Galehead, South Twin, & North Twin (White Mountain National Forest)

Galehead, South Twin, & North Twin (White Mountain National Forest)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 14.88 miles
Elevation: 4,577 feet
Time: 11 hours, 1 minute (9 hours, 33 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers

The Hike

Time for my first 4000-footer of the year! I had recently reconnected with a great friend from college and we started chatting about hiking, and then about hiking in New Hampshire, and then about the 4000-footers, and then we set a date to tackle some! She requested we do views, and I still needed the Twins, so we landed on Galehead and the Twins for our hike. My 2:15am alarm went off (ouch) after a night out in the North End (ouch) and I started my drive up to meet her about an hour north. I picked her up, continued onto the Mecca (Hooksett), where I not only christened the bathroom, but they actually had breakfast sandwiches out! I guess it's truly random when they will be available, because at this point it was 4:30am and they were fully stocked, but other times I've been there at the same time and there's been nothing. Who knows! Our drive continued on, the sun began to rise, the mountains grew closer, we stopped to christen the Lincoln Dunkin Donuts' bathroom (this was going to be a theme for me today), and I did not crash my car gawking at the alpenglow while driving through Franconia Notch. Finally, we made it off of I-93 and found Gale River Loop Road and the trailhead. We spent a good amount of time slowly getting ready for our long day, and by 6:00am we were ready to go!

The first long chunk of our hike was along the scenic Gale River Trail, which coincidentally follows the North Branch of the Gale River, which is audible for most of the trail's length. There were two gentle stream crossings early on, both of which were easily rock-hoppable. The trail was very easily graded for the first few miles, passing through newly green forests and many wildflowers (I loved seeing the Trillium!). The trickiest crossing was across the Garfield Stream, but thankfully for us tricky was not difficult at all. I made the classic joke "whoever falls in buys ice cream after," which actually wasn't a joke... but no one fell in so we didn't have to worry about that. We could see the outline of what we thought was one of our mountains through the trees at the crossing, but silly us didn't realize how wrong we were! It was a low shoulder off the ridge of N. Twin, well over a thousand feet below the summit, and at least a thousand feet above us. Spirits were high, and we continued on!

The trail slowly increased to a moderate grade at points, crossing over many streams and occasional footbridges, eventually opening up to a view along the river caused by an old slide, with a slight view up to the ridge of the Twins HIGH up ahead. The trail began to climb more steeply after this, with occasional "peek-a-boo" views toward the ridge of the Twins. We noticed that there was one mountain with cliffs reflecting brightly in the sun. We thought this may have been North Twin, but we would later find out how terribly wrong we were when we saw the same cliffs from the summit of North Twin, MUCH higher up than the cliffs (after reading the chapter on the Twins in The 4000-Footers of the White Mountains, A Guide and History, 2nd Edition, I learned this was a part of the ridge of North Twin, just a low part, described as having "buttresses").

The Gale River Trail terminates at a junction with the Garfield Ridge Trail (Appalachian Trail), and we turned left toward the Galehead Hut. The Garfield Ridge Trail here was similar to the upper stretches of the Gale River Trail, steep and rocky with occasional "peek-a-boo" views. We knew we were getting close when we started crossing paths with folks descending after their breakfast at the nearby hut. We only followed the white blazes for 0.6-miles, where the trail terminates at the Galehead Hut. 

We were immediately greeted by a magnificent view up to South Twin, the Twin Brook Valley, the further reaches of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, Owl's Head, and the summit hump of Galehead. The evergreen covered peaks were a dark green, while the trees down in the valley were almost a lime green, with their early spring leaves. There were a few Grey Jays flying about asking to be fed, and I had to pause my enjoyment to run to the bathroom. The hut bathrooms are truly the most luxurious things in the world. I'm almost five miles from the nearest road, on the boundary of the federal Wilderness Area, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in New England, and I get to use the bathroom on a toilet with running water? Absolutely incredible. 

Following my christening of the hut (that's three for those keeping track at home), we filled up water, enjoyed the view, had a quick snack, and then started our way up to Galehead Mountain on the Frost Trail (named for the couple that built the trail). The trail started with a bouldery, scrambly descent, followed by a steep ascend, and then a final moderate climb. I caught myself having some choice words to say about the steep ascent, but thankfully it was short. We passed the overlook so we could summit first, and then we found the magnificent summit area - entirely wooded, maybe 10 feet in diameter, with a cairn to mark the mundane accomplishment. Peak #1 - complete!

We met Cassie at the summit, where we took turns taking each other's photos. Now retracing our steps, we made it back to the outlook, where we met Cassie, and we took turns taking each other's photos, again! She was really kind - her hiking dog had passed away recently so now she takes photos with her dog's leash on every peak she does without her. Sarah and I were trying to contain our emotions during that story! The view from the outlook was fantastic. Similar to that from the hut, but this view really showcases how massive South Twin and its south ridge are. We could also see North Twin off on the left and the Galehead Hut, which is always fun.

The trip back down the Frost Trail was quick, with an occasional "peek-a-boo" view of South Twin taunting us. Back at the hut, to no surprise, I christened the bathroom (4) and we took another break. This was supposed to be a short break, but I broke out my zoom lens to take some photos of the birds, which naturally delayed things. Those Gray Jays are feisty! I also saw a white-throated sparrow, which had really pretty gold feathers around its eyes. Once I was done procrastinating, we got our packs on, sighed at South Twin looming over us, and started what was expected to be (and was) the toughest part of our hike.

The Appalachian Trail continues now on the Twinway, which initially descends before reaching a snowy/muddy col, and then steeply climbs almost 1,000 feet in 0.8 miles. The trail was steep, but straightforward, with only a few scrambles and one slippery spot due to spring runoff. There were occasional patches of ice that was easily avoidable, and one patch of snow near the top that was no problem. We took it very slow, and made it to the top without too much anguish! It helped that there were views back toward Galehead, Garfield, and Franconia Ridge popping up throughout this slog. Our energies started to pick back up when the trees started krummholzing (my word for getting smaller) and the world started to open up around us - WOW. In one direction is Galehead, Garfield, Franconia Ridge, and Owl's Head. In another is the Bonds. In another is North Twin. And all this is just from the trail - we're not even at the top yet! I had to remind myself that I cannot go faster because I will pass away, but I was so excited!

The final push brought us to a great summit with two "areas" for enjoying and relaxing. The "main area" has the trail signs and all of the people. And then no more than 20 feet further, technically along the North Twin Spur (I think), is the second which is at essentially equal height. The 360-degree views were absolutely incredible, with a gentle haze in the air from humidity or wild fires or who knows what. The traces of leftover snow on the higher peaks were shining in the sun, and I was just mesmerized. Most impressive was how small some of the 4000-footers looked. Specifically, Owl's Head, Hale, and Galehead. We ran back into Cassie, who got right to business saying "Hey again let's take some pictures!" We learned that she was one day two of a two-day Pemi Loop, and did didn't tell her mom she was doing this until she was too deep to quit! We planned to take a long break up here after we hit North Twin, so we gathered our brains and continued on!

The North Twin Spur started out above treeline with great views towards the Presidentials, and then dipped back into the trees, which were very grown-in and tickled and scratched us the whole time. This was paired with occasional patches of snow/ice, and deep pockets of mud - fun! We did acknowledge that this was the first time we dealt with less than ideal trail conditions, so we took our win and slogged on. Once back in the forest cover, we were dealt with our next challenge - snow! And lots of it! There were some trace of monorail, but it was mostly 0-30" of snow, which was either firm, soft, icy, or soaking wet. Really made for some slow going and interesting moments of post-holing. We had our spikes, but nothing was slippery enough to warrant them. 

We finally survived the first half of the North Twin Trail when we hit the col, which had a nice obstructed view toward Washington through a very damaged area. The climb up to North Twin was much less interesting, with only one scrambly section, all of which was snow-free! The North Twin Spur terminates at a large cairn, and the true summit is a small cairn on the outlook spur. The cairn is underwhelming, but the view from the outlook is incredible! The main event is the monstrous South Twin, which connects to Galehead via a long, steep ridge, that we somehow climbed? Behind that is Owl's Head, with Flume and Liberty further back. 

The views continue from Galehead all the way to Lafayette where you can see how ridiculous the Garfield Ridge Trail is, and the tippity top of Cannon was peaking out too. The surrounding mountains faded out into the hazy horizon, but wow. We spent a good 15-20 minutes here, admiring the couple that brought one of those inflatable sofa-sacks with them. That's luxury!

We told ourselves we're getting a long break on South Twin, so we packed up once more and made the trek back, which was much easier. We survived with zero post holing, probably thanks to gravity no longer working against us. Once we were back being tickled by the trees, we were greeted with the summit cone of South Twin laughing once again at us, but we were eager enough to get back up we pushed on. Back up top, we found a spot to sit, take our shoes off, and stare into the beautiful void that is the White Mountains. At one point, I caught myself thinking "wow, that slide looks like a dancing crab" - I stand by that thought (turns out this was Zealand Mountain). I also admired the "fir waves" along the North Twin ridge - it almost looked like Elsa from Frozen did a bit of "Let it Go" over the ridge.

After at least a half hour it was officially time to work our way back down. Our trip down Twinway was still slow, but not nearly as bad as I had thought it would be. While writing this, I'm sure part of it was just taking it slow, but I'm also sure part of it is all the hiking that I'm doing actually paying off, plus having great company to pass the time. I'm really happy with myself for once! ... anyway tangent over - we passed a few coming up, one of which was someone I follow on YouTube - ChrisGoesOutdoors. Just like Floki, I was too starstruck to introduce myself, but how cool! I'm eagerly waiting for his video to drop.

I christened the hut... again (5) before we started our final slog descent down, which definitely felt long, but everything feels long when your final mileage reaches its teenage years. We passed a bunch of folks on the Garfield Ridge Trail, presumably camping somewhere for the night, before turning onto the Gale River Trail, where we didn't see a single soul. As with most return trips, this one was rather uneventful. Sarah and I hit the two extremes of hiking conversations - religion, and hiking in absolute silence, both of which are great options! I cannot stress how grateful I am to have reconnected with her and to now have another hiking buddy! The only challenge we had in this final stretch were our tired ankles, we both managed to impressively roll them three times each, thankfully to no sustaining injuries!

We did our final stream crossings before giving our faces and bodies a good rinse in the final one - it was incredibly how much salt I had running down my face. The cold water truly felt incredible and gave me the much needed push to get back to the car, which thankfully wasn't too far away! We spent a little bit of time changing and stretching before getting in the air conditioning (it was in the upper 80s at the trailhead - thankfully the weather up top was beautiful) and driving to the Woodstock Inn for some hefty burgers. I was home by 9:15pm, and slept like a literal boulder.

Step-By-Step

- Park at Gale River Trail parking area.

- Start hike on blue-blazed (scarcely) Gale River Trail.

- At terminus, turn right onto white-blazed Garfield Ridge Trail.

- At terminus, veer right/straight onto Frost Trail.

- Enjoy the Galehead Hut, then continue onto Frost Trail to Galehead Summit.

- Retrace steps to Hut and then Garfield Ridge Trail terminus.

- At junction, turn right onto white-blazed Twinway.

- Slowly follow Twinway straight up to summit of South Twin.

- From summit, turn left onto blue-blazed North Twin Spur.

- At terminus, turn left onto "Outlook" spur.

- Enjoy views from North Twin.

- Retrace steps all the way back to the car.

"Gale River Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
    This blue-blazed trail runs from the gravel-surfaced Gale River Loop Rd (FR 92) to Garfield Ridge Trail 0.6 mi. west of Galehead Hut. The trailhead is reached by leaving US 3 at its intersection with Trudeau Rd; this intersection, sometimes called Five Corners, is 5.3 mi. west of the stoplight in Twin Mountain and 4.4 mi. east of the jct. of US 3 and NH 141. Watch for signs for Trudeau Rd. and Gale River Trail. Follow FR 25 southeast, bearing left at 0.6 mi., and then turn sharply right at 1.3 mi. on FR 92 and continue to the parking area on the left at 1.6 mi. (Straight ahead on the road, it is 1.6 mi. to the Garfield Trail parking lot.) The parking area is a stop for the AMC Hiker Shuttle. FR 25 and FR 92 are not open to public vehicular use in winter; plowed parking is available on the northwest side of the Five Corners intersection. Gale River Trail lies within the watershed of a municipal water supply, and hikers and campers should take care not to pollute any of the streams in the watershed.

    From the parking area, Gale River Trail enters the woods, and in 40 yd, a path from the AMC Hiker Shuttle stop joins from the left. At 0.2 mi., the trail descends a bank and crosses a tributary brook; then it turns right on an old logging road that climbs easily along the west side of the North Branch of Gale River, some distance away from the water. At 1.4 mi., the trail comes near the edge of the North Branch, and 1.7 mi., it turns sharply right onto a relocated section, muddy in places and more than 1 mi. long, that was constructed in 2011 to bypass two difficult crossings of the North Branch. Gale River Trail swings right, then left, up a bank and swings left again as it heads south up the valley, high above the North Branch, at easy to moderate grades. At 2.2 mi., the trail descends slightly to cross Garfield Stream, a tributary of the North Branch (may be difficult in high water), and then continues to climb through fine woods. The trail then swings left and descends gradually to rejoin the original route of the trail at 2.8 mi. (In the reverse direction, bear left and uphill on the relocated section.) After crossing several small brooks and passing the gravel outwash of an overgrown slide, Gale River Trail emerges at 3.2 mi. on a gravel bank above the stream at the base of a slide, offering views down to the North Branch and up to the high ridges of the Twins. The trail becomes significantly steeper and rougher and ends with a fairly steep climb, with many rock steps, to Garfield Ridge Trail.

"Garfield Ridge Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

    [...]. Garfield Ridge Trail contours around the steep slope of Galehead Mtn., passing a restricted outlook north at 6.3 mi., and then turns right and climbs to a jct. with Twinway and Frost Trail 40 yd. from Galehead Hut. Turn right on Frost Trail for the hut.

"Frost Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

    This short trail heads from the jct. of Garfield Ridge Trail and Twinway to Galehead Hut and the summit of Galehead Mtn. From the jct., Frost Trail leads 40 yd. south to the clearing in front of Galehead Hut. Leaving the hut clearing, the trail descends southwest into a sag and then turns sharply right at a jct. where Twin Brook Trail enters left. After a short distance, Frost Trail ascends a steep pitch, at the top of which a side path leads left 30 yd. to an excellent outlook over the Twin Brook valley. Frost Trail continues at a moderate grade to the rather flat and viewless summit.

"Twinway" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

    This trail extends from a jct. with Garfield Ridge Trail and Frost Trail by Galehead Hut to a jct. with Zealand Trail and Ethan Pond Trail 0.2 mi. beyond Zealand Falls Hut, forming an important ridge crest link along the north edge of the Pemigewasset Wilderness that connects the  mountains of the western part of the region - the Franconia Ridge, Mt. Garfield, and the Twins - to the Bonds, the Zealand-Hale region, the Willey Range, and the northern parts of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. Twinway offers magnificent views from the summits of South Twin Mtn. and Mt. Guyot and from the outlook at Zeacliff. Connecting trails lead to a number of other superb outlooks. For its entire length, Twinway is part of the white-blazed AT.

    The following description is in the eastbound direction (from Galehead Hut to Zealand Falls Hut). Distances, elevation gains, and times are also given for the reverse direction. From the jct. of Frost and Garfield Ridge tarils 40 yd. from Galehead Hut, Twinway leads east, passing over a ledgy hump and descending to a sag. It then climbs steadily and steeply on a rocky footway up the cone of South Twin, emerging from the scrub near the top, to the south knob of the open summit at 0.8 mi. North Twin Spur begins here, running straight ahead 40 yd. to the north knob and then on to North Twin. [...].

"North Twin Spur" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

    This blue-blazed trail connects Twinway on the bare summit of South Twin with North Twin Trail near the summit of North Twin. North Twin Spur leaves Twinway at the south knob of South Twin, crosses the north knob in 40 yd., traverses an open shoulder, and then descends moderately to the fern-filled col at 0.8 mi. From here, North Twin Spur ascends moderately, with occasional views, to the summit of North Twin, where North Twin Trail continues straight ahead. A spur path (sign: "Outlook") leads left 60 yd. over the wooded true summit (small cairn) to a fine outlook from the western edge of the summit area.

"Canada Jay" from Wikipedia

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