Mt. Garfield via Garfield Trail (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Garfield via Garfield Trail (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 12.47 miles
Elevation: 3,212 feet

Time: 6 hours, 31 minutes (5 hours, 24 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Out-and-Back
Hiking Challenges: 52 Hike Challenge 2024

The Hike

It's Veterans Day Weekend! Also, my first weekend free of marching band. I had two goals: hike a lot in the morning, and relax a lot in the afternoons. This plan would start with tackling a repeat 4000-Footer that I hiked last winter (when I inevitably start working on my winter 48, I want to have a complete set of 48 peaks with no double-dipping between lists), so I set my sights on Mt. Garfield! I had a sleepy, WINDY drive up to Hooksett where I had a dreadfully unsatisfying bathroom break, followed by another dreadfully unsatisfying bathroom break at the McDonalds in Lincoln. The crazy wind did not lighten up during the back half of my drive, which kept things interesting to say the least!

I enjoyed a beautiful sunrise alpenglow after leaving Lincoln, illuminating the white mountaintops with a stunning orange light. I turned on to Gale River Loop Road and delightfully drove to the trailhead, which was admittedly much nicer than doing the road walk! There was a light dusting of snow on the ground and the parking area was surprisingly full. I noticed that there was a large group of hikers getting ready, so I quickly got my belongings together and got to work!

[6:59am - Start of Hike on Garfield Trail]

I started my hike, hiking past the group (they were very kind and friendly! one person asked where I drove from and said "see you later!") and turning into the woods. It was a chilly but lovely 31 degrees out - the air was so crisp in the best way. I was quickly ripped out of my tranquility when I realized my watch didn't charge all night. I did discover I could change the settings so that it only tracks GPS and not heart rate, which bought me a few more hours of tracking.

The ground was a little wet/muddy/frozen, so I was glad I chose to wear my waterproof boots (also for a little added warmth). My puffy came off as the Garfield Trail left the Forest Protection Area and my fleece came off soon after that, leaving me just in base layers. 

After some meandering and undulation, the trail swings onto an old road, where the grade remains incredibly easy with occasionally rocky footing. There was just a little more snow on the ground at this point, but still no more than a dusting. I arrived at a familiar, confusing water crossing area, first at the Thompson Brook, then the Spruce Brook (care was needed here), and later the Spruce Brook again. Afterwards, the Garfield Trail crosses a snowmobile trail (bridges ~50 feet away from the trail on both the left and right), and continues its easy ascent.

Footing remained good and easy with some satisfying crunchy mud. The trail easily crossed another easy brook and then the grade "steepens," but only becomes moderate at best. There were a couple of small critter poops on rocks - no idea what they were and I tragically didn't take any photos. I was doing a poor job of not sweating, as per usual, as I climbed up to Burnt Knoll, where I saw my first needle ice of the season! I also crossed paths with a guy coming down who was in a full, oversized, cotton sweat suit playing music on his phone and absolutely reeking of marijuana - glad he was having a fun morning!

The top of Burnt Knoll was pretty and then the Garfield Trail descended to begin the switchbacks. At this point, the dusting of snow was more of a consistent light covering. At the first switchback, I encountered some ice for the first time all hike. It was beginning to get breezier and colder, too. The flat stretches of trail were either wet or icy, which was exciting to discover! The light coating of snow was now about 1" deep, not requiring any traction. I did get to see the fattest Grey Jay I've ever seen!

The trail got a bit steeper as it climbed to the third to last switchback. The clouds up above were still present but starting to brighten. At the final switchback, I put my fleece back on and found another Grey Jay. It was SUPER friendly and almost demanding food (I did not comply). I did get at least 500 photos, though. 

On the last gentle stretch, the trees quickly became nice and crispy and some peek-a-views began to appear between the trees. I was starting to feel a little chilly, and my sweat-soaked bum was stinging, but I was full of energy and excitement as I entered the Garfield Ridge Campsite Forest Protection Area - I was getting close!

[9:07am - Garfield Ridge Trail]

The Garfield Trail terminates at the Garfield Ridge Trail soon after entering the Forest Protection Area. My hair was officially frozen and I might have hit the gas a little too hard once the trail started to get pretty - I had to take a moment to catch my breath. It was significantly colder up here, so I took a moment to put my puffy on for the final climb. I also realized my water bladder's hose froze... oops! While I was physically prepared for a winter hike, I was NOT mentally ready for the switch!

I started the steep climb up, crossing paths with two hikers coming down. It was actually easier to climb up this time with the rock still exposed. There was 2-3" of snow on the ground here, still providing good traction. Soon enough, I was out of breath, and came to the view! I audibly gasped at how stunning it was.

[9:20am - Mt. Garfield Summit]

Mt. Lafayette and Mt. Lincoln were still in the clouds, but Mt. Liberty and Mt. Flume were standing proud. The sun was trying to come out with moderate success through the clouds. Cannon was peeking out from Lafayette's shoulder getting ready for ski season, and Owl's Head was chilling down in the Pemi, which was acting almost as a mixing bowl for the clouds whipping around. The Twins and Bonds were in all the clouds, and the summit of Mt. Garfield was coated in rime ice. Just beautiful! It was 18 degrees and winds were at a constant 25 miles an hour, putting wind chills into the single digits. I took a bunch of photos, but did not stay long due to the conditions. On my way out, I plunged through some ice into a puddle full of mud... glad I had the waterproof boots on!

The steep descent was slow, steady, but not too bad. Similar to getting down from North Kinsman toward Kinsman Notch. I had a better time doing it on this day than when it had full snow cover!

[9:33am - Garfield Trail]

Back at the Garfield Trail junction, I took the puffy off and tied it around my waist to hopefully warm up my frozen bum, and began my easy, long descent. I crossed paths with two trios heading up soon after, and one guy, who I can only imagine gets called "dude" and "bro" by his friends, said "man I saw you pull in this morning you crushed that!" - which was a delightful ego boost!

As I continued my downward hike, swimming upstream, I crossed two duos close to each other, and then two more, followed by the large group from before. They seemed to be in their 60s on average, all seasoned hikers, just enjoying the hike! The friendly guy from before mentioned we'd already seen each other, as if I could forget them!

Later on, I passed another large group that wildly varied in prepardness. They were led by a french Canadian man in a cotton t-shirt asking if I took any good photos, followed by folks ranging in ages from probably 21-51 years old. Some were in full winter gear, others in shorts, some in hoodies, and one in running shorts and a Melanzana microgrid hoodie, which heavily implies they must know at least a little about hiking? I was perplexed by them, but I hope they had a great hike and didn't freeze to death!

I slowly went into the void for a while, as this descent was long and easy. I noticed at least five times during the hike that there were gaggles of geese flying and honking overhead, maybe that's their migration? I slipped on some patches of black ice a few times, but never fell, and I had to stop MANY times to pee - cheers to being hydrated!

The sun was officially shining proudly after I went up and over Burnt Knoll. I crossed paths with more people as I was now on my final final descent. Time had generally been moving quickly, but then I hit the straight fire road, which was a bummer but also completely fine. I stop for a minute to photograph a red squirrel, who was almsot posing for me. After zoning out for a while, I made it to the Thompson and Spruce Brook crossings and was officially in the final stretch!

Tragically, I realized that AllTrails got paused about 30 minutes ago, which was just a bummer. The mud was MUCH squishier at this point, giving me one more emotional high-five for wearing the waterproof boots. Before I knew it, I was descending back to the VERY full parking lot! It was now a balmy 39 degrees, and I began my long trek home.

[11:21am - End of Hike]

Step-By-Step

- Park at the winter trailhead at Gale River Loop Road just off of US-3.

- Road walk to Garfield Trail trailhead.

- Follow Garfield Trail for its entirety.

- At terminus/first jct., continue right/straight onto Garfield Ridge Trail.

- Summit Mt. Garfield.

- Retrace steps to car.

“Garfield Trail”  from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)

[Mt. Garfield summit (4,501 ft.) via Garfield Ridge Trail: 5.0 mi., 3,050 ft, 4:00] 

WMNF This blue-blazed trail runs from Gale River Loop Rd. (FR 92) to Garfield Ridge Trail 0.2 mi. east of the summit of Mt. Garfield, which is bare rock with magnificent views. Most of the way the trail follows an old tractor road used for access to the former fire lookout, and its grades are easy to moderate all the way to Mt. Garfield, except for the short, steep pitch on Garfield Ridge Trail just below the summit. The trailhead for Garfield Trail is reached by leaving the south side of US 3 at a small parking area 0.3 mi. west of its intersection with Trudeau Rd. (a location sometimes called Five Corners) and 4.1 mi. east of its jct. with NH 141. Avoiding a right fork, follow FR 92 south for 1.2 mi. and then swing left and cross a bridge to a parking lot on the right. (Straight ahead on this road, it is 1.6 mi. to the trailhead for Gale River Trail.) FR 92 is not open to public vehicular use in winter; plowed parking is available at the road’s entrance off US 3. Garfield Trail lies within the watershed of a municipal water supply, and hikers and campers should take care not to pollute any of the streams in this watershed.

        Garfield Trail begins to the right of the parking lot, climbing an embankment and following the top of the north bank of the South Branch of Gale River through fine woods with many large hemlocks. At 0.7 mi., the trail descends, swings right toward the river, and then turns left onto the old fire lookout access road. It climbs slowly away from the river, heading generally south, and crosses Thompson Brook and two branches of Spruce Brook and then a snowmobile trail. Garfield Trail recrosses Spruce Brook at 1.2 mi. and continues its long, gradual climb. (Although these crossings usually are not difficult, in high water, you can use the snowmobile trail to avoid all three by bushwhacking up the east side of Thompson Brook, turning right on the snowmobile trail, and crossing bridges over both brooks - and also crossing Garfield Trail between the bridges - then bushwhacking up the west side of Spruce Brook back to Garfield Trail.)

        At 2.6 mi., the trail crosses a small brook by a large flat rock, and at 3.0 mi. it crosses a ridge (once burned over and known as Burnt Knoll) in a birch forest and descends slightly. At 3.3 mi. the trail swings left and ascends moderately on several sweeping switchbacks in mostly coniferous woods. It reaches a blowdown patch at 4.1 mi. Here, the trail turns sharply left and climbs easily to the east; then it swings south around the east side of the cone of Mt. Garfield to a jct. with Garfield Ridge Trail, which enters from the left, ascending from Garfield Ridge Campsite. The summit of Mt. Garfield is reached in 0.2 mi. by turning right and following a steep, rocky section of Garfield Ridge Trail to its high point and then scrambling over the ledges on the left for another 60 yd. to the foundation of the old fire lookout.

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