Big Deer Mountain (Groton State Forest)

Big Deer Mountain (Groton State Forest)

New Discovery State Park

Distance: 3.50 miles
Elevation: 545 feet
Time: 1 hour, 24 minutes

Hike Type: Out-and-Back

Hiking Challenges: Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge

The Hike

There was a 30-ish minute drive between Devil's Hill and Big Deer Mountain trailheads, and most of it was on bumpy, scenic, but rough dirt roads. I pulled up to the ranger station to 1) make sure I was in the right place and 2) pay my $5 day-use fee, and the ranger I talked to was just lovely. She assured me I was in the correct spot, gave me a hiking map and driving map of the New Discovery State Park area, and then she told me about how part of the trail was through a logged area from a few years ago and the loggers left 10ish trees half-cut standing tall, and the ranger insisted that the park should carve animals into the trees. I continued my drive through the camping area to "site 45 - just pretend you're camping there when you park" (this was an actual campsite - there was no "official" trailhead parking), verbally fought a red squirrel, and got my second hike started!

The Big Deer Mountain trail starts on an open logging road with a good a mount of horse poop that paralleled the logged area. The trail turns right, hiking through the logged area, which was pretty grown-in at this point and bit claustrophobic to get through. I saw the trees the ranger was talking about, and I firmly agree with her that animals should be carved into them (which would comically confuse anyone who isn't in the "know"). 

Once in the woods, the trail briefly descends into the land of 1,000 crazy squirrels. The forest was generally young with excellent fungi all around. Clouds were rolling over which added shade to the grene tunnel I was hiking through, and at 0.69 miles I passed a sign showing that the forest was last harvested in 1996. 

I passed truly the greenest catepillar I've ever seen and then passed a collapsed shelter at 1.0 miles. I wonder when it collapsed and why it was left? I couldn't find any info on it online or the NEK Mountain Trail Guide. 

The trail continued to roll up and down gently, with a more steady uphill as it approached the trail junction toward Osmore Lake, where I could hear a Loon singing its classic tune. 

The trail quickly gets more steep and rugged following the trail junction, and I nearly passed away after spooking a group of 4-5 grouse, which I simply did not enjoy. There is a herd path on the left that leads to a great view of neighboring hills in the foreground and the Whites in the background (specifically, Lafayette/Franconia Ridge with Canon in front and Moosilauke). 

The main trail continues on past a magnificent erratic to a view at the terminus of the vast forest. I stayed just for a few photos as the sun was beginning to set, and turned around for my quick return trip.

The return was quick and easy (no more grouses), and my brain more or less turned off until I was back on the other side of the logged area where I found blackberries! I had at least 20 (I love a free snack) and eventually forced myself to stop looking around and get back to my car. 

As I was packing up I was surrounded with the lovely smells of campfires, the ridiculous sounds of red squirrels, and I was appreciative of how alone I was on this hike. My drive to Emma's was long, but beautiful, with a magnificent golden light on the trees. Hike #2 of the weekend and #17 of the Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge = Complete!

Step-by-Step

    - Park at camp site #45.

    - Pass gate at trailhead.

    - At signed junction, turn off of logging road and continue on Big Deer Mountain Trail.

    - At next junction, stay right to continue on Big Deer Mountain Trail.

    - Just before summit, along ridge, turn left on herd path to view.

    - Retrace steps and turn left back onto Big Deer Mountain Trail.

    - Trail terminates at great view.

    - Retrace steps back to car.

"Welcome to Groton State Forest" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        At more than 26,000 acres, Groton State Forest is the second largest contiguous land holding of the State of Vermont. This scenic and rugged area is known for its developed and dispersed recreation opportunities. Though only a half-hour drive from Barre, Montpelier, or St. Johnsbury, Groton State Forest retains a sense of wildness and supports a variety of wildlife, including black bear, moose, deer, grouse, mink, beaver, otter, fisher, loons, and herons. A variety of fish are found in the clear ponds and streams.

        A year-round trail system connects most major points of interest. Peacham Bog Natural Area (748 acres) contains one of the larget bogs in Vermont, and is home to some interesting and unusual plants and animals. The summit of Owls Head Mountain, accessible by trail, or seasonal road that leads almost ot the top, offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area.

        The exposed bedrock found on mountain peaks here is granite, similar to that found in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The striations in this granite, and the boulders found throughout the forest, are evidence of glacial activity that occured more than 10,000 years ago. The glaciers scattered and scraped the landscape irregularly, leaving a rough topography with generally poor drainage.

        The forest's cultural history is primarily one of intensive logging, beginning in 1873 with the opening of the Montpelier and Wells River Railroad that ran through the forest. By the mid 1920's most of the timber was cut, leading to the decline the railroad. Several forest fires, especially a severe one in 1903, changed the landscape from spruce, fir and pine to red maple and yellow nad white birch common today. The Civilian Conservation Corps, encamped near Osmore Pond in the 1930's, reforested some areas with plantations of pine and spruce. Today, Groton State Forest is being managed for multiple uses by the Department of Forests, Parks, and Recreation to provide sustainable recreation, wildlife, water, and wood products. 

"New Discovery State Park" from New Discovery State Park Map & Guide

        Welcome to New Discovery State Park. As easly as 1704, Native Americans and the French were using routes through Groton to reach Canada and Massachusetts. Colonists settled this area of Vermont slightly earlier than the rest of the state through the accessible networks of waterways. 

        The rocky, tree covered hillsides were originally cloaked wtih white pine, spruce, hemlock, beech, maple, and birch. These were logged by local farmers for lumber, fuel and potash. The logging industry was large-scale for almost 100 years while the railroad was operating. Today, logging is still a vital industry in teh area, but has lost some of its dominance in favor of modern society's leisure time movement - private cottages/seasonal homes and a variety of outdoor recreation activities. 

        Groton State Forest, with over 27,000 acreas, is the second largest landholding administered by the Department of Forest, Parks, and Recreation. It has over 17 miles of hiking trails and over 20 miles of gravel roads and multi-use trails suitable for mountain biking and horeseback riding. 

"Big Deer Mt. Trail from New Discovery State Park" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        This trail passes through the forest and climbs to scenic vistas. From New Discovery Loop B, turn left onto the road to Peacham Pond. After 0.3 miles, the trail leaves the road in a red pine plantation. The trail is fairly level for most of its distance, but climbs steeply from the trail junction (1.1 miles) to ridgetop. Views include Peacham Pond, Peacham Bog and the White Mts. 

Map of Groton State Forest

Photo Album

Devil's Hill (Groton State Forest)

Devil's Hill (Groton State Forest)

Distance: 1.96 miles
Elevation: 413 feet
Time: 47 minutes

Hike Type: Lollipop Loop

Hiking Challenges: Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge

The Hike

  The first hike of Labor Day weekend 2023! I was able to get out of work early to beat the traffic, which was lovely. My goal for this weekend was to finish the Northeast Kingdom Mountain Challenge (5 to go!) and start hiking the Vermont 5 (Vermont's 4000-footers). I took the loooooong drive through New Hampshire, stopping at my favorite rest stop (Hooksett) and driving through Franconia Notch (which will never cease to amaze me), eventually working my way to the single-lane apple-filled road that leads to the Devil's Hill trailhead. The final stretch of road was a doozy, but soon enough I made it to the parking area, which I shared with one other car, changed into my hiking clothes, and started my first of many hikes for the weekend.

It was a chilly afternoon at 61 degrees with hints of fall colors (apparently it had snowed on Mt. Washington last night), but best of all, it smelled like fall. I was a bit sore for my first few (hundred) steps from playing human-sized Hungry Hungry Hippos during our staff meeting, but otherwise I was feeling good. The first bit of trail follows a wide, not grassy road a respectable grade (somewhere between easy and moderate), passing a gate, and leading to the main trail split where the loop begins.

The junction was grassy, but well-signed and blazed - it looked like the whole trail had actually recently been re-blazed. There area few more junctions with snowmobile trails, but all were signed, blazed, or both. Eventually the Devil's Hill Trail leaves the road grade and begins to hike more moderately/steeply on a tradition rugged New England trail. Also, I think I heard a cow moo? It sounded wildly close to me, which was very confusing. Not sure if I'll ever know the answer!

I hiked the steeper push to the top, and was wowed with the stunning view to the right into Groton State Forest and the taller peaks of the Green Mountains behind. There was a family nearby off-trail watching the hawks fly in the air, and I appreciated how they tucked themselves in on a different ledge so other hikers could enjoy the view by themselves. 

Continuing on, the second half of the loop was stunning, meanding through moss-filled forest with a soft, pine-needle ground. There was a small view out into the White Mountains that provided a really unique view of the Presidentials - specifically a shockingly clear view of Mt. Washington. 

Now descending, the trail becomes more wet and rugged - I know the Groton State Forest recommends taking the loop in the direction I did, but I might recommend going up this way, since it was a bit sketchy. Many trees were wrapped on orange flagging tape labeled "water bar," and eventually I bottomed out back on dirt road/snowmobile trail, getting ready to finish the lollipop.

I could hear the family through the woods on the other side of the loop, so I picked up my pace and basically raced them to the "lollipop stem" (I won). The final stretch of the lollipop was wet and overgrown, which wasn't very pleasant. I think I would recommend this loop clockwise just to get the wetness over with right away. Thankfully, this bit wasn't too long, and soon enough I was back on the original road and getting down to my car to head to my next hike of the day - Big Deer Mountain! Hike #1 of the weekend, and #16 of the NEK Challenge = complete!

Step-by-Step

    - Start hike at Devil's Hill Trailhead.

    - Follow blue blazes up road.

    - At trail split, continue right to follow loop counter-clockwise.

    - Continue to follow blue blazes as trail continues, paying attention at junctions.

    - Steeply and moderately climb to vista from Devil's Hill, continue on trail.

    - After descending, continue to follow blue blazes, turning left onto gravel road.

    - Continuing to follow blue blazes, rejoin original loop and follow trail back to car.

"Welcome to Groton State Forest" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        At more than 26,000 acres, Groton State Forest is the second largest contiguous land holding of the State of Vermont. This scenic and rugged area is known for its developed and dispersed recreation opportunities. Though only a half-hour drive from Barre, Montpelier, or St. Johnsbury, Groton State Forest retains a sense of wildness and supports a variety of wildlife, including black bear, moose, deer, grouse, mink, beaver, otter, fisher, loons, and herons. A variety of fish are found in the clear ponds and streams.

        A year-round trail system connects most major points of interest. Peacham Bog Natural Area (748 acres) contains one of the larget bogs in Vermont, and is home to some interesting and unusual plants and animals. The summit of Owls Head Mountain, accessible by trail, or seasonal road that leads almost ot the top, offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area.

        The exposed bedrock found on mountain peaks here is granite, similar to that found in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The striations in this granite, and the boulders found throughout the forest, are evidence of glacial activity that occured more than 10,000 years ago. The glaciers scattered and scraped the landscape irregularly, leaving a rough topography with generally poor drainage.

        The forest's cultural history is primarily one of intensive logging, beginning in 1873 with the opening of the Montpelier and Wells River Railroad that ran through the forest. By the mid 1920's most of the timber was cut, leading to the decline the railroad. Several forest fires, especially a severe one in 1903, changed the landscape from spruce, fir and pine to red maple and yellow nad white birch common today. The Civilian Conservation Corps, encamped near Osmore Pond in the 1930's, reforested some areas with plantations of pine and spruce. Today, Groton State Forest is being managed for multiple uses by the Department of Forests, Parks, and Recreation to provide sustainable recreation, wildlife, water, and wood products. 

"Devil's Hill Trail" from Groton State Forest Summer Trails Guide 

        From Groton Village, travel north of Minard Hill Road to South Peacham. Turn left on Maple Tree Lane; go 0.7 mile. Turn left on Green Bay Loop Road, proceed 1.3 miles. Turn right on Devil's Hill Road. Parking is on right 1 mile in. Hik ethis loop counter-clockwise; it's easy until a 100-yard steep stretch just before the vista. Next half mile is moderate. Excellent views of Peacham Bog and other points west from the top. 

Map of Groton State Forest

Photo Album

North & South Doublehead (White Mountain National Forest)

North & South Doublehead (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 4.19 miles
Elevation: 1,726 feet
Time: 2 hours, 54 minutes (2 hour, 33 minutes moving)

Hike Type: Loop w/ Spurs

Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View; Summit Beer Society

The Hike

My final drive for the day was an easy 25-minute drive to the Doublehead Ski Trail trailhead. I loved driving past Black Mountain in Jackson, which apparently is right next door to the Doubleheads, because it's on the Indy Pass and I plan to get good at skiing this winter! I hydrated hard on my drive, joined the one other car in the parking lot, and mourned having dry shoes. I was a little nervous about how I would fare with the steepness of this hike, but I could always turn around. Off I go on hike #3!

The Doublehead Ski Trail starts by crossing a lovely stream on a bridge (and taking a potty break at least 100 ft. away). The trail then follows a wide trail with a manageable amount of mud and still a lovely amount of mushrooms. There were bike tracks in the mud, which increased the further along I went. It reminded me of the trail up Mt. Shaw or Stannard Lookout (but nowhere near as awful as Stannard). 

Gradually, the ski trail switches over from a gentle trail in the woods to a painful, endlessly steep trail. I did appreciate that since I know how to ski now, I could imagine how terrified I would be on this trail! Footing was always fine and there was almost always a clear footpath, even with tall vegetation. I found myself singing a line from my favorite musical, "Come From Away," when they sing "holy Jesus there's more!" The pain was soon rewarded, though, with a beautiful snowshoe hare chilling just a few feet off the trail, relatively unbothered. This was the third that I've seen in the wild, and the first that did aggressively hop away!

The trail continued its ridiculous climb, slowly leveling out near the top as the forest changes to mostly conifers. I got excited when I saw the forest protection zone sign, assuming I was close, but the trail still steeply climbed along. EVENTUALLY the trail terminated at the Doublehead Cabin, and I was so relieved. To the left of the cabin was a rock that had limited standing views, but impressively had an insane amount of dragonflies flying around!

A spur trail behind the cabin leads to a lovely outlook of mountains that I've never seen before, which was super fun! I'm so used to seeing the mountains I know. 

Continuing my adventure, I followed the New Path from the cabin which PLUMMETED to the col between the doubleheads, thankfully with halfway decent footing and a few scrambles. There was a spur trail on the right that theoretically led to views, but I wasn't sure if the herd path I saw was the correct one, and when I realized it was, it was far too late for me to turn around. 

The New Path bottoms out in the col in some beautiful woods and then begins a much more reasonable climb up South Doublehead, but with much larger spiders. The trail got a little more steep near the top, but never too bad. I skipped the main view at first to make my way to the true summit, and the extra bit of hiking was worth it. There were two knobs, both with cairns, both could potentially be the true summit, and both had nice views. The first of Mt. Kearsarge, the second of those mountains that I've never seen before. 

Looking back at North Doublehead.

I worked my way back to the main view and took a lovely long break. I had a Downeast Double Blend cider, which was my #24th and final summit beverage for the Summit Beer Society patch! The dragonflies were abundant and I noticed my sunburn, but I enjoyed my time looking at the Wildcats and Carters, Mt. Carrigain, Black Mountain, and the Presis in the clouds. 

The return to the col was nice and easy, and the trip down the Old Path was steep and slow. My god, this mountain has steep trails! My brain caught up to my body on this slow descent, and I was fully bonked by the end. Thankfully, I was able to pick up the pace once back on the Ski Trail, and soon enough I was back at my car, did my quick change, chugged some Nuun, and started my long drive home. #3 for the day, and 52 With-a-View #36 = complete!

Step-by-Step

    - Start hike at Doublehead Ski Trail trailhead.

    - Follow Doublehead Ski Trail from trailhead to summit of North Doublehead.

    - Follow path to view behind Doublehead Cabin.

    - Continue hike on New Path.

    - At jct. in col, continue straight on New Path.

    - At jct., continue left on summit spur.

    - Hike to second cairn, enjoy view, turn around.

    - At jct., continue right on New Path.

    - On left, enjoy open slab view.

    - Turn left back on New Path.

    - At jct. in col, turn left onto Old Path.

    - At terminus, continue left onto Doublehead Ski Trail.

"Doublehead Ski Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF This trail ascends North Doublehead from a new trailhead parking area (plowed in witner) on Dundee Rd. from NH 16 at the Jackson covered bridge, follow NH 16A (Main St.) and at 0.5 mi. turn right onto Black Mountain Rd. (NH 16B). Go up a long hill, bear right on Black Mountain Rd. at 1.6 mi., continue past Black Mtn. Ski Area at 2.2 mi., turn right onto Dundee Rd. at 2.4 mi., and continue to the new parking area on the east (left) side of the road 3.0 mi. from NH 16. The WMNF Doublehead Cabin, on the summit, is kept locked, and reservations for its use must be made at recreation.gov or 877-444-6777.     

        From the parking area, a relocated section of trail - marked with blue blazes - ascends northeast on a newly cut route and joins the original route at 0.3 mi. (The original section of trail, which comes in on the left at this point, has been decommissioned; in reverse, turn left here.) At 0.6 mi., Doublehead Ski Trail bears slightly left where Old Path leaves right. The wide, grassy ski trail ascends north up the west slope of North Doublehead, then swings south and then southeast, climbing steadily on a zigzag route, and ends at Doublehead Cabin on the summit. The nearest water is alongside the trail about halfway down. Behind the cabin, to the right of the privy, a path leads 30 yd. to a good view east, overlooking Mountain Pond, the Baldface-Royce Range, and the hills and lakes of western Maine.

"Old Path" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF This trail ascends North Doublehead from Doublehead Ski Trail, 0.6 mi. from Dundee Rd. Old Path diverges right from Doublehead Ski Trail and passes a small brook on the left in  50 yd., rises at a moderate grade for about 0.1 mi., and then becomes steeper until it reaches the height-of-land in the col between the peaks at 0.6 mi. Here, New Path enters right from South Doublehead, and Old Path turns left and ascends moderately then more steeply, passing a side path that leads left slightly downhill about 100 yd. To a splendid view west to Mt. Carrigain, Moat Mtn., and the Sandwich Range. In a short distance, Old Path reaches the summit of North Doublehead, Doublehead Cabin (which is kept locked; reservations required), and Doublehead Ski Trail. Behind the cabin, to the right of the privy, a path leads 30 yd. to a good view east.

"New Path" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF This trail ascends South Doublehead (with the summit reached via a short spur path) and continue to the col between South and North Doublehead, where New Path meets Old Path. [...]. 

        [...]. From here, New Path begins a steep climb through spruce forest to South Doublehead, approaching it from the southwest slope. The footing is poor in places, with loose rock and gravel. At 1.1 mi., the trail meets the ridge crest at a jct. between two knobs. To the right, a 0.1-mi. spur path leads over two knobs with open ledges and partly restrict but interesting views; the first knob (the true summit of South Doublehead), reached in 100 yd., has views south and west, and the second knob has views north and east. At the jct., New Path turns left and crosses a bump that is a few feet lower than the true summit; 65 yd. from the jct., just before the trail starts to descend, it bears right, and a spur path leads to the left about 30 yd. to a ledge with a superb vista extending from the Sandwich Range to Carter Notch. New Path then descends to meet Old Path in the col to the north.

Photo Album

Imp Face (White Mountain National Forest)

Imp Face (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 4.78 miles
Elevation: 1,848 feet
Time: 2 hours, 57 minutes (2 hours, 30 minutes moving)

Hike Type: Out-and-Back

Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View

The Hike

The drive from Pine Mountain to the Imp Trail trailhead was no more than 10 minutes, with my largest obstacle being the trucks on NH-16 wanting to run me over for going 5 over the speed limit (too slow, apparently). Parking is right alongside NH-16 and I did NOT find a place to answer nature's call. Thankfully, I was able to send it to voicemail and it doesn't seem like a 911, yet. I noticed most of the fog had burned off by this point and I was definitely feeling sleepy, but I did my chores and got to work!

The Imp Trail starts in some nice woods with small gains and leads to an interesting 4-way power cut with extremely limited views upward. After the power cut the trail enters a truly beautiful section of woods filled with fungi and soft pine needles blanketing the ground. Later, it parallels a lovely stream up on a ridge. Truly, just lovely! My only complaint about the forest was how many spider webs there (still) were! There was another car at the trailhead, so I had hoped that hiker took the brunt of the beating... guess not!

The trail becomes more rugged and soon crosses the stream with an easy rock hop around some lovely cascades. The red squirrels were still mad that I was in their woods (I told them to calm down), and then the trail becomes steeper. Paired with my sweating, the humidity had my camera lens fully fogged up and my clothes fully soaked through, but thankfully the first steeper section is forgiven with a more level section through a deciduous forest where I briefly saw a bunny!

Continuing on, the trail began to climb again where the footing was either fantastic or horrendous with very little in between. Shockingly, I unexpectedly had cell service and received a rather irritating work-related text, and I was just so greatful to be in the woods where I couldn't be bothered by it if I tried. As the climb continued it became less pleasant - I wrote the woods "grueling, muddy, wet, slippery climb." Upon further reflection, I was definitely still in the mindset of the easy climb up Pine Mountain, and did not appropriately prepare for a harder hike. 

The trail came up to the edge of the mountain and followed the side, still ascending moderately, where I could make out the ridge of the Carters through the trees. The climb CONTINUED (which felt like forever) as I passed the hiker who I shared the parking lot with - a man of few words. After turning away from the mountain's side the trail follows a contour line and opens up at the light at the end of the tunnel!

The views from the Imp Face ledges were amazing and completely worth the dreadful climb up. The Carters were immediately on the left, leading to the Wildcats, Pinkham Notch, and then the partially cloud-covered Presidentails on the right. With some creative footing, I could even make out Pine Mountain at the foot of Mt. Madison deep on the right. The clouds that were up on the Presis were beautiful, big cotton clouds with crystal clear views underneath. 

I stopped for a long break (where I got a nice sunburn... whoops) to enjoy some food and the beautiful views. A little grey bird stopped by to bounce around (and probably ask for some food) as I was deep in a trance of peace while listening to the water of the Imp Brook draining from North Carter.

I was heavily debating if I was actually going to do my final hike for the day, and eventually decided that I'll wait until I'm closer to the car to make the final call. I got everything packed up from the ledges, got back in the woods, and slipped within 5 minutes on one of the nasty rocks - whoops! I passed a few people on my trip down, one of which asked if they were close, I said "you're not too far away," and she so sincerely said "thank. you." The different areas of forest had different pockets of dense humidity, but other areas were lovely. I was beyond delighted to be back in the lovely fungi forest after crossing the brook, and eventually landed back at my car, where I decided I would try for the last hike of the day - the Doubleheads! #2 of the day and #35 of the 52 With-a-View = Done!

Step-by-Step

    - Hike out and back via the Imp Trail.

"Imp Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

WMNF This yellow-blazed trail makes a loop over the cliff that bears the Imp Face, providing fine views of the Presidential Range. The ends of the loop are 0.3 mi. apart on NH 16, with the north end 2.6 mi. north of Mt. Washington Auto Rd. and 5.4 mi. south of US 2 in Gorham. Roadside parking is available at both trailheads (plowed in winter).

        The north branch of Imp Trail crosses a narrow power-line cut and heads east up the south side of the Imp Brook valley, through a pleasant stand of hemlocks, and then crosses the brook at 0.8 mi. (difficult in high water). The trail angles north up to a ridge and follows its crest, nearly level for some distance; then it angles more steeply up the north side of the ridge and continues nearly ot the bottom of a ravine northeast of the Imp Face cliff. Here, Imp Trail turns right and then climbs steeply, swinging to the left to reach the Imp Face viewpoint at 2.2 mi. 

        [...].

Photo Album