Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 15.33 miles
Elevation: 2,484 feet
Time: 6 hours, 48 minutes (6 hours, 17 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: Wapack Trail
The Hike
Hike #3 of my Wapack series! I was out the door at 5:00am and made the journey over to the Wapack Trailhead on Turnpike Road, landing right at 6:30am with one stop at a Cumberland Farms to destroy a bathroom (tragically, I had to ask for a key to this one...). I also spent the drive listening to the first half of Taylor Swift's new album - kind of overrated in my opinion... she's a solid lyricist but the music is way too overproduced for my liking. ANYWAY, it was a misty/foggy/spooky morning, my tummy was still feeling a bit silly, and I was off on my hike!
I started my journey on the Wapack Link Trail out of the parking lot, which in hindsight added some mileage to my day (I could have road walked up to the actual WT, but brain was running on low. The trail walks into the woods, passes a signed junction to "Flat Mountain" (not listed anywhere or on AllTrails), and then dips into a very wet and muddy sag which made me grateful for my new waterproof boots! No more than 3 minutes in I heard the thunderous roar of a grouse. The trail was littered with sticks and logs, assumedly there to help the mud crossing. Soon enough it climbs again to terminate at the true Wapack Trail.
From here, I turned right to hike the Wapack Trail from this junction to Turnpike Road. The trail conditions continued to be wet and muddy, but the trail opened up to what looked like an old abandoned rope-tow ski hill! There was some old equipment along the lift line, and a private residence on the other side (I later learned it was sometimes called Kidder Mountain or Flat Mountain Ski Area - https://www.nelsap.org/nh/kidder.html). It looked like the Flat Mountain trail could have saved some time, but there was no way for me to know. The trail continues to the bottom of the ski hill, through another very muddy spot, and then works its way to Turnpike Road, which was my turn around point.
Back at the original junction, I continued along the Wapack Trail, which skirted a recently logged area followed by a wide power cut, where the Kidder Mountain Trail turns right. The fog was lifting, but the tops of the power lines were still hidden from view.
Following the power cut, the Wapack Trail followed a stone wall alongside a more heavily logged area that appeared to be in the beginning stages of development that was HEAVILY posted as "NO TRESSPASSING." The trail spits you out onto a wide dirt road that appeared to be recently widened. Walking here felt very wrong, but there was still an occasional blaze, so I continued on!
The trail crossed a drained pond and continued onto another, smaller, more scenic dirt road. Finally, the Wapack Trail veers left when the dirt road turns right and enters an old, decomissioned woods road, called "Old Road" on AllTrails. Old Road was wet, sometimes acting as a lovely stream, sometimes as a bottomless pit of mud. Later, the stream veers off of the road and the trail becomes lovely. I heard another grouse "drumming" off in the distance, which I only recently learned was the sound of my "favorite" bird!
There is an easy, swampy crossing at a small, open area, and then the trail becomes muddy again, with the trail meandering off the flooded roadbed. The end of this section is marked by a lovely, easy rock hop on comically large, flat rocks in mossy woods. This section of trail ends at the intersection of Nashua Road and Temple Road, and then continues along the paved Temple Road, which travels past a few very different houses, ranging from lovely surburban properties to collections of motor homes, most of which seeming abandoned? The temperature was beginning to rise with a few rays of sunlight peeking through the clouds just as I arrived to the next trailhead, which is truly where my first climb of the day would happen.
There were two cars at the trailhead, which implied my long day of solitude was soon to end, but that was okay. The trail sign said it would 4.8 miles to NH-101, meaning that it would be a while until I am standing back at this point. I forced myself to get out of my head and started climbing!
The climb was mostly moderate, lined with, you guessed it, more stone walls! The upper forest was beautifully covered in moss and lichen, and soon enough I was at the first of two outlooks overlooking Mt. Watatic and Barrett Mountain - a lovely break spot, but I wanted to push on a little further before I had a good sit.
The sweat was definitely present as the trail continued to climb, much more gently at this point, and the pimple on my waistline was really starting to bother me, but the smell of the woods kept me going. I ran into my first people of the day 4.5 miles into my hike (1 hour and 53 minutes) - I was happy with that! A few cairns started to appear in more open areas, and the trail began to dip into a blowdown area and then crossed into a different property.
The Wapack Trail continued it's wiggle along this ridge, named the "Cabot Skyline," passed the Berry Pasture Trail, climbed a bit more moderately to a spur with a great standing view of Mt. Monadnock, which is where I took my first big break. I had another breakfast sandwich that I stashed away as the sun turned the sweat on my back into steam while I admired Mt. Monadnock through the tall saplings.
After 15 or so minutes, I packed up my belongings, got what I thought would be one final glance of Mt. Monadock, and continued my hike not too far to the first named peak of the day, Burton Peak. After the peak the trail leaves the Cabot Skyline cooridoor and provides more obstructed, season views of Mt. Monadnock through young trees behind a stone wall. There was a signed outlook with not much more to see than some snow at the bottom of a cliff, and another great view of Mt. Monadnock just a bit further down trail.
After that view, the woods thickened and some flies began to awaken from their winter slumber. The Wapack Trail dipped and continued toward Holt Peak, which looked like a shadow in the distance through the trees. The trail yet again dipped, crossed an open area with a chair-like cairn, and then climbed more steeply up to Holt Peak, which was marked by a sign, and two off-trail cairns that I am still confused about.
Now, continuing forward, the looming shadow was of Pack Monadnock. I tried not to look forward too much, but I also reminded myself I'm not climbing Pack Monadnock on this hike. There was a wild off-trail collection of cairns, and not too long after, a stone-living-room-type area as well. I was shocked and delighted at how sunny the trail has become!
Finally, the trail entered New Hampshrie State Land and passed near a communication tower, but I could hear someone working, so I stayed on-trail to mind my business. After this, the trail descends slightly and turns onto the access toad for Temple Mountain, my second abandoned ski area for the day!
New England Lost Ski Areas Project: https://www.nelsap.org/nh/templemtn.html
New England Ski History: https://www.newenglandskihistory.com/NewHampshire/templemtn.php
The footing on the access road was relatively brutal, but there was a nice view of Pack Monadnock up high. There was a signed overlook, but I could not find a significant view and refused to add any more miles than necessary, since I still had to turn around and hike everything again!
Continuing down the access road, I had the distinct pleasure of YET AGAIN running into TWO grouses - at least I gaught a climpse of these monsters (after jumping out of my skin, naturally). The access road continued a gradual descent past and old(?) storage garage and soon enough came to a spot where the Wapack Trail turned left off the access road to follow a short spur trail to NH-101, which was an underhwelming as it sounds. My turn around moment was at 8.18 miles and 3 hours and 44 minutes.
On my first uphill climb, back up the access road, I downed a bag of pistachios and was passed by the communication tower worker, who was driving downhill in his massive truck. To put it lightly, the climb sucked. Just long enough to where I was approaching miserable, and naturally, the steepest part is right before the top. I saw one person near the top with his unleashed dogs, and I took a small detour off the Wapack Trail to snoop around the communication tower area, which was also the top of the old ski area.
The spur returning back to the Wapack Trail was heavily hidden by trees. The clouds rolled back in and I could see the high point of Holt Peak, which provided a feeling of impending demise (I fear I may also have been dramatic at this time). I was definitely feeling tired at this point, and really the only activity I had keeping me going was finding the town line markers along the mountain's ridge (most were tall, narrow stones).
I eventually passed someone who appeared to be a thru hiker with his dog near the first peak, re-entered the Cabot Skyline cooridoor, and I stopped at the same snack spot for another sitting break. I truly love any and all views of Mt. Monadnock. It felt like it was so late in the day, but it was only 11:45am, which was a needed confidence boost!
After my break I began to pass more and more people, enjoyed the second of the first two views, and comically passed a man hiking up hill who yelled "HEH" in an exasperated voice at me when I asked how his day was going.
Soon enough I was back down on Temple Road and the hardest substance on earth, pavement on tired feet. Thankfully this bit of "trail" went more quickly and I was soon enough back on "Old Road." There was one car parked at the Old Road/Temple Road junction, which turned out to be a trail runner (which was impressive considering the mud).
I could hear chainsaws through the woods which turned out to be the last house on the dirt road (right at the southern end of Old Road) doing yard work. The final uphill stretch on Old Road was emotionally brutal but physically fine, and then I was back on the dirt roads mindlessly walking back to the power cut. Almost there!
Back at the power cut, I was able to fully enjoy the views it offered - which included a distant view to Mt. Greylock! I never get to see Greylock from my hikes, so this was a fun treat. I passed a family near the Wapack Link junction where the older sister (no more than 8) was teaching the younger sister (no more than 5) how to hike properly, including foot technique and human contact etiquette, which was actually lovely to watch. Soon enough, I was trudging throught the mud and made it back to my car! A long hike, but a good one! I'm glad I did this hike third so my final Wapack Hike will be slightly less uneventful. And now... sleep!
Step-By-Step
- Start hike at Wapack parking area off of Temple Road.
- Follow Wapack Link.
- At terminus, turn right onto Wapack Trail southbound.
- At Turnpike Road, turn around.
- Hike Wapack Trail northbound to Peterborough Gap (NH-101).
- Retrace steps to car.
"Wapack Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
Section II. Pratt Mtn. to Barrett Mtn. [...]. Trailhead parking is available in a new parking area (sign: "Wapack Parking") across the highway from the entrance to Windblown (the former roadside parking area has now been posted no parking and hikers are not permitted to park on Windblown property). From this new parking area, a new connector trail, Wapack Link, ascends easily for 0.3 mi. to meet Wapack Trail. At Wapack Rd. the trail crosses NH 123/124; use caution on this busy road.
Section III. Kidder Mtn. Wapack Trail next crosses the lower western slopes of Kidder Mtn. (1,816 ft.). From the north side of NH 123/124, the trail follows Old Rindge Rd. for several yards, quickly bears left into the woods, passes close to a private residence, and then crosses an open field, site of a former downhill ski area. At 10.1 mi. Wapack Trail turns left on an old grassy road bordered by stone walls and crosses under a power line 150 yd. beyond. Here, blue-blazed Kidder Mtn. Trail (described below) diverges right, leading 0.9 mi. to the open summit of Kidder Mtn. Meanwhile, Wapack Trail descends to a junction with a gravel road from the left at a pond on the right. Here, the trail turns right onto a woods road, crosses a pond outlet, and ascends gradually to the Wildcat Hill - Conant Hill saddle, where there is an old homestead site to the right. The route descends gradually, still on the old woods road, and crosses the outlet of a beaver pond on the right. It then bears left where Todd Rd. diverges right at 11.4 mi. and continues to Nashua Rd. (the road from Temple to Jaffrey at 11.8 mi.
Section IV. Temple Mtn. Wapack Trail crosses Nashua Rd. and continues straight ahead along Temple Rd. 0.4 mi., bears right at a fork where Greenleaf Rd. diverges left, and then turns right in 30 yd. to begin climbing the south ridge of Temple Mtn. Trailhead parking is available 0.3 mi. from NH 123 via Greenleaf Rd. at the Belletette parking area, across the street from where the trail leaves Temple Rd. From this point north, Wapack Trail passes through private conservation land managed by the New England Forestry Foundation. Please observe the posted rules about no fires and no smoking.
The trail ascends moderately up the south end of Temple Mtn., which boasts several summits. This part of the trail has been named the Cabot Skyline in honor of longtime conservationist (and past AMC president) Tom Cabot. At 12.6 mi. a side path (sign) descends 40 yd. to Roger Myrick Outlook on the Sharon Ledges, with a view southeast and south. The grade eases on the main trail, and at 12.7 mi. another side path leads 40 yd. right to a southeast outlook. At 13.5 mi. blue-blazed Berry Pasture Trail (FOW) leaves left and descends 0.9 mi. and 750 ft. through blueberry pastures and down an old woods road. It ends at Mountain Rd., 0.6 mi. northeast of the Sharon Arts Center on NH 123. (About halfway down this trail, views west were opened with a large clear-cut during a timber harvest.) Wapack Trail, however, ascends steadily to Burton Peak (2,014 ft.) at 13.6 mi., where a short, blue-blazed loop trail on the left leads past good views west (also opened by the timber harvest). From here north, stone monuments mark the Sharon-Temple town line, which also follows this ridge.
Wapack Trail continues north along the ridge, crossing a knob with views east and west at 14.0 mi. It descends to a saddle and then ascends steeply to wooded and viewless Holt Peak (2,059 ft.), the highest point on Temple Mtn., at 14.6 mi. (A side path on the left leads to the true summit.) The trail descends to a col and then ascends easily to the Temple Mtn. Ledges at 15.1 mi., where there are cairns and views to the left. The trail once again descends and then ascends easily, passing just to the west of Temple Mtn.'s north summit. Wapack Trail then swings left past a communications tower on the right. At 15.7 mi., 50 yd beyond the tower, white-blazed Beebe Trail joins from the right, making a loop hike possible from NH 101.
Wapack Trail descends along the tower-access dirt road through the former Temple Mtn. Ski Area (now part of Temple Mtn. State Reservation), with views of Pack Monadnock from ski trail openings. At 16.3 mi. a connecting path diverges right and descends 130 yd. to Beebe Trail.
At the base of the descent through the former ski area, just before a steel gate and a right turn, Wapack Trail turns left off the access road. (The access road continues ahead 0.1 mi. to the lower terminus of Beebe Trail on the right and then another 80 yd. to a large parking area off NH 101 at the base of the old ski area, 0.1 mi. east of the entrance to Miller State Park. This is the best trailhead parking for Temple Mtn.) Wapack Trail passes through a brushy area and two gravel areas and reaches NH 101 in Peterborough Gap at 16.5 mi., a few yards east of the road up Pack Monadnock (Caution: Take extreme care when crossing NH 101, as sight distances are limited and automobile speeds are high.)
