which are faded. 

        [...].

        The northeast terminus of the trail is reached from Conway village via Washington St. and West Side Rd., or from North Conway [...].

Starting from the Northeast terminus, a wide, graded, universally accessible path descends slightly then turns left and winds through coniferous woods for 0.6 miles, intersecting the former route (a gravel road) at the clearing just below the mill site at Diana's Baths, a series of scenic cascades where Lucy Brook runs over ledges and through large potholes. Moat Mtn. Trail bears right and leaves the upper end of the clearing, close to the baths, then bears left at a fork onto a logging road that follows the north bank of Lucy Brook, crossing a tributary just before reaching another form (sign) at 1.2 miles. Here, Red Ridge Trail turns left across the brook, eventually rejoining Moat Mtn. Trail at the apex of Red Ridge, making possible a fine loop hike.

        Moat Mtn. Trail crosses Lucy Brook (difficult at high water) at 1.5 miles, and follows the south bank, passing an attractive cascade. At 2.4 miles, it turns abruptly left uphill, away from the stream (last sure water), at the point where Attitash Trail continues straight ahead along the stream towards Big Attitash Mountain. Moat Mountain Trail ascends steadily through the woods and, at 2.8 miles, begins to pass over scrubby, ledgy areas, where the trail must be followed with care, reaching the first good outlook at 3.6 miles. After a steeper section, the trail reaches a shoulder at 4.0 miles and runs nearly nevel through a patch of larger trees then climbs fairly steeply through decreasing scrub and increasing bare ledge to the summit of North Moat at 4.3 miles, where you have an unobstructed view in all directions.

        From the summit of North Moat, the trail descends sharply to the base of the cone then easily along a shoulder with occasional views. At the end of the shoulder, the trail drops steeply, passing over several ledges that require some scrambling, traverses another shoulder where you have a fine outlook to the right in a ledgy area, then descends steeply over more ledges to a col in a fine spruce forest. Ascending again, the trail passes the junction with Red Ridge Trail left (northeast) at 5.4 miles, just below several large rocks that provide good views. [continued...]."

Red Ridge Trail from White Mountain Guide, 30th Edition (2017)
        "This trail ascends Red Ridge, with magnificent views, leaving Moat Mountain Trail 1.2 miles from West Side Road and rejoining Moat Mountain Trail at the unnamed peak at the apex of Red Ridge, 1.1 miles south of the summit of North Moat. With Moat Mountain Trail, Red Ridge Trail provides a very attractive loop over the open summit of North Moat.
        This trail, marked with yellow blazes (and some orange blazes north of the junction with REd Ridge Link) branches left (south) from Moat Mountain Trail and immediately crosses Lucy Brook, a difficult crossing in high water. Red Ridge Trail ascends generally south at a gentle grade, crossing a yellow-blazed snowmobile trail at 0.5 miles. Red Ridge Link leaves on the left for White Horse Ledge at 0.8 miles, and Red Ridge Trail descends gradually until it crosses the gravel FR 379 (the continuation of the snowmobile trail mentioned above) at 1.5 miles. The trail soon turns sharply right, approaches Moat Brook and follows it, then turns left and crosses the brook at 2.0 miles, zigzagging steeply upward and climbing to a gravel bank (use caution here, particularly on the descent) where you have good views. Continuing upward rather steeply, the trail ascends a steep ledge by means of an eroded trap dike and soon attains the crest of Red Ridge, where the grade moderates. Passing alternately through scrub and over ledges with good views, the trail reaches the bottom of an extensive open ledge section with magnificent views at 3.0 miles. At 3.4 miles, the trail reenters scrub and soon rejoins Moat Mountain Trail at the foot of several little rock knobs atop a small peak on the main ridge crest between North Moat and Middle Moat."

Moat Mountain from White Mountain Guide, 19th Edition (1969)
        "This long irregular ridge lies W of the Saco River nearly opposite No. Conway. North Moat (3201 ft.), Middle Moat (2760 ft.) and South Moat (2772 ft.) make the main ridge. All have been completely burned over and are bare, so that they afford fine views. A shoulder consisting of several clustered peaks to the W is known as West Moat (Big Attitash), and is reached by the Attitash Trail. For map see Chocura sheet."
        *The Middle Moat referred to here is now the nameless peak at the junction of the Red Ridge trail.

Moat Mountain Trail Excerpt from White Mountain Guide, 19th Edition (1969)
        "From North Conway or Intervale to the highest summit, this trail starts from Lucy's (Diana's Baths), which is easily reached by auto from No. Conway by turning off the West Side Road. The main path leaves the upper end of the clearing, close to the Baths, by a logging road, which follows for about 1/2 mi. the N bank of Lucy Brook and then forks (sign). The L branch (Red Ridge Trail) crosses the brook and continues to Red Ridge; the R is the main trail to North Moat. The main trail crosses a swampy area, through which Lucy Brook seeps, then follows the S bank for 1 m. It then turns abruptly L, uphill away from the stream (last sure water), the Attitash Trail continuing straight ahead to West Moat. In 1/3 m. the path comes out onto some ledges, over which it is marked by yellow paint. The trail continues up through the woods, and after passing through scrub on the shoulder at the foot of the cone a path leads W (R) 50 yds. to a spring (unreliable).
        From the summit of N Moat the trail descends SE to about 2660 ft., and then climbs an easy 100 ft. to the summit of Middle Moad, where the REd Ridge Trail leaves L (E) for Lucy Brook and Diana's Baths. [...]."

Red Ridge Trail from White Mountain Guide, 19th Edition (1969)
        "This trail branches L from the Moat Mountain Trail 0.6 m. from Diana's Baths and immediately crosses Lucy Brook. It runs generally S by W for about 1 1/4 m. up a gentle grade. In 1.25 m. the trail crosses a government boundary marked with red blazes running NE to SW. At 1.5 m. and just before it reaches a branch of Moat Brook the trail turns R (W) at junction with the abandoned Thompson's Falls Trail, and follows the brook for about 1/2 m. It then crosses the brook (last sure water) and ascends the wooded slope of Red Ridge rather steeply for the first 1/4 m. Passing alternately through scrub and over ledges, it finally emerges and winds up the crest of the bare ridges to the summit of Milddle Moat."