North & South Kinsmans via The Basin (White Mountain National Forest)
Hike Type: Eyeglasses Loop
Distance: 12.76 miles
Elevation: 3,478 feet
Time: 7 hours, 57 minutes (6 hours, 59 minutes moving)
Hiking Challenges: New Hampshire 4000 Footers; Operation Alaska Benchmark Challenge
The Hike
After my long weekend of absolutely no sleep, followed by a Monday with only moderate sleep, I decided there was no better way to celebrate a partial recovery than to head back up to the Whites for another hike! Inspired by beautiful weather and particularly brutal Tuesday classes, I took a personal day and headed north. Thankfully, I did get a good night's sleep, and had over 9 hours under my belt when my 3:00am alarm went off! My morning started with a planned "up and out," quickly followed by realizing I didn't fully close my water bladder, which in turn spilled all over my pack. Oh well. I swapped my gear from my 32L pack to my 40L, which I had only used once before when I spent the night at the Carter Notch Hut with Sarah and Alec, and eventually made it on the road by 3:30am! I was headed for the Kinsmans as they are some of the closest high peaks to me, and I wanted to re-do them outside of winter anyway.
At Hooksett, I was blessed to get the first breakfast sandwich of the day! I did have to ask the cashier - I noticed it smelled heavily like breakfast and he ran to the back to grab one for me. Back on the road, I got startled somewhere in the Lakes Region when there was a black bear chilling on the side of the highway! I stopped at the Dunkin Donuts in Lincoln for a second breakfast and to grab a sandwich for the summit, and I realized that the sun does not rise at 6:00am anymore (it was 5:45am), but instead it now rises at 7:00am... oops! Thank goodness I had a headlamp in my trunk.
I made it to The Basin trailhead on I-93 south after turning around the Cannon Mountain exit just after 6:00am, and I was officially on my hike at 6:09am... in the dark, of course, because I apparently never learned how to check sunrise times! It was 48 degrees out with a light breeze and completely crystal-clear skies!
[6:09am - Start of hike on tourist path]
The adventure started on the paved tourist path to and past The Basin, which also featured some informational kiosks. I followed the arrows toward the Basin-Cascades Trail.
"Pemigewasset River"
from Trailside Kiosk
The stream you see here is the Pemigewasset, an Abenaki Indian word meaning swift. Flowing out of Profile Lake, at an elevation of 1900 feet, the river drains Franconia Notch and is fed by many small streams that fall from the steep mountain sides that lin ethis valley. Sixty miles to the south the water course becomes the Merrimack, a river that played an important role in the industrial development of New England. From its source to where it enters the Atlantic Ocean at Newburyport, Massachusetts, a distance of 185 miles, this river system drains some 5000 square miles.
Called the "Pemi" this cold clear, boulder-strewn stream is home to the Eastern Brook Trout, better known as the "Squaretail" and in the spring, when Mother Nature releases the mountains from the grip of winter, becomes a roaring torrent brawling its way toward the sea.
I will say, The Basin looked pretty cool with the stars shining above (and no people around!). The whole area was really neat in the darkness (and solitude!).
"The Basin"
from Trailside Kiosk
This large pothole in the Pemigewassete River, 30 feet in diameter and 15 feet deep, had its beginning some 25,000 years ago as the Ice Age came to a close. Water flowing from the melting glacier that filled Franconia Notch eroded the solid granite bedrock. During the thousands of years that followed sand and stones were whirled around by the force of that river causing a boring action that left the sidewalls smooth. The rock formation seen in the sream bed at the outlet has been known for generations as "The Old Man's Foot".
The great American naturalist, Henry David Thoreau, on his first trip to the White Mountains in September of 1839 stood here, as you do, and watched the water cascade into the granite bowl and whirlpool around its walls. He would later write in his journal, "this pothole is perhaps the most remarkable curiosity of its kind in New England."
Samuel Eastman in his 1858 White Mountain Guide called this spot "One of the beautiful haunts of Nature, a luxurious and delicious bath fit for the ablutions of a goddess."
Past The Basin, I followed signs for the Pemi Trail, which was now on a narrowing pathway.
"Mammals of Franconia Notch"
from Trailside Kiosk
In Franconia Notch, where steep mountainsides, clear rushing streams, dense forests and long, harsh winters make up the environment, a variety of wildlife is found. Some creatures, like the moose, only pass through at certin times of the year. Many, however, make the Notch thei ryear-round home.
White-tailed deer and black bear roam the valley floor, and are often seen on the ski trails of Cannon Mountain in the summer and fall. Other wild notch residents include the red fox, porcupine, raccoon, varying hare, red squirrel, weasel, chipmunk, woodchuck, and several species mice and other small mammals.
Mink follow the watercourses and beavers occasionally build dams on slow moving sections of the streams. The bobcat and the fisher prowl the valley and climb the ridges in search of food. Now and then, signs of the rare Canadian lynx are reported.
Like most wildlife, the animals of the Notch are elusive, and not easily seen. Chimpmunks, raccoons and red squirrels are exceptions to the rule, as most campers can attest to.
It is in the winter that the Notch visitor finds real evidence of Mother Nature's family. After a fresh snowfall, the "stories of the snow" reveal how the wild creatures of Franconia Notch, feed, hunt, seek shelter and often fight to survive.
The tourist path turned left at large boulder, while the Pemi continued on a footpath into the woods, following the dark, beautiful, slabby Pemigewasset River.
"Basin Woods"
from Trailside Kiosk
Here you see a forest environment typical of what is found throughout the lower elevations of Franconia Notch. Beech, yellow birch and maple are dominant, with some softwoods mixed in. Several species of smaller plants and wildflowers cover the forest floor.
This is not a virgin forest, for long ago the woodsman's axe was first heard. By 1900 most of the old growth forest in the Notch, as in most of New England, had been cut and hauled to the sawmill.
If you look around, however, you will see an occasional tree, like the big hemlock to your right and the giant yellow birch off the path to your left, that represent the type of forest growth early visitors to the Basin saw. These two trees, and others found throughout this valley, escaped the lumberman's axe and stand today as living memorials to the once-great forest of Franconia Notch.
The Pemi Trail came to the Baby Flume, which is truly a super-miniature version of the Flume Gorge (I'm talking ~20 feet long max) - I will have to revisit in the daytime some day. Continuing along, the Pemi Trail stayed close to the river, and consequently, close to the highway. I-93 provided plenty of noise, but I wasn't too bothered - I just pretended it was more water!
There was an easy water crossing later on after a muddy stretch, and the sky began to light up behind Franconia Notch around 6:20am. There was an even smaller crossing afterwards in a very confusing spot - I realized I just had to follow the stream and I was fine.
A few minutes later my puffy was off as the Pemi Trail narrowed near the confluence of the Pemigewasset River and Cascade Brook. The crossing was easy on this day, but care was needed as the morning rocks were still wet.
After crossing the Cascade Brook, there was a muddy spot and then the Pemi Trail came right up to the river bank where there were some early morning reflections (cue the music from "Mulan" playing in my head). The Pemi Trail then swung away from the river, gained a few feet of elevation (it had been steadily descending for most of this journey), and then descended again to an easy rock hop across the Whitehouse Brook.
Now in a hardwood forest, there was a neat season view toward the silhouette of Mt. Liberty's jagged summit through the trees. Eventually, I made it to the junction with the Cascade Brook Trail, surrounded by late-fall scenery. The trail sign was either damaged or forgotten about, and I took off my fleece at this junction.
[6:44am - Cascade Brook Trail]
The Cascade Brook, a part of the Appalachian Trail, continued at easy grades through beautiful, open woods. It was just bright enough out that I kept my headlamp off, and I didn't need it again for the rest of the day! The trail crossed the first of MANY drainages (most of which were trickles, but there were a few babbles, and an occasional dribble too).
After a few more trickles and dribbles, I made it to the crossing of the Whitehouse Brook (again), which was wide and rocky and not a problem at all. I did miss a spur path to a view here, you'd think I'd know to check the guidebook by now... I did catch a another tree view of Liberty, though!
The rest of this stretch was some pretty easy hiking with nice seasonal views across Franconia Notch to Franconia Ridge. My notes are as follows: ""another trickle, 93 super audible - just pretend its water, stream, tickle, babble, dribble, trickle." - exciting stuff! The temperature dramatically dropped as I approached Cascade Brook (which actually felt lovely as I was profusely sweating).
[7:21am - Cascade Brook/Basin-Cascades Trail jct.]
The Basin-Cascades Trail turns right just before this crossing, which was 5% tricky to get across. I did end up dipping my foot in the water, which was a bummer, but ended up being fine. I likely could have gotten across completely dry if I tried a bit harder, but alas... The view of the brook was beautiful, though!
After the crossing, the trail became wetter and rockier, and the forest began to mix in some conifer trees. I even found my first screaming squirrel at 7:30am! There were occasional tree views up toward the Kinsman Ridge, which was fully illuminated in a golden light. Eventually, the Cascade Brook Trail veered back toward the Cascade Brook, whose color was now like a dark tea. Soon after, I reached the junction with the Kinsman Pond Trail.
[7:38am - Cascade Brook/Kinsman Pond Trail jct.]
After this junction, the Cascade Brook Trail yet again got sttper and more rugged - traversing many boardwalks in varying conditions. It was in this segment where I realized I forgot to a) plug in the DVD player for my substitute and b) post the sub plans on Google Classroom. I had one bar of service on a "roaming" network, so I panic sent a text to my art teacher begging for her to help the poor sub - it eventually sent, but I didn't get a response until much later - I was STRESSED. On the plus side, stressing about this made this stretch of the hike go super quickly! I was upset that I spent time on my hike feeling stressed, especially in such a beautiful area.
[7:59am - Cascade Brook at Lonesome Lake Forest Protection Area]
The canopy above began to light up, the trail steepened again, and I entered the Forest Protection Area - almost there! The trail was alongside the Cascade Brook yet again, which was much smaller than before. I've commented on this before, specifically when I did the Tripyramids via Pine Bend Brook and down Sabbaday Brook, I really enjoy the trails that follow a river/brook/stream/etc. to its source - its fun to watch it change.
The sky began to open up and the trail began to get wetter as the Cascade Brook Trail neared Lonesome Lake. Soon, the trail flattened in a wet area that provided a commanding view of Cannon, and soon after I was officially at Lonesome Lake!
[8:07am - Cascade Brook/Fishin' Jimmy Trail jct.]
Turning left onto the infamous Fishin' Jimmy Trail, I began to cross the dam and boardwalks along the pond, when I saw something confusing out of the corner of my eye. At first, I thought it was some insane fish-out-of-water (literally), but then I realized it was some ferret-type animal! Apon many Google searches, I've decided it was a mink! It was running in, out, and around the dam, equally curious and cautious of me. It never stood still long enough for me to get a photo, tragically, but I enjoyed our little game of peek-a-boo!
The water of Lonesome Lake was perfect still, and the surrounding mountains created an absolutely breathtaking reflection on the water.
[8:11am - Fishin' Jimmy Trail at Lonesome Lake Dock]
I took my first break of the day at the dock below the Lonesome Lake Hut. The sun was shining and I was STEAMING. It felt so warm, but it was only 53 degrees. I enjoyed the view of the lake, the mountains, the reflection, and mostly, the sun! I had a nice snack and made sure to hydrate. I was still worrying about my sub plans, but there was truly nothing I could do at this point, but I also took a moment to reflect on how Lonesome Lake was one of the first places I visited in the whites, just after Artist Bluff and Mt. Pemi. I also comically remembered my grand plans for that day - Mts. Flume and Liberty via Flume Slide and Liberty Spring Trails. Yikes! I do remember reading about how Flume Slide Trail is dangerous, so I decided I wouldn't tackle that alone, so I pivoted to the Kinsmans. I made it up to Lonesome Lake, made it no more than 0.1 miles on Fishin' Jimmy, and turned around. In hindsight, I'm super proud of myself for not wrecking myself!
[8:21am - Fishin' Jimmy Trail]
With my lovely break behind me, it was back to hiking! My first class had officially begun, so whatever was happening was happening! The Fishin' Jimmy Trail continued behind the hut into some beautifully-smelling woods, and after a relatively nice start, it got rugged again.
[8:31am - Fishin' Jimmy Trail leaving Forest Protection Area]
The trail then left the Forest Protection Area and entered a very wet spot, but I did see a bear track! I travered the first steep PUD, dodged a crazy squirrel, and got some tree views up toward the Kinsman Ridge. As I continued to hike up, down, up, down, up, and down again, I began to understand why people don't particularly like this trail, but regardless of how physically demanding it was, it was beautiful!
Fishin' Jimmy Trail traversed a necessary boardwalk section as I lamented about how I truly haven't made much elevation progress since starting on this trail. The guidebook mentions the steep climbing beginning after crossing a mossy brook - I would soon learn that there were three mossy brooks! #1 had a steep descend leading to it, and it was very peaceful and beautiful. #2 was less significant, and #3 was the most impressive and the mosy mossy. NOW is when the climb started, being announced by a slippery slab and a wooden staircase.
I hiked past a couple piles of small, berry-filled poop while I ascended slab after slab. Always a little sketchy, never sketchy enough to give me the heebeejeebees. There were a good amount of drilled-in foot holes in addition to the wooden ladders and wooden steps. Eventually, the trail came to a single iron rung before briefly calming down.
From the iron rung, the trail gently rose and then dipped to a chilly col filled with MANY birds (they looked like robins, but I'm nowhere near confident) that had fast, flappy wings. If I looked up, I would see them darting from tree to tree - it was actually really cool. I had a short standing break here to observe (also the sun was shining in this sag and my sweat was yet again steaming off of me).
The steep climbing resumed out of this low on more stone and wooden steps with one sketchy spot where the wooden steps were either missing or wiggly. I eventually ran into the first people I would see all day - a couple who appeared to be leaving the Kinsman Pond Tentsite - just before reaching the FPA.
[9:28am - Kinsman Pond Campsite Forest Protection Area]
The Forest Protection Area unfortunately did not signal a break, but actually signaled the steepest slab climb yet! This was a slab that I was happy to be ascending instead of descending. I could see some tree views toward Mt. Lafayette from here as it climbed through beautiful, mossy forest. The slabs began to get more and more wet as the canopy began to open up. Eventually, I could see Cannon Mountain behind me, followed by a better view of Lafayette.
Finally, the trail began to mellow out in a wet boardwalk section. I found myself brainstorming marching band shows as my heart rate regulated, and came up with two ideas: ANTS! (but not the movie, just like, a bunch of ants) and some show about modes of transportation (trains, ferries, cars, etc.). There were a few more wooden ladders and eventually I arrived at Kinsman Junction!
[9:44am - Kinsman Junction & Kinsman Ridge Trail]
Kinsman Junction was in a beautiful, flat area near Kinsman Pond. I originally intended to take a break here, but then I realized that the view near the Mt. Kinsman Trail was only 0.2 miles away, so I continued on.
The Kinsman Ridge Trail continued the steep ascent over a couple semi-tricky scrambles, but through some of the most beautiful woods yet (which I know I say every time I hike). Just before the viewpoint there is an obstructed view of North Kinsman, which looked unfortunately far away from this point.
[9:52am - Kinsman Ridge Trail/Mt. Kinsman Trail jct.]
I was elated to see the view from the Kinsman Ridge Trail/Mt. Kinsman Trail junction in a new season - there was even a surprise USGS disc! I will say, this view was more beautiful in the winter snowpack, but I am not one to complain. It was fun to see how different it looked without a couple of feet of snow on the ground. I took a break here for some more food and liquids, and I even saw my third person of the day! We briefly chatted and both agreed that it's lovely to hike on a quiet weekday, but it is nice to a human every now and then!
\
[10:03am - Kinsman Ridge Trail]
After my break I continued on. I remembered this stretch of trail was tricky in the snow, and it turned out to be just as tricky in the fall! Lots of scrambling over wet ledges. It was fun to see this familiar trail in a new season, though. I did step in a puddle after one of the scrambles, but overall I made it up unscathed, just very out of breath!
[10:18am - Summit of North Kinsman]
I hit the summit of North Kinsman and immediately kept moving, especially since I had to come back soon after. I skipped the view spur, as the woman from before was having her break there. The Kinsman Ridge Trail shoots down off the summit area, providing a view of the mass of South Kinsman with Mt. Moosilauke looming behind.
The trail scrambles steeply down into more beautiful woods - I remembered this stretch as the "fire swamp" - when I hiked this in the winter snow would be falling from trees in every direction, and the sound was similar to the fire swamp of the best movie ever made, The Princess Bride. There were some nice views on the left to the Franconia Ridge and then the trail steeply descended again.
I was missing my visor in this stretch becuase the sun was shining right in my eyes (my visor did not surivive the great flood of 3:00am). A muddy stretch revealed some more bear prints - I didn't realize bears came up this high!
The col between the two Kinsmans was breezy and beautiful with a few patches of lingering snow, and then the climb began again! The climb to South Kinsman was two-tiered. An initial climb, a flat shoulder plateau, and then a final ascent. The should was absolutely beautiful! I was thinking of compiling all of these journal entries into a book, and I would definitely title this section "The Battle for Mt. Kinsman," and it would encompass my first trip to Lonesome Lake, followed by Bald Peak, then Bald Peak & the Kinsmans, and finally this hike.
[10:48am - South Kinsman, North Knob]
The ascend ends right as the trail exits the woods onto the North Knob of South Kinsman, marked by a cairn. There's a partial view from this open summit area towards the Franconia Ridge, but I continued onto the true summit on the south knob, not too far away.
The Kinsman Ridge Trail dips every so slightly to a sag and has a final, gentle rise to the true summit, marked my a large cairn that appears to have been shaped into a chair!
[10:54am - South Kinsman, South Knob/Main Peak]
The main peak has two summit bolts alongside the large cairn. There is a unique view of the Franconia Ridge rising above the North Knob. North Kinsman pokes out from the left with the north country on either side. Moosilauke is behild, and the sun was shining wonderfully. There was an amazing summery breeze that felt amazing with the sunshine. I had a slight headache at this point so I had some more food than I usually would, which was lovely. Enjoying more of the view, I noticed that the foliage down low was mostly all gone minus a few remaining golden patches. It was hazy in the distance, too. It was now 62 degrees out with wind at 5-10mph.
[11:07am - Kinsman Ridge Trail toward Kinsman Junction]
I was officially on the return trip now! I still had my two Reece's Big Cups to devour, which I was saving for either the pond or the car - time will tell! I soon crossed paths with human #4 of the day as I was descending, and I crossed paths with the woman I met at the Mt. Kinsman Trail junction soon after. I yet again enjoyed the beautiful shoulder, passed humans #5, #6, AND #7, all who were solo hikers. The col was still beautiful, and I truly blased back up to North Kinsman from there.
I passed human #8 on the way up, who had a VERY yappy dog. I did find their dog bowl, which the human had dropped, so I guess I'm kind of a hero or something... The steep scrambles got my heart rate pumping, but I was more than happy to be back up, with the main elevation of the hike officially behind me.
[11:35am - Overlook Ledge of North Kinsman]
Soon enough I was at the overlook ledge just below the summit of North Kinsman for a quick pit-stop. The Cannon Balls, Cannon, and the Franconia Ridge were in full display, and I believe Lonesome Lake was off in the distance. I think I called this Kinsman Pond after my winter hike, but Kinsman Pond should be much closer. That being said, may it is Kinsman Pond, as the shape doesn't match Lonesome Lake... Someday I'll figure it out!
[11:36am - Summit of North Kinsman]
I soon summited North Kinsman again and was officially on my CAREFUL descent. I found there to be seven dicey scrambles between here and the Mt. Kinsman Trail, and it was becoming windier. I also passed a big pile of wet berry-speckled bear poop that I did not see before - interesting! I also ran into a new insect - the Deer Ked, which is basically an evil tick with wings? I was NOT interested, and even more upset after reading about them!
[11:52am - Kinsman Ridge/Mt. Kinsman Trail jct.]
There were two more dicey, wet ledges after the Mt. Kinsman Trail junction, but soon enough I was back at Kinsman Junction in the beautiful woods!
[11:58am - Kinsman Junction & Kinsman Pond Trail]
From Kinsman Junction, I followed the Kinsman Pond Trail toward the Kinsman Pond Campsite and Shelter, which was a really neat area. The caretaker was out for the season, and there was nobody in sight. I followed a spur trail around the shelter, which was large and had two-levels, which led to the first view of Kinsman Pond.
It was nice to be on a new trail again! From this view, I continued along the Kinsman Pond Trail, past some more campsites, and right along the water's edge with a really cool view toward North Kinsman, which looked much closer than I originally thought (further solidifying my theory that I could see Lonesome Lake from the viewpoint on North Kinsman).
The trail became more rugged as it progressed along the pond, with an interesting-looking rock. As I got closer, it turned out to not be a rock at all, but a wing! I originally thought it was another plane crash, but apparently it was the wing of a glider that crashed in the area in the 1970s. I had an incredibly difficult time finding information about this, so of course I went to the Facebook group and asked for more info. I was directed to a YouTube video called "The Glider Accident that Never Happened" (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vwsbERCzw_k) - the moral of the story is that there's no info on it becuase it wasn't registered as an accident with the NTSB, I think.
After following the length of the pond, the Kinsman Pond Trail begins to descent in a very mossy, very wet area with extensive boardwalks, leaving the Forest Protection Area in this section. I was struggling with trying to make good time but also wanting to take a million photos of how beautiful this area was!
The trail then got... interesting! It more or less meandered in and around many different streambeds, with occasional herd paths criss-crossing around them. Thankfully, this area was very well-blazed, so it was a more a matter of connecting the dots. This stretch of trail was very hard and slow, as most foot placements were wet and mossy. I really did enjoy how remote it felt back here, though. I've read reports of people absolutely hating this trail, and its definitely not as manicured as Fishin' Jimmy, but it had a really unique character and I truly was not mad (except for the two times I splashed my foot in the water...).
The trail passed a mossy cascade area and continued the rough descent, only providing short moments of relief. I heard the first rumblings of I-93 right when my watch hit the 10 mile mark, and soon after the Kinsman Pond Trail came to the top of a waterfall with a view just a bit lower down. Here is where I saw my first person in a WHILE. He scared the life out of me! He wanted to chit chat some, but I needed to keep moving. He did lament about the wet trail, and I didn't have the heart to tell him it was only about to get worse! He did say "good for you" in a grandfatherly way when I told him I went up to South Kinsman and back, so that was nice.
The really difficult section ushers to a close at one final wet slab that has a rope to help get around. After, the trail gets leafy with good footing and cascades far off to the side. I was finally on the old logging road, and I was DELIGHTED! The Kinsman Pond Trail crossed a small brook, which actually felt nice becuase it was a "normal" water crossing, as opposed to the nonsense I had been doing all day.
Soon after was a crossing of the Cascade Brook, which was also nice and easy. I did take a moment to enjoy it, as it was so nice to be on familiar territory and not fighting for my life!
[1:17pm - Cascade Brook Trail]
Now back on a familiar trail (this is the nose part of the eyeglasses loop), I zoomed down the Cascade Brook Trail - which was extra pretty in this new light. I passed another person with their timid dog, crossed the Cascade Brook for a second to last time, and made it to my final new trail of the day - the Basin-Cascades Trail!
[1:29pm - Basin-Cascades Trail]
The Basin-Cascades Trail starts to descend, passing the footings of an old bridge, and then descends into a neat box canyon to the first of the waterfalls! The falls were called Rocky Glen Falls, and they were stunning. There was another couple enjoying the falls who were impressively perfumed.
Further down the trail, past more cascades, then comes to a Basin-like cascade into a large pool.
Up next, the trail steeply descended as the Cascade Brook meandered through two high rock walls. The Basin-Cascades Trail crosses the brook here, relatively easily, and continues to descend. I started to notice more and more people the further down I hiked, which was... fine. It was a beautiful fall day and I was less than a mile from I-93, so I guess it was inevitable!
The trail descends some more and a side path leads to the top of Kinsman Falls, which I got a better view of further down the trail.
Nearing the end now, the trail exist the White Mountain National Forest and comes to a wide, open slabby section FILLED with tourists who did not know what they were doing (including a comical amount of Crocs).
[2:00pm - The Basin tourist paths]
...and soon enough I was back at The Basin! People aside, I loved coming back this route. Sure, the upper Kinsman Pond Trail was brutal, but it was fun to explore, and the rest of the return was just delightful!
[2:03pm - End of hike]
After a quick scurry past the tourists at The Basin, I was back at my car! It was 71 degrees out now, I changed my clothes, inhaled my Reece's Big Cups, and starting my drive south to Marching Band. I was feeling pretty good after this hike, which confirms that I was just sleep deprived after the Wildcats. My drive back to Massachusetts was mostly uneventful, except for the fact that I apparently drove past Joe Biden and his motorcade on I-93 in Concord? I noticed nobody was on 93 North for a few miles, then I noticed every on-ramp was blocked, and then I saw a giant motorcade. Fun!
Step-By-Step
- Park at The Basin parking area on I-93 South.
- Start hike by following signs toward The Basin on tourist path.
- At The Basin, follow signs for blue-blazed Pemi Trail.
- At junction, turn sharply right onto white-blazed Cascade Brook Trail (AT).
- At terminus at Lonesome Lake, turn left onto white-blazed Fishin' Jimmy Trail (AT).
- At terminus in Kinsman Junction, continue onto white-blazed Kinsman Ridge Trail (AT).
- Summit North Kinsman and then South Kinsman, turn around.
- Back at Kinsman Junction, turn right onto blue-blazed Kinsman Pond Trail.
- At terminus, turn right onto Cascade Brook Trail (AT).
- At next jct., turn left onto blue-blazed Basin-Cascade Trail.
- At terminus, follow tourist path back to car.
“Pemi Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
NHDP This blue-blazed trail extends from a parking area near Profile Lake (winter parking available at the Cannon Mtn. Tramway lots) to the hikers parking area (sign: “Liberty Springs Trailhead”; plowed in winter) off US 3 just north of the Flume Visitor Center, providing a fairly easy and pleasant footpath that is an alternate route to the bike path along the central part of Franconia Notch. Because of the trail’s proximity to Franconia Notch Parkway, the sound of road traffic is prevalent along most of the route. The trail makes various loop hikes possible on the east side of the Cannon-Kinsman Range. Pemi Trail’s markings are not always obvious, and signs are not always present at intersections with roads and the bike path, so following the trail requires some care, particularly at points where it diverges from these other routes and at stream crossings. The crossings of Cascade Brook and Whitehouse Brook near the south end of the trail may be difficult in high water.
[...]. Turns right onto a paved path, with the Basin a short distance to the left across a bridge. In 70 yd., where the paved path bears left, Pemi Trail diverges right into the woods (sign). The trail descends fairly easily along the river, passing rapids and cascades and the “Baby Flume.”It crosses a rocky brook bed and crosses Cascade Brook (may be very difficult at high water) at a large ledge at 4.3 mi. (follow blazes carefully at this crossing). The trail soon begins to swing away from the river, crosses Whitehouse Brook (may be difficult at high water), and then ascends briefly to join Cascade Brook Trail at 4.7 mi. [...].
“Cascade Brook Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This relatively easy trail, a link in the AT and marked with white blazes, leads to Lonesome Lake from the bike path at the former Whitehouse Bridge site, just south of the bike path’s bridge over the Pemigewasset River (Liberty Spring Trail begins just north of the bridge). No Parking is available at the Whitehouse Bridge site, which is reached in 0.8 mi. from the hikers parking area off US 3 just north of the Flume Visitor Center via Whitehouse Trail (see p. 167) or in 0.7 mi. via the bike path from the Basin parking lot on the northbound side of Franconia Notch Parkway.
From the jct. with the bike path (signs for Cascade Brook Trail and Pemi Trail), Cascade Brook Trail - coinciding with Pemi Trail - crosses under both lanes of the parkway, turns right at the edge of the parkway clearing, and enters the woods. Just after crossing a small brook at 0.2 mi., Pemi Trail leaves on the right. Cascade Brook Trail climbs at a moderate grade and makes a wide crossing of Whitehouse Brook at 0.4 mi.; 20 yd. before the crossing, an unmarked side path descends 20 yd. right to a view of a fine cascade. The trail continues generally northwest at moderate and then easy grades with good footing, crossing numerous small brooks, and swings right at a jct. at 1.5 mi. at the edge of Cascade Brook, where Basin-Cascades Trail enters right.
Cascade Brook Trail immediately crosses Cascade Brook on rocks a short distance upstream from the site of a former footbridge that was washed away in 2011. This crossing is difficult and potentially dangerous in high water; as of 2021 the bridge has not been replaced. On the far side of the brook, the trail climbs easily along the northeast bank. At 2.0 mi., Kinsman Pond Trail diverges left and crosses the brook, and from this point, Cascade Brook Trail bears right and becomes rougher and rockier. It makes a short loop to the right on a relocation and continues at a moderate grade to the jct. with Fishin’ Jimmy Trail on the left, at the outlet of Lonesome Lake at 2.8 mi. From here, Lonesome Lake Hut is 120 yd. to the left. [...].
“Fishin’ Jimmy Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This trail, a link in the white-blazed AT, leads from Lonesome Lake to Kinsman Ridge Trail at Kinsman Junction, near Kinsman Pond. Parts of Fishin’ Jimmy Trail are steep and rough, with wooden steps on ledges. The trail received its peculiar name from a well-known local character called Fishin’ Jimmy - his real name was James Whitcher - who lived in the Franconia area and was featured in a story by Annie Trumbull Slosson, once a popular New England author.
Diverging from Cascade Brook Trail at the south end of Lonesome Lake, Fishin’ Jimmy Trail crosses the outlet brook on a bridge. In 75 yd. it passes the jct. on the right with Around-Lonesome Lake Trail near the beach at the southwest corner of the lake and climbs a wooden stairway, reaching Lonesome Lake Hut in 120 yd. from Cascade Brook Trail. Fishin’ Jimmy Trail runs around the lower end of a ridge coming down from the Middle Cannon Ball, making several ascents and descents and passing over a ledgy ridge crest at 0.6 mi. The trail then crosses several small brooks, with the last reliable water source in a small, mossy, ledgy brook at 1.1 mi., and soon begins to climb, at times steeply, with wooden steps and cut steps aiding passage on the steepest ledges but with occasional minor descents as well. At 1.7 mi., Fishin’ Jimmy Trail curls around a large boulder on the left and passes through a fairly flat area. At 1.9 mi., it reaches the top of the serious climbing and ascends gradually to Kinsman Junction and Kinsman Ridge Trail at 2.0 mi., 0.1 mi. north of Kinsman Pond Shelter on Kinsman Pond Trail.
“Kinsman Ridge Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
AMC This trail follows the crest of the main ridge from the height-of-land on NH 112 in Kinsman Notch north to the Cannon Mtn. Tramway parking lot, just off Franconia Notch Parkway at Exit 34B. [...]. For much of its length, Kinsman Ridge Trail is a more difficult route than one might infer from the map; footing is often rough, with many minor ups and downs. Hikers with heavy packs should allow considerable extra time for many parts of the trail. Little water exists on or near several long sections of the trail and none that a cautious hiker will drink without treatment. [...].
Kinsman Ridge Trail continues another 140 yd. to the bare south knob of South Kinsman’s summit, which is very exposed to weather, at 9.8 mi.; here, there is a large cairn.
From here, Kinsman Ridge Trail crosses a scrub-filled sag, passes 15 yd. to the west of the north knob of South Kinsman at 9.9 mi., and descends moderately to the col between South and North Kinsman at 10.4 mi. The trail climbs easily at first, then steadily, with some minor ledge scrambling, past two viewpoints to a side path (sign) that leads to the right at 10.8 mi.; this path runs 25 yd. to an outlook with a superb vista of the Franconia Range. From the north side of this broad ledge, the path descends via a steep, rough scramble another 30 yd. to a ledge that looks directly down on Kinsman Pond. The true summit of North Kinsman is a pointed boulder on the right (east) side of the main trail, 30 yd. north of the outlook spur. Kinsman Ridge Trail now descends steeply, with several ledge scrambles, to the jct. with Mt. Kinsman Trail on the left at 11.2 mi. It continues down, swinging right, to Kinsman Junction at 11.4 mi. Here, Fishin Jimmy Trail continues the AT ahead (east) to Lonesome Lake, and Kinsman Pond Trail bears right (south), leading 0.1 mi. to Kinsman Pond and Kinsman Pond Shelter.
“Kinsman Pond Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st. Ed (2022)
AMC This blue-blazed trail leads to Kinsman Pond and Kinsman Junction from Cascade Brook trail, 2.0 mi. from its beginning on the bike path at the Whitehouse Bridge site and 0.5 mi. above its jct. with Basin-Cascades Trail. The lower half of Kinsman Pond Trail has reasonably good footing, but the upper half is wet, steep, rocky, and very rough - and at times the trail shares the footway with small brooks, making rocks slippery; it may also be difficult to follow for short stretches.
Leaving Cascade Brook Trail, Kinsman Pond Trail immediately crosses to the southwest side of Cascade Brook (may be difficult in high water) and proceeds west on old logging roads. Soon the trail crosses a small brook and begins to rise moderately, following another brook past several small but attractive cascades and passing into dense boreal forest. At 1.3 mi., Kinsman Pond Trail crosses the brook and soon runs in its bed for 0.1 mi. From here on, the trail is very rough and eroded. At 1.6 mi., the grade becomes easy, and the trail crosses the outlet brook from Kinsman Pond at 1.9 mi., passes a water source left (sign), and reaches the foot of the pond at 2.1 mi. The trail climbs roughly up and down on the ledgy east shore of the pond, with the impressive bulk of North Kinsman rising from the opposite shore, and passes Kinsman Pond Shelter at 2.4 mi. and then several tent platforms. (Caution: Water in this area is unsafe to drink unless treated.) Kinsman Junction, where Kinsman Pond Trail meets Kinsman Ridge and Fishin’ Jimmy trails, is 0.1 mi. beyond the shelter.
“Basin-Cascades Trail” from White Mountain Guide, 31st Ed. (2022)
NHDP This blue-blazed trail is accessed from the Basin parking area on either side of Franconia Notch Parkway (restrooms; both parking areas plowed in winter) and ascends along the beautiful lower half of Cascade Brook to Cascade Brook Trail. The brook is scenic, and trail grades are mostly moderate, but the footing is often fairly rough; use caution where Basin-Cascades Trail passes along steep banks above the brook. The ledges along the brook are slippery when wet. The northbound parking area (east side) is 1.3 mi. south of Lafayette Place Campground. The start of the trail can be reached in about 0.2 mi. from either parking area.
[...]. From the trailhead at the jct. with Pemi Trail, Basin-Cascades Trail leads northwest, angles left toward Cascade Brook, and soon climbs moderately along the brook past cascades, small falls, and ledges with partial views of the Franconia Range across the notch, reached by numerous unmarked side paths. At 0.3 mi., the trail enters the WMNF (sign); from ledges on the brook just above this point there is a view of Mt. Liberty. At 0.4 mi., the trail passes a rough side path (sign) that leads down to a good view of Kinsman Falls, and 50 yd. farther up, as Basin-Cascades Trail comes out on the bank of a brook, a ledge on the left provides a viewpoint at the top of these falls. In another 100 yd., the trail crosses Cascade Brook (may be difficult in high water), traverses a rough section high on a steep bank, and then continues at an easier grade but with rooty footing along the brook past more cascades and pools. The trail passes Rocky Glen Falls in a gorge to the right at 0.9 mi.; a short, steep path leads up to the right to an overlook of the falls (use caution). Basin-Cascades Trail then swings sharply left up through a small box canyon, passes abutments from a former footbridge, and soon ends at Cascade Brook Trail on the south bank of the brook.
