Sunday, October 1, 2023

Mt. Meader, Eagle Crag, Baldfaces, & Eastman Mtn. (White Mountain National Forest)

Mt. Meader, Eagle Crag, Baldfaces, & Eastman Mtn. (White Mountain National Forest)

Distance: 15.42 miles
Elevation: 4,222 feet
Time: 9 hours, 23 minutes (8 hours, 29 minutes moving)
Hike Type: Loop
Hiking Challenges: 52 With-a-View; 52 Hike Challenge


The Hike
'Twas the morning after our first marching band competition of the season (we didn't get last!!), and suddenly I was up at 2:30am for the long drive up near Evan's Notch to hike a big loop encompassing Mt. Meader, Eagle Crag, North Baldface, South Baldface, and Eastman Mountain! I wasn't able to secure a hiking buddy for this one, so it would be a long, lovely solo day in the woods. I also wanted to try out a new system of journaling - instead of taking notes on my phone the whole time or doing a big journaling session once back at the car, I would stop at each individual peak to jot down some notes. I think this worked well for this particular hike since there were so many peaks. I was definitely able to record more than I would have if I waited until the very end to do it all, but also still missed out on some during the hike, but I think I'm okay with that if it means my phone is away for longer... Okay, ramble over!

It was a very sleepy drive, but I reminded myself that autumn is short and I need to make the most of it while I can. The sky was dark and hazy in Boston and foggy up north with some VERY intense patches of dense fog. I felt an emptiness in my heart traveling up I-95 instead of I-93... the NH welcome center just isn't the Hooksett rest area... I did learn that the NH welcome center is basically a giant car camping area, even with all the no camping signs, which is good to know for future reference. Further up, I was desperate for breakfast and DEVISTATED to learn that the Conway Cumberland Farms is not open at ungodly hours. I ended up getting a bunch of snacks from the Circle K right where NH-16 and NH-113 split from each other... which was... fine. I love me a PopTart, but she does not sustain me. 

My drive continued on and boy was I sleepy. I kept on munching on miscelaneous snacks to keep me going when I almost hit a bat?! That definitely woke me up a bit - even worse that it was during a period of thick fog. The sky finally began to brighten as I pulled into the Baldface Circle Trail parking area, which is a large parking lot with... TOILETS!!! There are few things I love more than a composting toilet, I christened her near immediately. Interestingly enough, the toilet paper roll was on a rectangular stick, so it couldn't turn. I was still delighted, nonetheless. I rested my eyes for about ten minutes before being woken up by a bunch of people arrive right around 6:45am - my cue to get suited up and start my adventure! (This may be my longest-written opening of my journaling career so far...).


Step 1: Parking Area to Mt. Meader Trail
The first part of the hike was along NH-113, traveling northbound. The roadwalk was nice and easy, shrouded in a spooky, but not dangerous, fog, soon crossing the Charles Brook on a road bridge. The trees down here were in the early stages of turning for autumn, with some showing a brilliant yellow. There were some nice homes along this road, and the trail officially begins on a logging road on the left after Bald Face St. (Private). There was a temporary trail marker sign pointing onto the logging road and a couple "Master Logger Certified" signs down on the ground. Curious when this logging took place. 


Step 2: Mt. Meader Trail
The Mt. Meader Trail follows the grassy, but not overgrown logging road, with sounds of the Mill Brook in the distance. The trail skirts the backsides of a few camps and homes, with one particularly spooky, rusted mobile home just off-trail. The sun was beginning to peek through the morning haze and give the trees a dim golden hue, which complimented their pastel-colored leaves. 


The trail then joins the Mill Brook, which was just lovely to hike along. The grades here were all easy and there were many spots to dip one's feet in the water... if it were not October! There was one particularly fantastic swimming hole just before the trail enters the White Mountain National Forest.


The next landmark is the spur-trail to Brickett Falls, which is worth the minimal-effort trip to go visit. A short, easy path leads to an opening in the trees where the water cascades down. The sun had just begun to really shine on the rocks, which made for some lovely lighting. It looks like there was a herd path that continued on to turn this spur into a loop, but I stayed on the blazed trail to return back to the Mt. Meader Trail.




The Mt. Meader Trail continues its journey through the woods, crossing a wet section of rotted board walks and a few small streams, and eventually leading to the dreaded switchbacks (which truly weren't that bad). 


The switchbacks were wide, so any steep portions were rewarded with a walking break. The forest began to change, and soon enough the trail began to ease up and lead to the first of MANY views for the day. Its fun to look back at this first view, because when I saw it for the first time I was absolutely gobsmacked, but it is definitely one of the more underwhelming views from my hike, at least in terms of clarity. With some maneuvering, I was able to see my whole hike for the day - Eagle Crag, North Baldface, the ridiculously beautiful geology of South Baldface, and Eastman Mtn., which looking comically far away (hint: it was). I wrung out my sweaty shirt here, took a bunch of photos, and then continued onward. 




The Mt. Meader Trail dipped back into the woods for a short bit where I saw the first of MANY moose tracks, walked along some beautiful mosses (including my new favorite squishy one!), climbed up a few rock slabs to hit the more magnificent view from Mt. Meader's ledges. Here, a much clearer view of my journey for the day was to be seen - wow! There was an undercast and thick haze into Maine - I was nervous about coming all this way for a "view hike" because it had been so hazy recently - but I definitely chose a good day. The fall colors on this side of the mountain were a muted pastel, all beautiful. I took a nice break in the warm sun where I had my first journaling break (and snack break!). 



The last bit of the Mt. Meader Trail dipped back into the woods and easily climbed to its terminus with the Meader Ridge Trail and the Basin Rim Trail. 



Step 3: Meader Ridge Trail
The Meader Ridge Trail starts in an open area with a rock floor surrounded by different, lovely mossses. The footing varied from hard rock to soft needles to wet stream, but the forest was always lovely. The trail passed a couple views, the first obstructed but the second was very open looking into the Mill Brook Valley [EDIT: it looks like this is a "recent" reroute of trail (could be over 50 years old, I don't plan to dig too deep on this) - as the USGS map for the area shows the Meader Ridge Trail going up and over the true summit of Mt. Meader, which the current route does not].



There was a signed view spur on the right that opens to a "large open ledge with a restricted view of the Baldfaces and Carter Dome" - I planned to check it out because why not, but then I saw the first 10ish feet of this spur was shouded in ADVANCED MUD. At least 2ft deep in spots, and fully unavoidable. I wasn't about to play that game, so I said "see you later" and continued along my journey. 


The trail continued to gently roll up and down with a moose's tracks guiding me along. There were a good amount of flies about, but none were biting. They were just the big ones that buzz loudly in your ear. Occasionally I would catch a whiff of that unfortunately well-known "wildfire smell" - and I couldn't help but notice my lungs were not overly thrilled with me [EDIT TO ADD: as I'm writing this, a full week later, my lungs are still not back to normal. Took three days of Prednisone and am starting to get back to normal... woof...]. 


The trail meandered up and down through different beautiful cols. One of which had a really cool mossy geological... something. Another had moose AND bear poop! At one point I compared my footprint with the moose's and noticed that the width of our feet are the same (which is truly impressive for the moose because I have mammoth feet)!



There were many many boardwalks that traversed areas of advanced mud, most in good conditions. The latter part had a few scrambly sections (that I guess the moose were able to get up?!), but nothing too bad, and then eventually enters the Alpine Zone, and soon after arrives at the open summit of Eagle Crag!


This summit took my breath away. Views in most directions: The Baldfaces looming ahead, then the Carter-Moriah Range, then the rugged Royces to the north, and then the hazy mountains into Maine. Similar to the views from Mt. Hayes last week, there was a distinct line where the haze was thicker, which was neat. I simply could not get over how beautiful this area and this day was! It was also fun to observe how the leaves on the ME side of the mountains were a lighter pastel, while the leaves in the Wild River Valley were incredibly vibrant. I lamented about how daunting the Baldfaces appeared, I cried over how far Eastman Mountain looked, I took way too many photos, took a nice snack break, journaled some, and eventually reluctantly got a move on. At this point I was 6.62 miles into my hike, 4 hours and 11 minutes, and JUST ran into my first people! 





The Meader Ridge Trail terminates soon after via a scenic, short descent, to the Baldface Circle Trail.


Step 4: Baldface Circle Trail
I truly thought I had seen it all at this point, but I was not ready for the grandeur that the Baldface Circle Trail was about to offer. The trip from Eagle Crag to North Baldface took me a comical amount of time not because it was overly strenuous, but simply because I could not put my camera down! The trail starts with a few steep descents into an area with some more bog bridges, and then climbs to the open ridge which is enough to inspire the deadest of souls. 


The views to North Baldface continued to be daunting, but that was all made up for with the expansive views into the Wild River Valley, absolutely popping in fall color. I'm having a hard time writing about this section because it was just stunning.



The trail begins to climb slightly more (but never too dreadfully) after the Bicknell Ridge Trail leaves on the left, and the views just become more amazing. There were a few sections of steeper scrambles, but all were quickly rewarded with more incredible views. Aside from the foliage, a favorite view was seeing the ridge I just hiked from a higher up vantage point.




The trail dipped back into the woods for another steeper scramble, eventually popping out on the absolutely incredible summit of North Baldface. The final bit of trail reminded me of North Moat - steep climb in trees to a full 360 view - absolutely incredible. I couldn't believe how clear the view to Washington was from here, and I especially loved the view to the Montalban Ridge. I was even able to see some hikers up on South Baldface about a mile away! Another break was had here. I was DEFINITELY tired at this point, and I did not do a good job packing fun or calorie-dense snacks today, but I was excited to see what the next couple of summits had to offer. 






I had the summit mostly to myself and met a couple as I was packing up. The woman with them was very nervous that I planned to fully descend the Baldface Circle Trail and I reassured her that I was taking the long route. The trail truly plummeted down from North Baldface into a wooded area - truth be told, the needle-covered ground felt nice after all the rock-walking. I passed a few more people, made my way through a pine-tree carwash, all while enjoying the incredible views. 




I traveled through another wooded area and then eventaully popped out on my fourth summit of the day - South Baldface! There was a large group of teens up there, so I stayed off to the side for a short snack and journal break while enjoying the view of Mt. Washington. The teens packed up and headed slightly off-summit to enjoy different views, so I took that as my opportunity to speed off. I did overhear a conversation between a woman and the teens about a bear that she passed down on the trail - yikes!



The trail from the summit of South Baldface to the Baldface Knob Trail was fully exposed and absolutely stunning. It gave similar vibes to the Red Ridge Trail coming down from North Moat (another similarity to that hike). I also compared this hike to the loop I did around Middle Sister and Mt. Chocorua - a wide loop with LOTS of views the whole time. The trail was never too steep and had truly incredible, flowy geology?? I wish I knew more about rocks, becuase it was so cool! A view highlight was looking back past North Baldface and seeing the Meader Ridge - I've really covered some distance!




At one point I turned around to check out South Baldface and WOW. Truly was otherworldly. I picked such a great day for this incredible hike. Eventually, the Baldface Circle Trail continues down the "terrifying" slabs and the Baldface Knob Trail turns off on the right.




Step 5: Baldface Knob Trail
The Baldface Knob Trail was just more beauty. I particularly loved seeing Bald Knob and Eastmand Mountain looming ahead (which somehow still seemed far??). The views toward both Baldfaces were still beautiful, and I was EXHAUSTED, but happy. I took a short stop at Bald Knob to drain my bladder and throw in some electrolytes, and then had a steep descent to the Bald Knob-Eastman Mountain col. A quote from my journal: "I love hikes that beat the sh*t out of me."




Step 6: Eastman Mountain Trail
I knew this would be a mental challenge - and it was. 0.8 miles, two ways, is an additional 1.6 miles, and I was tired at this point. I reminded myself the Sunday scaries are cancelled, fall is short, and its a beautiful day, and continued ahead! The Eastman Mountain Trail started on relatively flat ground through a beautiful birch forest, filled with beautiful colors. I chanted to myself "I can do hard things" ad nauseum.



Further down the trail, it begins to climb to the summit more steeply through a conifer forest, and then meanders along a short ridge to a summit cairn and obstructed views in most directions. I took a short break here to pound down some electrolytes, do my last bit of mountain-top journaling, and then retraced my steps back to the previous junction, only passing two people (one on my ascend, one on my descent), and spooking a grouse. 


Step 7: Slippery Brook Trail
It was finally time! I was quickly greeted by a fesity red squirrel and a steep descent off the ridge. The trail left the birch forest back into a conifer forest and paralleled many different drainages of different levels of wetness. I was dehydrated, but unfortunately my water filter was not on me (whoops) and I had recently realized it was in my pack ALL winter, so it definitely froze and wouldn't do much for filtering anyway. 



I passed a few people heading up and one person heading down, and naturally when I passed down downward-hiker I slipped and my calf cramped. If anything, at least I'm graceful! The trail bottomed out in a beautiful woods, passed a confusing area, crossed a branch of the Chandler Brook (not sure which order those two events occured in), eventually rejoined the Baldface Circle Trail, and then even better, arrived and terminated at Circle Junction!




I took the brief side trip to Emerald Pool to cross it off the list, but I was ready for the car. The final mileish of trail felt like a Lincoln Woods-length of hike (never ending), but I kept putting one foot in front of the other, made it back to NH-113, and then back to the car! It cleaned up and hydrated nice and slowly, with a bit more of final journaling. Honestly my favorite part of the end wasn't finishing, but seeing everyone I had passed at different points throughout the day ending all at the same time and at the same place. One final bit of reflection - I think this was the first time I've done a hike where I've had ZERO cell service at all. Not at the trailhead or any of the summits - it was quite nice.


My drive back was a long, painful slog, but I managed. The worst part was suffering through the Fryeburg Fair traffic to get the North Conway McDonalds.. only to learn that its closed for renovations. I was HEARTBROKEN. I got McDonalds down in Ossipee, and did my Sunday grocery shopping at the Hannaford's off NH-16, and slowly noshed on Frosted Cheerios for the next two hours until I was back in my warm bed. This was an incredible hike which was well-worth the painful drive(s) and week+ of lung dysfunction! Next time, I would likely skip Eastman and pack much better food. 


Step-By-Step
- Park at Baldface Circle Trail parking.
- Start hike by turning right onto NH 113.
- Follow NH 113 North.
- Soon after passing Bald Face Street (Private), turn left onto Mt. Meader Trial.
- Hike Mt. Meader Trail to the ledges of Mt. Meader and then to the terminus.
- At terminus, turn left onto Meader Ridge Trail.
- Follow Meader Ridge Trail to Eagle Crag, and then the terminus.
- At terminus, continue onto Baldface Circle Trail.
- Follow Baldface Circle Trail to summits of North and then South Baldfaces.
- At next junction after descending South Baldface, turn right onto Baldface Knob Trail.
- At terminus, continue straight onto Eastman Mtn. Trail. 
- At summit, turn around.
- At the same junction, turn right onto Slippery Brook Trail.
- At terminus, continue right onto Baldface Circle Trail.
- At circle junction, turn right to continue on Baldface Circle Trail (optional side trip to Emerald Pool). 
- Follow Baldface Circle Trail to NH 113.
- At NH 113, turn right and hike back to parking area.


"Mt. Meader Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This trail runs from the west side of NH 113, 0.6 mi. north of the entrance to Baldface Circle Trail and 1.4 mi. South o the road to the Basin Recreation Area, to a jct. with Meader Ridge and Basin Rim trails on the ridge crest at an easterly knob of Mt. Meader. Limited roadside parking is available; do not block the entrance to the trail, which starts on a private logging road with a telephone pole on the south side (no sign in 2021). In winter, parking is very limited. (Note: There is a hiker sign and parking for a privately owned trail system on the west side of NH 113, 0.1 mi. farther north; this is not the trailhead for Mt. Meader Trail.) 
        From NH 113, Mt. Meader Trail follows the logging road, bearing left in 70 yd. at a fork where an older road diverges right. The yellow-blazed trail bears left again at 0.3 mi. through an area where several logging roads diverge, follows the north side of Mill Brook, enters the WMNF at 0.7 mi., and crosses an overgrown skid road at 0.9 mi. At 1.0 mi., the trail passes a yellow-blazed side path left (sign) that rises easily 0.1 mi. to Brickett Falls. Mt. Meader Trail crosses a small brook and soon turns left uphill, off the logging road. The trail crosses a brook above a small cascade, crosses another stream twice, and at 2.1 mi. turns right and begins a steep climb by switchbacks up the heel of the ridge. Mt. Meader Trail turns sharply left at the top of the heel at 2.5 mi., passes an outlook south, and climbs through fine spruce woods. Coming out on open ledges with excellent views at 2.9 mi., the trail soon reaches the east knob of Mt. Meader.

"Meader Ridge Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This yellow-blazed trail runs along the ridge crest from the jct. with Mt. Meader and Basin Rim trails on the east knob of Mt. Meader to the jct. with Baldface Circle Trail and Eagle Link, 0.2 mi. south of Eagle Crag. 
        From the east knob of Mt. Meader, Meader Ridge Trail descends slightly in a southwest direction, climbs out of a sag, and in 0.2 mi. passes just south of the true summit of Mt. Meader. Descending again, with a small intervening ascent, the trail passes two restricted views and then an excellent open vista to the east. At 0.4 mi., just beyond the best eastern outlook, and side path (sign) leads right (west) 100 yd. up to a large open ledge with a restricted view of the Baldfaces and Carter Dome.
        Meader Ridge Trail passes the deepest col of the ridge at 0.6 mi., where the trail crosses an unreliable small brook;; sometimes water is also a short distance upstream in a swampy place called the Bear Traps. The trail then climbs to an intermediate peak at 1.2 mi. and descends to another col at 1.4 mi. Climbing again, Meader Ridge Trail emerges from timeline at 1.9 mi., passes over the summit of Eagle Crag (cairn; highest point is just off trail on the right), and then descends slightly to meet Baldface Circle Trail (left, east and ahead, southwest) and Eagle Link (right, west). In the reverse (north) direction, descending from the ledges of Eagle Crag, the trail drops off to the right (northeast) into the woods.

"Baldface Circle Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This yellow-blazed trail makes a loop over North and South Baldface from NH 113, starting at a parking area (restrooms; plowed in winter) on the east side of the road, 0.1 mi. north of AMC Rd., the driveway to AMC’s Cold River Camp, and 2.1 mi. south of the road to the Basin Recreation Area. Baldface Circle Trail is one of the most attractive trips in the White Mountains, with about 4 mi. of open and semi-open ledges providing long stretches of unobstructed views - but equally great exposure to storms. On the ledges, the trail, marked by cairns and yellow (and some blue) blazes (often faded), should be followed with care. This is a strenuous trip that should not be underestimated, with steep scrambling on the ledges of South Baldface.
        Leaving the west side of NH 113 about 60 yd. north of the parking area, Baldface Circle Trail runs at easy grades with fairly rocky footing to Circle Junction at 0.7 mi., where a side path leads right (north) 0.1 mi. to Emerald Pool, a popular swimming spot. From here, the trail is described in clockwise direction - up South Baldface, over to North Baldface, and down from Eagle Crag - because the steep ledges on South Baldface are easier to ascend than descend.
        From Circle Junction, the south branch of Baldface Circle Trail follows an old road, turns left (south), crosses a brook bed, and climbs past the jct. with Slippery Brook Trail on the left at 0.9 mi. [...].
        [...]. On that knob, at 3.2 mi., Baldface Knob Trail enters on the left (south). Baldface Circle Trail then ascends steadily west over open ledges to the summit of South Baldface at 3.7 mi.
        Bearing right (northwest) at the summit of South Baldface, the trail follows the broad ridge, descending into the shelter of mature conifers in a col at 4.0 mi. and then coming out on a semi-open knob at 4.2 mi. From here to NOrth Baldface, the trail runs mostly in the open, although several small cols could offer some shelter in a storm. From the main col on the ridge, Baldface Circle Trail climbs steeply to a shoulder, briefly eases, and at 4.9 mi. mounts the last steep and scrambly pitch to the summit of North Baldface, where the views are particularly impressive over the Wild River valley. The trail descends steeply northeast on ledges and then descends broad slabs with excellent views across to the Carter-Moriah Range. After minor ups and downs, the trail drops steeply, with several ledge scrambles, to a col. At 5.8 mi., after an easy ascent, Bicknell Ridge Trail leaves right, providing a scenic alternate route to NH 113.
        Baldface Circle Trail descends to another col and then ascends slightly. At 6.1 mi., it reaches a multiple jct. where Eagle Link leaves left (west) for the Wild River valley; Meader Ridge Trail continues straight ahead (northeast) for Eagle Crag and Mt. Meader; and Baldface Circle Trail turns sharply right (east), descending steeply and roughly over ledges for 0.2 mi., with two tricky scrambles. [...].

"Baldface Knob Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
CTA This trail in combination with Slippery Brook Trail provides an alternate route to South Baldface from NH 113 that avoids the steepest ledges on Baldface Circle Trail. It is marked with yellow blazes in the woods and marked with cairns above treeline. Baldface Knob Trail begins at Slippery Brook Trail, just north of the col between Eastman Mtn. and South Baldface, opposite the beginning of Eastman Mtn. Trail. Baldface Knob Trail rises gradually, passes a newly cut backcountry ski trail on the right (blue blazes), and then climbs steeply, emerging on open ledges below the flat, open summit called Baldface Knob, an excellent viewpoint. The trail descends into a scrubby sadly and then climbs easily along the open ridge to Baldface Circle Trail on the shoulder below the summit of South Baldface.

"Eastman Mountain Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
CTA This yellow-blazed trail ascends Eastman Mtn. from Slippery Brook Trail just north of the col between Eastman Mtn. and South Baldface, opposite the lower terminus of Baldface Knob Trail. Eastman Mtn. Trail runs through a beautiful birch forest, first descending slightly and then rising at a moderate grade onto the north ridge, where outlooks provide partial views of South Baldface and Sable Mtn. Eastman Mtn. Trail continues generally southeast to the summit, where open areas provide good although somewhat restricted views in most directions.

"Slippery Brook Trail" from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
CTA/WMNF This trail (partly blazed in yellow) runs from the south branch of Baldface Circle Trail, 0.9 mi. From NH 113, through the col between South Baldface and Eastman Mtn. to the north end of Slippery Brook Rd. (FR 17, called Town Hall Rd. at its south end). [...]. 
        Leaving south from Baldface Circle Trail, the north end of Slippery Brook Trail ascends a small ridge and then descends, crossing a branch of Chandler Brook and a tributary. After this tributary, the trail immediately turns left (yellow and blue blazes) where a woods road continues ahead as a ski trail. Slippery Brook Trail then turns right onto an older route on an old logging road (in reverse, turn left here and do not continue ahead on the obvious but abandoned logging road) and begins ascending generally southwest through woods, first easily then moderately, with rougher footing. The trail swings left up through a beautiful birch grove to reach the height-of-land just north of the col between South Baldface and Eastman Mtn. at 2.6 mi. Here, Baldface Knob Trail leaves right (north) for South Baldface, and Eastman Mtn. Trail leaves left (south). 
        [...].

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