Wapack Trail: Peterborough Gap to Northern Terminus (Miller State Park, Joanne Bass Bross Preserve, Wapack National Wildlife Refuge)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Distance: 11.45 miles
Elevation: 3,005 feet
Time: 6 hours, 25 minutes (5 hours, 44 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge, Sunrise 6, Wapack Trail
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge, Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge, Sunrise 6, Wapack Trail
The Hike
I took a day off hiking to watch my friend in the Boston Maraton, but I was back to the Wapack Trail the next morning! I had a sleepy drive to Miller State Park and was on the trail by 5:00am - there was only an empty ranger car in the parking lot and MANY stars. Temperatures were in the mid 30s and I finally got the uninsulated waterproof boots I've been complaining about not having for forever!
I started the hike by hiking across the parking lot to where all the trails begin and finding the sacred yellow-triangle blaze! The trail meandered briefly through woods before crossing the auto road, which then led to a rugged and rocky climb with stars shining overhead. Route 101 was relatively loud, but I could tell there would be some views on the descent. I was down to base layers after 20 minutes and could notice the sky brightening on the relatively open, slabby trail. I was a little nervous about making it to the top for sunrise since I was getting a later start on a longer and tougher trail, but I was right on schedule when I hit the one-mile mark.
The trail continued deeper into the woods as a lower abdomen pressure incresed, which was concerning. The trail had a good amount of walking breaks, which balanced out the steeper sections well. It sounded windy from the treetops, but the air was mostly still down low. The trail began to open up again and was blazed with red dots for the summit loop (I wouldn't learn until later that I accidentally missed a turn for the Wapack Trail and skipped a section, but I would make it up later. The summit loop comes to a great view looking at North Pack Monadnock and the surrounding lowlands! In the distance the Sandwich Range was visible, which was very fun to see.
From here, I rejoined the Wapack Trail to hike to the true summit, where I found a great sitting spot behind a picnic shelter where I had sweeping views to watch the sunrise from. There wasn't another soul up top, and the shelter controlled any wind that was coming through. The only bad thing that was happening was that I had eaten too big of a breakfast at the car so my tummy was not hungry for hot chocolate, which was devistating, but I had to obey.
With 10 minutes to go before sunrise I took a little walking tour of the summit area, exploring the fire tower and finding the USGS markers, along with some history of Miller State Park and the Air Quality Monitoring.
Miller State Park: New Hampshire's First State Park
A gift from three acres atop Pack Monadnock in 1891 for use as a "park or pleasure-ground," Miller State Park has grown to more then 530 acres. "Pack," an ancient Abenaki word meaning "small," contrasts its summit with nearby Mount Monadnock. The site has included a "mountain highway," two different hotels that each succumbed to fire, and a fire look-out tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. The park is named for Peterborough native Gen. James Miller.
The Air We Breathe
Take a deep breath. How do you feel? Everyday each person breathes over 3,000 gallons of air, and pound for pound of body weight, children breathe even more air than adults. Clean air is important to all of us. Air pollution can make it hard to breathe, especially when we are active outside. In New Hampshire, air pollution comes from many places, both in and outside our state - sometimes even from hundreds of miles away! Air pollutants such as ozone and small particles can harm people and our natural environment. Take a look around at the beautiful views from here. How far can you see?
How far can you see?: Small particles in the air reduce visibility and obscure our views. In many places in the northeast, the "haze" from air pollution reduces our views.
What is small particle pollution?: Small particle pollution is a complex misture of extremely small particles and liquid droplets. These small particles are smaller than human hair.
Where does small particle pollution come from?: Small particles come from sources such as diesel trucks and buses, motor vehicles, construction equipment, power plants, woodstoves, and wildfires. They can also be formed in the atmosphere when gases are changed by chemical reactions.
Ozone: Good Up High - Bad Nearby: Ozone (O3) is a colorless, odorless gas composed of three oxygen atoms. In the upper atmosphere ozone forms a natural protective layer that shields the Earth from the sun's harmful ultraviolet radiation. Close to the earth, however, gound-level ozone, also known as summertime smog, is harmful air pollution.
Where does ground-level ozone come from?: Ozone is created from pollutants, nitrogen oxides (NOx) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), that come from motor vehicles, industrial facilities and chemicals. These pollutants combine in the presence of sunlight and warm weather to form ozone.
How does air pollution affect your health?: Air pollution is a concern for all of us, especially for children, people with respiratory or heart disease, the elderly, and people active outdoors. Air pollution can damage lung tissue and make existing respiratory diseases such as asthma and bronchitis worse. Unhealthy levels of ozone and small particle pollution can limit your ability to take a deep breath. They can cause coughing, throat irritation, breathing discomfort, wheezing and shortness of breath. Very small particles are the greatest health concern because they pass through the nose and throat and get deep into the lungs. For people with heart or lung disease or older adults, small particles may increase the risk of cardiac arrest and premature death.
How can we keep our air clean?: When we drive to work or school, or use electricity, we make choices that affect air pollution because ozone and small particle pollution come from cars, buses, and power plants. Using energy efficiently helps to reduce air pollution. When we use less energy we help everyone breathe clean air and we save ourselves money too! We can all do our share to reduce air pollution and keep our air clean and healthy to breathe. Here's how you can help...
Measuring Air Pollution
Measuring Air Pollution in New Hampshire: New Hampshire has measured outdoor air pollution since the early 1960s at a variety of air monitoring stations throughout the state, similar to the one you see here. An air monitoring station has instruments to take in samples of air and measure the amount of pollutants in the air. The Department of Environmental Services uses air monitoring data to determine how clean our air is, to predict air pollution events, and to notify the public when pollution levels are high. This information helps protect public health and the natural environment.
What is meausred here?: This station collects information on pollutants and weather: ground-level ozone (O3); small particle pollution (PM2.5 and PM10); carbon monoxide (CO); sulfur dioxide (SO2); nitrogen oxides (NOy and NO); volatile organic compounds (VOCs)/weather information: wind speed; wind direction; temperature; rainfall; barometric pressure; relative humidity.
I went into the (unlocked!) bathroom and made at attempt at christening, but only produce what must have been the most resonant act of flatulance any privy has every experienced. Following my fanfare, the sun began to pop above the horizon and my act of taking 15,000 photos began. I checked out the Boston Overlook, fire tower again, and ever-changing landscapes as the orange light grew brighter. From the Wapack Trail South, there was an excellently framed view of Mt. Monadnock, which was very fun to watch get illuminated.
By the time the sun was up it was 39 degrees with a small breeze and gusts up to 10mph. I got to hear all the birds, chipmunks, and squirrels wake up and start their morning chores. I, as per usual, wish I brought my zoom lens! Some day I will learn. I saw one person walking the auto road just as I began to continue my hike.
The Wapack Trail travels back to the previously mentioned view north and then descends over easy ledges into a mossy woods, where it leaves Miller State Park and comes to a memorial outlook with more great views (and some traces of snow in rock crevices).
The woods on this north side of the mountain were much more lush and dense compared to the relatively open hardwood forest on the south side - I really was able to enjoy the sights and sounds of solitude.
There were seasonal views of both Pack and North Pack Monadnock from the long col, and then the trail entered a nature conservancy followed by the Wapack National Wildlife Refuge soon after.
Welcome to Wapack National Wildlife Refuge!
What is Wapack?: Established in 1972, Wapack was the first national wildlife refuge created in the state of New Hampshire. The refuge is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the federal agency responsible for conserving, protecting, and enhancing fish, wildlife, plants, and their habitats for the continuing benefit of the American people. Wapack is part of the National Wildlife Refuge System, the world's largest network of lands dedicated to wildlife conservation. At Wapack National Wildlife Refuge, WILDLIFE COMES FIRST!
Enjoying Wapack: Wapack Refuge is open from sunrise to sunset for hiking on designated trails. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing on trails is permitted when snow is present. The refuge has a carry-in/carry-out policy, so please take all trash with you.
I began my climb up North Pack Monadnock by being yelled at by the most insane bird call I've ever heard - somewhere between a turkey and a crow/raven. I also noticed that overall, the trail wasn't as blazed and the footbed was less worn in this area. It was also here that I realized Wapack meant Watatic to Pack Monadnock - incredible!
I passed the junction with the Cliff Trail, which seems like a fun side-path, but something I would save for another day, and then came to a swampy area that still had some frozen patches. Soon enough the trail continued through an eroded shallow chute-like area and then opened up to the open summit! Open summit meaning no tree canopy, but there was only a small view of Mt. Monadnock. There was a great view of the giant cairn marking the summit, though!
I was having a snack when someone else joined me at the summit from the Pack Monadnock side - I was really enjoying the almost butter packets I got on sale from Sierra. After shifting a little, I found a view back toward Pack Monadnock, where there was a clear difference in the deciduous and coniferous forests.
I followed a herd path to what AllTrails calls the true summit, which was just more open slab, and I have no idea if it was real or just a silly short side trip. I shoved my way through a bush to get back onto the Wapack Trail for my final "new" descent, and immediately crossed two people and their puppy who did not have great recall. They seemed confused why I was descending if I didn't spend the night and wasn't doing a shuttle hike. I told them it was simply a nice day for a long hike, and they agreed!
The trail traversed two small "icebergs" and began to descent over slippery rocks, eventually leading to a blowdown area and then more slippery ledges. The puppy eventually made its way back to me and was my guide dog for 3-5 minutes while it's owner yelled through the woods... at least it was cute!
The ledges open up to meadowy area with partial views north, followed by a lovely ramble through relatively open woods with some bog bridges. I continued through a small mountain laurel grove and made my way to the parking lot - the northern terminus of the Wapack Trail! Besides a sore glute, I was feeling pretty good at my turnaround point! There was a trailhead kiosk and a unique boot brushing station...
Are your shoes clean? You could be spreading invasive species on the trail. Clean your shoes. Stop invasive species. Mud and seeds carry invasive plants. Use the boot brush under this sign to clean off before and after hiking.
I turned around at the parking lot - 1.4 miles back up North Pack and 6 miles back to the car, plus or minus some lollygagging! From the meadowy area I realized that I could see Mt. Washington behind the Sandwich Range, which was unnecessarily exciting for me. A couple of trail runners passed me, and I continued to have a relatively easy climb back on up. The sun was feeling hot up top, which felt great. I decided to not have a break at the summit becuase I had leftover pizza in the car beckoning my name!
I continued right along down North Pack Monadnock and into the col, which felt mighty long at this point in the morning (something I love about sunrise hikes is how most of the day is morning, I was exhausted and it felt like 6pm but it was barely 10). The climb back up Pack Monadnock was a sweaty one, but I was fueled by the bluebird skies. I enjoyed the view of the Sandwich Range and Mt. Washington from that same spot just before the summit of Pack Monadnock, and I blasted through the summit to get to my pizza!
I learned on my initial descent that the turn I originally missed was right when the slabs opened up and I turned off my headlamp - go figure. I was flirting with also hiking up Temple Mountain to take some miles off my next Wapack hike, but I was tired and satisfied with my hike - figured I wouldn't push it. It was fun seeing the rugged trail for the first time on my descent!
I caught a final glimpse of Mt. Monadnock and made it down the steepest and scrambliest part of the trail right before the auto road. I hiked the uneventful spur from the main trail junction in Miller State Park to NH-101, and then made my way back to my car, which had a "sorry we missed you! please pay the fee") plackard on it - there's a HEAVY focus on the day-use fee for Miller State Park. Somehow seems more intense than Mt. Monadnock's. Oh well, I chit-chatted with the cashier for a bit and then started my drive home!
Step-By-Step
- Hike along the yellow-triangle-blazed Wapack Trail northbound from the Miller State Park parking lot to Pack Monadnock, North Monadnock, and the northern terminus.
- At northern terminus, turn around and retrace steps.
"Wapack Trail" from Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide, 5th Ed. (2021)
Section V. Pack Monadnock and North Pack Monadnock. This extended ridge culminates in two open peaks: Pack Monadnock (2.285 ft.) and North Pack Monadnock (2,264 ft.). (Pack is an American Indian word meaning "little.") The mountains stand between the towns of Peterborough and Temple and are well-known landmarks in southern New Hampshire and eastern Massachusetts. The summit and most of the southern slopes of Pack Monadnock are in a small state reservation, General James Miller Park. The entrance to the park (sign) is just off NH 101, 0.1 mi. west of the Temple Mtn. parking area. An admission fee is required. The road is gated when the park is closed; see nhstateparks.org for current fees and operating hours.
Wapack Trail crosses NH 101 just east of the state park sign, enters the woods, and reaches a trail junction 25 yd. east of the state park parking area (sign at the east end of the parking area: "foot trails"). The blue-blazed trail on the right is the former route of Wapack Trail and is now Marion Davis Trail (described below). Wapack Trail is more scenic but also somewhat more difficult than Marion Davis Trail, particularly for descent.
Wapack Trail continues north (left) from the trail junction near the parking area; crosses the automobile road in 0.1 mi.; and immediately scrambles up a steep, rocky pitch. Turning northwest, it skirts the crest of ledges with views southwest and passes two crevice caves. The trail turns briefly east, leading through woods and over ledges before crossing a hollow at 17.2 mi. It then runs north, angling upward parallel to the automobile road through a beautiful spruce forest. At 17.8 mi. Wapack Trail reaches a junction with red-blazed Summit Loop Trail (also known as Red Dot Trail or Red Circle Trail; described below), which leads to the right and continues straight ahead. Wapack Trail turns sharply right here and ascend, coinciding with Summit Loop Trail, to a parking area and fire tower on the summit of Pack Monadnock at 17.9 mi. (Note: Because several trails leave from the summit area, look carefully for the yellow triangles when descending to make sure you are on the intended route.)
Wapack Trail continues north from the north end of the summit road, to the left of a stone lean-to (sign: "Wapack"), following a gravel path at first and then descending gradually over ledges. About 0.1 mi. from the summit, at an open ledge and picnic area with a fine view north and west, Raymond Trail (described below) diverges on the left. (The sign for this trail is a short distance downhill to the left, where Raymond Trail crosses Summit Loop Trail.) Wapack Trail bears right, soon crosses Summit Loop Trail, and descends over ledges. At 18.1 mi., at a left turn, a side path (sign: "Joanne Bass Bross Memorial Scenic Outlook") leads 35 yd. right to a viewpoint east and northeast. Wapack Trail moderately descends the wooded north slope past a spring and crosses a col at 18.6 mi. In 0.1 mi. it passes briefly through the Nature Conservancy's Joanne Bass Bross Preserve (sign), and in 100 yd. it enters the 1,672-acre Wapack National Wildlife Refuge (sign). Wapack Trail crosses another col and ascends through fine spruce woods over a knoll (sometimes called Middle Peak) at 19.2 mi. At 19.6 mi. it reaches the junction with Cliff Trail on the right. (Cliff Trail, described below, is a longer and rougher but more scenic alternate route from here to the summit of North Pack Monadnock.)
From its southern junction with Cliff Trail, Wapack Trail continues north along the ridge then swings right and ascends fairly steeply to the summit of North Pack Monadnock, marked by a large cairn, at 20.3 mi.; Cliff Trail rejoins from the right. (In the reverse direction, look carefully for yellow blazes where Wapack Trail descends southwest off the summit, to the left of a southwest outlook.) Ledges around the summit area provide partial views in several directions; the best views are at 0.2 mi. and 0.5 mi. down Cliff Trail.
From the summit, Wapack Trail descends generally north at a moderate grade through spruce forest, with occasional steeper pitches. (Ledges in this section may be slippery when wet and are often icy in late fall and spring.) The trail continues down through an area of overgrown pastures with occasional views north, passing the last view at 21.0 mi. (In this area, take care to follow blazes in order to distinguish the trail from other paths.) In another 0.1 mi. Wapack Trail descends a steep, rocky pitch and swings left at an easier grade. It traverses a flat area and crosses a brook at 21.6 mi. At 21.8 mi. a spur path leads 0.1 mi. left to a trailhead parking area on Mountain Rd., where the original route continues ahead, descending to Mountain Rd. in 100 yd.
To reach the trailhead parking area by car, from NH 31 at the blinking light in Greenfield go south 2.8 mi. and turn right (west) onto Russell Station Rd. In 0.8 mi. turn right onto Mountain Rd. At 2.7 mi. from NH 31, just beyond the older trailhead, the parking area is on the left.
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